Keith Simmons

Looks great, I'm going to have to learn how to make a hull frame someday...

Looks great, I'm going to have to learn how to make a hull frame someday...

Looks great, I'm going to have to learn how to make a hull frame someday...

Another horrifying frame, we'll see how it goes, The keel is Red Oak, with Black Walnut hull planking. The lightning bolt pattern in hull is quarter sawed African Mahogany. Decking is Bubinga, hard to say right now what the rest will look like, I'll see where it takes me..    By the way , that's my lumber mill in the background...lol

Thanks Piet, I never know what the hull shape will be till I'm done. Design on the fly...

Looks great, I'm going to have to learn how to make a hull frame someday...

The deck is scribed spalted English Walnut, cap rails are Yew wood. I craved the prop out of Maple and the rudder is yew wood but painted. Cabin coaming is also yew wood.

Lovely shape, beautiful colors in the wood.  The "bliksem straal" (Dutch for lightning bolt  ) really stands out.
 
Cheers,

I was contemplating which build to put back next........I kinda wish I could put the M&M Fun Ship back,  but it's finished,  and would be silly to do that.   I figured that this build wouldn't take too long.....I guess I'm probably in the middle of it at the moment.
 
The Syborn build is part of an experiment I was doing,  taking the part's panels from other builds,  tracing out the parts,  to see if other hulls can be created from them.  there are many hull configurations that a multitude of ship evolved from......and I got the idea from Billings.   The Cux,  The Mary Ann,  and a couple of other kits that they carry,  have the same basic hull shape.   I'm going to try and expand on this.   then by simply altering the bow and {or} the stern,  other hulls can be created.   I can fit them out as I see fit.
 
I had cut out the hull parts for two complete frames.......I am just doing the hull parts,  that's all I want.   I see so many ships in my searches,  that I'll get a good idea as to what subject I want to model.  One of them,  I had left with the normal rib count.   I was going to do another fishing vessel,  but the admiral talked me into doing the M&M build.  this one definitely proved my theory.   The second frame,  I had duplicated the 5th and 6th ribs,  making the hull longer.   the length of the hull from the kit was 21 inches long.  to duplicate just two of these ribs,  increased the length of the hull to 25 inches.......that's quite a bit.
 
Bassically,  the only logical ribs that can be duplicated are the centermost ribs........any other ribs would interfere with the tapering of the bow and stern.   faring the hull,  will contour the frame to the shape that the hull will be after planking.   I started this build  in February of 2012
 
2 - 10 - 2012
 
It all started with 1/4 inch plywood......


I had saved the parts panels from the Mary Ann build.   selecting the hull parts,  they were traced onto the plywood.


the parts were then cut out.



They do look rough.........but I'm not worried.  faring the frame afterwards,  will take care of all that.
 

Another horrifying frame, we'll see how it goes, The keel is Red Oak, with Black Walnut hull planking. The lightning bolt pattern in hull is quarter sawed African Mahogany. Decking is Bubinga, hard to say right now what the rest will look like, I'll see where it takes me..    By the way , that's my lumber mill in the background...lol

Another horrifying frame, we'll see how it goes, The keel is Red Oak, with Black Walnut hull planking. The lightning bolt pattern in hull is quarter sawed African Mahogany. Decking is Bubinga, hard to say right now what the rest will look like, I'll see where it takes me..    By the way , that's my lumber mill in the background...lol

Hi Andy
 
What stage are you at with hull. If its finished I can understand why you would want to accept the bow and try to make the best of it when planking the deck. The best solution is always to try to remove the bow. If you don't want to do this then working from a straight centre line is probably going to be easier than trying to follow the bend.
 
Keith

I agree that the amount of detail in a build is up to the builder. As I don't use or have plans when I start a ship, my builds come from a general idea of the look I'm going for. The details just come with the process. I realize this may not be the best way to build a model but it does allow for the imagination to run wild. 

Plan sheets arrived today - Carta Augusto (Italian Mfg.).... Appear to be very old, maybe 25 or 30 years or more.  My friend tells me he has had them forever and doesn't even remember where he got them from.  He came across them while looking for something to donate for the April Show in Fayetteville.
 
Actually, after spending hours going over several really fine build logs posted within MSW, except for the patterns for her keel and frames, I'm not too sure there will be much of these plans I will be using in my build. 
 

 
The drawings of all the ornamentation do not represent anything like I want to create after reading Bill Short's extensive research. 
 

 
For the most part, I will be using his interpretation of this ship.  Here is his amazing stern creation..... pretty impressive huh?
 

 
Here goes nothing!  Wish me luck (I'll need all I can get).
 
 
 
 

I agree that the amount of detail in a build is up to the builder. As I don't use or have plans when I start a ship, my builds come from a general idea of the look I'm going for. The details just come with the process. I realize this may not be the best way to build a model but it does allow for the imagination to run wild. 

I agree that the amount of detail in a build is up to the builder. As I don't use or have plans when I start a ship, my builds come from a general idea of the look I'm going for. The details just come with the process. I realize this may not be the best way to build a model but it does allow for the imagination to run wild. 

XMAS TREE LIGHTS - Recently, a string of about-to-be-installed Christmas lights caught my eye. These were only a cheap variety, but my immediate thought was: Cut the tips from each globe, drill holes of corresponding size in a strip of wood, insert former Xmas light, and you have a perfectly round porthole with a domed window pane.
 
(Observant viewers may have noticed the complete lack of snow in my part of Australia at Christmas time - it was 38 degrees Celsius today!!)
 

Hi,
 
I just want to point out that Impressionist paintings command some of (if not) the highest prices in the art world. I truly believe that a lot of what we do is art. The important thing is to present a cohesive "whole", i.e. dont go hyper detailed on one part of the build and gloss over others. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
Best,
John

I redrew a set of tug plans to fit the sizes I needed to match up with the John Cudahy's spec's. Basswood was used for frames and planking. Yew wood was used for keel, stem, counter timber, guard timbers.

I had a similar problem when using Titebond even though I use hardwoods on my ships. I started using Aleene's Tacky glue and it was less problematic pus it has a better initial hold. Might be worth a try. good luck.

I'm wondering if the plank isn't tight against the bulkhead.  White glue (PVA) is quite viscous, so if the clamping pressure isn't high enough to squeeze out the glue then plank and bulkhead won't come together.   Other makes of glue, such as Titebond, are much thinner.  
 
I'm not sure of the chemistry of PVA glue, but I think you can water it down (only very little water is needed) to thin it out.
 
As a test, lay some strips on a flat surface at the distance of your bulkheads.  Then glue a few planks to the strips.  With some, apply the same clamping pressure as was used on the model, and on others, use a c-clamp or heavy weight.  
 
FYI, with white glue you should coat both surfaces, but you only need a transparent coat - just get the wood uniformly wet.  If you can't see the wood color through the glue, you've put on too much.   For furniture making, the thinner the glue line, the stronger the joint.  It also means there is less squeeze-out glue to clean up.