Tim Curtis

Great progress. Look forward to seeing these sails up and flying...

Quick Update. 
Decking and rails installed. Painted the longboat. Name letters added.
Once again discovering that the hardest thing to manage is paint. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Current state. Definitely not perfect but I feel like I'm learning quite a bit about patience.
 
I am a bit stuck though. How do I go about permanently attaching the shroud plates? It says to nail them but I'm not certain how to go about doing that.
 
I'll search the site today but if anyone knows a build log or a video that shows a beginner how to do that, I would greatly appreciate being pointed to it. Thanks.
 

Completed so far....
 


Still working on sails...
 

 

 

 

 


 


Happy modelling...

What a lovely job you are doing at this ship! Great!

Quick Update. 
Decking and rails installed. Painted the longboat. Name letters added.
Once again discovering that the hardest thing to manage is paint. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Painted the hull last night.

 

 
And the first color on the deck.

Hi.  I am new to Model Ship World.  I began building the Flying Fish in early 2006 and worked on it slowly over the next 6 years.  And there is remained gathering dust until this month, when I decided to pick it up again in hope of taking it to completion.  As can be seen in the photos I will be adding, the Hull has been completed and the deck structure are at an advanced state of completion.  I look forward to meeting others of you who are also working on this model.  
 
 
 
Jared

And done! A few last bits of railing, a half-dozen davits, the catwalk between the turret and bridge, and a couple of bridge navigation lights constituted the final tasks. I bought a small display case from Hobby Lobby -- the kind used for 1/18 scale collectible cars -- and am going to create a base using the blue cloth seen in the photos. I'll post a pic to show how it turned out.
 

 

 

Construction continues with the railings. All of the railings are made using the kit-supplied template, but they must be made in three separate sets: superstructure, deck, and turret. We begin with the forward superstructure and bridge.
 

 
The railing are made from quilting thread, glued with dilute white glue, stiffened with several coats of matte clear spray, and finally painted, trimmed, and glued to the model. I just now noticed a bent stanchion in the photo, which can easily be fixed, because the finished railings are still a little "bendy" and can be manipulated a bit with tweezers.

Dear colleagues and friends,
 
Thank you all very much for your comments, kind words and support. It means a lot to me and I am pleased that you like the Royal Katherine model in my rendition.
It was a really great challenge when I decided four years ago whether to go for it or not, but despite many difficulties during the building, I do not regret this decision. At the same time, I fulfilled another modeling dream, which I was able to share with you and almost to the end with my husband George. The realisation of this project brought me not only the joy of the hobby itself, but also learning and possibility of expanding the knowledge horizons about real ships, their construction and history.
My main intention was to strive for the most realistic model reconstruction of the real appearance of the Royal Katherine and to point out the various shortcomings and inaccuracies that we often encounter in documents and plans of sailboat models. In addition, I tried to create my model without the use of special tools and from the most available materials as an example of the fact that even a very modest background is not an obstacle to creating a nice and quality model, which makes this hobby available to almost everyone.
 
None of us can know what the future will bring, but I definitely do not want to give up my hobbies and when I find enthusiasm for a new and interesting project again, I will share it with you. 
 

 
Kind regards and all the best, 

Doris

Hi Tim
 
Yes I am at Corsham Baptist. We planted a church 6 years ago just up the road and I spend most of my time serving that congregation. 
 
Ministry has had its fair share of challenges and unexpected opportunities over the past year. But I think we’re doing okay. Hope you, your family and your church are doing well too. I appreciate your prayers very much and have prayed for you this morning too.
 
One of the appealing things about this hobby to me is that if I have a time when ministry doesn't allow any work to happen on the boat, it just wants patiently and I can pick it up again when I'm ready. Quite rightly family and faith come first
 
I'm glad you like Ethalion. She's still under a plastic sheet waiting for a display case. 
 
Rob
 
 
 
 

Some small progress and slightly better quality photos of my significantly adapted build. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

Some small progress and slightly better quality photos of my significantly adapted build. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

From one time-poor church minister to another, that's a very handsome vessel you have there. The detailing around the stern quarter - especially the windows look very fine, and I really like the colour scheme with the copper bottom and the blue accents on the upper works. 
 
Do keep posting your progress
 
Rob

Some small progress and slightly better quality photos of my significantly adapted build. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

Beautifully made. Very neat and tidy. 
Tim

Beautifully made. Very neat and tidy. 
Tim

Hello Folks,
After several weeks I made progress on the hull of Revenue Cutter:
I applied the final primer coat (Grey Tamiya Spray)
 

 

 

 
I applied Testors Enamel Flat Black spray paint, I really like this paint. I am usually a Tamiya & Vallejo person. I also applied several coats of Tamiya Flat Clear to protect the finish, I learned this on my Yankee Hero Build.
 

 

 
I then penciled out the waterline, I was concerned over using a pencil on the black hull, however it was a piece of cake. I could clearly see the waterline. The plans do a nice job at helping to determine where to locate the waterline on the hull. I needed to do the waterline on the only real level place in the house with a lot of natural light. Used my level to ensure the waterline was fair on both sides.
 

 

 
Then it was on to the masking, I used something new; Tamiya flexible masking tape. It worked great, I was almost able to mask the entire side of the hull with one piece of tape. I used regular masking tape to mask above the waterline. I then applied a coat of Model Master Flat Black on the edge of the tape to create a seal to prevent the copper paint from going under the tape. I found the adhesion of the Tamiya tape to be on the light side, so I took the additional step that I learned from Blue Jacket. It hasn't failed me yet.
 

 

 
I then sprayed the bottom of the hull with Model Master Enamel Copper with my Iwata Neo Airbrush. I am learning to get better with the airbrush, cleaning it is a drag however the results are well worth it I believe.
 

 

 
I then unmasked it carefully. I am looking forward to copper plating the hull, I think the copper undercoat will hide whatever gaps I encounter on that journey. I am somewhat intimidated of plating the hull, especially because I do not have the steadiest of hands. I will give it a shot, I followed sjanicki's build to help along, as well as the links he posted in his awesome Revenue Cutter build.
 

 

 
 
 

 
That's it folks for this post, onto reading about plating and checking some other builds with plating. I hope everyone out there in MSW world is doing well.
 

Beginning to make hooks and strop 2mm blocks to fit to the cannons.
First two done after trying a few different techniques.
These boys are quite small. Glad I only have 50 more to go....

 

The next step is to start cutting out the planks in swiss pear to match the precut planks in the kit. This is really easy and takes about 5 or 10 mins per plank.
I glued the kit plank to the strip of pear with UHU, so that they can be easily separated later. Then carefully cut around the plank with a sharp scalpel.

Finally I gently sanded around the edge of the two planks while they are still stuck together so that they are exactly the same shape. I used a nail file stick.
Then gently separate them, and hey presto, I have a plank in swiss pear that matches the Annegri kit plank exactly. Two finished examples set out below.

It still remains to see if the "iron on" glueing process will work. But preliminary tests have been encouraging.
 
Tim.
 

I am going to try something new with the planking on this model.
The kit comes with precut planks, which is SO helpful. Its basically a sheet of veneer which has been laser cut.  But the wood is not partic great. I think its Annegri? It has a large pronounced grain, and is not as hard as I would like. See below.

 
So I am going to try a cheap, efficient way to replace the kit planks with swiss pear planking. I purchased on ebay a 5m x 25mm length of swiss pear veneer. Its solid wood but only about 0.6mm thick, which is the same thickness as the kit planking. Its from a German company ( https://ebay.com.au/usr/support-center24) and cost about $10 AUD. The neat thing is that it comes with a layer of "iron-on" glue on the back, and is VERY flexible. I am hoping that I will be able to fix it in place without having to steam, or using CA, or pins....but simply with the flat head of a soldering iron. So this should be super cheap, super easy way of getting beautiful swiss pear planking on my model. Here is what the veneer looks like. It comes rolled up in a box. Took about 10 days to get here from Germany.

A quick snapshot of where I am to date. My progress will be slow as I am still finishing my Scottish Maid, for which I have a separate build log.

Here is some of the bulkhead planking which come as laser cut veneer sheets, with gunports already cut, and planking scribed by laser.
The external planking is in annegri wood, which has a pronounced grain which responds badly to staining with markers, so I ended up painting this (which took ages) with about ten thin layers of acrylic.
Internal planks are walnut, which I stained red, once, with permanent marker in about 2 minutes....

 

Here are a few photos of the cannons. Again pretty teensy at this scale.
They come as a separate little laser cut kit, with barrels cast including a vague royal seal.
There is some laser scribing in the wood which I like, partic the detailed capsquare. Ring bolts are PE brass, included in the kit, but I have not fitted them yet.