Trussben

As for your question
 
 
According to "Steel" and the "Shipbuilders repository" table of scantlings, a 32gun frigate of the time would have had 11 1/2" wide framing,  with a room and space of 27 3/4"
 
So you would have a line of treenails in a row with a gap between them of just under 2.5" ( 11.5 + 11.5 + 2.375 + 2.375 = 27.75 ).
 
On my cutaway section on my Winnie I simplified that to 11" frames with 3" gaps inbetween. Also if you look on the Plans - Chuck showed a section midships above the wales with a treenail pattern that you could just copy.
 
Hope that helps - that would be a lot of treenails to make!

Good day all,
Starboardside chapter 3 finished. Hopefully chapter 3 finished these Christmas Holidays…
I added some extra fancy molding above the QG windows as my roof and fancy molding was a little high and I didn’t like the large blue space above these windows. Also on the contemporary model I spotted something that looks more or less the same…
The roof and channels are not glued on permanently yet ofcourse!
Frank.

the quarter badge:

I couldn't believe it when a friend told me how long it has been since my last post.
My only excuse is that life caught up with me and subsequently Winnie took a back seat.
She was finished some time ago so I will post a couple of photos that show some of the details.
Since taking these shots someone made me an offer that I could not refuse so Winnie now has a good home leaving me with plenty of space in the workshop.
Who knows I  am tempted to build another one and hopefully correct some of the mistakes I made first time round.



My thanks must go to Chuck for making this superb ship build available.
To all those who, with their helpful comments and suggestions made this possible...Thank you.

https://deadline.com/2023/11/pete-davidson-joins-jennifer-coolidge-gabrielle-union-movie-riff-raff-new-jersey-1235631611/

https://deadline.com/2023/11/pete-davidson-joins-jennifer-coolidge-gabrielle-union-movie-riff-raff-new-jersey-1235631611/

That is my hope....if I can do my small part.   I do get vetoed a lot.   The movie isnt about ship modeling but the guy just happened to be a an experienced intermediate kit builder.   Many scenes will take place in the garage workshop.   I have a gigantic pile of old journals and seaways ships in scale mags to leave scattered throughout the house....LOL.  But they keep taking them away.
 
Its pretty friendly though.  I mentioned that my admiral doesnt like my ship model stuff all around the house either.  Then puzzled.... they asked me...."Your Admiral?"
 
I explained that many ship modelers refer to their significant others fondly or even not so fondly as the admiral.   They all laughed and have decided to write that into the script...LOL.  They want the guy to be a real ship modeler.  One scene the wife enters and breaks a model and yells at the actor to clean up all the sawdust and mess.   Sawdust I happily swept up from my shop floor the night before.
 
Chuck

No winnie…only small boats.  Lots of half built models from my shop just placed all over in his fake workshop.  But once I have it all set up I hope to have actual pics…maybe with some of actors if they would allow it.  But there are so many freaken rules.  

https://deadline.com/2023/11/pete-davidson-joins-jennifer-coolidge-gabrielle-union-movie-riff-raff-new-jersey-1235631611/

https://deadline.com/2023/11/pete-davidson-joins-jennifer-coolidge-gabrielle-union-movie-riff-raff-new-jersey-1235631611/

https://deadline.com/2023/11/pete-davidson-joins-jennifer-coolidge-gabrielle-union-movie-riff-raff-new-jersey-1235631611/

https://deadline.com/2023/11/pete-davidson-joins-jennifer-coolidge-gabrielle-union-movie-riff-raff-new-jersey-1235631611/

Thank you guys.  Work will slow down for a while.  I have been hired to help out on a feature film for the next couple of weeks.  The lead actor is a ship modeler.  I have been asked to help set up a believable ship model workshop and stage the home with my models along with others from my New Jersey club members.  Its exciting and a once in a lifetime thing I just couldnt pass up.
 
The lead character played by Ed Harris will be building my Medway Longboat kit in his workshop.  How great is that…along with my tools and other things to dress up his garage workshop.  I am
going to help teach them how to fake it as a ship modeler.
 
Starring Ed Harris, Dustin Hoffman, Jennifer Coolidge and Gabriel Union.  

Fantastic work Chuck.

Fantastic work Chuck.

Fantastic work Chuck.

Finally finished up the stern details today.  At least up to the point I would like to do them for this chapter.
 
First up was to paint the top of the transom before adding the actual carvings.  I didnt have to paint all the way to the upper edge.  I didnt want a painted seam to show afterwards.  I also marked the lower areas so I knew where to stop the painting as well.  You cant tell in the photos but its not black at all.  Its a very muted brown black and even gray.   I didnt want it to be too stark a black.  I also dusted some blue on there as well.  So much for my photo skills, LOL.
 

The two figures (port and starboard) were removed as they wont be added till last in this series of steps.  Then the actual carved transom was glued into position.  Once again this was after some initial cleanup and staining to make it match the wood color.  Old masters gel stain (fruitwood) was used once again.
 

With the transom carving secure it was time to focus on the forward side of the carving.  Basically the thickness of the carved transom is thicker port and starboard.   Where it hangs over on both sides.  There is a little carved detail in the center of this as well which can be seen on the contemporary model.  My solution was to build up this area with two layers.  The first middle layer is laser cut in boxwood.   This layer was cleaned up of it laser char and then shaped a bit with some sandpaper and files.  The edges were rounded off and I just had some fun with it.  You can see my example being held in the clamp.  You guys can do as much as you like with this piece.  Photo is below.  Then the most forward layer will be glued on as well.   This is a resin casting.
 

When gluing them on you must finesse them a bit.  Meaning you may have to trim some of the hull molding etc.  You can fill any cracks or seams with wood filler and generally speaking try to blend them all together.  The photo below shows these two layers on the model.  They were glued to the forward side of the transom.
 

Next up was to add the columns.  This is pretty straight forward.   All of these pieces are laser cut for you.  The tops and bottoms of the columns are 1/16" thick.  They were cleaned of laser char and filed to suit.  Then glued on the transom.  The long fluted columns are thinner but laser cut as well.  The laser char sanded from these and the each column was sanded to length for a tight fit between the tops and bottoms we just added.  This takes a while to do but isnt difficult.  You may also notice some molding at the base of each window.  They are between the columns bases.   These are laser cut too.  Just remove the char and round off the top edge like a quarter round.  Then glue them in.
 

Lastly we can put those two standing figures back where they belong.  But before you do...there are tiny laser cut bases made for them.  These bases or the floor...rock...the ground...whatever you would like to call them need to be shaped.  They are shaped like a little step.  I did this rather than incorporate them into the casting.  Everybody's model is slightly different.  You can customize this base so your figure fits perfect on your model.   See the photo...
Just sand it free of char and file some bumps and grooves into it.  Mine are hardly noticeable in the photo but they are there.  Make it look like a stone or rock base.  Using this keeps the nice run of the molding that wraps around the stern while covering the seams between all those layers we created.   It covers up where the figures will stand while creating the correct angle for the figure to match the transom.  It will be hardly visible.   Shape yours to suit.

Here the figure is glued in place but not until after the tiny base was glued in position first.  You can see the figure stepping on the small rock carved base.  This pretty much finishes up the stern to the point where I want to be in this chapter.  Its for the most part complete except for some very small features we add much much later.  I think it came out rather nice considering this is a kit.   But my goal was of course not to make it look kit-like at all.
 


 


 
The contemporary model...
 

 

Thanks JJ and Vladimir.  Super short update as the glass contents aren't getting any younger.  Longer update after some cleanup and WOP.
 

Chapter 8 Complete
 
It took me a lot less time to complete chapter 8 than it did chapter 7. It would have been done sooner except for two things: I split my available time between Winchelsea and creating a book from our Kenyan adventure, it’s now done and being printed. The second, for some now inexplicable reason we got a puppy - what were we thinking. It’s a nice Beagle but it takes a ton of time…anyway.


Picking up where I left off with the forecastle I created a few jigs to square up and assemble the two sets of bitts, the table with movable clamps comes in handy. The spacers were helpful in establishing proper distances as well as aligning both. I pinned as well as glued them to the deck after scratching through the coats of WOP on the deck beneath the runners.

MDF left over from prior models repeatedly comes in handy for creating jigs. In this case I milled a carefully measured grove on the bottom of three pieces to square up the stove I’d made so very long ago. It has a small not visible rectangle of wood on the bottom planed the height of the stove legs so I didn’t have to depend on the thin legs. More importantly these spacers set the proper location of the chimney per the templates so it sits the proper distance from beams fore and aft of it. This is a bit tricking to establish so I spent a good amount of time dry-fitting and measuring, then first gluing in the drip tray followed by the stove.

With that done I could then measure, place, pin, and glue the aft set of bitts. Again a MDF spacer between it and the cargo hatch was important. I had to interpret the plans a bit and judge the distance of the bitts from the aft most beam to properly place it. The MDF risers for the weight don’t sit on the cargo hatch, but instead a more narrow ones below it. The weights were needed as well as using a #11 blade to again scratch up the deck and its 3 coats of WOP below the runners.

I mentioned this last time, it was very important to work slowly from bow to aft, it would have been near impossible to place the stove and the bits had I been premature in gluing beams, not to mention how the covered cannon would have been placed. Also had I mounted the cannon too early it would have complicated fitting and attaching the knees. Speaking of which, I’ve spent a long time on scraping, painting, and fitting all these knees. I will have to keep these photos for my memories as they’ll soon all be completely covered by decking. I’m sill considering alternative decking to keep some of them exposed. Anyway…
 
You’ll notice blue tape running down the sides of the hull. I call those my canaries(as in the coal mine). I hit the tape (I hope) before I hit a cannon barrel or port lid in my clumsy fashion of moving too fast from tool tray to deck. It’s dumb, but so far it seems to work. I could just slow down and not hit them...


With that the final two beams are glued in and the carlings added. The carlings too are a bit tricky. They will be covered by decking but are needed to support coaming. They have to fit snugly, neither too small or too tight and have the pairs be identical for that to happen. Measuring carefully of course is important, however my Byrnes disc sander makes fine tuning these possible. Thank you Jim Byrnes.

I also added carlings to the quarterdeck per the templates. I used a laser gauge to re-establish the center line then transferred measurements from the templates to the beams.



And with that Chapter 8 is complete (the waist cannons and elm tree pumps are just placed for the photos). Please excuse the low quality photos and pitiful backdrop. I need to create a separate photo studio someplace someday.
 
Thank you as always for stopping by, your likes and comments are appreciated. Now the puppy needs attention.
 

Thanks for the comment.
 
I ran every plank I used on the hull and deck through it to ensure a consistent thickness an a number of other times as well. It’s the tool I never knew I needed until I got one and not sure how I did without it now that I have it.  

Thank you Allan, I’m still experimenting with the lines as well as a partially framed version. Materials are hard to obtain right now. 

Just a little bit of work today to start chapter 4.
 
I actually did forget to add something for chapter 3 so I just made it the first thing in this new chapter.  That was the anchor lining.  Its pretty straight forward.  Each strake of the anchor lining is laser cut although it may not line up perfectly with everyone's planking on individual models.  You guys may make some planks narrower or taper them less up there.  But its better to have them I suppose and if folks have to they can easily make them from scratch.
 

Then starts the stern details...
 
First up was to scratch some molding for the lowest one just above the square tuck.   You guys have done this before.   1/8" x 1/32" strip of boxwood scraped.
 
Then the frieze was cut out and glued on.   The darker one of course to match the friezes on the side of the hull.
 

Then the upper molding above the frieze was added.  It was done in two layer.  The first is laser cut for you on a curve to match the curve of the transom.  There are registration marks to help center it etched onto the FORWARD side of the molding.  This is the side that gets glued to the transom.   The AFT side of this strip need to be sanded with an angle along its entire length.   This helps establish the correct angles of the second layer which we will add later.  The laser cut piece on the bottom is a non sanded example just to show the laser etched lines that help you center it.   The ends will hang over on both sides of the hull quite a bit.  That is by design.   But you can see the other example on top which has been sanded along its entire length on an angle,  basically making it triangular in profile or wedge shaped.   This can be glued on the model once completed.
 

 
Thats when you can scrape another length of 1/8" x 1/16" boxwood strip which can be glued on top of it.   Its just a cheat to help establish the correct angles of this complex piece of molding.
 
Then the sides are completed and trimmed which is a boring long process I wont bother posting here...bit in the end you get this below.   You can see how it extends beyond the side to create a little platform.  This is for the standing figure.   
 

 
Its not time to glue these figures on permanently yet....but I did want to do a test to check its size and fit and placement.  I removed them right after.  Note how the figures follow the angle of the transom when viewed from the side of the hull.  The figure was designed to look like it was stepping forward and leaning.  This is important for  the look of the model.   They face almost outward from the side so the front of the torso almost faces port and starboard.   Although there is a slight turn aft as well.   One foot also slightly hangs over the molding which is correct but maybe not this much once I actually glue them on permanently.
 




 
Thats it for now but a little painting is next up so I can continue work on the stern.  There are the typical columns and such as well as the carvings above the windows.
 
Chuck
 
 

I redid the columns, I did not like and added small friezes:
 

Internal Bulwark planking completed, now to pack her up and get ready for the move.