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RGL

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Everything posted by RGL

  1. Bow stays complete for the moment. Now to make rope! Could take a while.
  2. I've been procrastinating with this next bit, with shift work and kids, I finally disciplined myself and put off doing the ironing to work on the bowsprit collars and stepping the bowsprit. Each of the collars had to be stropped first which is remarkably easy, as was the lashing eventually. Once I finish off a few more stays I shall try my hand at a ropewalk for the preventers.
  3. I think my biggest regret with mine was using the kit supplied wood for the deck, I've replaced all of the other wood. I think you'll get a better result with a harder and less waxy wood. It will make the scarph joints a lot easier
  4. You sir, are a truly gifted artist, can't wait to see the sails! Catgut?
  5. I suppose you just have to pick a side. It's always going to vary, everyone is doing a great job on their own version of every ship here, it's about the process. If you're happy with what you decide to follow, I'm happy!
  6. I got lucky and found the 2 volume set in a second hand book store for $40
  7. Kiro, I'm pretty much doing it off the Anatomy of the ship series book as i gave up on the Al instructions years ago. . There is also Parkin's Endeavour as well. Happy to help out if you're at a loss. 1/24 is huge! Greg
  8. The bumpkin discussion revitalised on MSW v2! I'm really stuck with them now but happy with them until I have to do the anchors some time on the distant future. Looking forward to seeing my fellow Endevour builders renditions of their bows, but shift work really does slow down construction, as I've still got 16 years till retirement at 60. I may get to the yards by then.
  9. The AOTS rigging plan is vague on this whole component, so the front of the ship is going to get very busy. The glad wrap is just my dust cover.
  10. Next, the Bumpkins shrouds, served and with an hook on one side and dead eyes on the other. A twin set of dead eyes are served to the end of the bumpkin itself. After a small failure (I didn't serve it strong enough) they are fitted under a fair bit of stress. Whilst the ropes still look fuzzy I will set them some some in the future with diluted PVA but want the freedom of removing them in case of emergency.
  11. The bumpkin fittings have them stuck to a support timber on the deck in a metal bracket at an angle of 36 degrees. They run under the catheads and I had to ensure that the catheads straddled them so the anchor fittings and ropes will fall properly.
  12. Bumpkins. Several months ago I fabricated the bumpkins and with Danny's sage advice put them away. I'm at that stage now where I have to place them. It's a chicken and egg exercise as they fit under the bowsprit that they going to get into the road regardless. Now some models of the Endeavour don't seem to have Bumpkins but sticking to the ATOS I am stuck with them.
  13. But you'd be annoyed with yourself if you did'nt if you're not satisfied with what you've done already
  14. I have added some photos of the Shrouds that I took from the replica whilst it was in Cairns harbour back at the turn of the century. I had bought the kit back then and had,not really put a great deal of thought of what to photgraph, but considering nearly no one owned a digital camera then, I would obviousty take a lot more now. I like the way all the worming is done in a practical way that will cover a lot of sins for me. Also it displays the shroud cleats. Hope some of my fellow Endeavour adventurers find it useful. I will step and lash the bowspirit next before I set the shrouds permantly so I can keep the tensions correct when the stays are on place. Soooo much more to go. Greg
  15. Progress! I have added mast tacke and shrouds to the formast. The topmost areas served, and the first and third (leading) shrouds served the whole way. I have decided that the worming is way too long and will completley redo the whole lot, none of the seizing is glued so 2 days of work gone, but all good practice. I do not to look back at it and regret something based upn laziness. Anyway I'm deciding what colour rigging to use on the worming yet. I'll then add the shroud cleats. I intend to do the bowspirit next and the stays, so I want to have that done prior to adding the final tightening of them so it won't upset the ratlines and catharpins. Happy to take advice on this folks which process works best. Quick answer to the last question, the AL kit comes with one wood pulp ship's boat, which I thinned out and double planked, the rest were scratch built on a frame. I'm also not adding sails but there is a method of streching a wet sail over a glass bowl that will give the appearance of a billowing under wind (period ship modellling by Reed).
  16. Thanks folks, finally stepped the fore mast and starting the shrouds, will post photos soon
  17. Pat, I used the AOTS for the cleats. There are a few contradictions, so you have to reference them against the belaying plans. I sat down Sunday afternoon after wresting the computer from the kids and just went through the folders that I had organised as the build progressed. I did cheat a bit and purchased the Caldercraft photoetch set for their Endeavour. The cleats, cannons and hooks were all after market. I have ordered a few varied sets of rigging blocks from JB models now I'm up to the rigging to see if they are better than I can repliclate and save me two years work. Marc, I used toothpicks for the first layer to give it strgength, cutting them off with flush cutters. For the second layer, I used bamboo BBQ skewers cut into thirds then sliced vertically then put them through a 0.2 drawplate.
  18. I use the process as meditation as I tell myself I won't finish for years. I love the ability to buy small tools without buying big stuff so the wife doesn't notice.
  19. Up to date, after several years. The new site is really easy to upload to and file sizes are bigger and quicker. Well done. I am up to fitting masts and I am spending a lot of time serving shrouds. The mast coats again used plastic backed foil from Lindor chocolates. It works really well.
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