Robin Lous

Don, I really enjoyed and admired your trabakul build. She's a stunner!
 

Robin

I decided to modify the deck hatches.

This is the forward hatch. The kit has a closed hatch with hinges. I'll copy this...an open hatch, somewhat smaller than the kit's version of it.
 
Surgery!


Done and painted the inside black.
The larger rear hatch (not on the photo's) will get a lid, but not with hinges. With rings to lift it out.
When I finish the frames for the hatches and grating...I can do the planking.
 
More soon,
Robin

Wow, very nice! She looks fantastic! Are you going to make or buy a display case for her?

Magnifique !!
She is a beauty!

Congrats on a wonderful piece of work Don. However good the kit may be, you have made it far better. Now I'm looking forward to Stefano.
 
Bob

Don, I really enjoyed and admired your trabakul build. She's a stunner!
 

Robin

Thank you Scott! My work on the stern. I noticed it is best to paint taffrail side strips before placing on the ship, they are really hard to paint as they are so curved.
 
 

 

 

 

She grows a little more.  I turned the light way down, maybe you can see more shading now. 

The day has finally arrived, my Trabakul is complete!! Thanks to all for following along, for all the likes and the great comments it was all very much appreciated. I would also like to thank Zoran at MarisStella for all his support and help and of course for producing this fantastic kit. Although, not an easy build, I would recommend this kit not only for the challenges you will face but also for the high quality of material and contents. So anyway here she is:
  That's it and I really hope everyone enjoyed and I hope to see you over at my Stefano build
 
Have A Good Weekend and do think of those we have lost at war as tomorrow is "Remembrance Day" in Canada 

Thanks Martin, Limewood is really only of any use as  first planking on a double planked hull, for any sort of  finished wood items it is useless. Limewood dowel is also very suspect particularly in longer lengths, warping is a perennial problem. I do wish kit manufacturers would be more selective in the purposes for which it is provided.
Bowsprit iron re-fit
I realised that I had fitted the bowsprit ring at the stem at the wrong angle, pointing down rather than upwards as indicated on the Medway boat.
The original was a bit tight anyway so I took the opportunity to re-make the item with a slightly longer stem. Again I used silver solder to fabricate the ring.
2530
Deadeyes and Chainplates.
The supplied Deadeyes are of 3.86mm Ø which equates to a full scale of 7.29"Ø. By comparison the Topmast Deadeyes of a 14 gun sloop such as Pegasus are 7"Ø.
According to Steel the deadeyes for larger boats such as carried by ships of 110 - 64 guns were of 5" Ø =2.64mm at scale; and for below that (ie smaller Longboats) thimbles were listed.
As the Medway long boat model which is the basis of our model  had deadeyes I have decided to go with Chuck's Syren 3mm versions.
Chainplates
The instruction indicate the use of 28 gauge wire to make these.
For those who may not know, the higher the gauge number, the thinner the wire. 28 gauge is the thinnest of the kit supplied wire and equates on the AWG scale to  0.32mm Ø wire. In practice the kit wire is 0.40mm.
I formed them as suggested in the instructions but I silver soldered along the join as a more secure method. I also formed the Chainplates for the Shrouds with two eyes so that the deadeyes can be hooked into the plates as with the contemporary 'Medway' Longboat.
It took a bit of thinking about how to attach the hooks to the Deadeyes, and the best size of hooks to use to avoid an overscale look.
I finally settled on Syren 3mm brass etched hooks. 28 gauge wire was passed thro' the hook eye and secured with a spot of silver solder; the wire was then passed around the deadeye, nipped and secured with a spot of ca.

2513(2)
These were fiddly little things to make and the combined chainplate/ deadeye strop is certainly the easier option.
Still some fettlin' to do to finish them off.
Fairly straightforward to attach the chainplates to the hull, just need to ensure that the pins go into the frames to secure.

2527

2544

2555

2567
 
Just about ready for rigging now.
 
B.E.
 
 

So EJ,
 
Are you going to "bite the bullet" on this one and add sails, or just walk the plank -- haha
PS: As you've noted from my build it IS a chore - especially for first timers such as myself.
That said it is a great step forward in this hobby - for me it was. Along with excellent learning.
Either way your SR is great.
 
 

Thanks! It's good to have another landlocked sailor with us!

I decided to modify the deck hatches.

This is the forward hatch. The kit has a closed hatch with hinges. I'll copy this...an open hatch, somewhat smaller than the kit's version of it.
 
Surgery!


Done and painted the inside black.
The larger rear hatch (not on the photo's) will get a lid, but not with hinges. With rings to lift it out.
When I finish the frames for the hatches and grating...I can do the planking.
 
More soon,
Robin

Thanks guys!
 
Yep! I have those also, but I prefer the (also...and more) flexible sanding sticks, they're somewhat smaller and easier to handle I think.
 
It's a lucky coincidence the sides of the fames are charred dark brown because of the laser cut.
Indeed handy...when you start to sand of the charred edge...it's time to stop. Because of the fairing many frames will lose it completely though
I guess so also...first time I do this. But...it makes sense! 
 
Furthermore....nothing new to show.
I hope to finish one side tomorrow or on monday.
I'll be more than happy when I get both sides done in a week.
I expected this to be more difficult, but with the saw table and disk sander it's very doable.
The filing and sanding takes time, but that's ok.
 
More soon,
 
Robin 
 

Thanks for the information Patrick!
 
I noticed there's no deck between fame 1 and 2 and since this will be visible I asked Hans (from Kolderstok) about it.
There should be a deck and newer versions of the kit have this. So I made a support frame and the deck.

This is of course still a base deck...planking goes on it.
 
I must now do the grating and the 2 hatches...

It was tempting to order grating matching the size, but  the thickness of the wood and size of the holes would be way to small, 
So I had to order oversized gratings to get this right.
 
I'm not sure about this, but I think it's better to do the grating and hatches before planking, instead of on top of the planking.
 
And I finally got myself a plank bender!

It almost feels like I'm a wooden ship model builder now. 
 
Well, more soon, 
Robin 

I decided to modify the deck hatches.

This is the forward hatch. The kit has a closed hatch with hinges. I'll copy this...an open hatch, somewhat smaller than the kit's version of it.
 
Surgery!


Done and painted the inside black.
The larger rear hatch (not on the photo's) will get a lid, but not with hinges. With rings to lift it out.
When I finish the frames for the hatches and grating...I can do the planking.
 
More soon,
Robin

I decided to modify the deck hatches.

This is the forward hatch. The kit has a closed hatch with hinges. I'll copy this...an open hatch, somewhat smaller than the kit's version of it.
 
Surgery!


Done and painted the inside black.
The larger rear hatch (not on the photo's) will get a lid, but not with hinges. With rings to lift it out.
When I finish the frames for the hatches and grating...I can do the planking.
 
More soon,
Robin

Thanks for the information Patrick!
 
I noticed there's no deck between fame 1 and 2 and since this will be visible I asked Hans (from Kolderstok) about it.
There should be a deck and newer versions of the kit have this. So I made a support frame and the deck.

This is of course still a base deck...planking goes on it.
 
I must now do the grating and the 2 hatches...

It was tempting to order grating matching the size, but  the thickness of the wood and size of the holes would be way to small, 
So I had to order oversized gratings to get this right.
 
I'm not sure about this, but I think it's better to do the grating and hatches before planking, instead of on top of the planking.
 
And I finally got myself a plank bender!

It almost feels like I'm a wooden ship model builder now. 
 
Well, more soon, 
Robin 

The explosion ... keep it dust free ... well yes, if it stays under water Problem with casting is you can't get at it anymore, it's just a block. If I do the casting wrong, I won't even see the sub ... although, then I could say it is submerged in the North Sea  <lol>

i meant the whole idea of the cast acrylic enclosure, not the explosions and even the torpedo...
it should not be so hard to do it like that. it would most certainly be very easy to keep it dust free...lol

Today i have completed two fins and glue them to the ship.. Interesting little details.
 


 

 
Then i decide to re-do a little part that will sit at the bottom of the mast, on the main deck. It is not on the plan but i think it might be a nice addition..
 
Trace out one nut, rasped it to the desired shape, made a 6mm hole with bench drill press, little bit of a sanding, dry fit and it was ready for glue. 
Part is installed and ready for a coat of danish oil.





 
Long weekend is coming...
 
 
 
 

Thanks for the information Patrick!
 
I noticed there's no deck between fame 1 and 2 and since this will be visible I asked Hans (from Kolderstok) about it.
There should be a deck and newer versions of the kit have this. So I made a support frame and the deck.

This is of course still a base deck...planking goes on it.
 
I must now do the grating and the 2 hatches...

It was tempting to order grating matching the size, but  the thickness of the wood and size of the holes would be way to small, 
So I had to order oversized gratings to get this right.
 
I'm not sure about this, but I think it's better to do the grating and hatches before planking, instead of on top of the planking.
 
And I finally got myself a plank bender!

It almost feels like I'm a wooden ship model builder now. 
 
Well, more soon, 
Robin 

Superb!
 
spot the paint chip (brass visible) you need to touch up

The dark navy blue goes really well with the red brown hull. Nice!
 
Robin 

Thanks for the information Patrick!
 
I noticed there's no deck between fame 1 and 2 and since this will be visible I asked Hans (from Kolderstok) about it.
There should be a deck and newer versions of the kit have this. So I made a support frame and the deck.

This is of course still a base deck...planking goes on it.
 
I must now do the grating and the 2 hatches...

It was tempting to order grating matching the size, but  the thickness of the wood and size of the holes would be way to small, 
So I had to order oversized gratings to get this right.
 
I'm not sure about this, but I think it's better to do the grating and hatches before planking, instead of on top of the planking.
 
And I finally got myself a plank bender!

It almost feels like I'm a wooden ship model builder now. 
 
Well, more soon, 
Robin