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petervisser

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  1. Like
    petervisser got a reaction from JayCub in Cutty Sark by petervisser - Billing Boats - Scale 1:75   
    I also worked on the foc'sle. My initial attempt did not work out so well as I was using the deck the previous owner had cut out. It proved to be too small and there were large gaps between it and the hull planking. Unfortunately I had already planked it so that proved to be a waste of effort, and wood...
    Again, I traced the outer contour of the hull in that area and got the shape of the foc'sle deck. I applied the planking while the false deck was in place because I wanted the camber. To do this and hold the planks in place while the glue was setting I could not use any type of clamping. So I devised a new method of holding them in place with magnets. I taped the magnets to the underside of the deck and placed the other magnets atop the glued on deck planks.
    Here are a couple of pictures to show what I mean.


  2. Like
    petervisser got a reaction from Javlin in Cutty Sark by petervisser - Billing Boats - Scale 1:75   
    Thanks for asking Popeye, as a matter of fact there is!
     
    I have been preocupied with summer and some post retirement work, but managed to sneak in a few hours over the last couple of weeks. Just thought I would share some photos of the progress.
     
    The area around the stern is what needed doing next after the majority of the hull planking was applied. I wanted to do this area before completing the gunwales.
     
    The length of each plank on the hull allowed me to reach from the bow to the last bulkhead. So I decided to do this and leave the stern for a separate planking application. It seemed to me it would waste less wood and I could decide on a solution of applying a severe bend around the stern. I am aware of other builders installing vertical plank(ettes) around the transom and I thought I might end up doing the same. But in the end I decided to to things a bit differently as you will see by the pictures.
     
    The first step was to apply some planking under the counter of the stren so that the transom would cover the ends. Here are a few photos of that process...
     




  3. Like
    petervisser got a reaction from JayCub in Cutty Sark by petervisser - Billing Boats - Scale 1:75   
    The inner bulwarks did not finish off pretty so I decided to add some linings to them. This also helped me with the freeing port problem I was having. By cutting ot the openings in the liners, I won't have to cut though the hull. I will simply affix some dummy freeing port doors to the outer side of the hull when that time comes. The liners also helped witht he tricky painting that needed doing at the waterways. There is the problem of attaching the stanchions and the deadeye straps that they will alleviate, but I have yet to figure that out altogether...
  4. Like
    petervisser got a reaction from JayCub in Cutty Sark by petervisser - Billing Boats - Scale 1:75   
    The windlass also needed some work so the purchase rods and crosshead handles were added.
  5. Like
    petervisser got a reaction from etubino in Cutty Sark by petervisser - Billing Boats - Scale 1:75   
    I also worked on the foc'sle. My initial attempt did not work out so well as I was using the deck the previous owner had cut out. It proved to be too small and there were large gaps between it and the hull planking. Unfortunately I had already planked it so that proved to be a waste of effort, and wood...
    Again, I traced the outer contour of the hull in that area and got the shape of the foc'sle deck. I applied the planking while the false deck was in place because I wanted the camber. To do this and hold the planks in place while the glue was setting I could not use any type of clamping. So I devised a new method of holding them in place with magnets. I taped the magnets to the underside of the deck and placed the other magnets atop the glued on deck planks.
    Here are a couple of pictures to show what I mean.


  6. Like
    petervisser got a reaction from JayCub in Cutty Sark by petervisser - Billing Boats - Scale 1:75   
    Time to catch up on the ole build log before it gets ahead of me. I have been doing work in a few areas before finishing off the hull. One of those areas is the caps for the bulwarks. Ideally I wanted to apply them as soon as the hull painting is done. Initially I wanted to use the "mahogeny" that I had on hand from an old kit I had been given a while back. That that proved impracticle because I could not saw it without it splitting/breaking when I sawed across the grain. I also had sheets of basswood on hand which I ended up using as they did not break. It's not my favourite wood to use but it is available at my hobby store here in town and I can stain it to suit.
    I start by tracing the outer shape of the hull at the bulwarks to have a baseline from which I can measure to get the width of the railing cap. Here are some photos of the process. The initial pics show the wood I initially started with.

  7. Like
    petervisser got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Cutty Sark by petervisser - Billing Boats - Scale 1:75   
    The inner bulwarks did not finish off pretty so I decided to add some linings to them. This also helped me with the freeing port problem I was having. By cutting ot the openings in the liners, I won't have to cut though the hull. I will simply affix some dummy freeing port doors to the outer side of the hull when that time comes. The liners also helped witht he tricky painting that needed doing at the waterways. There is the problem of attaching the stanchions and the deadeye straps that they will alleviate, but I have yet to figure that out altogether...
  8. Like
    petervisser got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Cutty Sark by petervisser - Billing Boats - Scale 1:75   
    The windlass also needed some work so the purchase rods and crosshead handles were added.
  9. Like
    petervisser got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Cutty Sark by petervisser - Billing Boats - Scale 1:75   
    I also worked on the foc'sle. My initial attempt did not work out so well as I was using the deck the previous owner had cut out. It proved to be too small and there were large gaps between it and the hull planking. Unfortunately I had already planked it so that proved to be a waste of effort, and wood...
    Again, I traced the outer contour of the hull in that area and got the shape of the foc'sle deck. I applied the planking while the false deck was in place because I wanted the camber. To do this and hold the planks in place while the glue was setting I could not use any type of clamping. So I devised a new method of holding them in place with magnets. I taped the magnets to the underside of the deck and placed the other magnets atop the glued on deck planks.
    Here are a couple of pictures to show what I mean.


  10. Like
    petervisser got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Cutty Sark by petervisser - Billing Boats - Scale 1:75   
    Time to catch up on the ole build log before it gets ahead of me. I have been doing work in a few areas before finishing off the hull. One of those areas is the caps for the bulwarks. Ideally I wanted to apply them as soon as the hull painting is done. Initially I wanted to use the "mahogeny" that I had on hand from an old kit I had been given a while back. That that proved impracticle because I could not saw it without it splitting/breaking when I sawed across the grain. I also had sheets of basswood on hand which I ended up using as they did not break. It's not my favourite wood to use but it is available at my hobby store here in town and I can stain it to suit.
    I start by tracing the outer shape of the hull at the bulwarks to have a baseline from which I can measure to get the width of the railing cap. Here are some photos of the process. The initial pics show the wood I initially started with.

  11. Like
    petervisser reacted to marktiedens in HMS Vanguard by marktiedens - Model Shipways - scale 1:72   
    Hi everyone. The gun deck is now planked & false treenails added.  I did the false treenails by just giving a small twist with a #77 drill bit - just enough to break the surface. A coat of poly then makes them visible,but not too overdone. I only did the treenailing to the part of the deck that will be visible. Also the edges of the planks were darkened with a #2 pencil before glueing down.
     

     

     

     
    Mark
     
     
     
     
     
     
  12. Like
    petervisser got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Cutty Sark by petervisser - Billing Boats - Scale 1:75   
    The inner bulwarks did not finish off pretty so I decided to add some linings to them. This also helped me with the freeing port problem I was having. By cutting ot the openings in the liners, I won't have to cut though the hull. I will simply affix some dummy freeing port doors to the outer side of the hull when that time comes. The liners also helped witht he tricky painting that needed doing at the waterways. There is the problem of attaching the stanchions and the deadeye straps that they will alleviate, but I have yet to figure that out altogether...
  13. Like
    petervisser got a reaction from marktiedens in Cutty Sark by petervisser - Billing Boats - Scale 1:75   
    The inner bulwarks did not finish off pretty so I decided to add some linings to them. This also helped me with the freeing port problem I was having. By cutting ot the openings in the liners, I won't have to cut though the hull. I will simply affix some dummy freeing port doors to the outer side of the hull when that time comes. The liners also helped witht he tricky painting that needed doing at the waterways. There is the problem of attaching the stanchions and the deadeye straps that they will alleviate, but I have yet to figure that out altogether...
  14. Like
    petervisser got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Cutty Sark by petervisser - Billing Boats - Scale 1:75   
    The windlass also needed some work so the purchase rods and crosshead handles were added.
  15. Like
    petervisser reacted to drobinson02199 in Cutty Sark by drobinson02199 - FINISHED - Mantua/Sergal - Scale 1:78   
    Finished the bowsprit standing rigging (see pics below).  The chains are a nice touch, and they are more than decorative -- they do provide a counter force to the upward pull on the bowsprit from the foremast stays.
     
    I found that Mantua didn't supply enough chain to do the job as specified on the plans.  Fortunately, I had some leftover chain and used that for three of the top fittings -- the brass in my leftover chains is a nice contrast with the Mantua black chain used elsewhere.
     
    This is my first Mantua kit, and it's about the third place in this kit where I've been short on something.   I've concluded that while Amati provides more than you need, Mantua provides "not enough".  I'm counting and conserving things to make sure I don't run out.
     
    [Just noticed an unclipped rigging pigtail in these pics -- ]
     
    Regards,
    David



  16. Like
    petervisser reacted to alpayed in Danmark by alpayed - Billing Boats - Kit bash   
    Hi guys.
    Thanks for the kind comments.
    A couple of pics of the lower masts. (so far)
    This work is not hard, just time consuming, take your time and have fun. Some of these parts are my second and third attempt.
    I look at the work of others on this site and get a lot of inspiration. I get a lot of satisfaction too.
    At this scale it's at the limit of my ability. (at this stage) But I keep trying. And so should you.
    Allan
     



  17. Like
    petervisser reacted to drobinson02199 in Cutty Sark by drobinson02199 - FINISHED - Mantua/Sergal - Scale 1:78   
    I've built the lowest yard on the foremast -- pictures attached.
     
    The brass swivel fitting gives about a 90 degree swing to this yard, which I think could spell trouble while I'm building, so my next move will be to put up the foremast shrouds to give some side support to the yard.   The upper shrouds are already rigged so they will support the next yard up, and then the ones above have wooden fittings which will be stiffer.  I was originally reluctant to fix the masts too soon as I thought I might want to remove them to mount these lower yards with brass swivels, but now that I've done it it's actually easier with them fitted on the ship.
     
    The swivel assembly on the yard is difficult and a bit fragile -- took a couple of tries to get it right.
     
    Regards,
    David




  18. Like
    petervisser reacted to Alex Parker in USS Gambier Bay by Alex Parker - Hasegawa - 1:350 - PLASTIC   
    After a week plus of crazy work travel and no time for models, this weekend I got a start on the splinter camoflage scheme.  I used the kit paper templates by cutting them out and using 2-sided tape to stick them to masking tape, then stick the masking tape to the model.  This worked kind of OK, but after the third color (so far I've done light gray, gray, and ocean gray in that order) the masks were starting to lift and not stick back down.  So I pulled them all.  Next weekend (the week will again be crazy with travel and a board of directors meeting) I will carefully mask just the areas that need to be black (I will use very dark gray) and paint them.  Then do a LOT of touching up.


  19. Like
    petervisser reacted to Hennie in Sovereign of the Seas by Hennie - Sergal - 1:78   
    Hi all!
     
    Thx Chris for your information.
     
    I am still very busy with the deck guns, as the photo shows....
     
    Hennie
     
     

  20. Like
    petervisser got a reaction from JayCub in Cutty Sark by petervisser - Billing Boats - Scale 1:75   
    After having a little debate with myself about adding a windlass, I happened to be at my local hobby store and they had a Model Shipways version for sale. Well, that meant I had to add it to my model...
     
    I wasn't sure if it would be worth the effort because it is under the foc'sle but with the cutaway, it is definately visible. Using Longridge's book I had a good idea what it's supposed to look like. I didn't use all the bits and pieces, just enough to make it look somewhat authentic. After the assembly, I used some Humbrol satin black paint and voila!, a windlass was born.


  21. Like
    petervisser got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Cutty Sark by petervisser - Billing Boats - Scale 1:75   
    After having a little debate with myself about adding a windlass, I happened to be at my local hobby store and they had a Model Shipways version for sale. Well, that meant I had to add it to my model...
     
    I wasn't sure if it would be worth the effort because it is under the foc'sle but with the cutaway, it is definately visible. Using Longridge's book I had a good idea what it's supposed to look like. I didn't use all the bits and pieces, just enough to make it look somewhat authentic. After the assembly, I used some Humbrol satin black paint and voila!, a windlass was born.


  22. Like
    petervisser reacted to kpnuts in Cutty Sark by kpnuts - Artesania Latina   
    No full size drawings, bought this as a started model but someone suggested I build the smaller frame upto the size of the bigger one then remove material from the bigger one, I think that's the method I will use.
  23. Like
    petervisser reacted to Vicnelson in HMS Agamemnon by Vicnelson - Caldercraft - 1:64   
    Pottering away on lower mast rigging....going slower than expected due to number of trips away to meet family etc.  
     

  24. Like
    petervisser reacted to Henke in HMS Agamemnon by Henke - Caldercraft - 1:64   
    The bottle is empty and progress has been slow. Is there a connection 🙂? But now, first planking is finished! Being first time with such a big boat I am reasonably happy with the result. Filler, sanding, filler, sanding, sanding and more standing will start now. I am now almost 6 months into the build. 




    Kind regards
     
    Henrik
     
  25. Like
    petervisser reacted to drobinson02199 in Cutty Sark by drobinson02199 - FINISHED - Mantua/Sergal - Scale 1:78   
    Pictures below of the lifeboats and the anchor.  The hull is now complete (with the exception of the lifeboat parrels, which the manual says leave until later).  So it's on to the masts now.
     
    Regards,
    David




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