Trussben

Hi,
 
I will be starting my second scratch build and I chose HMS Pegasus 1776, Swan Class sloop, using the plans from Admiralty models and all four volumes of the TFFM books by David & Greg. Also a full set of plans was bought from NMM and the wood package from Hobbymill in Swiss Pear wood with some highlighting in Boxwood.
I intend to leave her mainly in frame with a small amount of external planking - maybe from wales up, and will be using fully chocked joints and correct framing using the Disposition of frames plan. Internally I'm thinking of only framing Upper Decks with some planking, possibly the lower deck but just framing. Depending on how I feel when I get to that point will be the decision on Rigging her.
 
I include pictures of the main keel parts completed, halving joints were used and cut on the JimSaw, the forward keel piece with the boxing joint was cut from larger stock on the scrollsaw and the joint was chiseled out with care.
 
This will be slow starting as I am in the middle of rebuilding my workshop and I am also going to be working on my Confederacy when I need a rest from Pegasus.
 
Here begins another journey.
 
ben

Thanks Chuck.
 
Albert - I got the plans from Admiraltymodels.com and the TFFM books from Seawatch books, the other plans were from the National Maritime Meusem in Grenwich.
For some of the parts I have scanned in the plans to acad 2006 so I can manipulate and print out specific parts as I need to.
 
Ben

Great looking project Ben.  I will be following along with much interest and so far you are doing a fantastic job of it!!!

Ok , I accept the challenge Mr Druxey......... 
 
So first I need a plan to work from. Based on what I found researching the hearth I drafted this, no grill on the opposite side I guess as the hearth stands agains a bulkhead. Comments more than welcome!
 

 
Now how about making it from real bricks.... First a little testing with dummy wooden bricks to see if this could work. 
 

 
Woodglue tinted with pigment to give a mortar look. Not quite satisfied with that its to thin to make a real layer... need to think about this, maybe thin strips of paper to make the spacing between the bricks first..
 

 
This could work so I ordered some ceramic bricks from a modelshop, now all you guys have to do is wait until they arrive....
 
Remco

Hi,
 
I will be starting my second scratch build and I chose HMS Pegasus 1776, Swan Class sloop, using the plans from Admiralty models and all four volumes of the TFFM books by David & Greg. Also a full set of plans was bought from NMM and the wood package from Hobbymill in Swiss Pear wood with some highlighting in Boxwood.
I intend to leave her mainly in frame with a small amount of external planking - maybe from wales up, and will be using fully chocked joints and correct framing using the Disposition of frames plan. Internally I'm thinking of only framing Upper Decks with some planking, possibly the lower deck but just framing. Depending on how I feel when I get to that point will be the decision on Rigging her.
 
I include pictures of the main keel parts completed, halving joints were used and cut on the JimSaw, the forward keel piece with the boxing joint was cut from larger stock on the scrollsaw and the joint was chiseled out with care.
 
This will be slow starting as I am in the middle of rebuilding my workshop and I am also going to be working on my Confederacy when I need a rest from Pegasus.
 
Here begins another journey.
 
ben

Hi,
 
I will be starting my second scratch build and I chose HMS Pegasus 1776, Swan Class sloop, using the plans from Admiralty models and all four volumes of the TFFM books by David & Greg. Also a full set of plans was bought from NMM and the wood package from Hobbymill in Swiss Pear wood with some highlighting in Boxwood.
I intend to leave her mainly in frame with a small amount of external planking - maybe from wales up, and will be using fully chocked joints and correct framing using the Disposition of frames plan. Internally I'm thinking of only framing Upper Decks with some planking, possibly the lower deck but just framing. Depending on how I feel when I get to that point will be the decision on Rigging her.
 
I include pictures of the main keel parts completed, halving joints were used and cut on the JimSaw, the forward keel piece with the boxing joint was cut from larger stock on the scrollsaw and the joint was chiseled out with care.
 
This will be slow starting as I am in the middle of rebuilding my workshop and I am also going to be working on my Confederacy when I need a rest from Pegasus.
 
Here begins another journey.
 
ben

Hi,
 
I will be starting my second scratch build and I chose HMS Pegasus 1776, Swan Class sloop, using the plans from Admiralty models and all four volumes of the TFFM books by David & Greg. Also a full set of plans was bought from NMM and the wood package from Hobbymill in Swiss Pear wood with some highlighting in Boxwood.
I intend to leave her mainly in frame with a small amount of external planking - maybe from wales up, and will be using fully chocked joints and correct framing using the Disposition of frames plan. Internally I'm thinking of only framing Upper Decks with some planking, possibly the lower deck but just framing. Depending on how I feel when I get to that point will be the decision on Rigging her.
 
I include pictures of the main keel parts completed, halving joints were used and cut on the JimSaw, the forward keel piece with the boxing joint was cut from larger stock on the scrollsaw and the joint was chiseled out with care.
 
This will be slow starting as I am in the middle of rebuilding my workshop and I am also going to be working on my Confederacy when I need a rest from Pegasus.
 
Here begins another journey.
 
ben

And Druxey drops the challenge on Remco again, this should be great to watch!!

Thank you for your nice words.
 
Building time comparisons: previously built  a 74 gun ship at 1/48 and 1/24. It took the same time to build each one, so size is just a matter of space.
 
To have some space you must take some time to think where to store your tools and you need many drawers. By example,recently I regrouped the little tools.
 
in a home made old school chest with 16 drawers, For this matter square feet is important not volume, meaning  many 1 inch high drawers. Just for this chest, if you put all the drawers  together, you get 41 square feet. Before that,  all these little tools were stored in many different places.
 
I do not do this professionnally, I just do it because I like it.
  

Not that I wish to influence you in any way, Remco, but a) a brick hearth would look really interesting and different and  I'm sure you could make a superb one. (He walks away, whistling nonchalantly…)

Hi,
 
I will be starting my second scratch build and I chose HMS Pegasus 1776, Swan Class sloop, using the plans from Admiralty models and all four volumes of the TFFM books by David & Greg. Also a full set of plans was bought from NMM and the wood package from Hobbymill in Swiss Pear wood with some highlighting in Boxwood.
I intend to leave her mainly in frame with a small amount of external planking - maybe from wales up, and will be using fully chocked joints and correct framing using the Disposition of frames plan. Internally I'm thinking of only framing Upper Decks with some planking, possibly the lower deck but just framing. Depending on how I feel when I get to that point will be the decision on Rigging her.
 
I include pictures of the main keel parts completed, halving joints were used and cut on the JimSaw, the forward keel piece with the boxing joint was cut from larger stock on the scrollsaw and the joint was chiseled out with care.
 
This will be slow starting as I am in the middle of rebuilding my workshop and I am also going to be working on my Confederacy when I need a rest from Pegasus.
 
Here begins another journey.
 
ben

The only power tools I have are an old Dremel and a pencil sander.  Never really got into that aspect and at my age I'd be dead before I ever learned how to use them properly.  My wife of over 40 years is convinced 'there is something wrong with you' 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 33 – Aft Keelson/Deadwood
 
In the first picture a section of upper keelson tier is being glued to the lower tier.
 

 
I have been using pins with small wood blocks as opposed to clamps when gluing pieces like this.  It is working well, but it is important to size the blocks (or drill the holes) accurately so just enough pin head has to be driven into the wood.  Too much and the pin will bend or be hard to remove.  Not enough and the piece will not be secured.
 
The next picture shows some of the lower keelson pieces glued in place.
 

 
The frame cross spalls are being removed as this works proceeds.  With the lower keelson glued and bolted to through the frames into the keel, the  hull frames are quite secure and no longer need them.
 
The next picture shows the fitting of the last keelson section.
 

 
The last step in fitting these last pieces is to carefully trim the aft ends of the slightly over sized piece for a neat fit against the sternpost knee.  All of the scarph joints were cut before either adjacent piece was installed.  The next picture shows the final fit.
 

 
As I mentioned earlier, the keelson in these long clippers was the main longitudinal member and so it was installed in a straight line from stem to stern, with the deadwood at each end built up on top of it.
 
The next picture shows the first two deadwood sections cut out and and set in place between the keelson and the inner post.
 

 
Once these have been roughly fit, the patterns are removed for final trimming as shown below.
 

 
The last picture shows an upper piece ready for gluing.
 

 
Glue is placed in the gap and the pins driven down for a tight joint fit.  There is still one section above this – in two pieces – that will form the curved top of the deadwood.  All of the sections are also later secured with epoxied copper bolts into the sections below and the inner post. 
 
 
Ed

Happy New Year to all of you!
 
Hi Grant, Like I’ll have any issues wanting to get more accessories! OK I’ve been looking at the 
three and four jaw chucks and I realize that I will eventually need both types. The one thing I am
unsure about is if the self centering chucks are better than the regular jaws chucks. From what
I’ve read self centering is nice and handy but the independent jaws allow for more “accuracy”.
What types do you use?
 
Hi Ben, Thanks for stopping by. As I said above I will get a 4 jaw chuck just not sure which type
yet. You know you don’t have to wait. We can take that plunge together!
 
OK onto the fun stuff.
 
Here is the starboard side with all the assorted ring bolts in place. I made them from some 20 gauge
wire I had on hand.
 

 
I also figured I don’t need cannon barrels to make the carriages so I started on them. They are
made from swiss pear. I made two just in case I decided to add a second cannon. I figured it was
easier to make them together instead of having to go back and make a second one.
 
 

 

 

 

 

Will be watching you and this build Sjors, it's been brewing for a while and I'm sure you will do a great job.
 
Ben

Looks perfect to me Augie, I can't see any sheen in the paintwork, did you try buffing the paintwork with a rag, that gave me a really flat effect when mine were a bit shiny.
 
Happy new year, and yes, I will be picking back up with my build in a couple of weeks

Agree with Wacko, I don't believe we have seen anybody with this build and it would be great to see lots more if you don't mind being the first!
 
Ben

Hi Ir3,
 
Glad to see that you are using a longer keel clamp, the hull is so long on this kit that she is Very prone to warping, it's happened to a few people so be aware, every now and again take her out and check that your keel is perfectly strait, but whatever you do don't leave her out of the clamp for long until all the port sills/lintels and upper hull planking is complete, this way there is almost no chance of it warping.
 
Ben

Agree with Wacko, I don't believe we have seen anybody with this build and it would be great to see lots more if you don't mind being the first!
 
Ben

Hi ir3,
 
If you are going to use boxwood you shouldn't have to stain it at all, I used boxwood for some parts and the color matched the stained 30/70 golden oak basswood very well, but do some testing before you commit it to your model.
As for staining basswood you have to be very careful not to go too dark as it causes a blotchy effect, that's what I have found anyway and believe me I've done quite a few experiments with different stains, I even tried a ebony stain for the wales but it just didn't take it well and I ended up painting them.
Please think of doing updates as you go, it's great for us people watching and will help somebody else doing the build in the future - I just love to see progress like that and how different people tackle the problems that arise.
 
Ben

Hi ir3,
 
If you are going to use boxwood you shouldn't have to stain it at all, I used boxwood for some parts and the color matched the stained 30/70 golden oak basswood very well, but do some testing before you commit it to your model.
As for staining basswood you have to be very careful not to go too dark as it causes a blotchy effect, that's what I have found anyway and believe me I've done quite a few experiments with different stains, I even tried a ebony stain for the wales but it just didn't take it well and I ended up painting them.
Please think of doing updates as you go, it's great for us people watching and will help somebody else doing the build in the future - I just love to see progress like that and how different people tackle the problems that arise.
 
Ben

Hey Augie, 30% golden oak for the upper works is what I used and it will make a contrast with un stained lower planking, you won't really see it until you totally complete the lower planking.
Look forward to seeing your progress next year, I hope to start modeling again in January when I finish rebuilding the workshop.
 
Ben

Awesome Gary, I second or third the idea of leaving that planking a while, it will darken in time just like holly does I'm sure.
Can't wait to see more of your beautiful work.
 
Ben

Actually Popeye, the basswood isn't really good.  I need to dress the edges by hand as a lot looks like it was cut with an ax.  Compared to Jeff's material that I have for another purpose it's night and day.  But to replace it all I'd need to hit the lottery.

Just time for the last pre-Christmas update as we hit 250 hours into the build.
 
Sanding of the upper hull has been completed and the second layer of the channel wales added.  The hull has been stained after a coat of Minwax Pre-stain.  For this portion of the hull, I've used 30% Golden Oak.  As the intention is to have the upper hull much darker than the lower portion, a second coat of stain will be applied later (after treenailing).
 

 
Before we get to treenailing, the second layer of the main wales will be added and painted  ...  hopefully in time to ring in the New Year!
 
The very best of the Holidays to all.  Be happy, stay healthy and ENJOY!