gjdale

Just a thought Chuck - could you fill/count packages by weight rather than counting individual items?

Thank you to everyone for the comments and the likes.
 
 Thank you to all those that joined in on the Google AI discussion. Think I'm gonna go the old/new school route.       https://www.britannica.com
 
 
 Scarier than the thoughts of AI dominating the world wide web was how easy the cylinder timber chain installation went, I expect that at any moment Lula is gonna completely unravel.    I've never had chain go on this effortlessly, I am amazed!   
 

 

 

 
 The list is down to handrails and weathering. 
 
 Thank you to everyone for the support and for following along.
 
  Keith

Last update of the day....the lower deck planking is now done, as are the ceiling planks on the starboard side. I ended up using 1 12" plank to round out the deck planking...it stands out a bit, but hopefully when the upper deck is done it will be a bit less noticeable. Bye for now
hamilton
 

Managed to install a single ceiling plank this morning and to mill the remaining strips for the lower deck planking. I will have to fudge the planking a little bit, as the space to be filled is not exactly equal to the number of 10" wide planks that will fit there - there is a roughly 2" space remaining, so I'm going to mill a couple of 11" strakes to compensate for this - hopefully the difference won't be too noticeable at this scale.
 
I'll also need to figure out the spirketing plank on the port side - this will require some spiling to fit against the curved waterway. I won't be fitting ceiling planks on the port side, in line with the overall concept of alternating the planking decks and hull) port and startboard. Externally, I'll plank the port side but not starboard below the wales, but I won't leave the frames exposed at all above the wales.
hamilton
 

After a longer-than-expected break, I managed to put some time in at the bench today, working on the lower deck planking. I realised that I had forgotten, when I installed the strakes around the mast partners and hatch, to file out a notch for the passage of the break pump shafts...so I lightly pried those pieces off and completed that step - truthfully, I broke one of the originals in this process and made a new one to replace it! I had milled a relatively small amount of 10" x 2" boxwood for the deck planks - only 7 strips total. So after installing the strakes around the hatch/partners, I had only 5 strakes. My plan is to lay only 3 strakes outboard of centre on the port side and full plank the starboard side - this alternates with the full planking of the inner hull on the port side and only partial planking there to starboard. I will also lay a binding strake along the inboard edge of the port side waterway - this will have to be spiled on the side laid against the waterway to account for the slight curvature on that side - noted above....
 
Quick question - were the lower deck planks trunnelled?
 
Hope you're all doing well - happy modelling and enjoy the photos.
hamilton

@albert
@SaltyScot
@Keith Black
Hello,
It's nice to see that there's still interest in my model after so long.
Thank you and everyone for the likes.
 
Continuation: Fore braces / Bras de misaine
Before installing the fore braces, I revisited my question regarding the attachment of the standing parts to the stays and tried to gather further information on this topic.
Ultimately, based on advice from colleagues in relevant forums, I came to the conclusion that a rolling hitch seems quite appropriate here. In French, this is called an amarrage à fouet.
Before attempting the model, I tried tying a knot on a piece of rope. The loose line was secured to the stay using seizing.
I find this solution plausible and will therefore implement it accordingly on the model.

 
In this context, there was still a need for clarification regarding the routing of the fore topsail braces, since, according to the monograph, their standing parts should also be attached to the mainstay, where the fore braces are also attached.

 
However, the original Paris model shows the routing of the fore topsail braces differently than in the monograph. The standing parts run upwards to the main topmast stay where they are tied, as shown in the following illustration.

 
The aforementioned routing of the topsail braces was obviously quite common at that time. It should also be noted that the ship models from around 1800 in the Musée de la Marine have split foremast braces, i.e., the running parts run downwards via blocks on the mainstay for mooring, and the standing parts are attached to the main topmast stay.
This is also how it is shown and described in the Harland. Therefore, I am once again following the Paris model and not the monograph.

 
To be continued...

 

Thank you, Phil.
 
 Thank you, Roel. I hope and pray your life is not at risk because of shortsightedness and greed by those that have authority over you.
 
 Companies would be run much differently if the director's children worked in those high risk areas.
 
 
Thank you to everyone for the comments and the likes. 
 
 
 Lula has her crew. There are eight crew members including Captain Bill.
 
 The boilerman can be seen at the front of the boiler and the lead deckhand is the person walking toward the bow on the starboard side. 

 
 The deckhand hanging on the grab handle is the youngest member of the crew. A lot of his foolishness is overlooked and forgiven because he is also the strongest and least fearful of any man onboard.  

 
The engineer and his assistant are replacing one of the seals on the hand pump that went wobbly. There are four deckhands including the lead deckhand. 

 

 
 Next on the list are the chain supports for the cylinder timbers. What jolly good fun awaits. 
 
 Thank you to each of you for your support and for following along.
 
  Keith
 
 

Post 78
Cutters 18’ and 22’
These are the new resin hulled version with Pearwood fittings.
Nicely formed with Lapstrake planking, detailed framing, mast steps, and rowlocks set-up for single banked rowing.
The colour scheme needs to be decided first, something that  co-ordinates with the main ship scheme.
For the outer hull colour I used Vallejo White/grey, and for the Gunwales Black/grey. I think this gives a more scale effect.
For the inner hull I used a combination of oche brown shade mixtures until I got a look I liked. I then applied a wash of Dark Brown.

4297a
This picked up the inner Lapstrake planking.
I applied the same scheme to both cutters.
The Pearwood fittings I left bright just treated with w-o-p.
 
22’ Cutter
Inserting the Pearwood fittings, takes a little care, they are quite delicate, particularly the stern sheets.
They are accurately cut  to fit around the  hull ribs  but light pressure only should be used to fit into place.
 I used spots of cyano.

4308a
One thing I did note ; there does not seem to be a laser cut thwart for the aftermost position. A minor issue as one is easily cut from the laser fret.
Adding detail
Adding the mast clamps to the thwarts is a small improvement, easily done using black card.

4301a
Using a  stick helps align the  thwart with the mast step.

4309a
I also like to add lifting rings to the keelson.

4317a
At this scale it is feasible to add the rudder hanging ironware to the Cutter stern. This comprises a long  pintle, and  Gudgeon ring. Fiddly, but it’s stuff I like to do.

4316a
This particular arrangement is designed for quick attachment/ removal of the rudder.
 
 
The set-up for rowing is three pairs of offset rowlocks which would suggest single banked rowing positions. The oar lengths would suggest  double banked rowing, so with this arrangement there would presumably be one rower per thwart, alternating port and starboard.
I’m not too keen on the provided oars for the 22’ cutter, the blade looks too short and paddle like for my taste.

4305a
The oar style supplied with Indy looks more the shape to my eye and fortunately I had some spares I could utilise.
 
Boat cradles are supplied (for the 18’ cutter) but will fit the 22’ cutter. If the larger cutter is to be stored on deck, the cradles need raising a little to allow the boat keel to clear the coamings. I added 2x2mm Pearwood strip to the bottom of the cradles.

4324a
I always find fitting cradles a tricky exercise, getting them central to the deck, square, and  correctly spaced to fit the hull. It would be easier to glue the hull to the cradles before fitting, but I prefer not to do that.

4325a

4327a

4328a
Nice to see that my scale figure sits perfectly in the sternsheets.

4331a

4332a
Some paintwork tidying is still required, but I’ll attend to that in conjunction with the 18’ Cutter
 
B.E.
18/05/2025
 
 

Here's a new set of photos of the prototype. Enjoy!
 
 

Pavel has sent me a new set of images, showing flags and sails. He says the kit release is imminent.
 
 

Of course you know what I would recommend for the ship's animal, don't you Keith!

While finishing up the hanging of the whale boats, I learned another new term - gripes.  And I'm not referring to all the complaining I was doing while tying off 2000 ratline knots. 😫   While perusing other Constitution build logs, I found out that a gripe is a leather strap (or cord of some kind) used to secure whale boats hanging from their davits.  
 
So I needed to find some very thin leather, preferably black, lying around the house.  The victim of my scavenger hunt turned out to be a black leather recliner I've had since maybe the Reagan administration.  I flipped it over and cut off several pieces of overlap from the stapling underneath. 

 
 
There was some white fuzzy stuff glued to the back which I sanded off.  I cut some small strips, but the leather was so thin the edges immediately curled.  Not good.  So I tried brushing a thin layer of CA glue on the backside and flattening it between a folded piece of wax paper while it cured.  It actually worked out perfecto!  The glue stiffened the strip enough to keep it from curling when cut, but it still had enough flexibility to wrap around the body of the whale boat.  Then I added some small rings to each end.
  
 
 
Here are a couple of pics of the whale boats hung and strapped in place.


 
 
 
 
    

Thank you, Lynn.
 
 Thank you, Ferrus. Smoking a pipe is very different than smoking cigarettes. I gave up the pipe because tobacco is the number one cause of cardiovascular disease.  It would be stupid of me to not quit.   
 
 Thank you, Keith. 
 
 Thank you, John.
 
 
 Thank you to everyone for your nice comments and the likes. 
 
 Another small item scratched of the list today. I got the fore lantern and light board made, painted, and installed.  
 
Next on the list is getting the crew shaped up and painted.  

 
Clear image of the bell frame.

 
Thank you to everyone for following along and for your support.
 
   Keith

Post 77
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part three
With new upper chain links made I can proceed with the fitting.

4266a
Each one was trial fitted to check the  drop before  pinning to the hull.

4265a
A tiresome business but the end result at least complies with the Adm./kit plans, rather than the less convincing look that would follow had I used all the provided parts as is.
 
Topmast and T’gallant Backstays
I won’t be rigging these but the channel deadeyes will be in place. The kit uses 5mm ø deadeyes for the lower shrouds and 3mm deadeyes for the Topmast and T’gallant backstays.
Steel indicates a thimble set-up for the T’gallant  Backstays but the ADm plan shows deadeyes in place.

4272a
I have opted to use 4mm deadeyes for the Topmasts, and 3mm for the T’gallants. Although not exactly to scale this reflects the reduction in size of the upper masts rigging line.

4271a
As with the shrouds I has to re-make the  upper chain link to bring the  lower link to the correct level.
These are tiny links which took a few attempts to get right, or replace those that just on completion pinged off into the ether.
An exercise in frustration.

4273a

4274a

4275a

4277a
I think a glass of Merlot is required before I tackle the Port side.
 
Cheers,🍷
 
B.E.
12/05/2025

@Desertanimal @clearway @Ferrus Manus @TBlack @LJP @FriedClams @BANYAN @lraymo @Canute Thank you Chris, Keith, Ferrus, Tom, LJP, Gary, Pat, Lynn, Ken, for your kind comments and thank you to everyone for your thoughts and prayers.  
 
 After what seems like a lengthy layoff, in the past couple of days I've been able to regain the rhythm of working on little Lula. Lula's main construction is done, now it's a matter of finishing up all the remaining small details. Three I just crossed off the list are the ship's bell, steam whistle, and grab handles attached to the pilothouse fore wall that aided in getting from the engine room deck to the boiler deck.  

 

 
 Thank you to all for your patience in regards to the disruptions of the past month. One last personal, it will be a week tonight that I've given up my pipe. I don't miss the nicotine but man, do I miss the ritual.
 
 May God bless each of you.
 
   Keith  

Post 76
Strops, chains, and plates. – Part two

004
As I noted in Post 73, if I use the deadeye sets as issued the Preventer plates are thrown too far down on the Wale. They should be as per the plan as above.

4226a
I have completed the lower mast Deadeye strop fixing using the replacement Resin Deadeyes.
 
Stropping the Deadeyes does inevitably mar the blackening of the strops, but a test of the resin deadeye in the blackening fluid has no adverse effect. Once fitted the combination is re- dipped in the blackening.
 
The usual approach would be to make up the sets on the model, Upper link attached to the Deadeye strop, followed by the Lower link, thro’ which the Preventer plate would be pinned.
The lower fixing of the Preventer plate should sit around half way down the wale, with the lower chain link sitting just above the wale top.
 
I found this is not the case, so a tricky job ensues, one that I don’t particularly relish.
My approach will be to use Brass wire (0.5mm ø) to represent the upper chain link. It would prove difficult to modify the kit link because of thicker sections at the top and bottom.

4237a
I first need to make a jig to form the links. There is an excellent ‘how to’ in Volume 11 of  The ffm BY David Antscherl.

4238a
In reality the lengths of the upper links vary to accommodate the increasing angles of the aftermost shrouds.
The jig allows the  size to be adjusted as required, altho’ on Harpy the effect is minimal.

4242a
Strictly speaking the links should be closed but without open slots along the Channel fronts to insert completed strop and chain units, it becomes tricky.

0017
This test  link shows the correct position of the Preventer Plate.

4253a
The link at 8mm in length is 3mm less than the provided kit link.
 
With the masts in place I firstly need to mark the line of the shrouds. The kit shrouds are of 1mm ø black line, but I will be using 0.88mm ø Syren rigging line, which is spot on for scale for the lower shrouds.
I find provided black kit line too stark for my taste and my approach is to use natural line dyed with Dark Jacobean oak wood stain to represent the standing rigging.

4249a
Kit line used to mark the positions of the lower Preventer Plate bolt.
I think I can now proceed.
 
 
B.E.
10/05/2025
 

Thanks to all for the interesting and educational discussion on flag direction above.  With that issue resolved, time to rig the davits and hang the whale boats.  The Bluejacket instructions do not address the davit rigging, so I used @xken's superb build log for guidance.  The first thing I did was run a line connecting the eyehooks on the top end of each davit (circled in red below).  I ran the line through a bullseye which is seized to another line that goes to the deck and is used to raise and lower the davits.  
 

 
 
The line that is seized to the bullseye (green arrow below) runs up thru a double block which is tied into the shrouds and then runs down to a lanyard that will tie into the empty eyehooks seen in the deck.  At the time, I did not install the lanyard.  I just tensioned the assembly with a small clamp.  I would add the lanyard and tighten everything up after hanging the whale boats. 

 
 
Time to hang the whale boats.  I was pretty much clueless as to how to do the small rigging between the end of the davit and the boat.  I knew I had to rig a line through the double block mortised into the end of the davit and the double block hooked to the end of the whale boat, but I couldn't figure out how to do it.  Shout out to Henry (a.k.a. @popeye2sea) for coming to the rescue.  He sent me a sketch that cleared things up.  I post the sketch below in case anyone else is as clueless about the rigging as I was.
    
 
 
Here's the whale boat hung from the davits.

 
 
After that, I circled back to install the lanyards on the deck and tighten everything up.  The working end of the lanyard is tied off to the pinrail on the mizzen mast.

 
 
Here's a picture of the entire davit rigging with arrows highlighting the 3 separate lines required for the rigging assembly.

 
 

I finished the figurehead:
 










 

Seems like forever since I did any work on the Constitution.  But I got my Kenoshi-sen to a point where I'm comfortable I can meet my deadline with it, so now I can focus on getting the Constitution across the finish line.  I'm definitely on the home stretch here.
 
Next on the list was getting the US flags flying.  The original builder had mounted a small, paper flag on the bowsprit cap.  I had to remove it when I rebuilt the broken bowsprit, but now it's back in its original place waving proudly forward.  

 
 
 
Looking at a variety of finished Constitution models, I saw many that had a larger flag flying from a halyard rigging off the gaff.  I went to my favorite poaching box (Artesania Latina kit for the USS Constellation) and grabbed the flag from it.  I've poached so much stuff from that box that if I ever decide to build the ship, I will probably have to buy an entire new kit.  Or try and build it from scratch (YIKES!).  
 

 
 
I also found a beautiful piece of Patagonia rosewood that I'm going to use for the base.  I had a buddy of mine rout the edges and I applied a few coats of poly for the finish.

 
 
Next up is hanging the 3 whales boats from the davits.

Post 75
Masts (Part 2)
Mast Hoops
There are twelve iron hoops supporting the Main mast, alternating between under and over the Front Fish.
The Foremast has ten hoops but they don’t uniformly alternate, six sit above the front fish and four beneath.
There are no wooldings involved with the Harpy build.
 
The kit provides black card for the purpose of Hoop making and  a scale breadth of 1.5mm is indicated.
This agrees with the sizes given by Steel.
Breadth – 4” - 4½” breadth, ½” - ⅝” thick.
 
Whilst I often use  slices of  heat shrink tubing for hoops I will be using the card option which will better conform to the profile around cheeks and Fish.

4203a
I fit the hoops that fit beneath the Fish first, here on the Fore mast.

4208a
I use a template to mark the hoop positions down the mast.

4207a
Fitting the hoops is  a bit fiddly, care has to be taken to remove any glue  spread onto the mast.

4213a

4214a

4215a

4216a
I have left the hoops black as a contrast but in reality they would probably have been painted along with the masts by the early 19thcentury.
Bolsters
These are provided as short sections of 2x2mm square stock.
In my view they are a tad on the short side as a means of  protecting the shrouds, particularly if the shrouds are to be properly served.

4221a
I replaced the kit parts with quarter rounded 2x2.5mm  stuff. This also overhangs the trestletrees by a fraction as it should.
I’m leaving the masts for a while as my supplies of Resin deadeyes have arrived and I’m  keen to resolve the looming problem of over-long links, which has been on my mind since Post 73.
 
B.E.
08/05/2025
 

You are a very brave man B.E.! Good luck with that strategy.

I thought some of you would want to
see how I tested the viability and strength of the belaying pins.  I made a crude mock up which you see below.  This allowed me the opportunity to test in actual use various belaying pin iterations over and over again.  I must have tested so Many different resins and resin mixes until I found the correct mix of two that would be strong enough and look good.
 
There is no glue holding the pins in the rack and they are press fit.  There is also no glue on the rope.  This is the way I actually rig my models.  If a pin breaks you can easily remove it and insert another although I never came close to breaking one.  They will flex if you over tighten the line ridiculously.  But normal rigging tension works wonderfully.  
 
These are 1:48 scale belaying pins.  It actually is very encouraging and may also test 3/16” scale pins as these worked so well.
 

 

I loved the stories behind the "mystery lady" it helped take my mind off my current situation. 
 
 Speaking of current situation, I received the CT Scan test results today and it confirms the ultrasound results done on April 15th. I've yet to speak with the doctor's office but going over the CTS results with the aid of Google explaining medical terminology, in essence the aorta sac has enlarged above the stent and an endoleak has developed below the stent. I assume the endoleak is causing the sac enlargement. 
 
 There's probably two options, surgical intervention and medication (lower blood pressure medication but I don't have high blood pressure) and monitoring. From what Google tells me surgery for men my age (78) is a bit risky. If surgery is 50/50 and monitoring and medication is 50/50, that's gonna make for a hard decision. We'll see once I talk to someone other than Mr Google.
 
 
 I've pretty much done everything I can do around the house in preparation for whatever comes next so yesterday I started trying to make Lula's bell frame. 1.0 didn't go well, maybe I can find time in the morning to attempt 2.0?
 
 
 Thank you ever so much to everyone for your thoughts and prayers. My journey is blessed because you folks are part of it. Thank you again.
 
   Keith 

Fore and Main Masts. (Part 1)
I am working these as per the kit dimensions using 8mm Ramin dowel.
The trickiest part is forming the 5mm square mastheads from dowel.
I do this  by marking the square area on the dowel top, lining along for the required length, and filing using 120 grade sandpaper glued to a broad stick.
I gauge by eye with constant  measurement and square checks.

4138a
 I initially  pare down to around 5.5mm before checking with the cross trees. It is then a case of reduction by degrees whilst maintaining the square profile.

4142a
The sides of the stick are then sanded flat to accommodate the Cheeks.

4143a
I use Tamiya tape to define the  area to take the cheeks, again careful use of a broad sanding stick is all that is required with constant checking to ensure squareness.

4161a
The masts were coated with w-o-p, and I painted the Pearwood cheeks to better tone with the Ramin Masts. I then use a water based oche tinted wood dye to  even out the colour tone.
 
The laser cut Trestle trees in Pearwood slot together cleanly and firmly.

4164a
I very much like the Mast tops, beautifully cut and detailed, a joy to work with.
 
Regardless of mast rake the tops should be level to the waterline.

4176a

4179a

4183a

4188a
It seems to take me ages to ensure the Mast tops sit square and level, the final adjustments being made after gluing but before it sets.

4191a
Once the mast tops are firmly fixed, the  Bibs and  Front fish are added.
 
B.E.
06/05/2025
 

On April 26th, I attended the 42nd Annual Northeast Joint Clubs Conference and Show in New London, CT where I displayed my model of the Medway Longboat. There were over 50 models on display and and my model received the Jim Roberts Award in the judged competition. I am deeply honored to have received this award.
 
Here is a photo on the new Ships in Scale website with me on the right receiving the award from Tom Ruggiero of the Ship Model Society of New Jersey. Mike Ellison of Seawatch Books is on the left, holding the mic.
 

 
Here is a link to the full article on the Conference:  https://shipsinscale.com/2025/05/04/northeast-model-ship-enthusiasts-gather-for-joint-clubs-conference/