bartley
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bartley got a reaction from Matrim in Ripping Planks - what I've learned from others
Interesting Glenn,
When I innocently posted this photo in my log last year:
I got lots of PM's about how dangerous it was.
Here is one of my responses:
"Yes, You are correct. this is not the recommended way but many people use this technique and I am not an experienced user of table saws either so was a bit concerned . So I asked Jim Byrnes about this and he replied that ripping between the blade and the fence was the way to go . Apparently there is a very small offset at the rear of the fence to minimize the chances of kickback.
I used a block of wood on the left hand side behind the blade to push the billet against the fence and then used a push stick once the billet was on the table. There was no evidence of any kick back in the forty odd planks that I cut. Of course you don't need to move the fence if you do it this way and so I imagine the reproducibility is better. Incidentally, Chuck does it this way and he must have cut tens of thousands of planks."
John
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bartley got a reaction from Canute in Ripping Planks - what I've learned from others
Interesting Glenn,
When I innocently posted this photo in my log last year:
I got lots of PM's about how dangerous it was.
Here is one of my responses:
"Yes, You are correct. this is not the recommended way but many people use this technique and I am not an experienced user of table saws either so was a bit concerned . So I asked Jim Byrnes about this and he replied that ripping between the blade and the fence was the way to go . Apparently there is a very small offset at the rear of the fence to minimize the chances of kickback.
I used a block of wood on the left hand side behind the blade to push the billet against the fence and then used a push stick once the billet was on the table. There was no evidence of any kick back in the forty odd planks that I cut. Of course you don't need to move the fence if you do it this way and so I imagine the reproducibility is better. Incidentally, Chuck does it this way and he must have cut tens of thousands of planks."
John
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bartley got a reaction from mtaylor in Ripping Planks - what I've learned from others
Interesting Glenn,
When I innocently posted this photo in my log last year:
I got lots of PM's about how dangerous it was.
Here is one of my responses:
"Yes, You are correct. this is not the recommended way but many people use this technique and I am not an experienced user of table saws either so was a bit concerned . So I asked Jim Byrnes about this and he replied that ripping between the blade and the fence was the way to go . Apparently there is a very small offset at the rear of the fence to minimize the chances of kickback.
I used a block of wood on the left hand side behind the blade to push the billet against the fence and then used a push stick once the billet was on the table. There was no evidence of any kick back in the forty odd planks that I cut. Of course you don't need to move the fence if you do it this way and so I imagine the reproducibility is better. Incidentally, Chuck does it this way and he must have cut tens of thousands of planks."
John
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bartley got a reaction from Vladimir_Wairoa in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by glbarlow - FINISHED - 1:48
Very impressive Glen. Have a look at mine at the same stage. Just lacks the crispness of yours doesn't it?
John
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bartley got a reaction from Canute in Ripping Planks - what I've learned from others
With the longer stock all I find I need to do is to provide a bit more support at the end of a table. The problem is the longer plank tilts up as it goes off the end of the table. I just have a block of wood the same height as the table which supports the plank as it comes off the table.
John
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bartley got a reaction from glbarlow in Ripping Planks - what I've learned from others
With the longer stock all I find I need to do is to provide a bit more support at the end of a table. The problem is the longer plank tilts up as it goes off the end of the table. I just have a block of wood the same height as the table which supports the plank as it comes off the table.
John
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bartley reacted to Chuck in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
They look OK....the length wont affect things. But yes they are the typical funky shape for commercial ones being very bulbous on the tops. I am more worried about you not being able to get the rope coils over the top of those because they are so close together.
But it will probably be OK. I think you should use the longer ones. They are much better than the shorter ones.
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bartley got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 32: The Winch
The winch was constructed as per the plans. The posts were made from 5.6 mm square stock (7/32) and the cross beam from 4.75 mm Square (3/16). The tops of the posts were shaped in a similar manner to that fused for the timber-heads (knife and needle file):
The roller was tuned on my homemade lathe to a diameter of 4 mm and the bolt heads were simulated with 24 ga blackened wire:
Micro-tubing was used for the winch handles.
John
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bartley got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 33: Pin Rails
I have constructed the pin rails from 3/64 strip as suggested by Chuck. He makes his own pins from 3/64 square strip but I found that my skill s could not match his especially making 20 odd all the same! so I opted for commercial brass ones. Clearly they will need some further treatment - blackening, or maybe painting to llok like wood:
These fit tightly into a 1mm hole and seem to be about the correct scale. . Here I need some advice Chuck because they are only 8mm long and do not extend far below the pin rail. I have some 12 mm long ones but they need a 1.2 mm hole as you can see in this mock-up:
The tops also look a bit more "authentic". What do you think Chuck? I am worried about the consequences of the short ones when it comes to rigging them.
John
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bartley got a reaction from glbarlow in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 33: Pin Rails
I have constructed the pin rails from 3/64 strip as suggested by Chuck. He makes his own pins from 3/64 square strip but I found that my skill s could not match his especially making 20 odd all the same! so I opted for commercial brass ones. Clearly they will need some further treatment - blackening, or maybe painting to llok like wood:
These fit tightly into a 1mm hole and seem to be about the correct scale. . Here I need some advice Chuck because they are only 8mm long and do not extend far below the pin rail. I have some 12 mm long ones but they need a 1.2 mm hole as you can see in this mock-up:
The tops also look a bit more "authentic". What do you think Chuck? I am worried about the consequences of the short ones when it comes to rigging them.
John
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bartley got a reaction from JpR62 in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 33: Pin Rails
I have constructed the pin rails from 3/64 strip as suggested by Chuck. He makes his own pins from 3/64 square strip but I found that my skill s could not match his especially making 20 odd all the same! so I opted for commercial brass ones. Clearly they will need some further treatment - blackening, or maybe painting to llok like wood:
These fit tightly into a 1mm hole and seem to be about the correct scale. . Here I need some advice Chuck because they are only 8mm long and do not extend far below the pin rail. I have some 12 mm long ones but they need a 1.2 mm hole as you can see in this mock-up:
The tops also look a bit more "authentic". What do you think Chuck? I am worried about the consequences of the short ones when it comes to rigging them.
John
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bartley got a reaction from Tigersteve in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 32: The Winch
The winch was constructed as per the plans. The posts were made from 5.6 mm square stock (7/32) and the cross beam from 4.75 mm Square (3/16). The tops of the posts were shaped in a similar manner to that fused for the timber-heads (knife and needle file):
The roller was tuned on my homemade lathe to a diameter of 4 mm and the bolt heads were simulated with 24 ga blackened wire:
Micro-tubing was used for the winch handles.
John
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bartley got a reaction from glbarlow in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 32: The Winch
The winch was constructed as per the plans. The posts were made from 5.6 mm square stock (7/32) and the cross beam from 4.75 mm Square (3/16). The tops of the posts were shaped in a similar manner to that fused for the timber-heads (knife and needle file):
The roller was tuned on my homemade lathe to a diameter of 4 mm and the bolt heads were simulated with 24 ga blackened wire:
Micro-tubing was used for the winch handles.
John
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bartley got a reaction from Ryland Craze in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 32: The Winch
The winch was constructed as per the plans. The posts were made from 5.6 mm square stock (7/32) and the cross beam from 4.75 mm Square (3/16). The tops of the posts were shaped in a similar manner to that fused for the timber-heads (knife and needle file):
The roller was tuned on my homemade lathe to a diameter of 4 mm and the bolt heads were simulated with 24 ga blackened wire:
Micro-tubing was used for the winch handles.
John
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bartley got a reaction from Chuck in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 32: The Winch
The winch was constructed as per the plans. The posts were made from 5.6 mm square stock (7/32) and the cross beam from 4.75 mm Square (3/16). The tops of the posts were shaped in a similar manner to that fused for the timber-heads (knife and needle file):
The roller was tuned on my homemade lathe to a diameter of 4 mm and the bolt heads were simulated with 24 ga blackened wire:
Micro-tubing was used for the winch handles.
John
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bartley got a reaction from JpR62 in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 32: The Winch
The winch was constructed as per the plans. The posts were made from 5.6 mm square stock (7/32) and the cross beam from 4.75 mm Square (3/16). The tops of the posts were shaped in a similar manner to that fused for the timber-heads (knife and needle file):
The roller was tuned on my homemade lathe to a diameter of 4 mm and the bolt heads were simulated with 24 ga blackened wire:
Micro-tubing was used for the winch handles.
John
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bartley got a reaction from MEDDO in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 32: The Winch
The winch was constructed as per the plans. The posts were made from 5.6 mm square stock (7/32) and the cross beam from 4.75 mm Square (3/16). The tops of the posts were shaped in a similar manner to that fused for the timber-heads (knife and needle file):
The roller was tuned on my homemade lathe to a diameter of 4 mm and the bolt heads were simulated with 24 ga blackened wire:
Micro-tubing was used for the winch handles.
John
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bartley got a reaction from Canute in Blackening brass
You can buy burnished rings and eyepins, which are black but I have never seen anything "preblackened" in the sense we are talking about.
John
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bartley got a reaction from mtaylor in Blackening brass
You can buy burnished rings and eyepins, which are black but I have never seen anything "preblackened" in the sense we are talking about.
John
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bartley got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 31: Bowsprit
I am in the process of constructing the remaining deck furniture - Windlass etc. However, I decided to make and trial fit the bowsprit so that I can avoid maneuvering around the deck fittings. I turned this from 5/16 square stock as suggested by chuck. I drilled three 1.5 mm holes while the stock was still square and also the holes for the sheave at the tip
I then turned this on my home made "lathe"
The board at the end has a Roller Blade bearing. I actually have two of these and on longer jobs I position one about half way along to add extra support. I find this works pretty well and is cheap!
Of course I had to enlarge the hole in the bow to fit. Initially, I did this with drills of increasing diameter but this led to tearing of the timber so in the end I did most of the work with a round file. Here is the fitted bowsprit:
John
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bartley got a reaction from JpR62 in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 31: Bowsprit
I am in the process of constructing the remaining deck furniture - Windlass etc. However, I decided to make and trial fit the bowsprit so that I can avoid maneuvering around the deck fittings. I turned this from 5/16 square stock as suggested by chuck. I drilled three 1.5 mm holes while the stock was still square and also the holes for the sheave at the tip
I then turned this on my home made "lathe"
The board at the end has a Roller Blade bearing. I actually have two of these and on longer jobs I position one about half way along to add extra support. I find this works pretty well and is cheap!
Of course I had to enlarge the hole in the bow to fit. Initially, I did this with drills of increasing diameter but this led to tearing of the timber so in the end I did most of the work with a round file. Here is the fitted bowsprit:
John
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bartley got a reaction from VTHokiEE in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 31: Bowsprit
I am in the process of constructing the remaining deck furniture - Windlass etc. However, I decided to make and trial fit the bowsprit so that I can avoid maneuvering around the deck fittings. I turned this from 5/16 square stock as suggested by chuck. I drilled three 1.5 mm holes while the stock was still square and also the holes for the sheave at the tip
I then turned this on my home made "lathe"
The board at the end has a Roller Blade bearing. I actually have two of these and on longer jobs I position one about half way along to add extra support. I find this works pretty well and is cheap!
Of course I had to enlarge the hole in the bow to fit. Initially, I did this with drills of increasing diameter but this led to tearing of the timber so in the end I did most of the work with a round file. Here is the fitted bowsprit:
John
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bartley got a reaction from Bill Brown in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 31: Bowsprit
I am in the process of constructing the remaining deck furniture - Windlass etc. However, I decided to make and trial fit the bowsprit so that I can avoid maneuvering around the deck fittings. I turned this from 5/16 square stock as suggested by chuck. I drilled three 1.5 mm holes while the stock was still square and also the holes for the sheave at the tip
I then turned this on my home made "lathe"
The board at the end has a Roller Blade bearing. I actually have two of these and on longer jobs I position one about half way along to add extra support. I find this works pretty well and is cheap!
Of course I had to enlarge the hole in the bow to fit. Initially, I did this with drills of increasing diameter but this led to tearing of the timber so in the end I did most of the work with a round file. Here is the fitted bowsprit:
John
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bartley got a reaction from BLACK VIKING in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 31: Bowsprit
I am in the process of constructing the remaining deck furniture - Windlass etc. However, I decided to make and trial fit the bowsprit so that I can avoid maneuvering around the deck fittings. I turned this from 5/16 square stock as suggested by chuck. I drilled three 1.5 mm holes while the stock was still square and also the holes for the sheave at the tip
I then turned this on my home made "lathe"
The board at the end has a Roller Blade bearing. I actually have two of these and on longer jobs I position one about half way along to add extra support. I find this works pretty well and is cheap!
Of course I had to enlarge the hole in the bow to fit. Initially, I did this with drills of increasing diameter but this led to tearing of the timber so in the end I did most of the work with a round file. Here is the fitted bowsprit:
John
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bartley got a reaction from glbarlow in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 31: Bowsprit
I am in the process of constructing the remaining deck furniture - Windlass etc. However, I decided to make and trial fit the bowsprit so that I can avoid maneuvering around the deck fittings. I turned this from 5/16 square stock as suggested by chuck. I drilled three 1.5 mm holes while the stock was still square and also the holes for the sheave at the tip
I then turned this on my home made "lathe"
The board at the end has a Roller Blade bearing. I actually have two of these and on longer jobs I position one about half way along to add extra support. I find this works pretty well and is cheap!
Of course I had to enlarge the hole in the bow to fit. Initially, I did this with drills of increasing diameter but this led to tearing of the timber so in the end I did most of the work with a round file. Here is the fitted bowsprit:
John
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