bartley

Topic 40a: Internal Ladders
 
I have been asked to provide a bit more detail on ladder construction.  So for what its worth here's what I did:
 
First I made a jig with the correct angle from the plans
 

 
Then I glued 4mm  strips to this with a glue stick
 

 
With my friend's mill I then cut slots at equidistant intervals.  Flipping the jig gave ne left an right sides.
 

 
For assembly I used this second jig to ensure the sides were parallel and the steps at right angles.

 

Topic 40a: Internal Ladders
 
I have been asked to provide a bit more detail on ladder construction.  So for what its worth here's what I did:
 
First I made a jig with the correct angle from the plans
 

 
Then I glued 4mm  strips to this with a glue stick
 

 
With my friend's mill I then cut slots at equidistant intervals.  Flipping the jig gave ne left an right sides.
 

 
For assembly I used this second jig to ensure the sides were parallel and the steps at right angles.

 

Glenn,
 
If you decide to have a look at Swann-Morton blades make sure you match the handle to the blade type.  The handles are sold separately.
 

 
So the blue is the conventional scalpel blade holder. This is the one I use mostly and the blades are  about 2/3 the price of Excel blades (at least out here),  The red is I think called a SM00 Handle and takes a different style of blade.  You will see that I have a different shaped blade in this one.  The orange Craft Knife has a different style blade again and I only obtained it by accident because I bought the wrong blades and had to buy a handle to fit them so I could use them up.
 
John
 
 

Glenn,
 
If you decide to have a look at Swann-Morton blades make sure you match the handle to the blade type.  The handles are sold separately.
 

 
So the blue is the conventional scalpel blade holder. This is the one I use mostly and the blades are  about 2/3 the price of Excel blades (at least out here),  The red is I think called a SM00 Handle and takes a different style of blade.  You will see that I have a different shaped blade in this one.  The orange Craft Knife has a different style blade again and I only obtained it by accident because I bought the wrong blades and had to buy a handle to fit them so I could use them up.
 
John
 
 

Post 40 : Internal Ladders
 
I love these little scratch building projects in this build.  They look easy but, on reflection, are more difficult than they seem at first (at least for me).  Chuck’s excellent instructions are a great help – better than the kit, which I built previously.  However, I notice that he often stops short of providing the intimate details on how to build a particular component.  Far be it for me to read his mind but I believe he wants us to problem solve.  In this case, for instance, there are photos of the shapes of each of the parts. However, we must get the dimensions and angles from the plans.  How do we ensure that the angles of the steps are all the same, that the sides are parallel, that the port and starboard ladders are the same but mirror images?
 
I solved these problems in my own way but I always face something of a dilemma in providing a “how to” in my log.
Firstly, though I have learnt a huge amount from "how to" descriptions provided by others on this site, this is only my second build so I am very inexperienced and the way I stumble along and solve these little challenges is probably of little interest because experienced builders have probably solve the same problems long ago.
Perhaps more importantly, the problem solving is exactly what I enjoy so much about this build.  So, by providing intimate details on how to build a component, do we actually spoil the experience for others?  Those who built this ship earlier like Rustyj, Rafine and Stuntflier perhaps had a better experience because they had no “how to” and had to solve the problems themselves.
 
Anyway here is how they look:
 

 

 

 

Nice ladder looks like it fits perfectly 

Post 40 : Internal Ladders
 
I love these little scratch building projects in this build.  They look easy but, on reflection, are more difficult than they seem at first (at least for me).  Chuck’s excellent instructions are a great help – better than the kit, which I built previously.  However, I notice that he often stops short of providing the intimate details on how to build a particular component.  Far be it for me to read his mind but I believe he wants us to problem solve.  In this case, for instance, there are photos of the shapes of each of the parts. However, we must get the dimensions and angles from the plans.  How do we ensure that the angles of the steps are all the same, that the sides are parallel, that the port and starboard ladders are the same but mirror images?
 
I solved these problems in my own way but I always face something of a dilemma in providing a “how to” in my log.
Firstly, though I have learnt a huge amount from "how to" descriptions provided by others on this site, this is only my second build so I am very inexperienced and the way I stumble along and solve these little challenges is probably of little interest because experienced builders have probably solve the same problems long ago.
Perhaps more importantly, the problem solving is exactly what I enjoy so much about this build.  So, by providing intimate details on how to build a component, do we actually spoil the experience for others?  Those who built this ship earlier like Rustyj, Rafine and Stuntflier perhaps had a better experience because they had no “how to” and had to solve the problems themselves.
 
Anyway here is how they look:
 

 

 

 

Post 40 : Internal Ladders
 
I love these little scratch building projects in this build.  They look easy but, on reflection, are more difficult than they seem at first (at least for me).  Chuck’s excellent instructions are a great help – better than the kit, which I built previously.  However, I notice that he often stops short of providing the intimate details on how to build a particular component.  Far be it for me to read his mind but I believe he wants us to problem solve.  In this case, for instance, there are photos of the shapes of each of the parts. However, we must get the dimensions and angles from the plans.  How do we ensure that the angles of the steps are all the same, that the sides are parallel, that the port and starboard ladders are the same but mirror images?
 
I solved these problems in my own way but I always face something of a dilemma in providing a “how to” in my log.
Firstly, though I have learnt a huge amount from "how to" descriptions provided by others on this site, this is only my second build so I am very inexperienced and the way I stumble along and solve these little challenges is probably of little interest because experienced builders have probably solve the same problems long ago.
Perhaps more importantly, the problem solving is exactly what I enjoy so much about this build.  So, by providing intimate details on how to build a component, do we actually spoil the experience for others?  Those who built this ship earlier like Rustyj, Rafine and Stuntflier perhaps had a better experience because they had no “how to” and had to solve the problems themselves.
 
Anyway here is how they look:
 

 

 

 

Post 40 : Internal Ladders
 
I love these little scratch building projects in this build.  They look easy but, on reflection, are more difficult than they seem at first (at least for me).  Chuck’s excellent instructions are a great help – better than the kit, which I built previously.  However, I notice that he often stops short of providing the intimate details on how to build a particular component.  Far be it for me to read his mind but I believe he wants us to problem solve.  In this case, for instance, there are photos of the shapes of each of the parts. However, we must get the dimensions and angles from the plans.  How do we ensure that the angles of the steps are all the same, that the sides are parallel, that the port and starboard ladders are the same but mirror images?
 
I solved these problems in my own way but I always face something of a dilemma in providing a “how to” in my log.
Firstly, though I have learnt a huge amount from "how to" descriptions provided by others on this site, this is only my second build so I am very inexperienced and the way I stumble along and solve these little challenges is probably of little interest because experienced builders have probably solve the same problems long ago.
Perhaps more importantly, the problem solving is exactly what I enjoy so much about this build.  So, by providing intimate details on how to build a component, do we actually spoil the experience for others?  Those who built this ship earlier like Rustyj, Rafine and Stuntflier perhaps had a better experience because they had no “how to” and had to solve the problems themselves.
 
Anyway here is how they look:
 

 

 

 

Good work Glenn.
 
I found this almost the trickiest part of the whole build and much of my precious supply of boxwood ended up in the bin!
 
Incidentally, I notice that you use No. 11 blades.  For what its worth, coming from a beginner, I have given up on these in favour of Swann-Morton scalpel blades.  I found the No 11's lost their edge pretty quickly.  The scalpel blades seem to last longer and are cheap.  I also find their hobby handles very comfortable.
 
You are catching up to me fast.  I am enjoying the build but am a bit slow and bumbly.
 
John
 
 

Good work Glenn.
 
I found this almost the trickiest part of the whole build and much of my precious supply of boxwood ended up in the bin!
 
Incidentally, I notice that you use No. 11 blades.  For what its worth, coming from a beginner, I have given up on these in favour of Swann-Morton scalpel blades.  I found the No 11's lost their edge pretty quickly.  The scalpel blades seem to last longer and are cheap.  I also find their hobby handles very comfortable.
 
You are catching up to me fast.  I am enjoying the build but am a bit slow and bumbly.
 
John
 
 

Good work Glenn.
 
I found this almost the trickiest part of the whole build and much of my precious supply of boxwood ended up in the bin!
 
Incidentally, I notice that you use No. 11 blades.  For what its worth, coming from a beginner, I have given up on these in favour of Swann-Morton scalpel blades.  I found the No 11's lost their edge pretty quickly.  The scalpel blades seem to last longer and are cheap.  I also find their hobby handles very comfortable.
 
You are catching up to me fast.  I am enjoying the build but am a bit slow and bumbly.
 
John
 
 

Post 39: The Catheads
 
As suggested by Chuck these are made in two parts from 3/16 square stock which was cut on my Byrnes.
 
The first step was to cut slots into the caprail - always a scary business,  cutting holes in nicely fabricated parts.
 

 
The inboard part was made first and notched to fit the spirketing and the waterway:
 

 
 Slots were cut for the sheaves using a micro mill.  I do not own one of these but i have access to one via a colleague whom i cut planks for.  However, as always with this kind of arrangement, I am not very competent because I never  learn by experimenting.
 

 
Finally the inboard end was round to fit.  The idea is that it should look like one piece - which as it presumably was.  Cut from the elbow of a tree I presume.
 

 
So finally the two parts were glued in position:
 
 
 
John
 
 

Post 39: The Catheads
 
As suggested by Chuck these are made in two parts from 3/16 square stock which was cut on my Byrnes.
 
The first step was to cut slots into the caprail - always a scary business,  cutting holes in nicely fabricated parts.
 

 
The inboard part was made first and notched to fit the spirketing and the waterway:
 

 
 Slots were cut for the sheaves using a micro mill.  I do not own one of these but i have access to one via a colleague whom i cut planks for.  However, as always with this kind of arrangement, I am not very competent because I never  learn by experimenting.
 

 
Finally the inboard end was round to fit.  The idea is that it should look like one piece - which as it presumably was.  Cut from the elbow of a tree I presume.
 

 
So finally the two parts were glued in position:
 
 
 
John
 
 

Post 39: The Catheads
 
As suggested by Chuck these are made in two parts from 3/16 square stock which was cut on my Byrnes.
 
The first step was to cut slots into the caprail - always a scary business,  cutting holes in nicely fabricated parts.
 

 
The inboard part was made first and notched to fit the spirketing and the waterway:
 

 
 Slots were cut for the sheaves using a micro mill.  I do not own one of these but i have access to one via a colleague whom i cut planks for.  However, as always with this kind of arrangement, I am not very competent because I never  learn by experimenting.
 

 
Finally the inboard end was round to fit.  The idea is that it should look like one piece - which as it presumably was.  Cut from the elbow of a tree I presume.
 

 
So finally the two parts were glued in position:
 
 
 
John
 
 

Post 39: The Catheads
 
As suggested by Chuck these are made in two parts from 3/16 square stock which was cut on my Byrnes.
 
The first step was to cut slots into the caprail - always a scary business,  cutting holes in nicely fabricated parts.
 

 
The inboard part was made first and notched to fit the spirketing and the waterway:
 

 
 Slots were cut for the sheaves using a micro mill.  I do not own one of these but i have access to one via a colleague whom i cut planks for.  However, as always with this kind of arrangement, I am not very competent because I never  learn by experimenting.
 

 
Finally the inboard end was round to fit.  The idea is that it should look like one piece - which as it presumably was.  Cut from the elbow of a tree I presume.
 

 
So finally the two parts were glued in position:
 
 
 
John
 
 

Post 39: The Catheads
 
As suggested by Chuck these are made in two parts from 3/16 square stock which was cut on my Byrnes.
 
The first step was to cut slots into the caprail - always a scary business,  cutting holes in nicely fabricated parts.
 

 
The inboard part was made first and notched to fit the spirketing and the waterway:
 

 
 Slots were cut for the sheaves using a micro mill.  I do not own one of these but i have access to one via a colleague whom i cut planks for.  However, as always with this kind of arrangement, I am not very competent because I never  learn by experimenting.
 

 
Finally the inboard end was round to fit.  The idea is that it should look like one piece - which as it presumably was.  Cut from the elbow of a tree I presume.
 

 
So finally the two parts were glued in position:
 
 
 
John
 
 

A few people have asked me what power tools I use.  I have to confess to living in the dark ages a bit as the only power tool I own is my Byrne's saw which I now could not live without, though I do have access to a mill via a mutual arrangement with a fellow builder.  Here is part of my basic tool set:
 

 

 

Post 39: The Catheads
 
As suggested by Chuck these are made in two parts from 3/16 square stock which was cut on my Byrnes.
 
The first step was to cut slots into the caprail - always a scary business,  cutting holes in nicely fabricated parts.
 

 
The inboard part was made first and notched to fit the spirketing and the waterway:
 

 
 Slots were cut for the sheaves using a micro mill.  I do not own one of these but i have access to one via a colleague whom i cut planks for.  However, as always with this kind of arrangement, I am not very competent because I never  learn by experimenting.
 

 
Finally the inboard end was round to fit.  The idea is that it should look like one piece - which as it presumably was.  Cut from the elbow of a tree I presume.
 

 
So finally the two parts were glued in position:
 
 
 
John
 
 

Post 38:  The Carronades
 
This is a first for me (my previous build had no guns)  so I am enjoying the process but it is quite a slow business for me .  I quite like the look of black trucks but being mindful of the discussion on this point  from Druxey and others it seems that the consensus is "any colour but black" so I have gone with red.  I placed a few on deck to see how they would look. Just as on the chain plate straps, I used chuck's  method for the blackening of the cannons (painting followed by weathing powder).
 

 
The rigging of the guns is next.  The breech rope is quite straight forward using the method described by Chuck but I am finding fabricating the in-haul tackle much more of a problem.  I am exploring a few methods at the moment n order to find one that is quick enough to make the 40 or so blocks with hooks yet produces an acceptable appearance.
 
John

Post 20
 
Fancy Molding
 
I made a scraper (several in fact) by cutting into an old hacksaw blade using a Dremel with a thin cutting blade.
 


 


 

I found the production of these moldings quite challenging. Because I have only a limited supply of boxwood I made some initial tests with yellow cedar. However, this  gave very indistinct results and it was only when I used boxwood that I could obtain a satisfactory profile.  I also stuck the strip to my bench with double sided tape to stop it moving. I found that several light strokes were best until the profile was established and then I could be more aggressive.
 

Post 39: The Catheads
 
As suggested by Chuck these are made in two parts from 3/16 square stock which was cut on my Byrnes.
 
The first step was to cut slots into the caprail - always a scary business,  cutting holes in nicely fabricated parts.
 

 
The inboard part was made first and notched to fit the spirketing and the waterway:
 

 
 Slots were cut for the sheaves using a micro mill.  I do not own one of these but i have access to one via a colleague whom i cut planks for.  However, as always with this kind of arrangement, I am not very competent because I never  learn by experimenting.
 

 
Finally the inboard end was round to fit.  The idea is that it should look like one piece - which as it presumably was.  Cut from the elbow of a tree I presume.
 

 
So finally the two parts were glued in position:
 
 
 
John
 
 

Post 39: The Catheads
 
As suggested by Chuck these are made in two parts from 3/16 square stock which was cut on my Byrnes.
 
The first step was to cut slots into the caprail - always a scary business,  cutting holes in nicely fabricated parts.
 

 
The inboard part was made first and notched to fit the spirketing and the waterway:
 

 
 Slots were cut for the sheaves using a micro mill.  I do not own one of these but i have access to one via a colleague whom i cut planks for.  However, as always with this kind of arrangement, I am not very competent because I never  learn by experimenting.
 

 
Finally the inboard end was round to fit.  The idea is that it should look like one piece - which as it presumably was.  Cut from the elbow of a tree I presume.
 

 
So finally the two parts were glued in position:
 
 
 
John
 
 

Post 38:  The Carronades
 
This is a first for me (my previous build had no guns)  so I am enjoying the process but it is quite a slow business for me .  I quite like the look of black trucks but being mindful of the discussion on this point  from Druxey and others it seems that the consensus is "any colour but black" so I have gone with red.  I placed a few on deck to see how they would look. Just as on the chain plate straps, I used chuck's  method for the blackening of the cannons (painting followed by weathing powder).
 

 
The rigging of the guns is next.  The breech rope is quite straight forward using the method described by Chuck but I am finding fabricating the in-haul tackle much more of a problem.  I am exploring a few methods at the moment n order to find one that is quick enough to make the 40 or so blocks with hooks yet produces an acceptable appearance.
 
John

Yes Glenn,
 
After all they are our models so we can do what we want. 
 
I think that the main issue was that someone wanted to use black rims to simulate metal bands so it was pointed out it that would not be done on a ship as it would damage the deck.  Then that morphed into avoiding black altogether because it looked like metal.  But our gunwales are black and no one says the look like metal!
 
John