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catopower reacted to a post in a topic: Printer color adjustments...
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daHeld73 reacted to a post in a topic: Oryol 1902 by GrandpaPhil - Orel - 1/200 - CARD - Russian Battleship
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic: Le Coureur 1776 - Shipyard 1:72-scale Laser-Cut Card Model Kit
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic: V108 by catopower - Digital Navy - 1/200 Scale - CARD - Torpedo Boat - MSW Tutorial Build
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic: Oryol 1902 by GrandpaPhil - Orel - 1/200 - CARD - Russian Battleship
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic: Mark Anthony by king derelict - FINISHED - Andrea Models - 54mm
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Review Le Coureur 1776 - Shipyard 1:72-scale Laser-Cut Card Model Kit
Jsk replied to catopower's topic in REVIEWS: Model kits
Thanks for the review. I haven't acquired any of the Shipyard models yet but am sorely tempted. They certainly seem to be the be pinnacle of card models. I suspect they're a bit out of my league for now but eventually I'll break down and get one (or more!).- 12 replies
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Looks like you're getting down to last steps. She looks great!
- 257 replies
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- Card
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Just so! At the time I was working weekends and had a couple of weekday off when the Admiral was at work. 😉
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Have you tried Necroscoping? A couple of years ago I was designing a Zeppelin model (there's an old build log on the Paper Modelers forum under the user name 'Kugelfang') and I used the technique to laminate some pieces. Basically, I took plastic from a zip lock bag, sandwiched it between the two pieces of card I wanted to laminate, encased the whole thing in a folded piece of 20# paper and ran a medium (or low?) temperature iron over it to melt the plastic and bond the two pieces of card stock together. It also added considerable rigidity to the piece--which is why it might be worth trying. As a matter of fact, when I get back to my skipjack build I think I'll try this technique for the frame of the winder which will be similar to your support girders. Just a thought....
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Jsk reacted to a post in a topic: Sargon II by king derelict - FINISHED - Art Girona - 54mm
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BTW, 'Lo! was the nickname of Ernst Udet's fiance Eleonore Zink. He decorated several of his WWI fighters with her name. They married shortly after the war but soon parted. Udet was a notorious womanizer. Here's a link to a genealogy site with a picture of Ernst and Eleonore: https://www.geni.com/photo/view/6000000032874351324?album_type=photos_of_me&photo_id=6000000032876947921 After the war, among other activities, Udet became a stunt flier performing live and in the movies. One of his signature tricks was to snag a handkerchief from the ground with a wingtip of his plane traveling at speed. A consummate flyer and bon vivant, he was out of place as an administrator in Herman Goering's Luftwaffe and committed suicide in 1941. It appears that Eleonore survived until 1947.
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Jsk reacted to a post in a topic: Slavic Warrior VII century AD by king derelict - FINISHED - Pegaso Models - 75mm
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Sargon II by king derelict - FINISHED - Art Girona - 54mm
Jsk replied to king derelict's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Looks to me like Sargon is pointing accusingly at his pet cat after it destroyed his latest attempts at rigging a model ship. 'Bad kitty! Bad kitty!' -
Jsk reacted to a post in a topic: Fokker D.VII by ccoyle - FINISHED - Kartonowa Kolekcja - 1/33 - CARD
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Thanks again, guys. I've got all sorts of ideas bouncing around in my head as to what I want to do on the next build. But... patience. No more building until the move. Though, I do have a couple of resin 1/700 civil war ships to paint. That will have to do for a while.
- 37 replies
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Thanks, GPP! Yeah, I'm going to have to try that. Do you use a brush on sealant or spray? I don't tend to use spray anything as the Admiral has some respiratory sensitivity to almost anything aerosol. I didn't treat the card in any way on this build. Since I'm using a laser printer I think it will also help protect from scratching the toner off the card, too. One of the reasons I didn't do anything on the Baltimore was because it was mostly white so I figured it wouldn't be too bad. However, a lot of the pre-dreads are black and I think that would just be a nightmare to deal with.
- 37 replies
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Well, she's launched! I have some mixed emotions for this build. Like always, by the end I was tired of working on it. But over the past several years I have worked hard to break the habit of having unfinished projects laying around. I used to be really bad about it. Then I started by telling myself that I would not buy any new books until I finished the one I was currently reading. Then it worked its way into my figure painting hobby and by now I always try to finish what I start. Still... I'm glad this one's finished. We're planning on moving in October so I won't be starting any new modeling projects until we get settle into the new place. I won't have as much hobby space in the new house so I'm sure there will have to be some adjustments. So the good and the bad of the Heinkel USS Baltimore kit. Keep in mind that I built the electronic version which I had to print myself. There is a physical print of this kit and laser cut formers are available from WAK. I did the roll-your-own version. 1) Like many modern card models the design is very precise. Perhaps too precise... at least for someone of my skill level. I found many of the small parts just too frustrating and difficult to make from card. Luckily, I could compensate by virtually modeling most of these parts and having them 3d printed. In fact, I found the 3d modelling one of the most enjoyable parts of the build. 2) Again, like most modern card models the instructions are only average. They mostly consist of images of the assembled model (or sub-models) with the part numbers picked out. So while the builder usually knows what goes where, the sequence of putting them there is left to the imagination. It does require some thought in order to avoid tripping over previously installed parts. Though the model carries a very simplified rigging scheme, the instructions are particularly vague about the rigging. It gives no indication as to how the various lines attach to the hull, etc. In fact, the lines are barely discernible in the instructions. I did refer to some of the numerous images of the Baltimore available on-line but I have no idea if my interpretation is anywhere close to accurate. In short, there's plenty of scope for independent research with this model. 3) Not a attribute of the electronic kit, per se, but I need to pay more attention to the card/paper I use. Certainly some of the smaller parts would have been more achievable if I had printed them on thinner stock. But for some reason it didn't even occur to me until very late in the process. I printed everything on, IIRC, 110# index card which I've had for several years. I found that the card itself de-laminated much too easily! Even now i'm afraid the ventilators will pop off the deck and take the top layer of the card with it. It's sort of like gluing together a plastic model after painting it. Its integrity is only as good as the paint adherence. 4) I'm not very happy with my build quality. There's just a lot of sloppiness when I look at the details. Overall, there are plenty of details on the model so the individual gaffs are somewhat overwhelmed by the 'busyness' of the whole thing. Still, I don't think I'll be building a case to protect this particular model. Not to mention, with the upcoming move I was feeling pressured to complete the model and rushed through some steps that would have benefited from doing more research on the actual ship. Overall, though, I have several more Heinkel models in my virtual stash and look forward to building them. Heinkel models are a rich source for ironclads and pre-dreadnoughts and they fill a niche not available anywhere else. I've seen several examples built by builders much more talented and experienced than me and they can be truly inspirational models. In the shipyard for the final fitting out: Beauty shots ("No close ups, Mr. Demille, no close ups!):
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