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Ian_Grant
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Everything posted by Ian_Grant
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I looked through my old pics to see again what I did. Here is a photo from early 2017. The jeers, sling, and truss pendants/nave line are rigged before the shrouds had deadeyes, for access. My thinking was that any mast movement when aligning it with stays and shrouds would not affect, ie slacken, anything just running up and down the mast anyway. Also seen are all the buntlines, clewlines. sprit braces etc that pass under the top, already tied down at deck level to rig in reverse. Of course, the yard was equipped with all blocks and footropes before mounting it. I forgot to lash the boom ends, so I just never did. As an aside, I started running into the "server error 200" while attempting to upload pics yesterday. This pic wouldn't upload either so as suggested in the "server error 200" log I submitted this reply with text only, then clicked "edit" and tried an upload again, which worked obviously.
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At all 3 masts, there are two deck eyebolts and two cleats on the front of the mast labelled for the truss pendants. Referring to Longridge pg 240, you see the diagram of the pendants themselves ending in double blocks.Two more double blocks are hooked to the deck eyebolts. The pendant tackle starts at the eye at bottom of the upper double block, reeves through the upper and lower blocks, and the free end (the "fall") is tied off to the cleat. So you are using all four of the marked positions, in the case of the mizzen #78. It's a similar story for the driver boom topping lifts #93. Referring to Longridge diagram pg 255 and text pg 256 "Topping Lifts", the topping lifts themselves end in double blocks. This is rigged in a tackle with a block at the deck eyebolt, and the fall is tied to a pin on the mast ring. You can see this in the Figure, the 15" double and 15" single aligned at the lower right. Thus again, all four positions marked 93 are used. Now that you are at the rigging stage I recommend you read and re-read Longridge and make notes. That's what I did to keep track of all the blocks and tackles.
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Deck seam looks great! Well done Kevin. Between you and Bill, you're going to make me want to restore my old CS in ordinary.
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Me, I would attach blocks to your eyebolts below the tops then glue the tops on. You can't really rig the lower stays before the shrouds as the stays are laid over all the seized shroud loops round the mast. You'll have to seize your shrouds round the mast in situ since the lift blocks and jeer cleats negate forming them off-model then slipping them over the mastheads. Damn I should have mentioned that before 😬..... I actually broke off the jeer cleats to let me do exactly that. Sorry! Remember too that the pendants go on before the shrouds..... But before you do anything I recommend you attach the relevant stays (with thimbles and lashings) to your new eyebolts behind the fore and main masts. Get in there while you still can, coil the stays and rig in reverse later. ps Shouldn't there be two eyebolts in front of the mizzen, and indeed the others, for the pairs of truss pendants? Looks like only one ahead of your mizzen. If you want to be really accurate you can bust out your new serve-o-matic machine and serve the centre portion of each shroud pair (consult Longridge) before seizing the loop. Here's a pic of my first served shrouds, at the foremast.
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Bill, not to distract from your Victory but I'm curious about Kevin's comment...😉 Kevin, have you 3D printed a deck for CS? I ask because as far as I know the Revell CS still has that annoying deck with the caulking lines molded proud of the planks, rather than recessed. Or were you trying to paint only them? With a properly molded deck it's easy to paint a wash over all, then wipe off leaving it in the cracks. Wish I had known that for my Victory instead of using ultra-fine-tip markers. Now back to our regular scheduled program........
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Very interesting model,Claire! My two cents: additional horizontal strips on the exterior grid would add shadow lines and depth and look striking. They don't need to be very thick if you're worried about the bulk. Just my opinion....
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Got the handrails (evergreen .040" half round) on without too much bother. Once you get one end started it is easy to CA the tops of the stanchions 4 or 5 at a time. Also added the ladder and its brass handrails to the flying bridge, and the 2nd compass. All five masts now have the four whips for the lower topsail sheets and lower yard lifts in place. I noticed the boat chocks are not really the proper curvature to match the boats but at this point I am not going to risk damage by trying to file them. Oh, and I have now knocked off and re-glued the starboard chimney of the boiler hut. Twice. I think I am at last ready to go full into rigging mode. 😃🤓 ps Had a 3rd pic but it won't upload despite several attempts (server error 200???). LATER EDIT: It seems a fix for this is to submit your post, then immediately "edit" and upload the picture again. Worked for me this time, so it's added below.
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Veszett, it's all good! Anything windjammer 😄.......That's a great documentary - they actually screened it one night for us when we were aboard "Royal Clipper".
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Bill, it's not you it's the kit. There is indeed an alignment problem with the mainmast hole in one of the decks; I forget which. I recall testing it after adding each deck and going at it with a file too. Too bad about the pikes - at least you had the fix method previously worked out! 😀
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EJ - do you mean you have built SR twice now, or that you've done gilt or coloured sculptures on various models? I'd love to see some pics of ships with painted ones.....
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I hadn't noticed that about the railing yet. You're right, if it extended straight from foc'sle to 1/4deck it would make sense. Maybe I will add another handrail there when /if I get to that stage. The other thing mystifying me is access to the poop and "flying poop" (or whatever they call it). I can see maybe an internal companionway to the poop deck under the poop deck cabin, but how does one access the flying poop? I could have worded that better, perhaps. 😀
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Another Heller Victory kit build! All right! Welcome George! There are a few of us here; I hope you start a build log. The Imai instructions are nice. If you need a rigging reference, Longridge's "Anatomy of Nelson's Ships" is one of the best specific to Victory. Regards, Ian
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Bill, we are looking over your shoulder, figuratively speaking. We just need a constant stream of pics to keep you on the straight and narrow! 😄
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If you don't already have it, a good reference is Harold Underhill's "Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier". Very many excellent diagrams, but doesn't go down to the detaisl of block sizes and rope diameters. Looking forward to seeing some pics of your ship! There aren't very many windjammers on this site.
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Untangling and rerigging or start from scratch?
Ian_Grant replied to Rgpracer's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Just curious here - your son "found it in his garage"? Did the previous owner leave it there? Depends on how much work you are willing to put into it. it seems to be completely rigged in natural-colour thread whereas the standing rigging (fixed rigging that supports the masts) should be much darker to represent tarred line. But replacing all that would be a BIG job. I agree with Roger about the ratlines, also the deadeyes are too close together. Plus there's something awry about the mainstay and preventer, in the 3rd photo. She needs a figurehead - you can probably buy a nice one ready for painting, I'm not sure what the scale is. The bowsprit gammoning is missing. Forestay and preventer shouln't be attached to the jib boom. I just see these at a glance....I also recommend the Longridge book to re-rig her. Good luck! It has the makings of a great model........ -
I missed that. I think the plates are only at the deadeye spaces though.
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Sorry my model is hard to photo in its case. Here are pics of Hackney's belaying diagram. Longridge's is very good but he omits some deck eyebolts. Consult him for rigging these lines, and the diagrams below to show where they terminate. The forecastle area: 47 are eyebolts and cleats for foreyard trusses; 18 is eyebolt for main topmast stay; 19 is eyebolt for preventer stay; Quarter and Poop decks: 65 mainyard truss pendants; 9 mizzen stay; 10 preventer stay; 78 cro'jack truss pendants; 93 driver boom topping lifts; 107 are davit lifts which he claims use same eyebolts as topping lifts; I think Longridge places them on mizzen belaying pin band. Oh and while I think of it - you'll be rigging many lines to the forecastle after rail beside the belfry. You might want to drill some sheave holes at an angle through the bases of the uprights before proceeding upwards. Good luck Mr. Phelps.........this post will self-destruct in 10 seconds............
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Thank you Ole! I am not using the kit line. I can't even remember what it was like. I guess Heller represents wire by black line; a lot of the running rigging is wire too with only the whips being of rope for handling by hand. So far I am using the grey line for "wire", and some Amati 0.1mm tan line left over from "Victory" for the whips. Probably I will use some smaller grey line for topgallant and royal stays, sheets, etc. Problem is I couldn't find the smaller line in the exact same shade of grey. The 0.1mm tan line seems small for the lower brace trim adjustments, for example, so I may use 0.25mm tan line when I get to them. I am partly limited by the blocks which are Syren 3/32" even for the lower yards, because 1/8" were out of stock when I needed them 😞 Do you have/are you contemplating a Preussen?
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Thanks Bill, and I echo that comment to everyone 🥂 Have a safe happy 2022 😷. Bill, I realized that there are some things you could do before gluing in the masts; or maybe you have done them I don't know. Way way back I mentioned some additional eyebolts you need around the masts. I think you bought Noel Hackney's little book after I mentioned it? If so see his belaying plan inside the back cover. Around the foremast you need four eyebolts marked 18, 19, and 47(pair). These are for the main topmast stay and preventer, and foreyard truss pendants. You also need a pair of cleats at the front of the mast for the pendants. Around the mainmast you need four eyebolts marked 9, 10, and 65(pair). These are for the mizzen stay and preventer, and mainyard truss pendants. You also need a pair of cleats at the front of the mast for the pendants. Around the mizzenmast you need four eyebolts marked 78(pair), and 93(pair). These are for the driver boom lifts, and crojack truss pendants. You also need a pair of cleats at the front of the mast for the pendants. These would be easier to drill before adding the masts. In keeping with my rigging philosophy, I attached the stays and boom lifts, with the required thimbles etc, at this stage and rigged them in reverse later.
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Hi Bill. You would be better to get the various blocks attached beneath the mast tops first while separate from the boat. Especially the fore top.
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Regarding the order of rigging, my goal is always to minimize the number of lines I have to tie down at deck level while reaching in through previously rigged lines. I think I mentioned before I rig a lot of stuff in reverse for this purpose. It makes for a mess in the intermediate stages but saves a lot of cursing later. 🙄 For example I attached the lower yards and rigged their jeers completely, before the lower shrouds (shrouds were seized around the mast head, but just dangling). My thinking was that I had easy access at that stage, and that any slight movement of the mast as I later adjusted the shroud lanyards would not affect the jeers anyway. You just have to imagine later stages, and try to avoid painting yourself into a corner. I'm doing this again on my Preussen build. Only the jigger mast is glued in so far but already there are a lot of dangling threads. 😬 I will be rigging all the sheets and downhauls in reverse, at each mast.
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Bill - Don't forget about the lashing at the heel of the jib boom.....Longridge mentions it on pg 227 "Standing Rigging of the Jibboom &etc"
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Thanks gentlemen for the likes, and Veszett for your reply . Boy, I'm starting to believe I can fix anything! 😄
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Glad that acetone makes CA removal easy. I didn't know that.........
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