AntonyUK

I have finally finished the Lower deck now. I used a homemade punch to mark all of the treenails and then filled them with a ebony wood filler and sanded the deck and then applied 4 coats of Antique Oil. I think it turned out okay. I placed two treenails on every plank between the butt planks, maybe overkill, but I still think it worked out okay. Could have been a bit neater though.
 

 

 
 

Hello
 
With my first build log[1] on hold for a year, it's time to sail into new and uncharted waters (and then sink there).
 
First of all I'd like to say thanks to all the people who popped in with a thumbs up when I presented[2] my idea
 
 
 
What I'm giong to build is this: A lit diorama, in a box, of an ROV investigationg an old wooden wreck in the blackness of the deep sea.
 
The inspiration for the project comes from two places. Firstly, from the abundance of remarkable wreck discoveries in the Baltic sea in recent years.
And secondly from an "art" project I abandoned some years ago - diorama night lights. I thought it would be cool if you could lie and gaze at some scene, say, your favourite street corner, while you drift off into sleep.
 
Now the night lights are back, but they're Wreck Lights now. Yes, Wreck Lights, That's what I'm going to build. 
 
The scale will be fairly small - it would be weird to have a night light the size of grandma's telly ... 
 
 
What I'm aiming for as far as the wreck itself is concerned is something like this:
http://www.hydro-international.com/issues/articles/id1236-The_Ghost_Ship_Expedition.html
 
It might be cool to do a fluyt. I really like fluyts, wrecked or not.
 
 
Any tips, sharing of thoughts, reference material etc. is of course much appreciated.
 
Lastly, I've done a silly illustration to show you what I have in mind (I won't build the kid ...)
 

 
 
[1]http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3046-toy-ship-by-farbror-fartyg-inspired-by-large-17th-century-ships/
[2]http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3063-wreck-site-diorama/

Mile stone reached raising the sixth frame today. Pleased with the way it’s going now. Fingers crossed.
 

Carl,
 
This is one of those questions that will get responses all over the place - it's the (in your case) BMW vs Vauxhall situation. So here's my take on which CAD to use:
 
1st - I'm a CAD professional with 42 years of Graphics/CAD experience. I use it every workday and sometimes on weekends. So, my response is biased, but based on experience.
 
Nothing in life is free - understand that first and go from there. Cheap CAD programs and most shareware are based (somewhat loosely) on AutoCAD. In my experience, that is NOT the easiest or most user friendly software available. Just because it sells more copies doesn't mean it's the top choice from a user standpoint.
 
Now, my CAD software of preference is Bentley MicroStation. The normal software can do 2D, 3D, modeling, etc. If you don't want that extensive ability, then look for their PowerDraft version of MicroStation. It has all the 2D functionality and ease of use that their full-blown 3D/modeling version comes with. MicroStation is much more sophisticated than the ACAD based programs are. You have less keystrokes in placing lines, circles, etc. (elements) in a drawing with Micro than with ACAD. We can support dual monitors and divide each into 4 views, if you so choose. Any CAD software is going to take time to learn to use PROPERLY. It isn't something that you are going to be doing (correctly) after one day. Since I do CAD professionally, I look at this perhaps somewhat thru a different viewpoint than an occasional user. I also use this software for my ship modeling needs. My last project I created over 40 drawings for that model - all the masts, yards, gun carriages, fittings, deck furnishings, etc.
 
MicroStation, rather Bentley (parent company) is available in Europe - here is the US website:
(http://www.bentley.com/en-US/) - I would highly recommend you shop around and perhaps find someone who has an older licensed version that they are interested in selling. Pricewise, MicroStation is comparitable with ACAD here Stateside. While other packages are either free or cheap keep one thing in mind - you get what you pay for.

Ron,
that's looking good. You might find it easier/faster by clamping 6 or 8 planks together, level them, glue the paper on, then slice them apart with a thin blade (like the old style double edged razor blades).
 
Regards,
Grant.

Hello Karl.
I have just finished reading through the entire log.
It has taken me some 3.5 hours and at every photo I am amazed at the skills and quality of this build.
You always add that little bit more detail and enhance the already perfect build.
 
Please keep the photos and build posted as I am following this build.
 
Regards Antony.

The story I heard about the HL hinges was that it stood for Holy Lord and would keep witches out of the house.   They must work because I have not seen any (more) witches in my house, since making these hinges for several models.
 
Allan

I think the main issue here is the fictional aspect.You will never win an argument with a kit manufacturer as regards to accuracy as alot of historical reference material is sketchy to say the least.The biggest bug bear for me is advertising kits as being a model of such and such from x date.The manufacturers know this is fabrication and to be honest to me the missreprescentation is plainly illegal.Yes some of these kits can be built into very nice and convincing models to the non historian.I think the manufacturers of said kits should be made to justify the historical information they give to these particular models.Don't get me wrong I nothing against these kits and indeed shall be using the plans of one for a scratchbuild,it is just the fact that the customer should know the truth.Some model kit manufactures have got away with so much that is in breach of consumer law.
Kind Regards Nigel

The gangways are complete, I decided it would be easier to make them off the model, then install them complete. The construction sequence is pretty self explanatory (in spite of the fuzzy pictures, apologies). Clamping the first three planks was done in a jig, the rest of the joints were made by clamping to the table of the Byrnes saw (versatile piece of machinery).
 

 
Grant.

Hi.
I am now the very pleased owner of the Byrnes saw.
I have been working through the link provided below ( and a very usefull like too).
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2593-cutting-scale-timber/
I am an engineer by trade that has worked to dead size tolerances and when I look at its build I can tell that Jim is also a engineer.
Every part of this saw is made to exacting standards and quality is outstanding.
No wonder you people over the puddle send so many rockets into space with this standard of machining and quality.
I have to say this is one quite machine and I could use it in the lounge while skipper is watching TV.
So far I have produced timber that far exceeds the timber I have purchased. Tolerances and finish are wonderful.
 
If any one has any questions ..Please ask.
 
Would I recommend this saw ... YES.
Regards Antony.

Hi.
I am now the very pleased owner of the Byrnes saw.
I have been working through the link provided below ( and a very usefull like too).
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2593-cutting-scale-timber/
I am an engineer by trade that has worked to dead size tolerances and when I look at its build I can tell that Jim is also a engineer.
Every part of this saw is made to exacting standards and quality is outstanding.
No wonder you people over the puddle send so many rockets into space with this standard of machining and quality.
I have to say this is one quite machine and I could use it in the lounge while skipper is watching TV.
So far I have produced timber that far exceeds the timber I have purchased. Tolerances and finish are wonderful.
 
If any one has any questions ..Please ask.
 
Would I recommend this saw ... YES.
Regards Antony.

Hi.
And The circuit just to clarify.
 
 

 
Regards Antony.

Hi.
Having seen a few people on this site put LED's into there models I thought it would be nice to have a flickering candle lamp for the period ship.
Its cost is low and the effect is real.
The brightness and the duration of the flickering are randon on each candle.
I found this on the Arduino page and its is freeware IE no lisence to use.
I used surface mount LED's as they are very small and easy to put into almost any scale of model.
Step by Step instructions below.
 
Equipment needed :-
 1  Arduino nano chip. Source  Ebay  261232492487
Very thin wire (Copper will hold its shape after bending). Insulated or un insulated will do.
6  SMT 1206 White LED’s . Source  Ebay   121077374673 or you could use 3mm LED’s (much bigger).
6  Resisters 820 Ohms.  Grey, Red, Brown.
1  Battery holder for 4 AAA batteries.
4  Batteries AAA  Rechargeable.
1  Simple On/Off switch.
 
1 orange shopping bag. For the colour.
Computer with USB.
Total cost £18
 
Step 1 Download the Arduino  software from :- http://www.arduino.cc/  Second Tab click the Download.
A little way down the page click on Windows Installer and it will install the Environment.
Now click the Getting started to the Right of the Windows Installer.
Agree with the download (varies with Windows version) and click to install.
It will ask if you want to install the drivers Yes install.
Next click the Chip you are using ”Arduino Nano”. There are two types check the type you have.
 
Run the Arduino software and use the information on selecting the Arduino Nano.
A small box area will appear. Copy and paste the Code below into the white area.
Next plug in the Arduino Nano into the USB and the computer will find the Arduino Nano.
Now under File in the Arduino Environment select File in the Top left corner move down to Upload and click.
The Arduino should flicker when uploading. And the Arduino Environment will display any messages relating to the uploading. You may need to change the COM port to get a successful upload.
That’s the programming Done.
Step 2.
The Arduino Nano Chip Has no Headers soldered in place.  This makes it easy for us to connect the LED and Power.
Refer to picture.
Connect the + on the battery box to the Switch
Connect the + from the switch to Pin No 27
Connect the Ground from the battery Box to Pin No 29
Now solder a resister into Pin’s numbers. 6.8.9.12.13. and 14.
Next you solder the SMT LED’s to the Wire.
You can test each one as you complete the soldering by connecting the Anode to the 5 volt power supply. And the cathode to the Unconnected en of a resister.
With the battery on the connected LED should flicker.
Repeat the same for all 6 LED’s.
Next we tear off strips of the Orange bag and wrap it around the LED. Do not buy Orange LED as the effect is not the same.
Mount the LED inside lanterns around the ship. Careful planning will hide all the wires.
The Anode of each resister can be connected to the same wire. Common Power.
The LED’s and wire can be built into the model as it’s rare for a Led to fail.
The Arduino Nano and the Battery box can be hidden in the base.
 
Code Below this line. ******************************************************
 
/*http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php/topic,7115.0.html
 * randomly flickering LEDs
 */
 
int ledPin[] = {
  3,5, 6, 9, 10, 11};              // pwm pins only
int ledState[6];                 // last state of each led
long randNumber;
 
void setup() {
 
    pinMode(ledPin[0], OUTPUT);   // Just tells the Arduino that this is a output
    pinMode(ledPin[1], OUTPUT);
    pinMode(ledPin[2], OUTPUT);
    pinMode(ledPin[3], OUTPUT);
    pinMode(ledPin[4], OUTPUT);
    pinMode(ledPin[5], OUTPUT);
 
  randomSeed(analogRead(0));     // seed the random generator with noise from unused pin
    ledState[0] = random(20, 201);
    ledState[1] = random(20, 201);
    ledState[2] = random(20, 201);
    ledState[3] = random(20, 201);
    ledState[4] = random(20, 201);
    ledState[5] = random(20, 201);
}
 
void loop(){

    analogWrite(ledPin, ledState);     // set the pwm value of that pin determined previously
    randNumber = random(-70, 71);            // generate new random number and add that to the current value-40,41
    ledState += randNumber;               // that range can be tweaked to change the intensity of the flickering
    if (ledState > 200) {                 // clamp the limits of the pwm values so it remains within
      ledState = 200;                     // a pleasing range as well as the pwm range
    }
    if (ledState < 10) {
      ledState = 10;
    }
  }
  delay(100);    // the delay between changes
}
 

 
 
Any questions ..PLease ASK.
 
Regards Antony.

Saturday July, 06th, 2013.
 
"Santísima Trinidad", Cross Section.

I have been following this topic with interest and it reminded me of some old pictures I kept on my PC from the MSW 0.1.
I know this is slightly off topic but thought it may be interesting for those interested in making cheapo profile mill bits.
These were from the build log of the Panteleymon by Russian master builder Alex Baranov. It is a pictorial tutorial that may come in useful to some:
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 
 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Tom,
 
Gaeton is absolutely right. Milling bits are more complex than drill bits. There are different designs for different functions. They should be used wherever possible. However, I have successfully used ground down broken drill bits to mill very small slots. I have cut slots in brass and wood this way. With the brass I chain drill the slit then use the broken bit (same size) to mill the holes in to a slot. (Purists will be rolling their eyes now!  )  The trick was to keep the length of unsupported bit as short as possible and to take it very, very slowly, taking very small cuts on each pass. For wood I keep the speed low to avoid burning.
 
When milling you should always use a collet to ensure the mill bit is running concentrically. Initially I used an ordinary power drill type three jaw chuck and broke a couple of milling bits (expensive). Since using collets (sadly also expensive) I have not had any bit problems. 
 
Another thing to avoid with micro milling machines is "Climb milling". The small machines are less rigid than their larger brothers, so if you try climb milling (particularly on metal) the milling bit can grab (rather than cut) the work resulting in, at best, a mangled work piece or possibly a broken mill bit or even damage to the machine itself. Before I had the miller I did my milling on a micro lathe using a vertical slide. I had spent some time milling a piece and was approaching the end - got sloppy - and did my final pass using climb milling. It grabbed. It broke one cutting edge off the bit, left my beautiful work looking look at had been attacked with a cold chisel. The lurching machine also frightened the life out of me.
 
Below are two diagrams that show the difference between conventional (first diagram) and climb milling.
 
Conventional milling.
 

 
Climb milling
 

 
With regard to training - personally I have had none (which is probably obvious to those who have been formally trained) but am a cheerful amateur. There are plenty of small, cheap soft cover books available that give introductions to milling. On You Tube there are loads of "how to" clips on the subject (I recently looked at a series by Tubal Cain on making a single cylinder steam engine from basic materials).
 
If you decide to get a milling machine then:
 
Step 1 - read, understand and observe the safety instructions.
Step 2 - read the basic operating instructions supplied with the machine.
Step 3 - clamp a block of pine wood on the machine and fit a milling bit and try things out - as long as you have done step 1 and 2 carefully, and don't wind the bit in to the miller's table you won't do any harm.
Step 4 - enjoy the experience.
 
I find it a very satisfying experience to watch the miller in action (what a sad existence this man must live - I hear you say!).     
 
 
    
 
  
 
 

Hi.
A little progress.
Made up the Pumphouse (personalised ) the planking
This is the Jig I used  to keep things square.

 

 

Note the Staggered overlap. I like the look of the corners.

Still not Finished the Pump house and Shot locker.
 
This is a test on how the treenails will look.

 
We decided to add the treenails to the planks before planks are added to the model.

 
All frames are in place on the keel.

and another view.

 
More next week.
Regards Antony.
 

HI.
Done a little of the Planking to the exterior of the hull this weekend.

 

 

Quite happy with the finish.
A bit more next weekend.
 
Regards Antony.

Hi Ron,
 
I agree that your coloring looks very nice and that your build is coming along nicely.
Also it’s great that you are learning from any problems you may have had. By the
end of a build we are so much better then when we started.
 
That’s a big part of the enjoyment for me.  

It's been awhile since my last post, but I have been doing a couple of changes on my build. I decided that since this is my first and experimental build, I would change the look a bit. So, the following pictures will explain themselves. I'm learning a lot about how not to do things and will carry those over to my next build. This build is not very good in my opinion, and I hope to do a lot better on the next one. But hey, I'm learning as I go, and that's one of the main things.
 
Have the hanging knees installed. They are all different sizes etc. Bad job, but I guess they look okay for this deck.
 

 

 
Sanded the planking again and decided to stain some planks. I like the look but oh man what a job that was. Lesson learned - stain the wood first and use the proper wood before you install it.
 

 
Use the proper wood next time. <<<< DO NOT TRY TO STAIN AFTERWARDS>>>>
 

 
I'm learning that if I have the proper tools in the first place, I would have had a way better build. The joints would have been better and the build could have been quicker. 
Oh well, live and learn. 
 

Sarah, thank you!! I dont think I could have done the hinges with out photo etching them. They still need a lot of clean up and I need to decide pretty soon if I will blacken them or leave them bright. Decisions decisions!!!
Sam

Thank you Pete, both Grants, David, Matrim, Ben, Paddy and 42 Rocker!
 
Bob, Funny you say that. I've always looked to you for insperation to do my best. Thanks!
 
Ok I've spent a whle drilling hole for the treenails.
 

 
Gonna draw the treenails tonight and start plugging those holes!
 

Thanks, Grant. It's worked out better than I expected.
 
The lower deck framing is now complete and installed. I added the fourth beam and the beam arms, as well as their carlings and ledges. The bottom and sides of the assembly were finished with Wipe-on Poly. The top will be given the finish after a portion has been planked. I then installed the entire assembly permanently. Next, the hanging knees were cut from boxwood sheet, fitted, finished with Wipe-on Poly and installed. Lastly, the pillars were cut from boxwood strip, their corners chamfered, finished with Wipe-on Poly and then installed.
 
The next steps will be to plank a portion of the lower deck and to plank the interior from the lower deck to the gun deck clamps.
 
Bob

Hi.
Well I have lashed out and gone for for the Byrnes saw with extra blades etc.
Just waiting now ..Tick Tock .Tick Tock.
 
Regards Antony.

This issue seems to me that of wanting to use thin blades to save on the costs of cutting up expensive raw materials ie. exotic hardwoods. I again will go back to the same comments that I made earlier, "slitting saws" were not designed for cutting strip-wood they were designed for slitting metal with lots of lubricants.
 
Speed seems also to be a concern, given the time that it seems to take to build models with exotic hard woods what is the rush with regards to making strips?
 
I have posted elsewhere that making thin strips of wood can be accomplished with full sized commercial saws or with hand tools. I think and this is my own personal opinion that we get pulled into having to do something a particular way because we are led to believe that this should be possible, and sometimes it is not necessarily the best way.
 
That said  I am a firm believer in using the right tool for the job. The best intentions of those selling "Model Making Tools" might not be the best tool for the Job. and further to that the makers of such Model making tools had certain limitations in mind when they designed those tools. I fear that sometimes they are pushed beyond their limits, and then the toolmaker is blamed.
 
I will get down off the soapbox now!
 
Michael