RGL
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Everything posted by RGL
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Mate, if you're happy I'm happy. Good to see so many endeavour builders have joined us, even if I've flitted over to the dark side for a while. -
I have never worked with resin, and I was some what apprehensive. The prop shafts are on a sprue for want of a better word I supose. I eventually cut them off and accidentally clipped off a little noggin on the end of one, thinking crap, scratch build here were come. 1 obscure photo in the instructions set me right that it was supposed to be cut off. Who knew! The instructions also told me to use a 1mm rod (not provided or numbered) so luckily had and used 1mm steel rod to align them onto the hull untill I can get some 1mm brass rod and blacken it. It has not been glued in but will act as a prace for protectioon. The braces have to be drilled all the way though to have one continious shaft. . really happy to take resin tips from the pros.
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Bilge keel added, its a piece of resin for each side. Thought I may as well get the resin bits on the hull done as I have ordered a photo etch tool and do not want to touch the stuff till it gets here. I was going to add the small anchors to the hull but there is no reference to them at all in the Artwox instructions (Serioulsy they are fairly crap). The photos from Artwox show the anchor and a set of braces but make no reference to them. As you can see from the book and the enlarged photos on the fret, they are there. The Eduard anchor is nothing but that, a small anchor.
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Time to join the hull pieces togeather, which go with a minimum of fuss and putty to hide the seams. I could not find a decent set of pedestals anywhere on the net (there was one set at $85 before shipping from the US - no thanks). I then had a mind storm and remembered I had some $2 brass rod which I had in my spares. I cut down each to an easy working size (and can be cut down further and polished up when the model is finished. I then used some offcut wood pieces, cut into 4 square pieces, 2 of which I drilled to the diameter of the rod, then stuck one drilled piece to a not drilled piece to make a sturdy slot to hold the rod. Both pieces were then glued onto the inner hull each. An offcut of a floorboard aligned with the rods as a base will allow me to go hands off with the model. The rods are not glued (they done't need to be as the model can slide on and off depending what I need to do with it.
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Thanks, I just looked at your Olympia and I have a lot to learn. I just attacjed the lifering cage at the stern. The eduard fret is a lot easier to use with this little bugger, I destroyed the Artwox one.
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There is a small boom arm on either side that is obviously used to lower small things. The eduard photo etch shows a large arm and the Artwox is smaller arm with a block attached. Easy choice. First set of spares i suppose.
- 174 replies
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Steps complete. I did not shave off the hull steps that were on the original hull as I wanted a guide. It worked out that the prt side has less steps than the starbord side so I actually had enough. Note for beginners I suppose, I scribed a line above the bulges that are supposed to be steps and using a pin ran some CA and then used tweazers to place the individual steps. i did not do this on the starboard side so the alignment is not as good.
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Thanks Slog, I really don't think I'm good enough to do a card model. Imagine what the cat would do to that!
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A quick update, I ordered and received the Varyag nameplate fret from Northstar models which includes the coat of arms and nameplate for the stern (Eduardo & Artwox have omitted both) as well as the ship's wheel and telegraph. The steps included in the Eduardo fret are nice but are 10 short, so the only place in the world that has them in stock are North Star (Latvia!) I love internet shopping but it will probably take a month to arrive which will cause me the re think my building plan. I'm really keen to figure out how to rig it and have ordered the Varyag book. Wooden ships really teach you to plan months if not years ahead when it comes to rigging as the belaying points are completely inaccessible once something is stuck on the hull so it has to be done before it is attached. Nice to have a new distraction. Wish it was in a bigger scale.
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HMB Endeavour by mikec - Eaglemoss
RGL replied to mikec's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Just great work mate -
Ok, 2 days work on half a hull. I've used Dafi's scaling system of a Tic Tac as everyones coins are different. Drilled out the portholes and started on the photo etch. The Artwox fret has the hatches, the Eduard Fret has the footrails and the steps. I need to get some really fine grain sandpaper for a bit of tidy up from the CA. You can see at the bow how I've started to sand off the scrollwork as the Artwox kit leaves it as is but Eduard provide one. It's been such a long time since I've usd Photo etch I've forgotten how fiddley it is. The steps are microscopic, and whilst they look a little out of line, in the broad view it won't really matter.
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The contents of the box; lots of resin, 2 sheets of photoetch, a false brass deck, a wooden deck, the hull, lots of little brass rods, and instructions. Also is the Eduard frets. As I progress I will compare the pair, but I have already noted that the wheelhouse for the Artwox kit is resin where the Eduard is photoetch, and Eduard includes the Bow decorations where as Artwox omits it. Eduard also does not included the hatches on the hull. Neither kit has a decent rendition of the rails on the hull. Artvox does not bother and it is only representative with Eduard. The steps on the hull are not included in the Artwox and the Eduard fret has them.
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I needed a change of scenery after a 10 year build on my Endeavour. I couldn't face another long term challange. Months ago I found the Artwox Varyag on the net on an overseas site and liked it a lot, but shipping to Oz is usually a nightmare. I found the kit at BNA Models at a reasonable price and thought that itn would be a nice change as I have not done a plastic model this century. I suppose the advantage of a late 1800's early 1900's kit has the advantage of real photos. Also the aftermarket range of goodies for plastic kits is great, as plastic is a lot more unforgiving than wood. The Artwox kit only has the original Zvesda hull, with their own false deck, wooden deck, resin, photoetch and barrels. The instructions are fairly good but without other references I would be lost. After having done a tall ship model, I now know how important the rigging plans are (the kit has none) and I have orderd the Kagero book. There are some things missing from the Artwox photoetch fret which are included in the Eduard kit and vice versa, so I also got that.
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A rigging plan would be nice too. I just bought the kit as well.
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Thanks folks, Just ordered the Artvox Varyag super kit for a change of pace.
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How do I change the title?
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Job complete. Very little of the AL kit was used, and as I said to my 10 year old last night, I started this when you were a baby, it's now in this glass box and you can do whatever you want with it after I'm dead, as it's not going anywhere.
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The very last bits, after 10 years, order the flags from BECC in the UK, 5 days all up to OZ
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Tree nails nearly did my head in but it was worth it, looking good mate.
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The last of the rigging. The ships longboat being brought in. Fiddly work. The flagstaff are attached and I am just awaiting the flags to arrive before she will be complete.
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The research I have done showed that the Fore and main yards were braced with tackle from the topgallants when lowering a boat or heavy load. There was a sling attached to the yard to take the hook.
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I have re varnished the base and attached the pedestals. I also use some brass rods to act as support struts to hopefully keep the ship from future cat tipping
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I'm in the process of varnishing the base, pedestals ready to go, I have bought a display case, flags ordered from the UK, just have to rig the final ships boat being lowered into the water. I reckon it'll be planted in my front hall in a fortnight where it will sit till I die or the bloody cat tips it over. The plan is a few OT shifts and then order the Bluejacket Atlantic which no one seems to have done, just don't tell the bride.
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