Baker

Maybe this will work.
print the flags on regular paper first
apply glue (pritt) around the area of the printed flags.
and certainly up to the edge of your tissue paper.
let it dry well.
print.
and cross your fingers 😉
 
I did mine on the (expensive) laser printer at work.
After retiring, this is the only thing I miss now...

Today it was a day with lot of work but little progress. I don't know how many pieces I lost. But its my target to add as much detail as possible 
 

What is your technique for getting the folds?
 
When you tried with the tissue paper, did you tape it to a plain piece of paper.  I have had pretty good success doing that.
 
 

Hi Gregory, for the folds, it's hard for me to describe. It's basically a matter of holding the mounting edge tight, while pulling down on the top edge of the flag.
 
I start closest to the mounting edge. I guess the trick is to fold back and forth, just keeping in mind how gravity keeps pulling down on it, while the wind is trying to push out on it. Because it's plain paper, it keeps its shape pretty well. I haven't decided yet just how windy the conditions are for the ship!
 
On the tissue paper, yes, I taped it to a plain sheet. Did that a couple times. The way my printer, a Canon IX6820, feeds, it doesn't feed it evenly, and I end up with a crumpled mess. I might try again in the future, but for now I'm pretty happy the way the single-thickness plain paper is turning out.
 
 

Made my first attempt at printing flags on tissue paper and couldn't get the paper to not jam up in the printer ☹️
 
I was able to print on regular paper and thought about folding them over, but I know how thick that ends up. Decided to see how good the alignment consistency is on my printer. Turns out, if I'm careful and have the images perfectly centered, I can print one side, flip the paper over, and print on the other, and it's pretty darned close.
 
I have three usable flags done this way now, and just the pendant left. I don't have any artwork for that flag, so I'll have to draw it up from scratch. Pretty basic, so it shouldn't take that long to do.
 

I only folded the flag above. I didn't try to wet it at all. I'm not sure of the colorfastness of this ink. I'm using some cheap third-party ink, so I think I have to spray this with something to keep the colors from running. But, I'm not sure if that's just going to make the whole flag itself waterproof, and prevent me from using water to shape it. It probably doesn't matter, as I think the flags will shape nicely, even without wetting them.
 

 
The one thing I forgot about is the white edge of the paper. It's just like paper modeling, one needs to color the edge to take off the bright white color. 
 
Note that I tried to give the above flag some texture, but I made it a bit too wrinkly. I'll keep that in mind for the final flags.
 
 

Thank you, Frank, nice to hear from you. I ended up redoing the knighthead for the main lower tie to a four sheave, I used .4mm line for the ties and top rope and .2mm for the fall, the rams head measures approximately 4.5mm, 30" at scale, also I needed to install the Mizen lower stay collar and fabricate a 1.70mm 5-hole dead eye, 9.75" at scale to check the clearance at the railing, next Ill fabricate the parral before finally gluing in the lower main mast. Thanks for looking.
 
Michael D.

I never built a Mayflower....
 It is certainly not the perfect model, but if this is a cartoon, thanks

 

maybe my buildlog can help you
BTW. There no detailled plans for an English galleon.
 

I printed my flags on tissue paper 
Link is post 704, starts at post 700
 
 

Hello, and many, many thanks for your nice comments and likes
Because we had here the last week the finest summer weather, I was't very often at the ship yard. But today the weather shanged and I have worked a little at the yard. The preparations for the following work I made during the week. These bars where for fastening the shields or tent to the wall.
 
The battens are 0,6 X 1,2 mm. The drill bit has 1 mm Ø


And that is what I finished today. The worst part of this is, gluing them to the gun wale

Hi Patrick, thanks for the link! That's exactly what I've been thinking of doing. I hope I can get my flags to look as nice as yours!

I printed my flags on tissue paper 
Link is post 704, starts at post 700
 
 

I printed my flags on tissue paper 
Link is post 704, starts at post 700
 
 

I printed my flags on tissue paper 
Link is post 704, starts at post 700
 
 

flags, further experiments.
Based on a great idea from 72Nova  (post 164)
 
Today I managed to attach tissue paper to plain paper and print it on the work printer.
Flags can be printed on the front and back of the (standard) printing paper.
Or just on one side to be glued together.
Excel is free to use
 
vlaggen.xlsx
 
@72Nova  Thanks for the idea

Thanks for likes and comments.
 
Flags
At first sight a successful experiment 
 
the tissue paper is taped to the standard printing paper. And came out of the printer without getting stuck.

The tissue has been cut loose

the flags are glued together and somewhat wrinkled.

after drying overnight.

Now attach these to the masts.

I'm going to follow this method, it's the most common.

from the book "Prins Willem" of Herman Ketting.

And this man probably knew more about ships than I do.

Thanks for following
 

The flags are attached to the masts

 
 
 
And...
I think everything is ready on this model.

Hey yall! Excited to be here! This is my first foray into any sort of model building. I've gotten the OcCre Albatros kit and have been eager to get things going! If I enjoy this hobby like I'm hoping I will, my end goal is to complete a project from scratch, but baby steps first. Look forward to learning from everyone, thank you for having such a welcoming community!

Didn't get any feedback on my questions from my last post, but I'm moving on now.
 
Looking at the flags in this Mamoli/Dusek kit. They appear to be printed nylon. They're not really dissimilar from the flags in the Woody Joe Charles Royal Yacht kit, but those flags could be shaped quite nicely. These don't seem to hold my attempts at shaping.
 

 
I've found what I think is appropriate artwork on the Internet, so I'm considering printing the flags on my color inkjet printer. I think I want to print both sides of the flag and fold over and glue. I'm considering trying to print on silkspan if I can get that to work. Any suggestions on how to do that successfully? 
 
I just don't want them to be look too thick. I just noticed that the first flag is truncated slightly on the left side. I think I can fix that without too much trouble.
 



 
Alternatively, anyone know of a source for the needed flags?
 
 

A lot of time passed since my last posting. Most of it was caused by people, family and friends, who start to die all over the place. In a very short period I lost six relatives and close friends. That takes away a lot of one's motivation and working power.
Anyway, the model approaches its finishing stage, after which I will come up with better pictures than these.  
There is a lot to say about some choices I made, but as a whole I think I am reasonably satisfied with the result. For a ship with a totally different background the result could have been worse (and better for that matter).
In a later stage I will give my remarks about the rigging, which on this model is mainly done after Dutch sources, quite different in details from the only rigged dockyard model I have found so far.
 
Back to flags, anchors, lanterns and sailors.

Thank you very much Patrick. It's just that the translator doesn't explain it well..😁
 
All five Stays Mouse done..💥

Shrouds and Stay Mouse are strung..🔥

This post is more about chisels than the model.    The capstan requires 1.5mm square through mortises for the bars and  I took that requirement as an opportunity to improve my tool set with some high quality itty-bitty chisels.    In my chisel search I didn't find any practical reviews and few useful images, which is why I'm posting this.
 
For the last several years I've used a set from Micromark (https://micromark.com/products/premier-elite-10-piece-micro-chisel-set?srsltid=AfmBOoo25HTv42qIr3vrm2I6f-pPAJdfx_ZCUUQOsFwwSeSSKkIMR4j5).   It's easy to complain about these chisels, but they served me pretty well to the extent they could.   The handles are good and they fit in my hand well, and there's a great variety of sizes at the very small end of the spectrum.  And I think they are priced reasonably for what they provide.  In fact, I don't know of any other source for chisels narrower than ~1.5mm.   But, ultimately, they don't fit the bill for a genuine micro equivalent of a real bench chisel.   A bench chisel has to take an edge, of course, but there's more: its back must be flat and its sides must be parallel.  Nobody's chisel, regardless of size, comes from the factory perfectly tuned, but the potential has to be there and it isn't with my old set.    
 
From some searching on MSW and a little googling,  my candidates for replacement were Kirschen's Two Cherries 1.5 mm chisel (https://twocherriesusa.com/product/micro-carving-tool-straight-chisel-octagonal-hornbeam-handle/) and the Flexcut 1.5 straight chisel (https://www.flexcut.com/home/product/mt11-116-1-5mm-micro-chisel?srsltid=AfmBOopeJrL74HjjF7cISoSlRGmPjaG7DdC1aEgpLCbbR6liTG1RayQW).    I didn't see anyone other than Micromark offering smaller sizes, but as it happened 1.5mm was the right size for my current need, so I ordered the Kirschen 1.5 mm ($60.00, free shipping) and the Flexcut 1.5 mm 6 chisel set ($104 from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016DBO1TK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1).   Which may seem extravagant, but I figured the Flexcut set would prove useful and that one or the other of the two 1.5 mm straight chisels would be a good candidate to grind down to 1.0 mm, which is another size I think I have to have.
 
Both arrived quickly.   Pictures below.   These were taken after I'd done some tweaking on them, which is why you can see some honing marks.
 

 
The Kirschen's bevel is 25 degrees and the blade is 1.7 mm wide.   The blade length is 5.3 cm and the width is constant.   The handle is 1.5 cm diameter x 11 cm.  It feels good and, since it's octagonal, it won't roll around on the bench.  The blade bottom is flat (and can be made flatter when it's tuned up).   One thing I don't like is that the blade tapers vertically from 1.5 mm at the top of the bevel to 2.8 mm at the back end.   That means it can only fit about 3/4 cm into a square mortise.   Most of the time, though, the extra strength that the taper provides will not interfere with my use.    All in all, I think I'll get plenty of use from this chisel and I am sure that long blade will often be an important feature.
 
The Flexcut's bevel is 27 degrees, and its blade was the same 1.7 mm as the Kirschen.  Blade length is a short 1.7 cm and it tapers in the horizontal plane from 1.7 to about 2 mm.  I definitely object to that horizontal taper.   (What are they thinking to do that?) The vertical thickness is a steady 1.1 mm from the top of the bevel back to the handle.
 
The handle looks like a sausage and I did not expect to like it.    But I found this chisel surprisingly pleasant to hold and work with.   Working in close, with the chisel in one hand guided by fingers near the end of the blade, everything about it is comfortable and secure.   The ovoid cross section of that sausage means that it's easy to keep track of the blade's angle.     I've already ground the blade down to about 1.3mm wide and my intention is to take it to 1.0 mm and make the sides parallel.    I will get a second Flexcut, grind it to an actual 1.5 mm width and also make its sides parallel.
 
I'll conclude with a couple of pictures of the capstan piece that has mortises made from these chisels.

 
And that's all for now.  Thanks for looking, and I hope this information proves useful to some of you.
 
Bob
 
 
 
 
 
 

Great work ondras.
A too complicated system for my poor mind to understand  but a great result 👍

Behold the stern completed. When creating the windows, I did not cut the 1/16” framing tape down to 1/32”. At the time I did not think it would make much of a difference, but at this scale it does! After the windows were mounted on the ship I added 1/32” x 1/16” wood strips on the top and bottom to create a thinner reveal of the white tape around the windows. This helped. 
 
The knees were created in cherry as shown in the photo. As with many parts of the project, I figured the stern would be easy. I was proved wrong, as I had to make many adjustments to accomplish acceptable results.
 
I am learning not to linger too long on a particular part of the project, only redoing things that look out of place or inconsistent with the rest of the ship. 
Steve