JeffT

Welcome to Model Ship World Dean 

Hi Dean,
Welcome to MSW.  Once you decide on a model, I hope you'll start a build log as it's a great way to get help and make friends.
 
I think a lot of us have built the balsa and silkspan aircraft and crashed them.  Like others, I've found wooden ships less likely to crash.

Welcome Dean  have fun with whatever ship you decide to build, you'll be sure to find help and advice here at MSW👍😁

Welcome to the forum! Have you decided on what ship you’re planning to build?

Thanks for the welcome! 
What a great friendly forum.
I did have the odd mishap (with the models thankfully!) Only had one that had to be collected in a bin bag.
I enjoyed building the model aircraft more than flying them. I am now itching for a new challenge and having visited the Historic Ship Dockard in Portsmouth this year and being blown away by the experience model ship building is now my new challenge!
 
 

Welcome to the forum Dean;
 
My first ever project was a 'Keil-Kraft' balsa glider. Disappeared long ago. I once started on a 6ft B-17 flying fortress, but ran out of steam (ships took over)
 
Whatever you choose to build, I wish you all the best. 
 
Mark P

Welcome, Dean.  I had similar experiences to Chris Coyle (see above) which I why I started building ship models. Those balsa planes kept crashing! Hopefully yours didn't - the model ones, I mean!

Welcome, Dean! (That's my middle name, BTW.)
 
I never did RC planes, but I did build a few balsa-and-tissue examples once upon a time. The early ones all came to some sad end, e.g. crashing into a mail box. Eventually I started building them sans rubber band motors to eliminate the temptation to take them outside and wreck them, er, I mean fly them.
 
Cheers!

Welcome to MSW, Dean.
 
We have engineering in common, but I have spent the last decade or so with plastic kits before coming back to timber.
 
Enjoy your journey with us, and if you ever need help, this is the best place for it!
 
Jim

Welcome to MSW, it is a great place.

Hi, I'm a new ship builder based in the UK.
I have read through so so much on this forum, so many helpful articles, reviews and build threads!
My background is 12 years as an aircraft engineer followed by 10 years as a maintenance engineer in a factory.
Hobby wise I used to build and fly r/c planes, building from kits and plans making my own modifications as I saw fit, hopefully this will be of some assistance in my ship build.
Thanks Dean 

A very nice subject for 1:48. I'll be watching this one progress 😎

There is a little difference between the original design drawing in 1775 and the completed drawing in 1778

I was shocked when I saw this set of drawings for the first time. He was so gorgeous and had so many beautiful paintings. I watched for a long time and slowly appreciated them, trying to understand the craftsman's state from my current perspective
The ribs of British wooden sailboat are very complex. When making HMS enterprise, the ribs are simplified. There are two advantages: 1. The difficulty of making is reduced, the production is convenient, 2. The cost is reduced
But for HMS fly, I want to show its original structure as much as I can, which is a big challenge for me, but I like to challenge


Here's the scale, which can be adjusted to any scale

wow. nice.

wow. nice.

wow. nice.

Hi all,
 
Early next year, Amati will release their new 1:200 Bismarck kit. This one will be a beast! 
 
Here's some info on this forthcoming kit:
 
Length 127 cm Height 29 cm Width 18 cm Hull: plank on frame (also ready to accommodate RC Control) Laser etched wooden decks Anton Bruno Cesar and Dora turrets made in plywood and covered with photoetched brass. Metal gun barrels. Options for three style of camouflage, dependent on career stage. Wooden base for etched plate Decals for Sound Locator System.  
The Bismarck will be unveiled at the Nuremberg Toy Fair between 29th January - 2nd February 2020, by Krick, Amati's German distributor.
 
Here's a few photos. I'll add more over the next weeks  
 

Hello Tom. Welcome to MSW!

Welcome to MSW 

Welcome to MSW Tom....
 
Yes indeed this is true...I am very excited to say.  😁
 
Over the last few weeks I have worked with Tom at CAF to introduce him to Didier Berti of Ancre.  It was my hope that if these two could discuss the issues at hand that some sort of agreement could be reached.   It has been and I am thrilled to announce that they have formed an agreement which takes both past sales of Ancre related kits and future sales into consideration.   I would also like to thank Kerry Jang who was instrumental in this process.   
 

With this licensing agreement between Ancre almost finalized, I can announce officially the lifting of the ban we placed on all CAF kits.  I also welcome Tom and CAF models to MSW where I expect he will become a cherished member and hopefully sponsor.   So if you intend on building any CAF kit please do start a build log and ask Tom for assistance.   
 
Here is a link to the CAF website....https://www.cafmodel.com/
 
This should make it perfectly clear that our main focus at MSW and the NRG was indeed the act of pirating kits and the theft of intellectual property.  It was not a vendetta against any individual or country.  

We have removed all reference to CAF being banned on MSW....Everyone should enjoy building CAF kits and I insist that you start a build log when you get started!!!
 
Everyone....Please join me in welcoming Tom from CAF models!!!!
 
Chuck
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hello all,  I'm Tom from Shanghai, China. My English is not very good. I use Google translation software to communicate   I am very grateful to MSW, the communication platform, for letting me see a lot of excellent works, for letting me see a lot of production experience, and for letting me learn and progress from it   Now I have a small studio cafmodel. We mainly develop the kit of the model,   Previously, La salamander, Le Requn, La Belle, La renommee, La jacinthe, HMS enterprise, HMS Bellona have been developed   At the beginning, I didn't pay attention to the copyright, but now I gradually understand that my product has the problem of infringement, and I think I should make changes   I make a statement   CAF models has recently been contacted by Chuck Passaro of the Nautical Research Guild. I am very thankful for his guidance. Chuck has worked with me to address my use of Ancre plans for my kits that all of you are familiar with. He has made it possible for me to meet Mr.Berti of Ancre so we can discuss rectifying the situation. He introduced me to Mr Berti. I apologize to Ancre for copying their plans without permission or compensation and through this introduction I have now come to an agreement with Ancre which now enables me to sell my kits with a legitimate relationship between us. I appreciate the time and professional relationship I now have with Chuck, Didier Berti and the NR G. Chuck has informed me that CAF models and my kits will now be welcomed on Model Ship World and I am very grateful for this. Thank you   I hope to get the understanding of Ancre publishing house that I will stop selling all infringing products before obtaining production authorization   Tom

Thanks everyone for the comments and the "Likes".
 
Rich, thanks for the link to the Jax blackening agent.  I ordered the 4 ounce jar and received it very quickly.  This should last me a long time.
 
I initially painted the cap rail and did not like the color that I chose.  I stripped the paint off by scraping and sanding and will repaint it later with a different color of red.  I decided to move on to Chapter 4 and install the floor boards and the bow and stern platforms.  I felt this would be better for me as there would be no paint on the cap rails for me to mess up.  I found it easier to make a pattern out of card stock as recommended in the instructions for the platforms and then transfer it to the laser cut platforms.  This helped to locate the notches for the frames.  Here is a picture of the paper patterns that I made:
 

I used a sharp blade and small files to make the cuts on the platforms.  I also had to bevel the bottom of the platforms to sit properly on the frames.  This was a slow process for me, but I was satisfied with the fit.  Here is a picture of the bow and stern platforms with the simulated nails installed and two coats of wipe-on-poly applied:
 

And here is a picture of the platforms dry fitted to the inside of the hull:
 

 
I will be installing the risers next.  I am really enjoying this build.

A small update.....the starboard side is almost complete (for chapter three anyway).  I just want to add that fancy rail on the top of the qgallery.  But today I finished the friezes and molding on this side.   
 

 
Remember, the middle molding goes on first.  It is a scraped 3/32" wide molding.  It establishes the proper sheer run.  Then you can add the friezes above and below that molding strip.   You should do this without the qgallery roof glued into position.  It is done this way so the roof can cover the friezes (be glued on top of it) and you will get a nice clean edge.   This way you want have to cut the frieze around the roof and shingles.
 

The lower molding is also scraped in the traditional way.  It is also 3/32" wide.  It has a different profile than the middle molding.  Check out the images of the contemporary model in the gallery before you make your scraper for the molding.  You can cut the short lengths that need to be added between each port.  In addition,  you will need to cut the frieze around each port.  I found this easier to do after the frieze was glued on.  Use a very very sharp xacto blade.  Go slow!!!  Then finally, locate the fixed blocks which are now covered by your frieze.  To do this, poke a drill bit through the sheave holes from the inboard side to puncture the frieze.  Then carefully cut the frieze away to reveal the sheave slots.  I ran a sharp pencil in the sheave slot to clean it up and make it neat.  It also darkens the sheave.
 
Then glue the top frieze into position.  Try and locate the seams between each segment over a busy part of the design.  This will help hide it.  You would be very hard pressed to find it on my model.  The frieze will not go all the way to the sheer.  It will be about 1/16 - 3/64" below the shear.  This is to accommodate the top run of fancy molding.  
 
This molding is not scraped.  It is laser etched and cut for you from boxwood.  I did this so I could also match it to the scrolls (volutes) along the waist.  I think it looks pretty good and mixing traditional scraped molding with a laser cut one is a good approach.   Much better than using a laser cut molding for every occurrence.
 

Be very careful with the scrolls when you sand them....they are fragile at only 1/32" thick.  The first thing you should do is lightly sand the top surface with some 320 grit sandpaper.   Then remove them from the sheet.   Use a light touch and then remove the laser char from the edges.  As you do so, remember to support the scroll between two fingers so it doesnt break along the grain.  Again use a light touch.  Dont try and clean the char in the inner edges of the swirled scroll.   It will break.  To finish them up, round off the top and bottom edges.  The same can be done with the lengths of laser cut molding so they match the scrolls and can be glued together so you cant see the seams between them.
 

 
Dont try and scrape the char from the laser etched grooves.  It just wont work and if you just leave it as is t will look great.  This is what I did with mine.
 

When its all done...this is how it should look at the bow.  Take note of where the molding ends.  Once I finish the other side, I will paint the bollard timbers black.  You could do this ahead of time as well.  Probably easier that way.  Everything above the bottom molding will be painted black.  You cant really tell the difference between the laser cut and etched molding and the scraped molding in that close up!!  Its just a little darker where the char sits in the grooves.

Lastly...at the stern, notice on the contemporary model that the top molding does not extend to the transom. The blue of the frieze extends right up to the shear.  The black cap which we will add later will sit on top of the shear.   The molding ends at the rail on the qgallery roof.  Which I will add next.
 
 

 
ANY questions or comments???  I dont think I forgot to mention anything.....remember....a light touch when sanding those scrolls....really.
 
And I still havent decided on the roof color for the quarter galleries....but I have to decide so I can add that rail.  By the way, I havent even started on the port side yet.  So lots to do before I start working on the stern.

Thank you verymuch for your kind words Mr.Chris Watton,and thank you very one!
 
First of all,many thanks to Mr.Passaro and MSW,thank you for your support and help.
 
The carving sets are available and ready for sale now.I will send PM to every member who participates in the reservation purchase.For technical reasons, my sponsor link will have to wait a few more days, but this does not affect your order.This is a complete set. On the left is the packaged look. On the right is all the carvings and the Gifts of polishing brushes & latex finger covers.

Jack