DCooper

Before moving on I thought it prudent to see if the framing really allowed a better view of the gun deck - after all, if it didn't what's the point? So I hooked up the temporary light source, turned off the lights and result was very positive. The photos show with the natural light in pic 1 the eye is sort of drawn to the frame itself. But with the natural light off and the lanterns only the eye is drawn to the gun deck. I threw in a blurry pic of the captains quarters which looked really cool - the photo did not do it justice though.
 
Dave
 

I dry fit the Spar Deck today after trimming the partially complete deck beams to make them fit to the bulwarks. The camboose is about as snug as it can be and in fact, the frames are holding it down and the camboose top is giving the deck some needed camber. It will probably have to be lowered or I will have to correct the beams at this area. The Gun Deck can now be completed - manger, anchor cable with messenger to the capstan and canon balls. I am still not sure of what colors to put on the beams. They are a bit glaring right now. I would like to match the color of the inner bulwarks for the beams bottom and sides but a neutral grey or contrasting brown color for the tops would look nice - like exposed aged wood. That is still in thought.
 

This is how I set up my mill. I screwed down the wood box and it holds the dividing head (which is excellent for dowels - but does not replace a lathe for longer work) and the various small tools and cutters.
 

It is fantastic to see that you are continuing this wonderful build. 
 
Also nice to see that you have got your new mill, I'm sure you will find much joy and many uses for it.  I hope you share them as I for one would love to see more information about machining with these smaller mills.  Very envious as I'd love to have one to mess about with.
 
I am looking forward to see what you have in store for us next.
 
 
Dan

I did the surgery today. Here are the before and after pics dry fit to the ship. Once glued down I can dry brush the exposed plastic defects and should have a fair result. I will dry fit the main mast to be sure the rake did not change after the slight aft section shortening. Since I am going to add mast partners on all 3 masts it will not be a problem to widen the molded mast hole.
 


 
I knocked off 2 gun port doors while doing this today. They are VERY touchy.
 
Dave

It has been too long. When I last left this build I was wrestling with the incorrect seam match for the aft and mid sections of the Spar Deck. Starboard is 0.85mm longer than the port side. Complicating this is the capstan which is already in place. Now, I could have chopped off the capstan and filed gently but accuracy would have been lost and I would have to repair or replace the capstan.
 
I have been watching you folks on MSW and the tools used. One that shows up consistently is the MF70 mill. Although it seems I have been doing nothing on my build (actually I guess I haven't done anything on it ) I have actually been watching Ebay for an MF70 at a good price. 2 weeks ago I found one and bought it. I set it up tonight and here is my solution to the mismatched seam using the cylinder cutter. This pic shows a spare Spar aft section of deck. After carefully measuring the before cut and after cut seam - it seems I have my solution: 0.85mm taken off the starboard side and none on the port side. I will cut the build spar deck piece tomorrow and then I can glue that section and finally move forward.
 
Dave
 

With the holidays in the rear view mirror, I've been able to return to the workbench.  I've been working on prepping as much of the rigging as possible off the model.  Lashing the upper deadeyes to the shrouds was the last requirement before I permanently step the mast.
 
I decided to use the "deadeye claw" method for this model.  This was my first experience with this technique, and, so far, it has worked pretty well.  Here is a closeup of one of the assemblies.
 

 
I was able to use a simple fixture for making the claws, which produced pretty consistent results, so I made four of them.
 
If you look at the next photo, you'll see that the right shroud is "tacked" on to the deadeye at about the 4 o'clock position.  I use white glue for this.  That way, I can correct it if there is a problem.  You may be wondering what the black thread is that's attached to the upper deadeyes.  Well, with the lower deadeye hooked to the chain plate, the whole assembly was very difficult to work with.  It kept flopping around.  The thread is temporarily tied to the upper part of the mast, and provides stability.  Once the initial glue application is dry, I add a little more glue around the bottom, up to about the 8 or 9 o'clock position.  (See the left deadeye.)  The deadeye can now be handled without the shroud separating from the deadeye.
 

 
 Here are the finished results.  The deadeyes look pretty even, but I won't know for sure until they are fastened with the lanyards.
 

 
I'm sure that for the vast majority of you, this post isn't anything earth shaking.  But, maybe, someone will find it useful.
 
BobF
 
 

Back to ship building after grandpa duties and some fence building at my daughter's home.
 
I finished up all three of the masts and adding the sheaves in all locations. I added a couple of pictures of the cleats on the crosstrees that were added over sized and then cut and shaped to the final sizes. I also shaped and stained the spanker mast.
 

 

 

 

 
Next will be the spanker boom and gaff; then the fighting top deadeyes and other fittings to be located on the masts.

Here are some photos of the finished base and plinth.  I also applied the bow pulley and the anchor davit plate that sits in the notch on top of the transom.  Rigging is next!
 

 

 

 

Captain Steve, thank you for your kind words! Well I pondered the best approach to fabricating the canopy frames for the hatchways and started first with what I considered the more challenging parts, the stanchions.
 
I decided to turn them using 1/16" square brass bar on my Sherline lathe and use my combination slide to back cut with a second bit. This allowed one setup without having to change tool holders. I love this feature of the Sherline. I colored one side of the stock with a blue marker to mark the key locations from the locating pin shoulder up 7/16" to the top.
 
First I cut the .020" locating pin then advanced the stock in the chuck. In turning small stock like this one must cut close as possible to the chuck and use cutting fluid. Next I cut the shank to the bottom of the first square down to the angled flange above the locating pin forming a shoulder.
Next I used the back cutter to cut between the squares and also the top circular shape. The part was cut off and indexed back in the chuck to first drill the top with a 1/32" hole to receive the bent frames. Once the hole was drilled the rounded shape was formed carefully using a needle file.
 
Once the first one was cut and drilled with the 1/32" location holes for the rails it was used as a "master" to mark the rest for cutting as close as possible of course using magnification to keep on track.
 
I cut the first three and drilled for the three types that needed to be drilled differently. The end requires 10 parts drilled one side, the center requires 15 parts drilled completely through for the rail, the corners require 12 parts drilled two adjacent sides to receive the rails.
 
Here are a sequence of pictures that show where I am so far.
 

 
Here are the results of the back cutting tool.

 

 

 

 
Now that I have a system down back to cutting and drilling the 34 more to turn. This may take awhile and I will think of other things to do when my eyes need a break form cutting this small.

Finished up the chainplates and then added about 180 gun breech line bolts to the exterior of the hull. Now to touch up some paint details; then glue the deck furniture in place and add some of the balance of the hull details. Not sure if I should paint the deadeyes black or not; they look nice as a bright finish.
Here are a couple of images of the finished chainplates and breech line bolts.
 

 

 
Now back at it. 

Back at it after helping wife and getting my NRG presentation on a CD mailed off. I checked the chain plate photo-etched parts and again the holes did not match the nails supplied. I darkened all the part sheets with Black Patina both sides and once set started to very carefully enlarge the holes with a small ream to fit the nails. Would have been great if the kit builder had checked these first.
 
I also stropped  all the deadeyes and twisted the number of eyebolts needed. All was slow tedious fussy work. The eyebolts were twisted using a #76 (.020") drill bit shank and 26 gauge black beading wire. Also keep the two hole in the deadeye up as best as possible given the hole locations on them.
 
Working off the plans I transferred the bottom backing link hole locations and drilled them with a .020" drill bit to receive the nails. Added the backing link to the hole and used a brass rod to align the link to drill the top hole location. Once drilled the chain plate was added, marked, cut and bent to fit it's location against the eyebolt or deadeye. Keep in mind that the top hole of the backing link needs a eyebolt to hold a ring instead of a nail. Again using the plans for the location of these rings.Once one section was competed the painted wood strip cap was added.
 
Here is a sequence of photos showing the process I am using.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Now to continue on with adding the chainplates.
 

Thank you for your kind compliments! Once all the carronades were assembled and reviewed both plans and real photos I realized that I needed to be able to attach the carronades before rigging them with tackle and breech lines. The plan drawings must be for some other ship because the sizes do not match each other in relation to the attaching brackets and the planksheer. This is where assembly drawings would have shown the issue. So I devised my own brackets that required drilling an index hole into the top of the waterway that will suggest an attaching bracket which is visible both looking down as well as through the gun ports.
 

 
Here is a closeup front view.
 

 

 
Once the brackets were in place the breech lines could be added. Here I am using .035" light brown left over from my Niagara build. I also realized that the tackle blocks provided in the kit were way too large. I then ordered both single and double 3/32" blocks and .008" light brown line to fit the blocks. These will be much closer to scale once rigged. These were ordered from Syren on Thursday afternoon and arrived today (Monday) Chuck is to be complimented on his customer service focus and quick turnaround!  I will now be continuing on rigging the carronades without missing a beat.
 

 
Here is a suggestion to make a drill bit depth gauge which enables drilling holes for eyebolts in the ceiling walls without drilling through the outer wall accidentally. Also in this case the 1/32" drill bit is glued into a 1/16" brass tube long enough to reach across the width of the deck.
 

 

 
Now back to more breech lines and then block and tackle which I will be at for awhile.

Jonathan, my remark was more of a comment rather than a complaint since the Niagara kit has cast cleats the same size as those needed for these applications. The next time I carve cleats I will post some pictures of the process.  
 
I have been working with the kids on their house renovation and drywall patching the existing living room ceiling and walls after walls were removed. Great exercise! I have some time to do some building and added the gunport carved decorations to the top of all the gunports as well as the lower covers. I then did a test for the top covers and decided that these will wait until the spar deck is installed so as not to damage them. I am trying to button up all the steps needed before adding the spar deck. The carved decorations needed the drilled holes for the lines which would cause wood bits on the gun deck which are easily cleaned without the spar deck in place.
 

 
   I also realized that it might be wise to index the bowsprit in place as well which required fabricating the bowsprit. In reviewing the plans I noticed that a drawn detail did not make sense given the blending of flat surfaces and round ones; so back to actual photos of the real ship, one can be seen below.

Here are a couple of pictures of how I resolved the issue based on the photos. The main tapering of the bowsprit fore and aft then followed the plans; but the end did not.


I then got carried away and fabricated the dolphin striker as well. Another opportunity to hone my wood carving skills which are getting better everyday.


 
Here are the in progress parts coming together with more details yet to be added.



 
Now back to adding more bowsprit details. We are waiting for the city inspection on the electrical and plumbing of the new laundry room before I can get back to dry walling.
 
 

I have a broken plastic sign holder from the office that is not being used. It has the right curvature for the beam camber. I did a couple tests with different glues (styrene) and unfortunately the Evergreen plastic stuck to the plastic sign as well. So instead I added a Ziplock bag 1 ply thick and stretched it with Duck Tape. No sticking this time. It was initially set up in a convex style configuration...
 

 
 
... but I quickly realized the beams would not be flat to the deck in this configuration so I reversed it to  concave. I have to keep the plastic down with weights and clamps as they are glued but so far so good.
 
 

Looking mighty nice.  I've been following along with you progress.  Great to see how well your ship is coming together.  Looks to be a good sized kit to build.
 
Dan

Looking mighty nice.  I've been following along with you progress.  Great to see how well your ship is coming together.  Looks to be a good sized kit to build.
 
Dan

Progress;
 
All the frames cut out, sanded off the charred bits and fitted to the keel.
 

 
A enjoyable few hours work but the boat is taking shape.  I was surprised at the amount of charred bits to sand away.  Even so the laser cutting is much nicer to deal with then the old die cut Gullows kits from my dark dimly remembered boyhood ; .  I will glue the frame together tonight and let it dry overnight.  Next comes the shaping of the frames for the planking.
 
Jay -  Thank you for your encouraging reply.  Yours was one of the first build logs I read this morning.  I really liked how your Jolly Boat came out and will shamelessly pinch ideas, and colour scheme, from you, I hope you don't mind.  Thanks for the links and advise on planking.  I have spent a bit of time this afternoon looking into techniques of planking.  More informed but also more confused.  I will need to get some materials in my hands before it all clicks together. 
 
Mostly I'm just having fun!
 
Sailor1234567890 -  Well it's only one picture but it's a start.  I hope you like it.
 
Dan

Evan, you just continue along at your own pace.  It's such a joy to watch you work your magic on these old bits of plastic .  Your posts are always informative and enlightening. Thanks for taking the time and effort to document and clearly explain not just how you are building your Constitution but why you have decided to build her in that way.  Your build is very inspirational even to those with stalled builds of their own. 
 
Dan

Evan, you just continue along at your own pace.  It's such a joy to watch you work your magic on these old bits of plastic .  Your posts are always informative and enlightening. Thanks for taking the time and effort to document and clearly explain not just how you are building your Constitution but why you have decided to build her in that way.  Your build is very inspirational even to those with stalled builds of their own. 
 
Dan

Ok trial number 4:
 
Took a monogram and sank it by half into a poly ...
 

 
... broke it out ...
 

 
... and took the poly as holder to file down the backsides of the monograms down to half ...
 
... and bingo :-)
 
Some other side theaters of war ...
 
... rolled the wire for the thread rod with the filr to give it some structure ...
 

 
... and carved the bearings of the trunnion out of Evergreen.
 

 
On the last picture one can see that the sliding part has to slide over the mounts of the wheels, so it means, they have to be flush in the surface.
 
So marked the position on the circle ...
 
 
 
... and used a dummy for testing. First drilled a basic hole ...
 

 
... ground a old scalpel into shape ...
 

 
... and formed the drilled hole.
 

 
And the trials shows that it fits :-)
 

 
So assembled the carriage and barrel, splashed some paint onto it, fitted the appropriate eyebolts and it looks ok ;-)
 
Old and new side by side ...
 

 
... old - once state of the art -  ...
 

 
... and a bit pimped ...
 

 
... and it seems quite ok :-)
 
XXXDAn

Progress;
 
I have finished the internals for one side of the hull and got some paint work started.
 

 
 

 
 
I pushed the shadows a bit hard as I thought that they would get lost once the deck is in place.  This is what I was after with the deck just set in place.
 

 
 
Started some other little bits and now need to buckle down and do all this again on the other side of the hull.
 
I want to get the eyebolts in for the gun rigging and work some more on the gun deck.  Getting that installed is my main goal right now.
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Dan

I started this kit last year to rekindle the fun I had as a young teen building this kit in the mid 70's.  I usually build 1/32 scale aircraft and 1/6th figures and I apologise ahead of time for any howling mistakes I make with history or nautical practice.  I have been inspired by the many great builds on this forum.  Much of what I have done I have shamelessly borrowed from others here and for that I thank you all.
 
The build so far, State of play;
 

 
 
Not much to look at but a bit done to get this far.
 
I wanted to thicken the hull sides so used what I had read in Force9's log to add styrene to the inner hull.  While I'm at it I have added some styrene rod bolts  as well.  There should be many more but I had to trade off accuracy for sanity.
 

 
 
The gun deck was joined and re-scribed as per Force9 and I reworked the gratings as on my kit they where a mess.
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
First gunport on the bow was filled and made good.
 

 
 
A start has been made on the main armament.  I'm trying my hand at resin casting the barrels so I don't have to clean all those seams.
 

 
 
( I notice that I have some more details to add to these as I need to add some more eyebolts and a other bits.)
 
This last photo is where I'm working now.  I want to finish the bolts and internal structure on the gun deck so I can install same and get the rest of the hull together.
 
Thanks for stopping in for a look and as always constructive criticism is always appreciated.
 
Dan 
 

progress;
 

 
Mr Color copper with multiple washes of Flory weathering wash and watercolours.
 

 
I've started to work on more of the trim and I have a question.  If the broad stripe was repainted in yellow to confuse the British would the other trim remain white?  Or was it yellow as well? My first thought was that it would remain white but I keep seeing it in different combinations.  Thanks for any light you might shine on this.
 
Dan

Progress;
 

 
Not having the funds for overseas shipping of the Bluejacket photo etch sheet I thought I'd break out the styrene and have a bash.  Not all that accurate but once painted very dark grey and shaded it will at least give a presence of the stove being there.  The flue has been left long so that I can cut it down to fit the upper deck.
 
I have the Marquardt book of plans so I'm thinking of putting in the riding bits as I think you could see them through the gun ports.  I'll slap on some paint tonight and see if I have any hefty sized styrene for the bits.
 
Thanks for looking in.
 
Dan
 
Added some paint.