PeteB

second chapter, beginning aft;

Hi Gaetan,
 
I live on the Gulf coast in Alabama, so humidity changes are very large. It really messes with the guitars. I use a humidifier and a dehumidifier to keep things on a relatively even keel (ha, ha). I don't try to climate control, just keep the changes from being too radical. Might help le vaisseau.
 
Love the work on the rablure.
 
John

Interesting Gaetan,
 
In your double bigger scale than I, that you have same affect and same results as I saw, it appears to be universal problem.
At my home in Upstate NY, we currently have 65% outside humidity and my workshop is around 50%.
i have now left an entire floor spacer out every 8 frames and all the others are only glued on one fore/aft side to reduce tensions- I have not seen any movement at all in keel twist, keel hogging, or anything to be honest - but I'm not at the lowest humidity of the season yet, but I now have winter control to keep humidity up around 40-45%.
 
Im going to install some deck clamps and the main wales to add some strength next to try and ensure it stays that way as per Druxeys and DVMs advice.
 
bon chance
 
ben

I agree, Gaetan. My current model hull (much smaller) with about 40 couples at 1:48 scale is stable as I assembled the framing and then fitted the deck clamps immediately. The model was bolted to a building board to keep the keel straight and flat until the wales were also added. Of course, with your 1:24 model the various forces are much larger.

Hi Druxey,
 
In Quebec, humidity is at his peak in autumn. In this case, assembly was made this summer up to know. Humidity is certainly a major factor but there is another  big player who comes to influence this assembly : Tension. All these tensions created by the assembly of the frames are not working in the same direction. It is only the beginning of the construction and the keel was already curving. If nothing is done, the problem could amplify. Not only the keel will curve like a S shape but the keel will also  twist from 1 side to the other. One way to observe would  be to pull a rope between the 2 extremities of the ship and to measure parts every side of this center line… it will be off center.  
 
The good news is that at this early stage of construction, it is possible to reduce greatly this problem. This multi layered sandwich has around 200 layers which must fit in a fix length. The thickness of  200 glue layers is not calculated anywhere but it will influence the assembly pressure. Frame thickness is fix thickness in the puzzle that can not touch. The only remaining variable is the spacer thickness. But it is only when the final action will be done that the keel will retract and  come back straight again  with  the Trussben effect; unglue 1 spacer side every 4 to 6 frames.
 
 

Trussben's Pegasus framing at 1:48 had a similar problem with changes in humidity distorting the framing because of the spacers. Expansion/contraction gaps seem to be the answer.

Keep repeating myself MAGNIFICENT

Excellent work, Gaetan, in straightening her out!  She's a lovely ship rounding into form.  I'm really enjoying your informative build.

Merci Messieurs for your compliments.
 
Rebalancing the frames
 
I did unglue few spacers more : about 1 side every  6 frames (represented by clamps on 1 picture).
Thanks to those who developped this method, it proves to be really effective.
The  keel was also reclamped  to help it to realign.
 
 1 other step has to be consider when assembling frames to help to reduce stress which can be then transmit to the keel. After the assembly job is completed, I think it is a good thing to check the keel assembly if there is any curve and if so it is a signal that some pressure must be release from the assembly by ungluing some spacers.
 
With the 74, a theoritical thickness of spacer between frames of 0,225’’, had to be reduce  of at least 0,01 to 0,215’’.  Still it was not enough, it had to reduce from the thickness of 1 spacer  divided between around 20 frames. So It would be around 0,205’’, this means almost 10% less. Is it too much???
 
The idea when assembling the frames is that the assembly must not to induce pressure to include spacers. If too much pressure is used, every thing will want to disassemble in 1000 parts nd this we do not want to see!

A pleasure to watch and learn from your log.  Somehow the Confederacy that I am working on doesn't seem so big anymore.

Very nicely faired there Gaetan, great work as usual!
 
cheers
 
pat

Thank you Deperdussin1910,
 
A lot of strengths are involved in this puzzle. It is difficult to well balanced everything. The keel was supposed to be straight but it was not. The first method to unglue some spacers between frames was to try to realign the keel with 2 by 4. It did unglue some and helped to realign. I will let everything stabilize and probably unglue some others. We also see how the planking fit on the keel. Limber holes has been traced lower than on drawings and cut.
  

 







 

Beautiful work.  It’s a real shame you can’t share with us how you accomplish it.

Good morning.

There are so many truly excellent models on MSW, right now.  While I am partial to the very excellent work of Marc Yeu, AKA Neko, this model that Amalio is making is simply the most astounding, IMO.  Everything from the uniqueness of the subject, to the fairness of the hull, to the completeness of the detailing, to the total care with which every single detail is consistently rendered presents a feast for the eyes!

Yes he is. I'm glad for him. It's good to see a small business do well.

I was just telling someone the other day who was building miniature display tables that he needed to look at Byrnes' tools.  I went to Jim's site to copy the link, and happened to see the sled on his website  - I plan on placing an order this week!  His tools are incredible and well worth it if you can swing the price.

Walt,
 
A sliding table, or sled has several uses on a table saw, you can find many videos and pictures on woodworking sites to see some of these uses, but for me the big ones are repeatable and square cuts, repeatable length cuts using the fence stop and it adds another layer of safety if you use it correctly.
 
Ben

I ordered mine a couple of days ago. I was just going to look into making one but I would much rather have Jim's. His quality is second to none.

Thought that I would post a picture of the Byrnes saw sled that I purchased from Jim and Donna as I haven’t seen it shown elsewhere on the site.
 
As with any of the Byrnes equipment, it is beautifully made of aluminum and the slot riders are made from plastic and a very nice fit into my saw.
 
You do have to remove your fence to use the sled, but that’s only a few seconds work and two screws to remove.
 
 
ben

Certainly looks the business like all Jims products. I had the Tilt table on my shopping list but not sure now as Id probably get more use out of the sled. Shame it doesn't incorporate a tilt into the sled but might have a look at that myself when I can afford the freight. Thanks for the Heads Up. Cheers Pete

Certainly looks the business like all Jims products. I had the Tilt table on my shopping list but not sure now as Id probably get more use out of the sled. Shame it doesn't incorporate a tilt into the sled but might have a look at that myself when I can afford the freight. Thanks for the Heads Up. Cheers Pete

Certainly looks the business like all Jims products. I had the Tilt table on my shopping list but not sure now as Id probably get more use out of the sled. Shame it doesn't incorporate a tilt into the sled but might have a look at that myself when I can afford the freight. Thanks for the Heads Up. Cheers Pete

Hello all,
I wrote this review for my club's monthly newsletter, and I thought it might be of interest to some of you.
BobF
 
A Generic East Coast, Late 19th Century Oyster Sharpie

Circa: 1880 — 1890

An Introduction to “Scratch Building”

 Monograph & Models by Bill Strachan

Plans by Al Saubermann

Distributed by: The Nautical Research Guild

www.thenrg.org/, info@thenauticalresearchguild.org

 

   This monograph and plans is the second such offering by the Nautical Research Guild.  You may recall that the first was the Continental Galley Washington, which, although billed as an intermediate level POF scratch build, is still a somewhat more complex vessel.  Bill Strachan and Al Saubermann have done a masterful job of providing the novice and intermediate modeler with a subject that definitely fills the gap between kit models and a first time scratch building effort.


   Sharpies are a type of hard-chined sailboat with a flat bottom, extremely shallow draft, and straight, flaring sides.  With centerboards and shallow balanced rudders, they were well suited to sailing in shallow tidal waters where oysters could be found. These craft are believed to have originated in the New Haven, Connecticut region of Long Island Sound. Their use would eventually spread up and down the Eastern seaboard of the United States.

   Strachan begins by offering some encouraging words for the first time scratch modeler, and how “peer pressure” should not influence one’s enjoyment or satisfaction with what they have accomplished.  He also provides his own philosophy when it comes to model ship building, which is very practical and reassuring for those not capable of going “full scratch” due to equipment or skill limitations.  In many instances, he offers alternate methods for fabricating parts that were made with power tools.

   The monograph is broken down into five phases.  Early on, the author utilizes abbreviations that identify various components used in the construction.  Examples would be “BB1” for building board, and “ST” for station template.  At first, you might find yourself referring back to these lists often, so making a separate reference sheet might be helpful.

    The first phase addresses constructing a jig that allows the bottom framing and planking to be built upside down,  which simulates actual practice.  One critical aspect of this segment is the fabrication of the 11 station templates with their various notches and bevels.  Paper templates supplied in the plans help ensure accurate results during this step.


   With the chine line actually rising above the waterline at the stem, the sharpie hull has a very distinctive shear  As a result, the keelson has a sloping shape that gently curves from its point of greatest draft amidships up to the bow and stern.


   Phase 2 addresses this with the fabrication of a second building jig, which utilizes the “press method” for shaping the strips that form the keelson.  Although composed of only four pieces of wood, Strachan goes into considerable detail concerning this piece.  Again, templates help ensure the correct shape at the bow and stern of this key assembly.


  Other components addressed in this phase include the chines and bottom planking.  Concerning this last item, the bottom planks can be a combination that varies from 4” to 8” in width, as long as the final result comes out even!  The author stresses that test fitting all the pieces before gluing is the key.

   Phase 3 continues with the forward bottom planking, but also addresses the stem assembly, mast step block, mast logs, rudder related items, removable flooring, center board and trunk, lower side sheer plank, and vertical planked stern.  This last item is a unique feature on these craft.  The author provides two options, one being more difficult than the other.  Nevertheless, both produce acceptable results if one follows the author’s detailed instructions. Can you imagine trying to spile planks that will conform to that transom?


   Speaking of spiled planks, the sharpie had three of them on each side of the hull.  Again, the author provides templates for each one, which saves a lot of time and headaches.  It is also interesting to note that the three planks are glued to each other along their edges and at the stem, before the frames are installed.  Lots of clamps, and one of the station templates, are used to help with proper alignment.


   The modeler is offered two choices when constructing the transom flooring.  One reflects a construction method used in North Carolina, while the alternate layout, shown in the photo below, portrays a New Haven sharpie.  It’s quite evident throughout this monograph that the author believes in giving the modeler options.


   Although considered a novice/intermediate project, the sharpie does present one challenge.  Many of the various scantlings possess subtle bevels and angles.  The author makes extensive use of disk and oscillating sanders when dealing with these pieces.  He tries to minimize this challenge by providing the actual angles that the sander table should be set at.

   With the hull structure essentially complete, Phase 4 gets into a lot of the interior scantlings and detail work  This includes mast partners, deck beams, deck planking, false wale, and rub and toe rales with scuppers.  In addition to all items relating to the rudder, painting and weathering are also addressed.  This last item is one of this writer’s favorite segments.  The author uses a “layer upon layer” technique that involves lots of Q-tips,  one of three different black India solutions, paint washes, chalks, pastels, sharpie markers, and color pencils.  In most cases, he recommends that they be applied to components as they are being made.  Practicing on mock-ups first is highly recommended.


   The final phase, number 5, addresses masting, rigging, and saw horses as a way of mounting your model.  The author provides two masting and rigging options, a gaff rig and a simple sprit rig.  This last phase concentrates on the gaff rig for the most part, since it is the more complex style.  The authors technique for fabricating shackles and stropping blocks with galvanized 28-gauge wire is especially noteworthy.


   There are other handy tips offered in this monograph.  Examples are an easily made container for soaking wood strips, miniature clamps made from Acco paper clips, and plank joints “caulked” with a brown Sharpie pen.

   One nice touch concerning this 277-page monograph is the fact that you can download the instructions off the NRG website at no cost.  This will allow you to review Strachan’s work, which is richly illustrated with 441 color photographs and detailed diagrams.  References and other sources are also clearly footnoted for the modeler, and the documentation includes a full bibliography.

   If the Sharpie interests you, a set of plans can be ordered from the home office.  The cost is $65.00 plus S&H for members, and $80.00 plus S&H for nonmembers.   You will receive 11 sheets.  Three of these drawings are used as templates, and include a full-size building board pattern.

   This monograph provides the modeler with a wide range of options for detailing, paint schemes, sailing rigs, and weathering.  No matter what your current skill level may be, this little model offers an alternate choice, or a nice change of pace from more challenging endeavors.

 

Thanks for the likes and the comments everyone.
 
Big day today... the rings came in and so did the guns from Chuck.  I ordered 24 of the appropriate size for the 8 pdrs and also ordered the 6 pdrs.   Yes, they're for an English ship but given the actual size and normal viewing length, I think they'll work perfectly.  Here's a couple of pics.   I will have to make quions now that I know the proper dimensions for them.  This should be a lot of fun.  Time go dig out the Birchwood-Casey and start blackening everything.  
 
I do plan on blackening and fitting the guns (temporarily) to the carriages but not actually installing the barrels until the upper deck and the channels and iron work for the shrouds are in place.  I'll put the carriages in place and lock them down with glue and a "safety" post through the deck.  Having a cannon and/or carriage come loos after the deck above it is in place is not fun in my book.  Been there, done that, built my vocabulary in an ungentlemanly way.