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Ian_Grant
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Everything posted by Ian_Grant
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Yes, #340 is the "marines' walk". She is looking good! -
Bill, your photo of the "next mess" reminds me: to forewarn you, the marine's walk has some slots among its grid surface for the mainstay and main preventer stay collars to pass through it. Their locations are wrong, given that these stays pass to the right of the foremast (which is why there are no boarding pikes on that side of the mast) and are not centred. If you use Heller's slots you'll have a kink in these high tension lines. Blue Ensign had a detailed description of this on the, all together now, "old Pete Coleman Victory site". Don't glue the walk in until you have tested the alignment to the mainmast and shifted the slots. Also I seem to recall some difficulty getting part 358 installed around the necessarily previously installed bowsprit gammoning (see Longridge pg 225) but the details are foggy. I forget the sequence I used. Try some dry assemblies to prevent getting into a corner. 🙂 Did you happen to buy Daniel's resin knighthead? Whether or no, it is best to attach the relevant blocks to the front of the knightheads now because access is more difficult after this assembly stage is completed. See Longridge pg 266 Plan 10 for list of purchases which use these blocks.
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Nice buckets! Those boxes at the taffrail are the flag lockers, which are just a bunch of cubby holes with a canvas flap over the front face, not a wooden hinged lid on top. The blobs of styrene supplied by Heller are unappealing. I copied Blue Ensign on the old Pete Coleman site, and cut the front off one, filling it with an array of short lengths of square brass tubing. I put coloured bits of toothpicks in to simulate folded signal flags. The canvas flaps were simulated with thin bandage tape, one being open to show the flags. Here is a shot from the build. The real locker has many more cubbies, but I called it a day at this point. I could only find this shot of the real thing:
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Hi Richard! I'm glad you found this, and may I say I'm a great admirer of your gorgeous triere! Of course I had seen your smooth mechanism before but I wanted to try something different. By the way, I wonder why I get no notifications if someone comments in this log that I started? Update: I've been testing code, overcoming newbie arduino problems and getting used to it. At one point I was stuck for hours trying to get a bunch of nested IF's to do what I wanted! 🤪 I finally got around it by rewriting code to avoid such deep nesting. I just completed writing the program last night but only the first third is tested. As now written, the oar motion will simply be rectangular because I wanted to try to get the jig's oars going to be able to test the turning features etc. I can easily refine the stroke shape later. I wrote the code to stop the inside oars in a middling turn, and reverse them on a hard turn, whether going forward or backward. Should be interesting. Also, as written, as throttle advances there is an initial range over which the strike rate (oar cycles per minute) is constant but the sweep length gradually increases to full, then a new range over which sweep length stays at full but strike rate increases, to max speed (which would be short duration for actual human rowers). It also occurred to me while walking the dog this morning that there's no reason for the oars to move at the same speed on the power and return strokes; I will try speeding them up a bit on the return stroke to see how it looks. Software provides flexibility, but it also means there are a thousand possible ways to do this. I'd need an actual model to finalize the parameters eg how effective is the rudder for slight course corrections without changing the oar motion, when exactly to reverse oars on a turn, what's a good strike rate for the slower speeds, what's a reasonable strike rate at full speed, etc. Rainy weekend coming up so I will try debugging. Another video to come soon I hope.
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Three 1800s-era shipwrecks discovered in Lake Superior
Ian_Grant replied to JKC27's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Doh! We spent our summer camping trip on Superior west of the Soo within sight of Whitefish point but I never heard of this museum. Oh well the border was closed anyway. Next time for sure! -
Kevin, you've blown me away with this 3D work! Breathtaking! I'd like to contract you to do the Fusion360 hull lines for my upcoming roman galley....😉
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Like many builders I paid zero attention to Heller's rigging instructions; they might as well be in Etruscan. I recommend you do the same. I read through Longridge's rigging instructions many times - evenings, at hockey and ringette practices, weekend afternoons. It's actually a pretty short read, given all the other info on hull building etc in this large book. I agree that Revell's rigging instructions are to die for, for sequence of events. Use them as a general guide for sequence, and look up lines in Longridge to get the details. Like I said before, I actually rigged jeers etc before any standing rigging (apart from looping shrouds over the masthead), for reasons of access. While reading Longridge through, I made notes in a Hilroy exercise book regarding extra eyebolts required etc. Plan, plan, plan! 😀😃
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Two years in a rented room to rig her, even in Detroit, would be prohibitively expensive 😁. Just want to add that my maintop photo was during build, hence the few slack lines and dangling ends 🙄.
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Hi Bill; That's how the topgallant shrouds (not the backstay) tie off, in the mast tops - the deadeye shown is one of the topmast shroud deadeyes with the short iron plate to which the futtock shrouds hook. This photo shows my model's maintop. The thimbles inboard of the shroud deadeyes and lanyards can be seen, as can the black topgallant mast shrouds rising inside the ratlines. Also you can just see the hooks on the futtock shrouds below the top.
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I think I rigged it from masthead to eyebolt figuring at least it's outside the hull. Either way works.
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Rob, did you make those pump crank wheels?
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Bill, Consult Longridge pg 233 first paragraph, and last two paragraphs. In summary, the two deadeyes on the stool are for the topmast standing backstay, and the topgallant backstay. The royal backstay either has a thimble on the end lashed to an eyebolt on the stool, or lashed to a 2nd thimble attached to the eyebolt on the stool. This eyebolt lives behind the topgallant backstay deadeye which is why you can't see a 3rd attachment in the big drawing. This backstay is Heller's "1032"; I guess they want you to attach the thread before it is inaccessible behind the deadeye after you add it.
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https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/extraordinary-500-year-old-shipwreck-rewriting-history-age-discovery-180978825/?utm_source=smithsoniandaily&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=20211019-daily-responsive&spMailingID=45805020&spUserID=OTY4MjUzNzkyMTQ3S0&spJobID=2102058596&spReportId=MjEwMjA1ODU5NgS2
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I may have misled - Harland is speaking of stowing spars in the rigging when topgallant (and) topmasts are sent down; not stowage of spare spars per se. He does mention that topgallant masts are sent down a backstay and stored on the booms. His bibliography is rather extensive, including a couple of 18th century sources . but most are 19th or 20th century like our familiar Lees et. al.
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I agree with Popeye that upper yards were stowed in the rigging, in fact I made up the royal yards missing in the Heller Victory kit and stowed them inside the topmast shrouds. This is in accordance with "Seamanship in the Age of Sail" by Harland.
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Bill, we talked about this before. See post #433 where the tack runs through a sheave in the chess tree. I was just reminding you.....
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I agree with Kevin. Don't forget to feed that main tack through the chess tree! 🙂
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Dale, I really like your model, but hate to inform you that you have attached the jibs with the hanks along the wrong edges . The jib sheets should attach at the right-angled corner of the sail; the long edge you have loose should attach to the stay. Just in case you want to fix it. 😐
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Bill, since no one has answered (perhaps because it could turn into a very long dissertation) here is how I started. I looped my shroud pairs over the lower masts first then attached the jeer cleats and topmasts. All was pre-painted and then masts were glued in. Left shrouds dangling loose while attaching lower yards and their slings, jeers, and trusses, figuring they would not be affected by any mast positioning tweaks by standing rigging later and I had better access with loose shrouds. Rigged lifts but left loose. Once these ropes that run down alongside the mast were done, I rigged the shrouds then the stays, working my way upward and from bow to stern. Topgallant masts were attached once topmast shrouds were looped round topmast head, and then sort of repeat the above process. Of course, yards had all their blocks attached before adding to masts. My chief concern was access for belaying at deck pins because I have big hands and did not want to be reaching in with tools I don't have to try to tie things off. In fact, I attached many many lines (for example mizzen stays) to deck even before inserting masts, and rigged "in reverse" because there's better access up high. I attached threads of sufficient length to many deck pins and rigged in reverse too. It's a mess of coils at times but I'd rather do it that way. That's a brief indication of my thought process.
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Beautiful work, especially at that scale! Can't imagine trying to make those oars. We've been to Chania and I remember lunching at one of the restaurants opposite the lighthouse on the breakwater. Lovely city and we had a great time on Crete! <edit> ps Also got up at the crack of dawn in Chania to go on the Samaria Gorge hike. Memorable experience too.
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Kevin, actually you could print the hull in sections, like Yves Vidal's corvette. Just sayin' 😁😉
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