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Thought that I would post a picture of the Byrnes saw sled that I purchased from Jim and Donna as I haven’t seen it shown elsewhere on the site.

 

As with any of the Byrnes equipment, it is beautifully made of aluminum and the slot riders are made from plastic and a very nice fit into my saw.

 

You do have to remove your fence to use the sled, but that’s only a few seconds work and two screws to remove.

 

 

ben

AF499E57-C560-4A13-ADFD-71369BBC3367.jpeg

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Guys, I am a newcomer to the use of table saws, though I do have the Byrnes saw.  How is the saw sled used? What does it add to the basic saw?  I have seen many references to using a table saw to cut mortices, tenons, and even rabbets. Is there a reference to or tutorial of these uses?

                            Walt Haynes

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Walt,

 

A sliding table, or sled has several uses on a table saw, you can find many videos and pictures on woodworking sites to see some of these uses, but for me the big ones are repeatable and square cuts, repeatable length cuts using the fence stop and it adds another layer of safety if you use it correctly.

 

Ben

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I was just telling someone the other day who was building miniature display tables that he needed to look at Byrnes' tools.  I went to Jim's site to copy the link, and happened to see the sled on his website  - I plan on placing an order this week!  His tools are incredible and well worth it if you can swing the price.

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Would someone who has this already be kind enough to tell me the thickness of the base plate? I have the 17" version of the saw so the sliding table would fit without having to remove the fence. But the question is whether any long stock laid on the table would clear the fence, which is about 9/64" high (without the extended fence).

 

Thanks -

John

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Certainly looks the business like all Jims products. I had the Tilt table on my shopping list but not sure now as Id probably get more use out of the sled. Shame it doesn't incorporate a tilt into the sled but might have a look at that myself when I can afford the freight. Thanks for the Heads Up. Cheers Pete

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  • 3 weeks later...

I got my sliding table last week. The little plastic-topped screws for the depth stop really annoyed me - too hard to grab and start in the holes. So I went to the hardware store and got some brass 6-32 machine screws and knurled brass nuts. I glued the nuts to the screws with a bit of medium CA. I find these way easier to use.

 

Cheers -

John

nuts.jpg

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I thought I'd make one other suggestion that, in retrospect, makes me feel dumb that I didn't think of it immediately. You don't always need that depth stop part. I mean the little hangy-down part on the right. I had gotten into the habit of removing it and laying the piece of metal and the screw down on the bench. Doubtless, everyone elses' workbenches are neat and tidy at all times, but mine quickly becomes a disaster zone while I'm working. So small parts like that can often get moved out of sight or separated from each other by the gremlins who live in my shop. The simple and obvious solution is to simply turn the part around and hang it down on the back side of the fence. Like I say, I feel dumb that it didn't occur to me to do that until yesterday, but maybe it's something that hasn't occurred to someone else yet either. (Not saying you're dumb! :) )

 

Cheers -

John

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