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  1. md1400cs: I finally replied to your question in my log. Great job on your model!
  2. mdc1400cs: Sorry it took me so long to reply. I've been involved in something else right now and haven't been able to finish my model. From ear to ear, they are 2.80-2.90mm. There are some others in the Viking set that are 2.60-2.70mm. -Randy
  3. Believe it or not, I had the same problem with the twisted hull. I wish I had paid more attention in how the decks fit, as they were flawed, and I think that was the main source of the problem. Nothing you can do about it now. I would suggest you sand a little more on the uneven planks at the front though. I used a drill press for my masts and spars, as that let me use two hands for the tapering. I drilled a hole, slightly bigger than the dowel being tapered in a piece of wood and clamped it to the drill press table. So, one end in the chuck and the other in the piece of wood, like a
  4. Ciaran (Kihon): Thanks. I'll try to answer your questions on your own log. I've been busy with some things, and with travel plans I probably won't be able to get back to this ship until late July. Randy
  5. Mizzen sail rigged. Like I've mentioned before, that kit had no accommodation for sails. So, I had to figure out the shape and size of the sails, what lines were needed to rig the sails, where to belay the lines to, and how to add extra belaying points. The Wolfgang Mondfeld book was a great help for this. I used Amati sailcloth for the sails, dyeing them in weak coffee so they wouldn't be so stark white. In making the sails I somewhat followed Landluber Mike's technique for furled sails (found in the Masting section). He promotes greatly reducing the size of the sails, especially on
  6. I think it looks great! I would consider changing out the round deadeyes to triangular ones, though.
  7. You know, the excess rope coils that hang on the belaying pins? Should all the pins have these excess coils of rope? Why does a ship need so much extra rope anyway?
  8. Parrels. Of course there was no mention of these in the kit plans, and I thought of omitting them. Mainly because I couldn't see how I could make something so small, and still looked good and consistent from one to the next . What I didn't want were parrels that were way out of scale or clunky looking. For the smaller masts I needed parrel balls or trucks that were smaller than 2mm diameter. Somewhere I saw a listing for 2mm trucks, but I wondered how rounded they really were, and there was nothing smaller, so probably wouldn't work. As far as making them from scratch, I couldn't imagine
  9. I attached the anchor assembly. I even did the puddening, which I originally wasn't going to bother with. I did it by wrapping thin thread around the ring by itself, a few coils at a time, before applying a tiny amount of CA to the last coil, before doing a few more coils. Then, I closed the ring to the anchor body using a flat face pliers, so as not to damage the thread. On the catheads, I did them a little different from the plans. I attached a eyebolt to the side to seize one end of the rope to, and attached a timberhead I made to the top of the cathead, to belay the other end of th
  10. I guess I don't understand then. You can always have a few narrower and tapered planks here and there. How do you think they do real ships? Still, I would start laying down that first layer of planks. It doesn't have to be that perfect, because the main purpose is to get the overall shape. Then use some filler and sand the rough spots. The first layer will help you realize what problems you may have with the second layer, and how to make them fit. Nothing wrong with sanding the second layer too.
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