bartley

Post 45 Installation of the winch.
 
The actual winch was constructed some time ago (in Post 32) as a little scratch build:
 

 
  Here it is mounted on the deck
 

 
John

garthog,
 
I don't know the answer to this but the curve is very gentle, as you find out when you do it on a model.  Depending on the timber I suppose they may have edge bent them with the help of steam. They did also force trees to grow with bends in them but considering their woodworking skills they may have just cut them from a wider plank.
 
John

Warthog,
 
The main issue on deck planking was to avoid "pointed" planks because these would certainly leak. so methods were developed to produce a more right angled cut.  Prior to about 1850 the method was to curve the planks so that only a few on the outer edge needed any kind of special treatment.  The method was to used hooked scaph joints against the waterway as Glenn describes. 

 
When I look at these I feel there is still a degree of "pointiness".  A later method was  to use nibbing, where planks were parallel and cut into the waterway. 

This method was probably superior.
 
John

Post 45 Installation of the winch.
 
The actual winch was constructed some time ago (in Post 32) as a little scratch build:
 

 
  Here it is mounted on the deck
 

 
John

Warthog,
 
The main issue on deck planking was to avoid "pointed" planks because these would certainly leak. so methods were developed to produce a more right angled cut.  Prior to about 1850 the method was to curve the planks so that only a few on the outer edge needed any kind of special treatment.  The method was to used hooked scaph joints against the waterway as Glenn describes. 

 
When I look at these I feel there is still a degree of "pointiness".  A later method was  to use nibbing, where planks were parallel and cut into the waterway. 

This method was probably superior.
 
John

Warthog,
 
The main issue on deck planking was to avoid "pointed" planks because these would certainly leak. so methods were developed to produce a more right angled cut.  Prior to about 1850 the method was to curve the planks so that only a few on the outer edge needed any kind of special treatment.  The method was to used hooked scaph joints against the waterway as Glenn describes. 

 
When I look at these I feel there is still a degree of "pointiness".  A later method was  to use nibbing, where planks were parallel and cut into the waterway. 

This method was probably superior.
 
John

Warthog,
 
The main issue on deck planking was to avoid "pointed" planks because these would certainly leak. so methods were developed to produce a more right angled cut.  Prior to about 1850 the method was to curve the planks so that only a few on the outer edge needed any kind of special treatment.  The method was to used hooked scaph joints against the waterway as Glenn describes. 

 
When I look at these I feel there is still a degree of "pointiness".  A later method was  to use nibbing, where planks were parallel and cut into the waterway. 

This method was probably superior.
 
John

Warthog,
 
The main issue on deck planking was to avoid "pointed" planks because these would certainly leak. so methods were developed to produce a more right angled cut.  Prior to about 1850 the method was to curve the planks so that only a few on the outer edge needed any kind of special treatment.  The method was to used hooked scaph joints against the waterway as Glenn describes. 

 
When I look at these I feel there is still a degree of "pointiness".  A later method was  to use nibbing, where planks were parallel and cut into the waterway. 

This method was probably superior.
 
John

Warthog,
 
The main issue on deck planking was to avoid "pointed" planks because these would certainly leak. so methods were developed to produce a more right angled cut.  Prior to about 1850 the method was to curve the planks so that only a few on the outer edge needed any kind of special treatment.  The method was to used hooked scaph joints against the waterway as Glenn describes. 

 
When I look at these I feel there is still a degree of "pointiness".  A later method was  to use nibbing, where planks were parallel and cut into the waterway. 

This method was probably superior.
 
John

Warthog,
 
The main issue on deck planking was to avoid "pointed" planks because these would certainly leak. so methods were developed to produce a more right angled cut.  Prior to about 1850 the method was to curve the planks so that only a few on the outer edge needed any kind of special treatment.  The method was to used hooked scaph joints against the waterway as Glenn describes. 

 
When I look at these I feel there is still a degree of "pointiness".  A later method was  to use nibbing, where planks were parallel and cut into the waterway. 

This method was probably superior.
 
John

Warthog,
 
The main issue on deck planking was to avoid "pointed" planks because these would certainly leak. so methods were developed to produce a more right angled cut.  Prior to about 1850 the method was to curve the planks so that only a few on the outer edge needed any kind of special treatment.  The method was to used hooked scaph joints against the waterway as Glenn describes. 

 
When I look at these I feel there is still a degree of "pointiness".  A later method was  to use nibbing, where planks were parallel and cut into the waterway. 

This method was probably superior.
 
John

Post 44:  Elm Tree Pumps.
 
Once again a nice little mini kit from Chuck:
 

 
The first task was to make an octagonal profile from the square stock provided.  Chuck provides a  7:10:7 template.  I made several copies of this and then glued them to each side.  I then used my Veritas mini plane to plane down to the lines.  After painting assembly was achieved as per Chuck's instructions.  The bracket for the handle has to be modified by filing a slot into it to take the handle.  This was quite easily done with a micro file.
 

 
Then assembly as per the instructions was straight forward.  I found that the most difficult part was inserting 28 gauge wire through the bracket and the handle.  Initially one side of my carefully made slot broke off!.  Fortunately Chuck provides three sets of parts for two pumps and the second time I was more careful.
 

 
And here they are installed on the deck
 

 
John

This is Ed Tosti's technique described in his Young America log and, as Amateur points out, it is the only way to go when the angle of the shroud changes radically. The "paperclip method will make line of the deadeyes trend donward.
 
John

Post 44:  Elm Tree Pumps.
 
Once again a nice little mini kit from Chuck:
 

 
The first task was to make an octagonal profile from the square stock provided.  Chuck provides a  7:10:7 template.  I made several copies of this and then glued them to each side.  I then used my Veritas mini plane to plane down to the lines.  After painting assembly was achieved as per Chuck's instructions.  The bracket for the handle has to be modified by filing a slot into it to take the handle.  This was quite easily done with a micro file.
 

 
Then assembly as per the instructions was straight forward.  I found that the most difficult part was inserting 28 gauge wire through the bracket and the handle.  Initially one side of my carefully made slot broke off!.  Fortunately Chuck provides three sets of parts for two pumps and the second time I was more careful.
 

 
And here they are installed on the deck
 

 
John

Post 44:  Elm Tree Pumps.
 
Once again a nice little mini kit from Chuck:
 

 
The first task was to make an octagonal profile from the square stock provided.  Chuck provides a  7:10:7 template.  I made several copies of this and then glued them to each side.  I then used my Veritas mini plane to plane down to the lines.  After painting assembly was achieved as per Chuck's instructions.  The bracket for the handle has to be modified by filing a slot into it to take the handle.  This was quite easily done with a micro file.
 

 
Then assembly as per the instructions was straight forward.  I found that the most difficult part was inserting 28 gauge wire through the bracket and the handle.  Initially one side of my carefully made slot broke off!.  Fortunately Chuck provides three sets of parts for two pumps and the second time I was more careful.
 

 
And here they are installed on the deck
 

 
John

Post 44:  Elm Tree Pumps.
 
Once again a nice little mini kit from Chuck:
 

 
The first task was to make an octagonal profile from the square stock provided.  Chuck provides a  7:10:7 template.  I made several copies of this and then glued them to each side.  I then used my Veritas mini plane to plane down to the lines.  After painting assembly was achieved as per Chuck's instructions.  The bracket for the handle has to be modified by filing a slot into it to take the handle.  This was quite easily done with a micro file.
 

 
Then assembly as per the instructions was straight forward.  I found that the most difficult part was inserting 28 gauge wire through the bracket and the handle.  Initially one side of my carefully made slot broke off!.  Fortunately Chuck provides three sets of parts for two pumps and the second time I was more careful.
 

 
And here they are installed on the deck
 

 
John

Things are proceeding slowly right now, one because some of the deck details are slow work but also because the holidays are coming up and Covid or not life gets a bit more hectic.
 

 
I’ve decked a few models in my time but here we are again with another first on Cheerful, the curved planked deck. The deck is planked in two belts (much like the hull only flatter) The first step of the process is to establish the curve for the inner belt of six planks either side from the five already laid. I used thin artist tape, perfect for the job. I had one clear staring point, the full six plank width at midships. maybe a general idea of the bow and stern end point from studying photos of Chuck’s model in the monograph. But then its no more than a feel for what looks right, not easy for my metric based mind. I stuck and unstuck tape until it wouldn’t stick any more then pulled out a new piece and started again. I had to ask for a little affirmation from Chuck I was in the ball park and that finally I was. With that done I duplicated my 'artistic' curve on the other side - which I might add is harder to do.  It did help to confirm equal distances from each bulkhead using small scrap wood.
 

 
Then it’s time to line the deck just as I did with the hull. I had marked the bulkhead locations back when I installed the false deck, that was a wise move on my part, no need to guess where they are at this point.
 
I converted the tape line to a pencil line and removed the tape. Using the planking fan and strips of card stock I worked each each bulkhead on both sides. This is tedious but essential work, it took me a full day to complete this task, there are no shortcuts to measure, mark, measure.
 

 
In order to avoid slivers of planks on the sides of the deck furniture the monograph notes to instead cut the plank at an angle creating a notch to fill with the next plank. I had six of these to make as it turns out. I made templates by cutting one card to be just the plank width then a second card to fit the notch, then used double sided tape to combine them and complete the template. 
 

 
These are not easy to make right. The concept is easy, the execution not so much in order to get a tight fit. I used more double side tape to attach the template the the ¼ plank and used my trusty #11 blade to cut the plank.  Then I did that 5 more times…ok more than 5 more times was needed to get 6 that fit right. I was thankful this was not a kit (yet again) because I just kept ripping and cutting ¼ planks until I had what I wanted. In the end it creates a nice look I think.
 
As with all the deck planks I ran a #2 pencil line down one side of each plank to simulate the caulking.  In the process of making these I twice knocked a hinge off the companionway, I decided not to replace them a third time until I was done with the decking.
 

 
I’m happy with how these came out and will admit to two modifications I made, on purpose, because I’m of limited skill. With creating the notched fits around the furniture I elected not to taper the first run of 6 plank belt because I didn’t think the combined tapered and notched plank looked right, at least not to the extent I could make them.
 

I also modified the butt shift pattern from the plans on this first row for a similar reason. As a result I spent a good deal of time on a paper copy of the plan modifying it to stay true to the four butt shift  pattern, then transferred those marks to the deck. I elected to use a razor saw to cut butt joints partway through a full length plank for those close to the stern or bow. This was the best way for me to ensure a clean taper given my limited skill. For model purposes I really only needed one actual cut joint per row.
 

Here’s the first belt competed, I’m not sure I got the curve exactly right, I think it will look fine once the 2nd belt is installed. I have not done the final sanding and scraping or applied any WOP, I’ll do that with the finished deck. I’m ok with the color and grain variation, the WOP will even it out and, like the hull, it gives the deck character.
 
Off to cutting hooded planks for the second belt and finishing up the deck.

The decking begins. Not a lot new to report, just the measure, cut, fit, we’ve all done to lay a deck. This is the first time I’ve first glued the deck furniture to the false deck and the planking fitted around it. While it definitely looks better, it is also definitely more work to get the planking cut to fit.
 

 
I use Tamiya tape to fit angles and tight space, just cutting the tape to the right fit, taping that to the plank and cutting from there. I also use card stock, just depends on the piece I’m trying to fit.
 

 
While laying the first phase of the deck is straight forward, I piled up all the tools I used. It turned out to be quite the pile of stuff.  I don’t know if I’ve mentioned The Chopper and The True Sander before, I’ve got these long before my Byrnes machines. They make life easier with quick cuts (it uses a standard razor blade so easy to change) and sanding to get tight square fits. It’s one more way to sand stuff along with my sandpaper, blocks, and sticks - sooo many ways to sand…
 

 
In case you’re wondering things are even and centered, only the iPhone and the person holding it are a tilted throwing off perspective. I cut ¼ planks to have to fill the notched either side on the bread hatch, I’m sure the shades of the yellow cedar will even out as I go and once the completed deck is sanded and WOP applied.
 
So now it’s time for the planking fan and tapered planks to form the curved deck planking. This will take a while…

Post 44:  Elm Tree Pumps.
 
Once again a nice little mini kit from Chuck:
 

 
The first task was to make an octagonal profile from the square stock provided.  Chuck provides a  7:10:7 template.  I made several copies of this and then glued them to each side.  I then used my Veritas mini plane to plane down to the lines.  After painting assembly was achieved as per Chuck's instructions.  The bracket for the handle has to be modified by filing a slot into it to take the handle.  This was quite easily done with a micro file.
 

 
Then assembly as per the instructions was straight forward.  I found that the most difficult part was inserting 28 gauge wire through the bracket and the handle.  Initially one side of my carefully made slot broke off!.  Fortunately Chuck provides three sets of parts for two pumps and the second time I was more careful.
 

 
And here they are installed on the deck
 

 
John

Post 44:  Elm Tree Pumps.
 
Once again a nice little mini kit from Chuck:
 

 
The first task was to make an octagonal profile from the square stock provided.  Chuck provides a  7:10:7 template.  I made several copies of this and then glued them to each side.  I then used my Veritas mini plane to plane down to the lines.  After painting assembly was achieved as per Chuck's instructions.  The bracket for the handle has to be modified by filing a slot into it to take the handle.  This was quite easily done with a micro file.
 

 
Then assembly as per the instructions was straight forward.  I found that the most difficult part was inserting 28 gauge wire through the bracket and the handle.  Initially one side of my carefully made slot broke off!.  Fortunately Chuck provides three sets of parts for two pumps and the second time I was more careful.
 

 
And here they are installed on the deck
 

 
John

Post 43: Cannon tackle
 
These were made up from Syren 3mm blocks and 3mm hooks from Dafi.  There are all sorts of jigs described on this site for siezing these.  I found it pretty difficult to achieve a neat appearance on these small blocks.
 
Here's the jig I used
 

 
The blocks were held by two copper pins epoxied into the board. Syren 0.3mm rope was threaded through the hook then around the block and held in place by slots cut into the vertical board.   short length of fly tying thread was wrapped a couple of times between the block and the hook just to keep the hook from binding on the block.
 

 
The rope was glued to the block with 50:50 PVA and when this was dry it was tied off to the back of the block with a square knot.  After sealing this with hypo cement and trimmed off with a sharp scalpel blade.  Hereare some examples
 

 
The tacles were rigged on a jig with two eyebolts and jecked on a mock up gun before rigging to the guns on the deck.
 

 

 
Finally, rope cols were made by wrapping rgw rope around a 3.6 mm dowel and sealing with 50;50 PVA
 

 

 
I am not entirely satisfied with the look.  They are pretty untidy and the blocks are very close together (as I suppose they would be).  I could have used smaller diameter ringbolts but this would only have separated the blocks about by another 0.5 mm.  The only advantage would have been that it would probably have kept the hooks in place.  I found that they slipped out of these ringbolts very easly and so it was tricky to get both rings secured.
 
John
 
 

Post 42: Mounting the Carronades
 
Time to mount the carronades on the deck.  But first a couple of points I failed to mention earlier.
 
Blackening, the guns
 
The guns were blackened by the method suggested by chuck involving spraying with black paint (Vallejo warm black in my case) and then brushing with Rusty Brown weathering powder.
 

 
I have some etch primer for brass  but I find that it is quite viscous and destroys the detail a bit.  So I spayed the black directly on the brass cannons after washing them in soap and water and then a dip in acetone.  Because the coating is therefore a bit delicate, I gave them a final coating with matt lacquer. 
 
The final effect can be seen in earlier posts (38 and 41a)
 
Quoins
 
I avoided adding these until I had established the correct elevation of the guns.  I initially made the handles from wood which I thought were nicely to scale.  However they proved too fragile and broke at the slightest provocation.  They were a real pain to drill out and replace, especially if they were already glued to the carriage.  So in the end I replaced them with some slightly larger brass ones which I had obtained from Master Korabel.  They may be slightly over scale but at least they are more robust.
 

 
Mounting the Cannons
 
In post 41 you will see that the ring bolts for the bulwark are of the twisted pair type.  I am a bit paranoid about these pulling out.  They were shortened of course so as not to penetrate the hull planking. They fit tightly into a 0.6 mm hole which had been pre-drilled before the deck was planked.  A few that were a bit loose for some reason were  glued with a spot of epoxy.
 
The cannons were attached to the deck with a spot of PVA on the wheels.  This proved slightly problematic because although the seemed quite firm, a slight bump with my clumsy hands broke the bond.  The deck had a couple of coats of Poly so it was not really a wood to wood bond.  I notice that Stuntflyer pinned his rear wheels to the deck and I can see why he did that.  I decided that this was a lot of effort and just elected to reglue any that were dislodged. 
 
Here are the mounted cannons:
 

 
The next challenge is to make and fit the out-haul tackle.  I will need to think about this for a while.  I will be using Syren 3 mm blocks and 3mm hooks from Dafi.  These are pretty small for old hands!
 
John

Post 43: Cannon tackle
 
These were made up from Syren 3mm blocks and 3mm hooks from Dafi.  There are all sorts of jigs described on this site for siezing these.  I found it pretty difficult to achieve a neat appearance on these small blocks.
 
Here's the jig I used
 

 
The blocks were held by two copper pins epoxied into the board. Syren 0.3mm rope was threaded through the hook then around the block and held in place by slots cut into the vertical board.   short length of fly tying thread was wrapped a couple of times between the block and the hook just to keep the hook from binding on the block.
 

 
The rope was glued to the block with 50:50 PVA and when this was dry it was tied off to the back of the block with a square knot.  After sealing this with hypo cement and trimmed off with a sharp scalpel blade.  Hereare some examples
 

 
The tacles were rigged on a jig with two eyebolts and jecked on a mock up gun before rigging to the guns on the deck.
 

 

 
Finally, rope cols were made by wrapping rgw rope around a 3.6 mm dowel and sealing with 50;50 PVA
 

 

 
I am not entirely satisfied with the look.  They are pretty untidy and the blocks are very close together (as I suppose they would be).  I could have used smaller diameter ringbolts but this would only have separated the blocks about by another 0.5 mm.  The only advantage would have been that it would probably have kept the hooks in place.  I found that they slipped out of these ringbolts very easly and so it was tricky to get both rings secured.
 
John
 
 

Post 43: Cannon tackle
 
These were made up from Syren 3mm blocks and 3mm hooks from Dafi.  There are all sorts of jigs described on this site for siezing these.  I found it pretty difficult to achieve a neat appearance on these small blocks.
 
Here's the jig I used
 

 
The blocks were held by two copper pins epoxied into the board. Syren 0.3mm rope was threaded through the hook then around the block and held in place by slots cut into the vertical board.   short length of fly tying thread was wrapped a couple of times between the block and the hook just to keep the hook from binding on the block.
 

 
The rope was glued to the block with 50:50 PVA and when this was dry it was tied off to the back of the block with a square knot.  After sealing this with hypo cement and trimmed off with a sharp scalpel blade.  Hereare some examples
 

 
The tacles were rigged on a jig with two eyebolts and jecked on a mock up gun before rigging to the guns on the deck.
 

 

 
Finally, rope cols were made by wrapping rgw rope around a 3.6 mm dowel and sealing with 50;50 PVA
 

 

 
I am not entirely satisfied with the look.  They are pretty untidy and the blocks are very close together (as I suppose they would be).  I could have used smaller diameter ringbolts but this would only have separated the blocks about by another 0.5 mm.  The only advantage would have been that it would probably have kept the hooks in place.  I found that they slipped out of these ringbolts very easly and so it was tricky to get both rings secured.
 
John
 
 

Post 43: Cannon tackle
 
These were made up from Syren 3mm blocks and 3mm hooks from Dafi.  There are all sorts of jigs described on this site for siezing these.  I found it pretty difficult to achieve a neat appearance on these small blocks.
 
Here's the jig I used
 

 
The blocks were held by two copper pins epoxied into the board. Syren 0.3mm rope was threaded through the hook then around the block and held in place by slots cut into the vertical board.   short length of fly tying thread was wrapped a couple of times between the block and the hook just to keep the hook from binding on the block.
 

 
The rope was glued to the block with 50:50 PVA and when this was dry it was tied off to the back of the block with a square knot.  After sealing this with hypo cement and trimmed off with a sharp scalpel blade.  Hereare some examples
 

 
The tacles were rigged on a jig with two eyebolts and jecked on a mock up gun before rigging to the guns on the deck.
 

 

 
Finally, rope cols were made by wrapping rgw rope around a 3.6 mm dowel and sealing with 50;50 PVA
 

 

 
I am not entirely satisfied with the look.  They are pretty untidy and the blocks are very close together (as I suppose they would be).  I could have used smaller diameter ringbolts but this would only have separated the blocks about by another 0.5 mm.  The only advantage would have been that it would probably have kept the hooks in place.  I found that they slipped out of these ringbolts very easly and so it was tricky to get both rings secured.
 
John