EJ_L

Hi.
Just a little on were I have researched  the information and construction methods.
 
Some very intresting reading here.
http://anthropology.tamu.edu/papers/Sasaki-MA2008.pdf
 
page 38 and 40 show the basic method of hull construction.
https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=ULh8BgAAQBAJ&pg=PA37&lpg=PA37&dq=korean+ancient+ship+building&source=bl&ots=6k05sVn3Ms&sig=fQa031fB0XcZHWltlczovosclAM&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiq-7WxsLTLAhXBWxQKHbLbBHwQ6AEIPjAK#v=onepage&q=korean%20ancient%20ship%20building&f=false
 
A drawing from this web page  https://namu.wiki/w/거북선Showing a cross section of the hull.

 
http://www.yi-sunsin.com/03ship/02_03_01.jsp This web page is in Korean.. but you can see there are a lot of differences between replica ships and models.
 
 
The timbers below are the bow timbers that were pined to the front of the ship for ramming protection. Rough carved for appearance.

 
Bow knees in place. This is just guess work But it is known that the Koreans used knees in there ship building.

 
Stern Knees.

 
A mast step. The mast on the Turtle Ship could be lowered down. and there must been some type of box to hold the mast base in place. again this is guess work. Step only placed and not yet fixed.

 

This drawing shows the mast in the lowers position. But other information shows the mast pivoting from the hull base.
 
Well that is about it for this post..
 
Regards Antony.
 

Hi.
Made a good start with the information I have..
 
A drawing of the Hold base. No keel on this ship .Flat bottom with thick planking.

 
The planking laid.

 
I've used the studding and bolts to squeeze the planks with wedges.

 
Base with cross sections ready to build up.

 
Bow and stern planking. The bow will have extra bulks of timber on the bows for ramming the enemy ships.

 
Made a jig to hold the planking in place while building. basic but that all that's needed.

 
Another view of the jig. showing the planking positions.

 
The jig is made of plylite. 

 
Will start to make the planks for the hull sides tomorrow. These are described as "L" shaped. 
Will post a photo of the making..
 
Regards Antony.
 

Hi.
Its time for a new project.. Been looking at this for sometime now.
I have made several trips to Korea and visited the war Museum in Seoul.
This was my first encounter of this ship.
There is a kit of this ship made by www.youngmodeler.com at 1/64 scale
There are also a few on E-Bay by the same manufacture.
There are no drawing of this ship and there are a lot of replicas made but most of them are very different. Very confusing.
There are a few referrals to the Turtle ship here on MSW.  including a Kit build by Wim500.
Also lots of nice photos by Grimber.
 
I intend to Build this @ 1/32 scale so the model will be big enough to include a bit of detail.
Rule 1...  No paint..
Rule 2..  Follow as much as possible the method of ship building as used in Korea. Lots of HELP wanted here.
The main timber I will be using will be English Cherry as I have a vast stock of it.
Other timber will be used to give contrast and looks.
Most of the Timber is very thick on this ship.
And the hull planking is pined downwards into the plank below.(very long tree nails) Will post a link to the information later.
I am at the stage of just starting the build planning. and laying the hull base (No keel on this ship).
Will be Building this in the Shed as its the only space big enough for the model and me.
 
That's it for now.
Thanks for looking in.
 
Regards Antony.
 
 
 
 

Very nicely done!
You might want to know that Corel is not known for their accuracy.
Their Amphion kit is not actually of the Amphion, but rather another of F.H Chapman's designs, no 4 on plate XLIV in Chapman's "Architectura Navalis Mercatoria":
http://www.sjohistoriska.se/ImageVaultFiles/id_3074/cf_1787/44.JPG
I have difficulty comprehending the reasoning behind doing this, especially since the real Amphion plans exist, the stern still exist and there are even photos of her.
See "Daniel G Harris: Fredrik Henrik af Chapman: The First Naval Architect and his Work"
Pg 90-91 for the Amphion plans.
Model:
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f3/Trtanj-Amphion.PNG

It is a nice model of a Chapman pleasure Yacht though.
It would be nice if more of the Chapman designs were issued as kits.

Very nice work!
Cheers,
Peter

Nice, your keeping yourself busy, now that's a good thing.

Another tiny update:
 
Some color on the decorations

 
It's place:

 
Bronze cannon and ebony stain on the carriage

 
And while I'm waiting for the next parts to come I have some time with one of the other projects
 
Corel's Amphion

by all means join in.......... E_J if you like Asian ships Ck out Antony 's "Turttle" build,,,, it's under Scratch Builds....
 
frank

Hi Frank. I would like to follow along also as I have not yet had the opportunity to see an Asian ship come together. Looks interesting and I look forward to watching your build.

Hi Frank. I would like to follow along also as I have not yet had the opportunity to see an Asian ship come together. Looks interesting and I look forward to watching your build.

Happy Birthday Sjors!

Hi Frank. I would like to follow along also as I have not yet had the opportunity to see an Asian ship come together. Looks interesting and I look forward to watching your build.

Hi Frank. I would like to follow along also as I have not yet had the opportunity to see an Asian ship come together. Looks interesting and I look forward to watching your build.

On my return ,my first thought was to do the "Marina ll" ...... but as you can see I changed my  mind. When I purchased the Marina ll, I also bought this Red Dragon kit . Hobbylinc had a pretty good price on it, so I ended up getting both. Both are different from what I've been doing . The Red Dragon kit is really not an overwhelming
chore, as you can see from the photos of whats in the box. I'm not complaining, after all it's not an expensive kit.
I will say this though, A.L. really does a nice job of merchandising their kits. The material is decent, except for the basswood ply. I like basswood, but not for keels or frames. I think the Marina uses real ply. Well anyway,
I'll post a couple pictures just to get started with this log. I'll star posting some of the build as soon  as I straighten out the bend in the basswood keel .... as always thanks for look'n in....
 
Frank
 
 

 
 

 
 

Believe it or not, I had the same problem with the twisted hull.  I wish I had paid more attention in how the decks fit, as they were flawed, and I think that was the main source of the problem.  Nothing you can do about it now.  I would suggest you sand a little more on the uneven planks at the front though.
 
I used a drill press for my masts and spars, as that let me use two hands for the tapering.  I drilled a hole, slightly bigger than the dowel being tapered in a piece of wood and clamped it to the drill press table.  So, one end in the chuck and the other in the piece of wood, like a vertical lathe.  I used files and sanding blocks of wood to taper them.  For the squared ends of the masts, they were easier to do than I expected.  They are too small to use a small plane.  I just made some cuts with a #17 Xacto chisel blade, and then used a sanding block to make them square.  When gluing the other mast sections and flagpoles together, lay them out on a flat counter top, and turn them from side to side.  This will help you ensure that they maintain parallelity with each other.  Remember that I reduced the size of my mast caps, as I thought they were too bulky for the masts.
 
If you want to do sails, I would recommend Wolfgang Mondeld's book.  There is a drawing of an English galleon in the beginning part of the book, that seems almost identical to the Golden Hind kit.  There is a lot of other rigging info in the book, so you have to research.  The biggest challenge is that you have to add extra belaying points.
 
I used 3mm blocks for the gun rigging, from Chuck's Syren Model Ship Supply.  I would think he would ship to the UK, so I would contact him.  He is quick to answer email.  In fact, I thought most of the blocks in the kit are junk, so all my blocks, deadeyes, and rigging thread came from Syren.
 
I searched for commercial triangular deadeyes, and there are none less than 5mm anywhere.  That's when I found Syren could make custom ones.
 
If you use the same 8mm belaying pins I did, from Amati, they are available in the UK.  I know, because I got some from there.
 
For the balcony, The rear wall is curved, so when you glue the floor to it, it should maintain the curve.  I left the inner cutout of the floor planking a little oversize for final fitting.  So, when fitting the finished balcony to the rear hull, you just have to adjust it, by sanding, little by little until it fits tight and square.  Of course you have to make the little cutouts in the short sides,to fit around the wale.
 
If you are talking about the three holes above the gunports, on the outside of the ship, the two lower ones are for the pins to the hinge castings, and the upper middle one is a through hole for a rope to hold the door open.  I did some filing on the hinge castings to bring them to a sharp point, glued them to the doors, then individually set and labeled each door  for later installation.  Installing the gun doors will probably be the last thing I do to the kit, as they would easily get knocked off while doing other things.
 
Randy

It looks good to me! Mistakes are just opportunities to learn and we never stop learning.

It looks good to me! Mistakes are just opportunities to learn and we never stop learning.

It looks good to me! Mistakes are just opportunities to learn and we never stop learning.

Happy Birthday Sjors!

Thanks for the comments and advice guys! Here are some pictures of the garboard. I did some measuring and such, and it looks to me like I have enough room to keep my planks at the width that they are at. There is also a picture of my transom. I know it is a little uneven as the planks make the twist, but I don't think the difference will show with paint on one side, and I am going to try to even it out. The reason it ended up this way was because early on planking I was not measuring the full distance needing planking. A beginner will make mistakes at some point. I plan on not making that mistake next build, mostly because I doubt I will paint the hull . Lastly, I am going to copper the whole keel, as not to show dents from carving rabbets and not to show the spacer I have. Anything above the waterline will be visible. I also apologize for not viewing all of your build logs. I will catch up on them when half the hull is planked, and then I will get back to planking.

Hey Elijah I think you're doing a great job on your ship. Blackening metal fittings is always a personal decision, bright metals will eventually dull even if they're coated with a clear lacquer. There are several really good threads on this forum on how to blacken metals. There is a definite learning curve and I would highly recommend reading through these before making a decision.
 
However the coppering is a slightly different story since copper turns green in saltwater. If you look online for photos of the Connie as she was pulled recently into dry dock you'll see a nice green patina. There are chemicals you can use to turn copper green quickly, or if you use wood you can do a faux finish to simulate the patina. This is what I did on my Connie per the instructions in the Mamoli kit.

Happy Birthday Sjors!

The Couronne shipyard has resumed work after an extended break. We took time off to mourn the passing of my first mate Brinkley. He developed cancer unexpectedly and had to be put down last Tuesday much to the Admiral's and mine sorrow. This, combined with having to take time to finalize plans for the new shipyard which has started construction today we had a busy and rather stressful week that did not allow time for ship building.
 
However, now I'm back at it and so here is a quick picture update of the work that I have managed to do in the past couple of days. She is slowly climbing upward and starting to flush out some details. I think I will have lots of good build time this week so I will see what more I can get done and also take some better pictures of the whole ship soon.
 
It feels good to be building again!
 
 
 
 

So this week has seen a lot of smaller details come together. I got ladders built and installed from the upper gun deck to the spar deck, railings installed, more cargo hatch gratings built and most of one of the cabin bulkheads built. Still have one more door to build and some clean up to do but overall a lot has changed. She is starting to come alive with these details.

Thanks Jon and Martin. 
To make the splice, I used the method described by D. Antscherl on page 42 of his FFM, volume 4.  It took a few tries to get a good one, but it came out alright.  For eye splicing, I use his method which is also described in his book.  I will check out Blue Ensign's log to see his technique.
Cheers.

Hi Ken -- you might have a look at Blue Ensign's log, where he shows how to make a false eye-splice, a VERY useful technique, and shockingly simple.  It will save you lots of time.
 
That's a nice, taut stay. 
 
Cheers,
 
Martin