Tigersteve

Ben….that looks so nice.  I really beautiful planking job.  Folks who are not building the winnie should know that this hull is so much bigger than it appears in photos.  That is quite a achievement on a hull that size.

Lower Planking has finally been completed and 1st sanding to 220grit, I just added the stern post and will now sand everything to 400grit and apply some WOP.
I'm Pretty happy overall with how it came out, there were a few issues around the tuck of the counter, the flow up the bow came out Ok and the Frame reveal is as I had planned it. I don't know if I would use Holly again for an entire hull as its damn expensive these days ( more than boxwood $$$$ ) but I like the color and it looks even better in natural light with a good contrast to the wales.
That's the end of Chapter 2.
 
Ben

Well done!

windows proces plus first Columns. 
 
 
 

Prior to installing the boat on the display base, strips of brown felt were glued for a custom fit. Three days of rigging the buckets with handles and rope coils using Syren ULTRA scale rope completed the model. I did my best to tie sheet bend knots, although that detail is difficult to notice at this scale. This was an enjoyable project and I learned a lot. Thank you David for designing this kit and keeping an eye on the build. Ryland Craze and Mike Stuntflyer, our exchanges on paint strategies and finishes was invaluable. I hope the rest of you will continue to follow as I get back to the Mayflower- Model Shipways.
Steve

It has been almost two months since my last post but I have been busy doing small projects.  Having recently completed a capstan in 1:16 scale, it was time to duplicate my efforts at 1:48.  If you have purchased the Capstan Project, I used the approach outlined in the advanced version.  The capstan on a ship of this size and from this era has five whelps and six bars.  I turned the spindle in a lathe and then used a mill to make it ten-sided.  The pencil marks are to help the edges stand out.  

The whelps were glued-up as a sandwich; the thickness was the maximal thickness of the whelp.  The sandwich was then glued to a block of wood, which was put into the mill vice.  The face was milled and the whelps were separated by soaking in isopropanol.  I made a few extra to allow for mistakes.  The whelp is wider at the bottom and on its face.  The final shape was achieved with a sanding stick.

The drumhead was made from four semicircular pieces and a cap.  I used thin adhesive-backed copper sheet as the iron ring.  I used liver of sulfur to give the copper a patina.

After the whelps were glued to the spindle, the chocks were made and installed and the bolts were installed.  The iron ring looks much better than the photo would suggest.  And the final result...

The next item I needed to address was the decorative molding.  The plans show the molding at the level of the bottom of the gunports.  The model shows the molding halfway up the gun ports.  The plan shows the bottom of the oar ports raised by the width of the molding.  The model shows them at the same level as the gun ports.
 
As it turned out, I (accidentally) built them at the same level, as shown on the model.  If I left the molding where it is seen in the plan, it would have gone through the oar ports.  So my choices were to rebuild the upper works to lower the oar ports or raise the molding, as seen on the model.  I went to the RMG site and looked at other models with oar ports; they were most commonly positioned at the same level as the gun ports.  Therefore, I decided to move the molding instead of the oar ports.  
 
The ship has eleven swivel gun mounts on each side, although she only carried eight guns.  These were located per the plan.  They were notched to fit over the rail.  Bolt holes were drilled.  The metal work will be installed later.  

 
The cathead and cathead knee were made next.  The cathead was sawn from a single piece wood.  Two sheaves were installed.  The cathead knee was made up of three pieces, as seen in the picture below; the final shape was attained with sanding drum and disc.  The cathead and knee were then temporarily installed.  No finish has been applied to either the swivel posts or the cathead.  As you can see in the third picture, the tops of the swivel posts have not been shaped yet.  They will be horizontal across ship and will parallel the shear when seen from the side.  Also temporarily fitted are the first oar port and gun port covers.  They will all be hinged horizontally.



Other small items which have been installed are the cleats (three per side) and the mast coats.  The entry ladders, pumps and capstan are temorarily in place.  

 
 

Continue to lay the ribs. This part of the progress is slow.
 

 
 

 
 
 

Spent Labour Day working on Bluenose - specifically the cabin construction. I've not yet completed it - with the skylight, binnacle and stovepipe still to add - but so far this has been a fun little mini-build. It's a lot of fun to put these deck features together - one of my favourite parts of ship modelling (other than tying ratlines, obviously)!
 
I took patterns from the deck framing drawings for the general outline of all the superstructural elements on deck, then transferred these to card stock and made templates for the general "footprint" of these elements as well as for the fore and aft panels of the cabin, which curve in line with the deck camber. I started by edge gluing some 1/16" x 1/8" strips together, then trimming these built up panels to the correct size and shape. I then added internal reinforcements (1/8" square pieces) and also reinforced the whole assembly by adding a base cut from a sheet of 1/32" lime and some 1/8" square battens on this. After that it was pretty straightforward - I used some leftover parts for the portholes and went with a different colour scheme than the one suggested on the plans - neutral grey (like the waterways) in place of burnt umber. I made the companionway frames a bit too wide for the 3/16" door panels, but I had a 1/32" x 1/32" strip that worked perfectly as a divider...some brass nails serve as door handles. Anyway, it's a little rustic looking, but I'm decently happy with the results. Now that a new working year has begun, I'm going to have to restrict my modelling to weekend mornings for a while....in the meantime....enjoy the photos!
hamilton

Harshil and Steve, thank you for your kind comments! They are much appreciated. And thanks for all the likes.
Harshil, the tank in the background is the beginning of a model of the self-propelled field howitzer M107. It is based on the Tamiya kit, which again goes back to the old Italeri kit. I got it as a birthday present from my son. What I like about the kit is that it got the big dimensions right, but there is a lot of room for improvement where all the details are concerned. So the modeling challenge and fun is to build and replace/add all the coarse/missing details. With my chronic lack of modeling time it will take me several months to do so, but once finished it will be a worthwhile model. And as you know by now, I like details 😉
On your request I am going to add one picture of the current state of the model. Only the self-propelled gun carriage has a first coat of paint, and a big part of the gun is not even glued together. 
 
Thomas
 

Well worth the wait. Superb work! One of my favorite build logs. 
Steve

A square strip is provided in the kit to create the thole pins. I rounded the strip and pre-painted before cutting 1/4” pieces. Test fitting before applying glue will give you an idea how much time is needed to set the pins.
 
After the glue dries, lightly sand the pins to the same height. Touch up the paint afterwards. It was difficult to capture a good photo of the result. 
Steve
 

Testor’s Dullcote does not react well with Tamiya paints. I was getting a spotty, eggshell type finish. To recover, I sanded the surfaces most affected and repainted. Lesson learned. Test finishes off model. I will be using different paints going forward. Also, do not use Wipe-On-Poly over paint unless you want a sheen. I wish I took this advice on previous models. 
 
I over worked the sanding of the oars and have requested replacement parts from Model Expo. While I wait for those parts, I will construct the buckets and start the rope work on the model. I purchased Syren rope for this.  
 
I worked on the layout for the nameplate. Measurements are 3.25” x .25”. I will get that made at a local trophy shop. Very inexpensive and adds a nice finishing touch to the project.
 
Thank you Mike Stuntflyer and Ryland Craze for your assistance on the paint finishes.  I learned a lot from our exchanges. 
Steve

Some golden glow ..😃
 
 
 

 

Finished the quarterdeck completely.
I decided to go with a look allowing maximal views of the main deck structures, planking along the mid-line as far as to enclose the coamings. Added a small area of planking next to the port bulwarks to mount 2 six pounders (the viewing side will be the starboard), and 2 small pieces for the binnacles.
As is my wont, I am my own worst enemy. I discovered (not until adding the piece for the deck planking to abut against) that somehow I drifted off the mid-line with my coamings and carlings as they moved forward. Arrgh. So a fair amount of jiggery-pokery to mitigate to the extent possible the resulting disruptions of the symmetry of the planking and the main rail. I guess it's my next build that will be perfect.
I'll take a bit of a short break before starting on the fore deck, as I have several packs building up for my Agora 427 Cobra model crying for my attention.

After a little break the longboat is finally at its place, and I can start with the rigging.
 
Thomas
 
 
 

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Very nice work as usual, B.E.
Steve

The white wood represents the pine, that was generelly used for deck planking, the pear represents the oak, used for important structural planking, and is darker.
 
As for me, specially by such wunderfull builds, the used wood does not matter, but the handwork, that is by marsalv simply incredible. I'm out of words.
 
Regards
 
Alex

Thank you Matt.
Forecastle deck planking.

Good morning.

Thank you Steve, I’m away at the coast, almost reluctantly, as I’m keen to resume the build with the first major modification in progress.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.
 

Very nice work as usual, B.E.
Steve

I have entertained myself this week building Chuck’s delightful little mini kit of the double Capstan derived from his HMS Winchelsea kit.

3534(3)
At 1:48 scale it won’t unfortunately fit the forthcoming Sphinx build but it will sit in her case as an example of such a device of the mid-18th century.
 
I am ahead of the game in one respect, I have already made the 22’ Yawl which will also be supplied with the kit.

610(2)
At least one tiny element of the Sphinx build will be rigged.

620(2)

631
I have already decided to have only the Pinnace displayed on the hull so the Yawl too will sit within the case of the completed Sphinx.
 
B.E.
20/08/2021
 

 
 

I started today by marking the waterline with a home made jig I put together.  It wasn't the best in the world but it did the trick.  I simply drilled a hole into a piece of scrap and used a square to make sure I was vertical.  I got the height measurement from the drawing using the bottom of the keel as a reference.  I measured the distance from the keel to the water line closest to the rudder and added the distance the ship was sitting off the surface in the jig.
 

 
Once I had it marked I masked off the area then proceeded to spray paint the red lower portion.  I will try painting the black upper section tomorrow.  Because of the white base coat, I will use that to incorporate the stripe in the hull.  I'm not sure what I will do for the yellow stripe yet.  I may use vinyl strip as David has mentioned above.  It may be the easiest.
 
It seems that my problems with the bow cap rail actually revert back to the stern.  Because I needed to extend the distance at the bow, I realized that the stern was sitting back a little too far.  Not that it overhung too far off the back.  Somewhere, I made something not completely correctly or built something to a slightly wrong dimension which resulted in a small misalignment.  The main sheet boom buffer wouldn't fit under the bench so I had to slightly extend it by about 1/8".  Shown below are before and after pics.
 

Hello. I Made false deck & masts holders & started navalhoods and co. In reality its in scale small even fór laser cut so I abandoned idea and painted IT around template. 
Only started yet...thank you fór viewing etc...
 
 
 
 

Beautiful model Steve.  The added details sets you model out from the other builds that I have seen.