petervisser

Hi G. I went through this dilemma a while back and tried to source the self same eyebolts. Like you, none were small enough so I tried fabicating my own. The results were less than ideal as each one was slightly different than the one before. And the length of time to produce a single eyebolt seemed quite time consuming. Not sure where or how I came up with this method but it has been a game changer for me. Below are the steps taken to manufacture these little fittings consistently and quickly. The size of the eye will vary with the size of the needle and gauge of the wire. Just experiment to get the size down to your satisfaction.
Cheers,
Peter
 

Hi Julian. Your model is really coming along and the decks look really good. Perfect shade for the wood I think. As for your stern windows, have you ever thought of using the storage filament found inside floppy disks? Remember those? I first learned of this technique on the old Drydock Models website a long while back. He used that technique on his Bellona model and I was really impressed. Otherwise a blue filament might work too. Just a suggestion. I’m curious what you choose going forward. All the best.
Peter
 

Finally finished the deck planking on all the deck levels...
 
With three coats of wipe on poly.
 
I made the mistake of sanding the green lath on the rear deck wall... not sure why I even did it...
I have now lost the lustre and brightness of the green stain and will likely have to do a new wash or stain on it.
 
 

Thanks David,
Thats a great site. I would love to buy one pack just to see how they are, but the shipping from the UK is more than the eyelets. Will have to think about whether to go ahead and spend $30 for three or just make my own. Thanks again for the link.
 
I gave Peter's method a try last night and it actually works really well. After getting the hang of it, I could make about 1 per minute. I wrapped the wire around a 24 ga. needle and grabbed the ends with a hemostat. With one finger through the grip on the hemostat, I could just hold the needle end tight and twirl the hemostat. The toughest part is judging when the eye is tight against the needle. Still, a very nice approach. Of course, at a minute each,  it will still take about 7-8 hours to make all that I need for the whole ship. 😆
 
Thanks again Peter. I'll be sure to give you credit in my build log. By the way, where did you get the black wire?
 
Frank

Hi G. I went through this dilemma a while back and tried to source the self same eyebolts. Like you, none were small enough so I tried fabicating my own. The results were less than ideal as each one was slightly different than the one before. And the length of time to produce a single eyebolt seemed quite time consuming. Not sure where or how I came up with this method but it has been a game changer for me. Below are the steps taken to manufacture these little fittings consistently and quickly. The size of the eye will vary with the size of the needle and gauge of the wire. Just experiment to get the size down to your satisfaction.
Cheers,
Peter
 

Hi G. I went through this dilemma a while back and tried to source the self same eyebolts. Like you, none were small enough so I tried fabicating my own. The results were less than ideal as each one was slightly different than the one before. And the length of time to produce a single eyebolt seemed quite time consuming. Not sure where or how I came up with this method but it has been a game changer for me. Below are the steps taken to manufacture these little fittings consistently and quickly. The size of the eye will vary with the size of the needle and gauge of the wire. Just experiment to get the size down to your satisfaction.
Cheers,
Peter
 

On to the next phase of rigging the yards. I have prepped all the blocks for the sheets, tacks and clew lines. Because of the use of the stock blocks that come with a Billing kit, I have painted them all black with 2 coats of Humbrol paint. A bit tedious to say the least but worth the effort. There are also a number of coils ready to hang from the belaying pins once the rigging starts.
 

Hi G. I went through this dilemma a while back and tried to source the self same eyebolts. Like you, none were small enough so I tried fabicating my own. The results were less than ideal as each one was slightly different than the one before. And the length of time to produce a single eyebolt seemed quite time consuming. Not sure where or how I came up with this method but it has been a game changer for me. Below are the steps taken to manufacture these little fittings consistently and quickly. The size of the eye will vary with the size of the needle and gauge of the wire. Just experiment to get the size down to your satisfaction.
Cheers,
Peter
 

After completing the masts and ensuring that everything fit well and was straight (I don’t intend to glue the mast sections together), I moved on to making the jib boom, the 3 Spencer booms and the spanker.
All were made per EdT
I started with the jib boom, which was made of AYC.
The bands were made of copper tube and strips.  For most of the bands, this involved heating and expanding the band on a tapered metal rod until it fit on the boom.
The bowsprit band which houses the jib boom was formed with approximately 1/16 inch copper strip that was reduced to.010 inch thickness,  the tab on the starboard’s side was first bent to shape and soldered.  A #75 hole was drilled in the bottom of the band that placed over a pin in the bottom of the bowsprit to secure the band in location. The ends were then wrapped around the bowsprit and the jib boom and the tab was formed and  glued on the port side with cyano.  This allowed the jib boom to be held securely in place while allowing it to be removed for safety.
I decided to make shackles for the jib boom guys with thimbles made from 1/32 inch brass tube that was cut and filled to approximately 1/32 inch thickness.
Trying to solder the eyebolt: shackle combo to the bands was difficult and frustrating because I kept soldering the shackles to the eyebolts as well which kept the shackles from moving freely.  After multiple attempts and way too much time, I finally managed to get 2 bands made.  Not sure I’m going to try that again.
The main and fore Spencer booms were originally made from AYC, but were too fragile and kept breaking where I drilled the hole for the  in haul/out haul.  I ended up making them from boxwood, which is much stronger, although darker in color but hopefully will not be that noticeable.
The mizzen Spencer and spanker were made from AYC , as they are much larger booms.
Bands were made per the jib boom with shackles in the eyebolts on the spanker (I found a technique that worked consistently when soldering the eyebolts to the band)
The pendants for the Spencer booms were made of black thread (.08 for main and fore booms and .012 for the mizzen).
All have brass thimbles for the blocks to attach to.  I’m not really happy with the knots around the thimbles as they look too bulky to me.  The lines are secured to the thimbles with cyano.  I may redo these if I find a better way to do it.
The spanker was rigged with the foot ropes and topping lifts.  The knots in the foot ropes were made per Nic at Bluejacket.  Thanks again Nic!!’
All thread for the running rigging ( smaller than .08, which I buy from Syren) was dyed with walnut dye per EdT, then pulled through a bath of very dilute white glue.
The yoke on the inboard end of the mizzen spencer was shaped out of 2 pieces of AYC and drilled for 3 brass bolts of .02 inch brass rod. The parral. was made from22ga copper wire.
The cleats were made from brass wire and copper strips, soldered and filled to shape.  
The in haul/ out haul was also rigged on he spanker and secured on the cleats.

Over the last few days (very time-consuming work), I fabricated and installed the wooden forecastle railing.  I made extra posts for when I get to the poop railing.  I kind of dreaded this as I own no micro/watch making lathe.  This is the first occasion I wish I had more than my handheld Dremel and small files.  Never-the-less, I found a way.  For each pillar I used two 12mm "walnut" belaying pins that came with the original model kit.  I was happy I could use them in this way.  The stem on each pin chucked up nicely and was useful in handling the posts.  I made the acorn finials out of 8mm brass belaying pins.  The wood rails and blocks I made out of cherry and stained.
 
On a separate topic, I ordered some 3mm studded chain from AliExpress (China) in hopes it would be useable.  It was the closest to being scale and didn't find anything else that was promising.  I think it will work out fine once painted and weathered.  I was pleasantly surprised that the chain fit the scaled windlass drive pockets perfectly.  Once the chain is prepared, I can wrap the windlass and install it permanently.  I will also add a couple chain pipes that will deliver the chain to the alternate chain locker located in the former crew berthing area under the forecastle.  All this, of course, will be almost impossible to see once the model is done.  I'll have pictures 🙂
 
 

Hi G. I went through this dilemma a while back and tried to source the self same eyebolts. Like you, none were small enough so I tried fabicating my own. The results were less than ideal as each one was slightly different than the one before. And the length of time to produce a single eyebolt seemed quite time consuming. Not sure where or how I came up with this method but it has been a game changer for me. Below are the steps taken to manufacture these little fittings consistently and quickly. The size of the eye will vary with the size of the needle and gauge of the wire. Just experiment to get the size down to your satisfaction.
Cheers,
Peter
 

Hi G. I went through this dilemma a while back and tried to source the self same eyebolts. Like you, none were small enough so I tried fabicating my own. The results were less than ideal as each one was slightly different than the one before. And the length of time to produce a single eyebolt seemed quite time consuming. Not sure where or how I came up with this method but it has been a game changer for me. Below are the steps taken to manufacture these little fittings consistently and quickly. The size of the eye will vary with the size of the needle and gauge of the wire. Just experiment to get the size down to your satisfaction.
Cheers,
Peter
 

A really interesting subject Keith and at such a small scale. You're a braver man than I. It sure is starting to come to life!
Peter

Hi G. I went through this dilemma a while back and tried to source the self same eyebolts. Like you, none were small enough so I tried fabicating my own. The results were less than ideal as each one was slightly different than the one before. And the length of time to produce a single eyebolt seemed quite time consuming. Not sure where or how I came up with this method but it has been a game changer for me. Below are the steps taken to manufacture these little fittings consistently and quickly. The size of the eye will vary with the size of the needle and gauge of the wire. Just experiment to get the size down to your satisfaction.
Cheers,
Peter
 

On to the next phase of rigging the yards. I have prepped all the blocks for the sheets, tacks and clew lines. Because of the use of the stock blocks that come with a Billing kit, I have painted them all black with 2 coats of Humbrol paint. A bit tedious to say the least but worth the effort. There are also a number of coils ready to hang from the belaying pins once the rigging starts.
 

Hello All,
I have a small update on Bellona. I know that I am a long way off before Bellona is ready to be placed on her display stand, but I couldn’t resist putting together the stand that I plan to use when the Bellona is completed. The stand that was supplied with the kit is somewhat boring and after all this time and effort I am putting into this model, I wanted something that was going to be subtle but also stand out. I was able to locate a plank of Black Walnut with a live edge for the base. I purchased 4 figures of Hercules that I will use to support the ship. I sanded and applied a finish to the Black Walnut plank and blackened the figurines using rub-n-buff black wax. The grains of the plank and the antiquing of the figurines flow nicely with the walnut hull of the ship. She is a long way off before she is placed in the stand for the last time, but for now, it will be a nice berth for her to be placed on in between sessions of assembly.  Well, that’s all I have for now. Enjoy the pictures and as always, your comments and guidance are always welcome.
Cheers
Nearshore

Hello All,
I have another small update on Bellona progress. The upper canon ports have been looking pretty rough up to this point. The 3 layers of planking have different color contrasts, and they really have not flowed with the rest of the ports. I decided that I would go ahead and paint them red to match the port post on the false gun ports. This was a fairly easy task to complete, and the results are very satisfying and pleasing to the eye. There are a few of the ports that are going to require some filler to smooth them out. The camera has a way of enhancing the flaws that otherwise look ok in person. I will circle back on this later. Well, I think it’s time to start working on some of the armament. I am planning on preparing the 18 pound shot canons that will be on the upper gun deck. The rigging supply that came with the kit is not of the highest quality in my humble opinion. I have researched quite a bit on making scaled rope over the past couple years and decided that I was going to give it a go and try and make my own rope for the Bellona. I purchased an infinite rope walk a year or so ago and have been practicing for a bit now. I do not have much room in my workshop, so this tool seemed to make sense to me if I were to make my own rope. I am starting with making the breeching and gun tackle for the canons. I have included some pictures of the kit supplied rope and the rope that I made with the rope walk. I think the rope walk did a pretty good job, but it did take quite a bit of trial and error, mostly error, before I started getting good results. I have included some pictures, and a short video of the rope walk in action in case anyone has an interest. Well, I don’t have anything else to add for this post and will provide another update when I make some progress on the armament. As always, your comments and guidance are always welcome.
Cheers
Nearshore
 






20250201_071511.mp4

Returning to the project after a somewhat lengthy and unexpected hiatus.
 
So, last May, Mr. Boyd amended his Hull Corrections document to include some double strakes that are missing on the kit hull. Honestly, my first reaction to this was "Ugh. More corrections. I'm NOT doing them.". But alas, it's winter and I've done them. (Well...not ALL of them. To be explained later).
 
I purchased some 0.25mm x 4.0mm styrene strip for this task.
The thickness is very close to bang on (perhaps a wee bit thick), but the width is not.
I used a set of calipers to scribe two strips to 3.75mm wide and then trimmed them with a #18 blade. Having said that, I found I still had to trim the width of each strake a tad more just prior to cementing in place. With using strips, I was guaranteed to have one edge perfectly straight. 

 
Port Fwd....


 
I struggled with the Port Fwd section somewhat and had to fill quite a few gaps. I used Milliput Superfine epoxy putty.

 
Port Aft.....


 
Port Aft went quite a bit better....

 
Starboard Forward....


 
Starboard side went very well. Just one small gap to fill in the forward section.....

 
Starboard Aft....


More on the yellow and blue circled sections in a bit.
 
Starboard Aft went well also....

 
Regarding the strake circled in yellow, (both sides, Port and Starboard), two images above.....this is already flush (on the kit mold) and adding a strake here would just create another inaccuracy, in that it would then NOT be flush as reference photographs indicate there are strakes above and below this strake. To make this "flush" would require adding strakes above and below it as well. Therefore, I did not add a strake here.
What is missing, however, is a lower panel line here, as indicated....

 
Panel line added, Port Aft.....

 
Starboard side aft. I used the edge of an erasing shield as a guide for the scriber, (both Port and Starboard).....

 
And the result....

 
And finally, regarding the strake circled in blue.....
Again....this part of the kit mold is already flush. To add a strake here introduces yet another inaccuracy. For the same reason. Referencing historical photographs shows that there were strakes above and below this strake. To make it accurate would require strakes above and below to be added as well.
But that begs the question, where does it end? I have come to the conclusion that the kit hull has LOTS of inaccuracies. How much? 20%? 30%? I have no idea and I'm not about to try and find out.
My model is not going to be a museum piece. Myself and my wife are essentially going to be the only ones who see the completed project. And anyone else who does see it will not know in the slightest.
Having said that, I still have lots to do to the hull to correct other inaccuracies. I have already committed in my own mind to do so. But chasing the inaccuracies of the double strakes ends here, for me.
 
Thanks for looking. Suggestions are welcome.
 
Cheers,
Mark  
 

Continuing onward. Mini Brass Hull Details PE aftermarket kit. This is my first experience with photo etch. Looking forward to it. I think I'll do the Condenser Discharge Ports first.

 
Cheers,
Mark

On to the next phase of rigging the yards. I have prepped all the blocks for the sheets, tacks and clew lines. Because of the use of the stock blocks that come with a Billing kit, I have painted them all black with 2 coats of Humbrol paint. A bit tedious to say the least but worth the effort. There are also a number of coils ready to hang from the belaying pins once the rigging starts.
 

On to the next phase of rigging the yards. I have prepped all the blocks for the sheets, tacks and clew lines. Because of the use of the stock blocks that come with a Billing kit, I have painted them all black with 2 coats of Humbrol paint. A bit tedious to say the least but worth the effort. There are also a number of coils ready to hang from the belaying pins once the rigging starts.
 

Once the decks are on it's time to start working on the inboard veneers. These are not as easy to work with as the concept might sound. The veneers are beautiful, but also thin and therefore brittle and prone to warping when wet, as when coated with wood glue. I learned this last bit through trial and error -- mainly error. I got the port veneer on in one piece, luckily. The starboard side had some fit issues -- only the first gun port cutout aligned properly; the others were off by about 0.5mm. So I did this:
 

 
I then glued in the forward piece and trimmed the second piece so it would align properly.
 
And then things went south.
 
The aft piece of veneer resisted not one but TWO attempts to glue in and seat properly thanks to the veneer's aggravating tendency to curl when wet. There's a narrow channel between the deck and bulwark that the veneer is supposed to be seated in, and curling didn't help. Each time I pulled the veneer off I had to scrape the cured glue out of the channel with a dental pick. Then I did this:
 

 
This allowed me to install the piece in smaller chunks. Things worked out this time.
 

 
The process is going rather slowly because I am first wetting, shaping, drying, and varnishing the veneers before installing them, so there's a lot of drying time added to the schedule.
 
That's it for now! Next up will be the quarterdeck veneers, followed by the covering boards.

The name "Blanco de Sal" is odd, since it literally means "white of salt." I think whoever manufactured that curio meant to say "Barco de Sal," which means "ship of salt."

On to the next phase of rigging the yards. I have prepped all the blocks for the sheets, tacks and clew lines. Because of the use of the stock blocks that come with a Billing kit, I have painted them all black with 2 coats of Humbrol paint. A bit tedious to say the least but worth the effort. There are also a number of coils ready to hang from the belaying pins once the rigging starts.
 

Hi All,
Update time....
 
Over the past few weeks, I have not been a "Slouch...."
I have continued on the Masts/Yards.
 
(I know the Hull needs some love, I'll get on to this after I have drilled holes for Pedestal threaded rods.)
 
Today I painted the various Mast components and put them together, (Without Glue at this stage (With the exception of Mainmast fittings and alternate Mast Caps to enable disassembly.)), to see if everything lined up. Not too bad, some touch-up work required.
Mast Coats brought all Masts into line and the Mast Plug-In Housings were a real bonus. (I am pleased that I spent the time on these.)
(The Top Mast Tops/Backstay Spreaders are yet to be assembled/painted. (The Tops require small holes for Topmast Yard Lift Blocks.
 
Mast Coats required quite a bit of work to get them to fit as did the majority of Mast/Yard fittings.
 
I assembled the Yards, again, no glue at this stage apart from the inboard Stunsail Boom fittings. (Yards need painting first, Bocks installed and then Stunsail Booms/Jackstays, Etc.)
 
So, there you have it!!
 
A footnote: Some castings are extremely brittle.... 🙂
 
Cheers....HOF.
 
Photos: