Overworked724

I truly hope they give you some great pics of it standing in it's final resting place!  

Thank you Keith!! 😊 And thanks for all the likes!! 
 
I didn't realize that the deck details chapters had been split into the aft and forward parts of the ship, so I totally missed that I had to drill the anchor holes prior to gluing the gratings 😅. Glad I could still do this with them glued, but eventually the gratings popped out when drilling the holes so it made life easier (only used a couple drops of glue on the gratings if I had to remove them if needed 😁) 
 
So, holes were drilled, painted, and gratings stuck back on: 


All shot racks were also completed and glued to the deck. To align the cannon balls in a straight line took some getting used to. Basically, I dry fitted them on the shotrack, made a note on which ones were out of place with a tiny arrow on the wood to which direction they should be, and sanded with a round needle file accordingly. This ensured I ended up with somewhat of a straight line. 

Outstanding, Robin. 👍🏽⛵️ Such a clean and crisp build. 

Thanks to Justin,
Even though I used a wide angle lens for the photo, I agreed with Justin that something was off in the gun sills (starboard).  They just didn't look like a smooth transition between ports.  So I went back and researched them, found a few that were off, and fixed them by removing the original sill and replacing them.  Not too many, 4 or 5, and not very much.  However, when you multiplied the small errors across the hull, they created other issues.  Here are the results of repair/replacement with the wide angle lens, and the top sills in place, it is much smoother.   I might do the bow port, but am not sure if it is that far off.
 
 
 

Wow!  She turned out nice.  Hey...stain away!  I'm sure it was worth it to see a nice planking job completed and clean.  Nice work!

Yes...   Ive been plugging away.   School has started up and with COVID the kids are homeschooling, meanwhile Im also still working from home so things have been pretty hectic.   The last few stages of my build have gone well. Slowly, but well.    Its amazing just how much time some of these steps can take, and Ive just been chipping away as and when I get a few hours in the shipyard.  Also, I may be overdoing things a bit as my patience has grown and my ability to overlook flaws has diminished.  Just getting the painted gunports finished took awhile, as I really wanted them to be just so, and thus open many hours filing, filling, painting, and then in some cases going over them all again.  I really look forward to a time when I can get some of these things done right the first time.   The result is that my gunports are really squared up and have nice clean edges-which was the goal..

I then started in on planking in the sills and lintels.   This was a pleasurable enough task, but did take a LOT of time as notching in the along the ports took a lot of trial and error until I figured out a system and tool combination that provided consistent results.   I planked up both sides, sanded and then stained.   I was quite pleased with how it turned out.   The transom came out well, too.   I opted to deviate a bit here where the upper transom calls for a single piece of laser-cut 1/16th thick sheet cut out for framing in the ports.   I chose to simply plank it in as well.  This may well have been a mistake, we'll see when I get there. 


Then began the lower hull planking saga.   I think overall Im getting closer to doing it right, and farther from doing it wrong - BUT there are still a lot of problems...   I mean, its better than I was expecting it to be.   Ultimately this area is painted over and then coppered so Im not overly upset, and Im glad Im only gonna need a tiny bit of filler at the stern.   I used a combination of tapering, tick marks, and edge-bending, with the last plank on both sides needing to a be spiling job from a piece of sheet I had laying around.  

I also had a bit of trouble at the transom where the planks bend upward to meet the transom and stern post. I needed a bit more support to get things to lay down properly and so had to improvise some filler and an additional plank.  
 

Of course that was not the only improvising that was required - meet the rubber-band/post clamping jig.   

Some other planking shots and my edge-bending jig:

And here is where I am today:  

Yes, I stained it.   Why?  I have no idea.   I just felt compelled, and yes I am still going to paint it black per the instructions.   Next I need to add the second layer of wales just under the ports, and move onto the transom.   Anyway...   its coming along.   As for the trunnels I agonized over in an earlier post, I decided to forgo them completely.   I think at this scale they'll be a detail that will detract rather than provide to the overall piece.  Thanks for watching!
 
 
 

The Sanding Phase:  ...or phases...  😄
 
After sanding the gunport sills on the starboard, it became obvious that I needed more than just one or two sanding sticks.  So I ordered paint stirring sticks, emory board sanding stick types, and Dremel barrel sanding bits.  I am still looking for Dremel sanding disks for the hard to get places, but I have a pretty good start.  I have yet to sand the deck side of the sills, but that will be when I get both sills and tops in place.  Starting on the gunport tops now.. 15/32" opening.
 

Still, I still have the opportunity to recheck it again.  I do think that some sills are angled especially near the stern and bow.  If I understand it correctly, it is because the carronades run parallel to the deck.  This means they are not level forward/aft, only port to starboard because of the angle of the deck.  However, I will check it all now rather than later.    
 
I think I am going to try and level a couple of the sills somehow.  On one, I think sanding will work.  On another, I might add a shim across the top and sand clean.  I don’t think that I need to remove them.  I have the top row on now, and will add a picture.  I used a block that is 15/32” high that should have carried any error to the top making it easier to tell.

Well...I couldn't help myself.  Had to continue on with my train of thought on the elevations screws and elevation handle of the carronades to see if my idea worked and it did.
 
Took an 18G dispensing needle and made a 'tree nail' corer like I did before.  Put it in my drill press (with the drill OFF) and pressed out some larger gauge wooden tree nails.  The cedar wood is pretty nice for this...the nails come out very clean!
 

 
After cutting the bottom off the wooden nails stack and poking them out, I found the hole for the elevation screw on the 3D printed cannon was slightly small.  So I opened them up a bit wider with a #64 drill bit and they slide in perfectly with a small bit of 'wiggle'.
 

 
Used my little 90 degree cross drill jig to make a hole of the side of the wooden dowel I'll use for the elevation screw.  In this case, the wooden dowel size was a #64 drill bit, and the cross hole which will hold the wire simulating the elevation handle is a #77 bit. 
 

 
Drill my hole in the dowel...
 

 
And then slid in a little chunk of 0.4mm black wire as a handle...seized it in with a tiny spot of CA and added to each end of the handle.  
 

 
I think it's worth noting that the 3D printed carronade with sled did not have any detail related to an elevation handle on the elevation screw.  So...I'm going to call this a win...and move on!
 

I'll take that compliment, but learning a lot from your techniques.
Carry on!

Thanks for the compliment, Pat. Means a lot coming from someone with your skill and uncanny ability to work out processes.
 
Metal working presents new skill set for me to learn. Not to mention the investment of some new tools.
 
 

Status Update:   Sanding........

That is a tough call.  If you dont get a response in your build log you may want
to reach out to some folks by PM and and ask them.  This is something we have been trying to improve but you must understand that with so many build logs.
 
Best to just ask one question at a time and not write really long posts.  Posing short questions are more likely to get a response
 
For me I know its tough to read every build log.  
 
Probably the most important thing is to mingle and also read, post and participate in the logs of others beyond just your own.  Folks are more likely to take an interest in you and reach out if you do the same.  A quick look at your history reveals that you only post in your own topics and never in those for others. 
 
This is a huge part of the issue.  I am sure it would be easier to get a response if you pose the question or have participated in the logs of others.  Especially those that are building the same kit or similar.  This is is best way to create a mentoring cross exchange of ideas.    
 
its not a one way street on any forum where one should expect members to flock to them without ever having taken the time to do the same on other members projects and topics.   As if it was a paid class or workshop.  This is just a community of mode builders where folks are having fun and making friends.  No paid teachers here.  
 
 
I hope this helps....If a member wont reach out to others they can hardly expect to get any traction and there is nothing any staff member can do to fix that!
 
So please try to participate in the logs and topics that are not your own as well.  Even if its to just say that others are doing a good job.  Probably the best advice I can give you.  That effort will pay off in multiples. 
 
These are just a few things I can suggest to you.  Ask yourself when was the last time you posted and took an interest in other projects outside of your own.  Just to say good work or ask how they are doing? We dont have paid mentors and those folks are very busy.  They have a many opportunities to help others but are most likely choosing to spend their time in logs where those folks also have shown an interest in their work.
 
Chuck
 
 

Very true, but you also post words of encouragement and just friendly comments about other folks progress as well.  
 
That is the key!!! And the point I was trying to emphasize.  The easiest way to get feedback and engagement is to get out of the “bubble” of your own build logs and topics.  Show an interest in others and others will show an interest in you.  Its pretty simple really.
 
I can not emphasize it enough.🥰  My mamma always said....show a little love and you will get a little love.  Show a lotta love and....
 

Well...I couldn't help myself.  Had to continue on with my train of thought on the elevations screws and elevation handle of the carronades to see if my idea worked and it did.
 
Took an 18G dispensing needle and made a 'tree nail' corer like I did before.  Put it in my drill press (with the drill OFF) and pressed out some larger gauge wooden tree nails.  The cedar wood is pretty nice for this...the nails come out very clean!
 

 
After cutting the bottom off the wooden nails stack and poking them out, I found the hole for the elevation screw on the 3D printed cannon was slightly small.  So I opened them up a bit wider with a #64 drill bit and they slide in perfectly with a small bit of 'wiggle'.
 

 
Used my little 90 degree cross drill jig to make a hole of the side of the wooden dowel I'll use for the elevation screw.  In this case, the wooden dowel size was a #64 drill bit, and the cross hole which will hold the wire simulating the elevation handle is a #77 bit. 
 

 
Drill my hole in the dowel...
 

 
And then slid in a little chunk of 0.4mm black wire as a handle...seized it in with a tiny spot of CA and added to each end of the handle.  
 

 
I think it's worth noting that the 3D printed carronade with sled did not have any detail related to an elevation handle on the elevation screw.  So...I'm going to call this a win...and move on!
 

Well...I couldn't help myself.  Had to continue on with my train of thought on the elevations screws and elevation handle of the carronades to see if my idea worked and it did.
 
Took an 18G dispensing needle and made a 'tree nail' corer like I did before.  Put it in my drill press (with the drill OFF) and pressed out some larger gauge wooden tree nails.  The cedar wood is pretty nice for this...the nails come out very clean!
 

 
After cutting the bottom off the wooden nails stack and poking them out, I found the hole for the elevation screw on the 3D printed cannon was slightly small.  So I opened them up a bit wider with a #64 drill bit and they slide in perfectly with a small bit of 'wiggle'.
 

 
Used my little 90 degree cross drill jig to make a hole of the side of the wooden dowel I'll use for the elevation screw.  In this case, the wooden dowel size was a #64 drill bit, and the cross hole which will hold the wire simulating the elevation handle is a #77 bit. 
 

 
Drill my hole in the dowel...
 

 
And then slid in a little chunk of 0.4mm black wire as a handle...seized it in with a tiny spot of CA and added to each end of the handle.  
 

 
I think it's worth noting that the 3D printed carronade with sled did not have any detail related to an elevation handle on the elevation screw.  So...I'm going to call this a win...and move on!
 

Well...I couldn't help myself.  Had to continue on with my train of thought on the elevations screws and elevation handle of the carronades to see if my idea worked and it did.
 
Took an 18G dispensing needle and made a 'tree nail' corer like I did before.  Put it in my drill press (with the drill OFF) and pressed out some larger gauge wooden tree nails.  The cedar wood is pretty nice for this...the nails come out very clean!
 

 
After cutting the bottom off the wooden nails stack and poking them out, I found the hole for the elevation screw on the 3D printed cannon was slightly small.  So I opened them up a bit wider with a #64 drill bit and they slide in perfectly with a small bit of 'wiggle'.
 

 
Used my little 90 degree cross drill jig to make a hole of the side of the wooden dowel I'll use for the elevation screw.  In this case, the wooden dowel size was a #64 drill bit, and the cross hole which will hold the wire simulating the elevation handle is a #77 bit. 
 

 
Drill my hole in the dowel...
 

 
And then slid in a little chunk of 0.4mm black wire as a handle...seized it in with a tiny spot of CA and added to each end of the handle.  
 

 
I think it's worth noting that the 3D printed carronade with sled did not have any detail related to an elevation handle on the elevation screw.  So...I'm going to call this a win...and move on!
 

Well...I couldn't help myself.  Had to continue on with my train of thought on the elevations screws and elevation handle of the carronades to see if my idea worked and it did.
 
Took an 18G dispensing needle and made a 'tree nail' corer like I did before.  Put it in my drill press (with the drill OFF) and pressed out some larger gauge wooden tree nails.  The cedar wood is pretty nice for this...the nails come out very clean!
 

 
After cutting the bottom off the wooden nails stack and poking them out, I found the hole for the elevation screw on the 3D printed cannon was slightly small.  So I opened them up a bit wider with a #64 drill bit and they slide in perfectly with a small bit of 'wiggle'.
 

 
Used my little 90 degree cross drill jig to make a hole of the side of the wooden dowel I'll use for the elevation screw.  In this case, the wooden dowel size was a #64 drill bit, and the cross hole which will hold the wire simulating the elevation handle is a #77 bit. 
 

 
Drill my hole in the dowel...
 

 
And then slid in a little chunk of 0.4mm black wire as a handle...seized it in with a tiny spot of CA and added to each end of the handle.  
 

 
I think it's worth noting that the 3D printed carronade with sled did not have any detail related to an elevation handle on the elevation screw.  So...I'm going to call this a win...and move on!
 

A bit of progress and a bit of a disappointment. Before I painted the transom interior (red) or exterior (black below trim pieces) I wanted to drill out the rudder hole.  It’s a bit of a dicey activity for my way of thinking as you have no “redos”.
 

 

 
I can say I did a decent job of drilling out the rudder hole without causing damage...but...I can see the rudder hole is a bit offset by about 2mm when viewed from the bow...but it is centered between the stern gun ports, meaning the port side transom  extends out a bit wider than the starboard. 

There’s no fixing the error...just going to build around it and hope the visual noise of rigging and fixtures overwhelms the assymetry.
 
Sigh....
 

Awesome job, definite win!

Well...I couldn't help myself.  Had to continue on with my train of thought on the elevations screws and elevation handle of the carronades to see if my idea worked and it did.
 
Took an 18G dispensing needle and made a 'tree nail' corer like I did before.  Put it in my drill press (with the drill OFF) and pressed out some larger gauge wooden tree nails.  The cedar wood is pretty nice for this...the nails come out very clean!
 

 
After cutting the bottom off the wooden nails stack and poking them out, I found the hole for the elevation screw on the 3D printed cannon was slightly small.  So I opened them up a bit wider with a #64 drill bit and they slide in perfectly with a small bit of 'wiggle'.
 

 
Used my little 90 degree cross drill jig to make a hole of the side of the wooden dowel I'll use for the elevation screw.  In this case, the wooden dowel size was a #64 drill bit, and the cross hole which will hold the wire simulating the elevation handle is a #77 bit. 
 

 
Drill my hole in the dowel...
 

 
And then slid in a little chunk of 0.4mm black wire as a handle...seized it in with a tiny spot of CA and added to each end of the handle.  
 

 
I think it's worth noting that the 3D printed carronade with sled did not have any detail related to an elevation handle on the elevation screw.  So...I'm going to call this a win...and move on!
 

Well...I couldn't help myself.  Had to continue on with my train of thought on the elevations screws and elevation handle of the carronades to see if my idea worked and it did.
 
Took an 18G dispensing needle and made a 'tree nail' corer like I did before.  Put it in my drill press (with the drill OFF) and pressed out some larger gauge wooden tree nails.  The cedar wood is pretty nice for this...the nails come out very clean!
 

 
After cutting the bottom off the wooden nails stack and poking them out, I found the hole for the elevation screw on the 3D printed cannon was slightly small.  So I opened them up a bit wider with a #64 drill bit and they slide in perfectly with a small bit of 'wiggle'.
 

 
Used my little 90 degree cross drill jig to make a hole of the side of the wooden dowel I'll use for the elevation screw.  In this case, the wooden dowel size was a #64 drill bit, and the cross hole which will hold the wire simulating the elevation handle is a #77 bit. 
 

 
Drill my hole in the dowel...
 

 
And then slid in a little chunk of 0.4mm black wire as a handle...seized it in with a tiny spot of CA and added to each end of the handle.  
 

 
I think it's worth noting that the 3D printed carronade with sled did not have any detail related to an elevation handle on the elevation screw.  So...I'm going to call this a win...and move on!
 

And now for something fun but ridiculous.  I finished my interior bulkhead sanding (at least as best I can possibly do...) but took a slight detour back to the carronades.  I was wrestling with how I would create the elevation screw handle on the carronade elevation screws.  This would be a piece of wire inserted into the elevation screw (wooden dowel/toothpick/whatever).  The probelm - these things are fricking TINY!  
 
I'm not handy, nor a carpenter, nor a miniature modeler...so this was a bit outside my realm.  It occurred to me I can make the reproducible cedar trunnels/nails of exact width...so why not figure a simple way to drill a hole in the tiny dowel.  
 
My solution.  Use a small scrap piece of cherry wood (hard wood) as a drilling guide.  Make some #80 holes at 90 degree angles to each other so the holes intersect.  The smaller holes can be widened easier with larger drill bits as needed.
 

 
I made a #72 and #80 drill bit size cross angle...and inserted my larger cedar nails (made to fit a #75 drill bit hole).  Inserted the cedar trunnel into the guide hole (marked #72) - and then drilled by hand into the guide hole marked '80' with my rotary tool fit with a #80 drill bit.
 

 
And it worked like a charm...the trunnels don't move, and can be easily drilled at 90 degrees for easy insertion of the wire 'handle'.  
 

 
And just for scale...these things are ridiculous tiny!!
 

 

 
Just a fun aside!  It's probably been done by others on the forums, but it was a nice problem to solve on my own and see it work!
 

And now for something fun but ridiculous.  I finished my interior bulkhead sanding (at least as best I can possibly do...) but took a slight detour back to the carronades.  I was wrestling with how I would create the elevation screw handle on the carronade elevation screws.  This would be a piece of wire inserted into the elevation screw (wooden dowel/toothpick/whatever).  The probelm - these things are fricking TINY!  
 
I'm not handy, nor a carpenter, nor a miniature modeler...so this was a bit outside my realm.  It occurred to me I can make the reproducible cedar trunnels/nails of exact width...so why not figure a simple way to drill a hole in the tiny dowel.  
 
My solution.  Use a small scrap piece of cherry wood (hard wood) as a drilling guide.  Make some #80 holes at 90 degree angles to each other so the holes intersect.  The smaller holes can be widened easier with larger drill bits as needed.
 

 
I made a #72 and #80 drill bit size cross angle...and inserted my larger cedar nails (made to fit a #75 drill bit hole).  Inserted the cedar trunnel into the guide hole (marked #72) - and then drilled by hand into the guide hole marked '80' with my rotary tool fit with a #80 drill bit.
 

 
And it worked like a charm...the trunnels don't move, and can be easily drilled at 90 degrees for easy insertion of the wire 'handle'.  
 

 
And just for scale...these things are ridiculous tiny!!
 

 

 
Just a fun aside!  It's probably been done by others on the forums, but it was a nice problem to solve on my own and see it work!