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RGL
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Back to the front of the bus, and time to start on the bridge. The armored citadel fits quite snugly, but I am still not overly happy with this as the roof is not domed enough. The spare anchor is chained up and stuck the magazine elevators. The brown bits on the side are the capstan poles. The struts for the actual fly bridge are tiny and quite hard to line up. next will be the railings.
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That's the thing about plastic, you can't just bin it and start over. After doing a 10 year build on a wooden ship and redoing lots of mistakes, I'm finding the amount of pre fitting is far more time consuming. Good to see another plastic build here! I shall follow with great interest.
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- S-100
- KreigsMarine
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Now onto the vents. The photos of the ship show ratchets to turn the larger vents into the wind, the kit makes no mention of them. Using some .3mm rod I made up handles for the large vents and stretched sprue at about.1mm for the smaller ones. A bit of black wash then attached. Many more to go on the kit but they do not need these attachments.
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Next are the rails which the lifeboat davits will sit on. This was the most difficult part of the build to date. The instructions really are pathetic, leaving me to guess as to what to do, and the photo etch is like working with aluminum foil it is so thin and bends very easily and mistakes are just not retrievable.
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Today I got to throw together a heap of stuff that has taken ages to prepare. First the hatch covers. You can see from the tic ta, the size is small and a zoom lens brings out fault that are not really visible in person
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The final bits of the amidships before I start on the railings for the ships boats. the kit includes two cable reels which I replaced and put handles on which are in all the reference material I can find. Then the ammo hoists which you can see from the diagrams would of course require doors or hatches to access the ammo. I found a photo from a Russian site that depicts these doors on another ship but quite frankly at 1/350 I cannot replicate so I stuck some rounded hatches on.
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I glued on the amidships structures as the life raft railings will be attached to them. Not happy with the doors, I added aftermarket doors on top of the ones already placed on their so they actually show up. I also added hatches to some of the structures that are in the designs which are not included in the kit.This included a door not mentioned anywhere but the design plans that are the entry to the Coaling hatchways.
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Bollards. yet again, do not drink coffee. The smaller ones are about 1mm. If you choose to build this kit please for the love of god do it off the model and not on it like I did. The detail is lovely but just tiny. they have a little bit of gloss from the glue which I will paint over. There are 4 fairleads in the instructions, 5 provided in the kit, which i used to place on the stern which the constructors drawings depict.
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Continuing on, note to self, do not drink coffee whilst doing this stuff, the shakes does not do well for alignment at this scale. This is two equipment boxes that sit in front of the first funnel and a skylight. The little resign piece beside the skylight is the Artwox one which is tiny and keeping in line with the rest of the build I used the Eduard one. The larger equipment box is the Eduard one so I used the more petite Artwox one which comes in 2 pieces, being an open ended box and a double door which is attached to the top. It is not mentioned in the instructions at all but appears on the photos and is included in the fret. .
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Then finally time to bite the bullet and glue down the deck. The middle and stern deck does not need gluing. Just drops in snugly. The bow deck does need gluing but they are all 99% flush. There is a slight gap where the hull meets the resin part with I will block up with some card. The next step is all the belaying points as the same as a tall ship it will be rear impossible to get to the points when the deck furniture is added. If you look closely at the bow and stern you will see tiny little holes where I am going to attach individual stanchions and run individual wire rope between them. The upper railings are just that, railings.
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Being a bit lost, I thought that it was time to get serious and just do what I could with the deck and attach it. The ladders are from the Eduard fret and I used little bits of wood on the outside to frame them so they would not drop into the hull.
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I've been meandering around particular parts of the ship with no real direction so far. I painted the funnels with Tamiya Spray for the black and Humbrol acrylic for the yellow (Tamiya don't do a matt). Also the multitude of vents in the flat yellow with a red inside.
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The thing is with closed spaces you can overcapitalize. The inside of this is just tiny, so I did up the panels inside, voice tubes, wheel, binnacle, leather lounges that are just visible in the photo and the blueprints. You can't see much once closed up but it's still visible. The floor was a photo of a spotted lounge I once owned in the 1990's sans the girl sitting on it.
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HMB Endeavour by mikec - Eaglemoss
RGL replied to mikec's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Magnificent just love the detail on the mouse. -
next is the armored citadel and bridge section. The instructions are just woeful here, so a lot of guesswork. Part 27 is not mentioned in the instructions at all (I've drawn the number in pencil) but somewhat important. The two bridges, the metal one from Eduard and the boring little piece of resin from Artwox. I'll be using the Eduard piece and doing in the inside. The mast holes need to be widened to accommodate the Master Models Masts. The citadel roof should be curved but it's not. Apart from that fairly strait forward.
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Funnels complete. The slowest part was ensuring the rings on the funnels stayed in as they are soo tiny the glue did not want to hold. Whilst some of the ladders look a little out of alignment as they will be facing forward it will not be obvious (I hope). The flue on the final funnel has three pipes which were made with brass pipe, and the vents on top were cut off the resin and plonked on top. The top and bottom halves have not been glued yet so as to allow them to be painted separately, black on top and yellow below.
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Those ropes look so real! Just magnificent work mate.
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- Armed Virginia Sloop
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Using a aftermarket set of flue rings in 1/700 scale I have made up belaying points, as well as replacing the flue with .4mm brass tube for the flue. I have finished 1 so far and that took 2 days. I used the top funnel rings from the Eduard fret which had to be cut down to sit flush. I will not glue them until they are individually painted, yellow on the bottom and black on the top.
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Noe the research. Each funnel has rings for the tops of the funnels, flue rings, and belaying point for the rigging. The Eduard fret provides the funnel rings but they are out of scale and need to be trimmed.
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As there is no linear progression to the kit, I thought I'd make a start on the funnels. The Artwox resin comes in 8 pieces and only the front funnels was in reverse which is fairly easy to fix. They each have a flue and photo etch ladders and spirerweb thin grates for the tops.
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OH&S wins every time
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After 3 days, the companionways are finally complete and back into a box for safety. The blueprints prove my point on their design. I made 10 (it needs 9) as an emergency. A bit of black wash to bring out the details and a dry fit on the deck.
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So, back to the drawing board. I used a .4mm brass rod to make the top rung, cut offs to make the side rungs and then the remaining frets of large companion ways to utalise the third and centre arch. To put the size in perspective when in my hand this is bloody fiddly. My head hurts. I now have to attach the rims with the dogs on them and do the doors then paint the base, black on the outside and white on the inside and leave the struts in brass. The photos of what i expect is the Varyag post the battle with the Japanese and a more modern photo is what I expect came from a refit.
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