aliluke

Futtock Shroud Ratlines
It did not take me long to add the ratlines to the right-hand side futtock shrouds. I used a template to set the distance between the shrouds.
 
The completed foremast futtock shroud

The following is not a great photo showing the completed main and mizzen mast futtock shrouds.

A final picture of the Indy

The next step was finishing the planking up to the covering board. No surprises there and unfortunately I don’t have any pics of the work. 

Quick aside, I spent forever measuring an individual tick strip for each frame and then doing actual math (a dangerous pastime for me) to mark exactly how many millimeters between each plank. Never imagined there’s the a super simple fan chart that could have saved so much time. 
 
The bow was a little finicky. The smooth curve of the decorative scrollwork was done partly by bending wood and partly with a lot of filler sanded down. I think it’s ever so slightly too narrow, which would cause issues later. 

I left a window unplanked on the starboard side. 

Deck planking was straightforward too. I just had to be careful when going around one of the coamings to keep the planks in line. I used a pencil to darken the edge of one side of each plank for the caulking effect. I also left a part unplanked here as well. 

Frank
I'd trust the bulkheads. Fair them for the hull planking and flush the deck to them when that fairing is done. That's my intuition - no experience with this model but very tempted by it. Nice lines and nice work by you so far (I'm sure that will continue too).

Yeah, I'm going to have get into soldering. Some reluctance but it is skill you need in this ship building fun. I'm curious about how you are going to reconcile the walnut rudder to the holly planking?

And that's all for this afternoon.
 

Hey Chris
I recommend a two part epoxy glue. It takes ages to set - 24 hours - and you can rock around with it for fifteen or so minutes at the very least. I use Epiglass Epiglue. You can change the setting times by the ratio of the two mixtures Downside is, that when it cures you'll never get it apart again but it gives you plenty of time to adjust pieces. It doesn't smell very nice but it is seriously strong when it sets. Standard wood glues will set much quicker. Epiglass gives you a lot of time to adjust things but then they can't be undone...I use it often. Toss a coin? But with epoxy you get all the time you need to adjust.

Yeah, I'm going to have get into soldering. Some reluctance but it is skill you need in this ship building fun. I'm curious about how you are going to reconcile the walnut rudder to the holly planking?

Hey Chris
I recommend a two part epoxy glue. It takes ages to set - 24 hours - and you can rock around with it for fifteen or so minutes at the very least. I use Epiglass Epiglue. You can change the setting times by the ratio of the two mixtures Downside is, that when it cures you'll never get it apart again but it gives you plenty of time to adjust pieces. It doesn't smell very nice but it is seriously strong when it sets. Standard wood glues will set much quicker. Epiglass gives you a lot of time to adjust things but then they can't be undone...I use it often. Toss a coin? But with epoxy you get all the time you need to adjust.

Hey Chris
I recommend a two part epoxy glue. It takes ages to set - 24 hours - and you can rock around with it for fifteen or so minutes at the very least. I use Epiglass Epiglue. You can change the setting times by the ratio of the two mixtures Downside is, that when it cures you'll never get it apart again but it gives you plenty of time to adjust pieces. It doesn't smell very nice but it is seriously strong when it sets. Standard wood glues will set much quicker. Epiglass gives you a lot of time to adjust things but then they can't be undone...I use it often. Toss a coin? But with epoxy you get all the time you need to adjust.

Completing the Case - Displaying the Model
 
Last steps are to cut the Lexan and assemble the case.  Used a Festool track saw to dimension the Lexan.  Assembled the case and moved her out of the shop into the family room.  Thanks for following along and Happy New Year!
 
-Rich
 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Post One Hundred and Twenty-eight
 
Shipping the rudder
I thought I would add the rudder now as fitting involves positioning the hull for access.
The rudder has a central Pear core with facings engraved to represent the tablings and other sections that properly make up the rudder of a large ship.

1754a
As I won’t be coppering, all this detail will remain visible.

3198
Before assembly of the rudder it is a good idea to check the fit thro’ the rudder port and against the stern post.
I found I needed to fettle the port a little to get the head of the rudder into position.
 

5434
With regard to rudders I have mostly used the Syren system which produces a moving rudder on individual pintles and gudgeons.

2271(2)
On Sphinx the kit provided ‘faux’ pintles/ gudgeons (above) were a thin brass etch affair which didn’t do it for me, and I used the Syren system.
 
The arrangement on ‘Indy’ is a much-improved resin version of a pintle/gudgeon combo and with laser board straps replacing the brass etch.

1750a
Chris has done a fine job in replicating these items and I am sufficiently impressed to use them on my build.
 
These little widgets slot into the Rudder beautifully, and the corresponding gudgeons match to the slots in the stern post.

1759a
The strap positions are marked on the rudder for the pintles, for accurate fitting.
I think it is also a good move to make the straps out of laser board, saves all that brass blackening and then messing it up during fitting.

1778a
The manual indicates use of brass pins inserted into drilled holes on the straps. I prefer to represent the bolts on the straps using blobs of pva applied with a toothpick.
 
The final addition to the rudder is the Spectacle plate.

1763a
This is chemically blackened brass etch.

1767b

1786a

1765a
The fit of the rudder is excellent, with a good push fit.
With this system there are no worries about getting a close fit to the stern post.
 
Well done Chris.👍
 
 
B.E.
09/01/2024
 
 

Hey Chris
I recommend a two part epoxy glue. It takes ages to set - 24 hours - and you can rock around with it for fifteen or so minutes at the very least. I use Epiglass Epiglue. You can change the setting times by the ratio of the two mixtures Downside is, that when it cures you'll never get it apart again but it gives you plenty of time to adjust pieces. It doesn't smell very nice but it is seriously strong when it sets. Standard wood glues will set much quicker. Epiglass gives you a lot of time to adjust things but then they can't be undone...I use it often. Toss a coin? But with epoxy you get all the time you need to adjust.

Keen to watch this one. MK has long been on my list of intriguing kits. 17 years though...not sure if I have that many left in the tank.😁

Hey Chris
I recommend a two part epoxy glue. It takes ages to set - 24 hours - and you can rock around with it for fifteen or so minutes at the very least. I use Epiglass Epiglue. You can change the setting times by the ratio of the two mixtures Downside is, that when it cures you'll never get it apart again but it gives you plenty of time to adjust pieces. It doesn't smell very nice but it is seriously strong when it sets. Standard wood glues will set much quicker. Epiglass gives you a lot of time to adjust things but then they can't be undone...I use it often. Toss a coin? But with epoxy you get all the time you need to adjust.

Hey Chris
I recommend a two part epoxy glue. It takes ages to set - 24 hours - and you can rock around with it for fifteen or so minutes at the very least. I use Epiglass Epiglue. You can change the setting times by the ratio of the two mixtures Downside is, that when it cures you'll never get it apart again but it gives you plenty of time to adjust pieces. It doesn't smell very nice but it is seriously strong when it sets. Standard wood glues will set much quicker. Epiglass gives you a lot of time to adjust things but then they can't be undone...I use it often. Toss a coin? But with epoxy you get all the time you need to adjust.

Yeah, I'm going to have get into soldering. Some reluctance but it is skill you need in this ship building fun. I'm curious about how you are going to reconcile the walnut rudder to the holly planking?

Hey Chris
I recommend a two part epoxy glue. It takes ages to set - 24 hours - and you can rock around with it for fifteen or so minutes at the very least. I use Epiglass Epiglue. You can change the setting times by the ratio of the two mixtures Downside is, that when it cures you'll never get it apart again but it gives you plenty of time to adjust pieces. It doesn't smell very nice but it is seriously strong when it sets. Standard wood glues will set much quicker. Epiglass gives you a lot of time to adjust things but then they can't be undone...I use it often. Toss a coin? But with epoxy you get all the time you need to adjust.

I have started adding the side "trim" pieces that have part of the swivel gun supports. I have just added the last piece on the port side and the front piece on the starboard side. The kit comes with laser cut small strips of wood that go over the swivel gun supports but I will be using a 1mm square strip of wood that I painted ochre to cut out small pieces instead.
 

 
In anticipation of the step after that, I removed the swivel gun bases that sit on top of the rail, cleaned them up, and painted them black on the top and sides.
 

 
I have been securing the reef points to the spanker using diluted acrylic matte medium. I finished the back side and am close to finishing the front side. I still need to trim these to length and replace one that I took off because it was too short.
 

 
Finally I added a coat of wipe on poly to the new cradle after assembling it. I also rubbed some black paint into the lettering on the plastic name plate. I am not sure if I will use it but if I do I will trim it down.
 

 

Nice fix. And as others have said, if your pinnace is anything to go by, the overall results should be amazing. I did the VM pinnace for my HMS Fly but yours is a master class! I'll be following your Flirt log while I battle the enormous size of the MarisStella trabaccola.

Post One Hundred and Twenty-six
Side Steps
There are ten of these fiddly little items to assemble for each side.
The step equates to a depth of around 7” and length of 2’ 4” which seems about right.
 
One of the trickiest things with steps is attaching them to the hull with correct spacing and alignment.

1711a
To assist with this a copy is taken from the plan and attached to the hull adjacent to the actual line. This provides a guide for both position and level.

1712a
Pva is used to attach the steps.

1723a

1725a
The fenders and Chesstrees are fixed into position, they took me a fair amount of fettlin’ to get them to sit right against the hull.

1726a
I wonder if it might have been a better option to cut the moulding rather than notch the fenders.

1722a
Once fitted I drilled and ‘bolted’ the items to the hull. These were items subject to wear and tear and needed to be replaced fairly easily.
 
B.E.
04/01/2024
 
 

Thanks Bob and the likes
As I delved into the kit I realised that I had to scratch build the windlass. Hmm, I don't have a lathe as Don Robinson had for his windlass, and my attempts at carving the dowel for this piece were rubbish. So I built a 3D model of the windlass and will get it 3D printed. Being summer here and most people on holiday, that might take some time...We'll see how it turns out. If any one wants a model of a windlass at 1/32 for a trabakul feel free to ask.
 

 
 

Keen to watch this one. MK has long been on my list of intriguing kits. 17 years though...not sure if I have that many left in the tank.😁

I have made a small start on the trabaccola by Maris Stella. Also known as a a trabakul, it is a coastal trading ship from the Adriatic - specifically Croatia. Maris Stella are based in Split, Croatia and I bought the kit directly from them. The support  from Zoran at Maris Stella has already been amazing.
 
I chose this ship for its likeable and unusual shape and for being, well, different. Plus being a freighter there are no cannons - yay! It is also a ship type rather than a specific vessel so I can paint it whatever colour I like and they came in many colours. There are existing trabakul, so plenty of photos online. The kit set looks beautifully made and comes with pre-sewn sails - whether I install these remains to be seen. Its not a common subject here with one log for the kit by Don Robinson, who did an amazing job, and one scratch build by Mfelinger (Matija from Croatia). There are lots of photos of the real thing on Matija's log. At 1/32 it is a large scale and a big model at 876mm long. It has plenty of challenges including a fully lined interior and single planking for a very bluff, rounded bow and stern. Nothing is as normal...
 
To start, I examined the need for building the ships boat from a balsa wood plug which you have to carve. I was not really up for that, so I bought a Quay Craft resin 1/32 boat through Cornwall Models. It is almost exactly the same size as the kit version but with a slightly different seat configuration. It is also clinker built which I like. The Quay Craft kit comes with a huge number of parts i.e. four - one hull and three seats. The casting is a bit rough but cleaned up okay. You detect more roughness when you paint and it is hard to get a really good finish and even lines. I added oars, a rudder and bolts. I'll also add an anchor and rope at some point. I like to start with a smaller kit part to get my head around the scale and this is really big! It also gives me a chance to play with my basic colour scheme which will deviate from the box lid. In my case a pale blue grey with very dark blue trims but mostly natural timber (the boat seats and floor is just painted resin made to look like timber).
 
I haven't given up on HMS Fly - I just got bored with it for the time being.
 
 
The box - big!

Inside the box - there are plenty of descriptions of content on the Maris Stella website.

Inside the box 

The plug for the boat - no thanks...

The Quay Craft alternative - more or less completed.



Size comparison with the Vanguard Models launch and pinnace at 1/64.

I have made a small start on the trabaccola by Maris Stella. Also known as a a trabakul, it is a coastal trading ship from the Adriatic - specifically Croatia. Maris Stella are based in Split, Croatia and I bought the kit directly from them. The support  from Zoran at Maris Stella has already been amazing.
 
I chose this ship for its likeable and unusual shape and for being, well, different. Plus being a freighter there are no cannons - yay! It is also a ship type rather than a specific vessel so I can paint it whatever colour I like and they came in many colours. There are existing trabakul, so plenty of photos online. The kit set looks beautifully made and comes with pre-sewn sails - whether I install these remains to be seen. Its not a common subject here with one log for the kit by Don Robinson, who did an amazing job, and one scratch build by Mfelinger (Matija from Croatia). There are lots of photos of the real thing on Matija's log. At 1/32 it is a large scale and a big model at 876mm long. It has plenty of challenges including a fully lined interior and single planking for a very bluff, rounded bow and stern. Nothing is as normal...
 
To start, I examined the need for building the ships boat from a balsa wood plug which you have to carve. I was not really up for that, so I bought a Quay Craft resin 1/32 boat through Cornwall Models. It is almost exactly the same size as the kit version but with a slightly different seat configuration. It is also clinker built which I like. The Quay Craft kit comes with a huge number of parts i.e. four - one hull and three seats. The casting is a bit rough but cleaned up okay. You detect more roughness when you paint and it is hard to get a really good finish and even lines. I added oars, a rudder and bolts. I'll also add an anchor and rope at some point. I like to start with a smaller kit part to get my head around the scale and this is really big! It also gives me a chance to play with my basic colour scheme which will deviate from the box lid. In my case a pale blue grey with very dark blue trims but mostly natural timber (the boat seats and floor is just painted resin made to look like timber).
 
I haven't given up on HMS Fly - I just got bored with it for the time being.
 
 
The box - big!

Inside the box - there are plenty of descriptions of content on the Maris Stella website.

Inside the box 

The plug for the boat - no thanks...

The Quay Craft alternative - more or less completed.



Size comparison with the Vanguard Models launch and pinnace at 1/64.

I have made a small start on the trabaccola by Maris Stella. Also known as a a trabakul, it is a coastal trading ship from the Adriatic - specifically Croatia. Maris Stella are based in Split, Croatia and I bought the kit directly from them. The support  from Zoran at Maris Stella has already been amazing.
 
I chose this ship for its likeable and unusual shape and for being, well, different. Plus being a freighter there are no cannons - yay! It is also a ship type rather than a specific vessel so I can paint it whatever colour I like and they came in many colours. There are existing trabakul, so plenty of photos online. The kit set looks beautifully made and comes with pre-sewn sails - whether I install these remains to be seen. Its not a common subject here with one log for the kit by Don Robinson, who did an amazing job, and one scratch build by Mfelinger (Matija from Croatia). There are lots of photos of the real thing on Matija's log. At 1/32 it is a large scale and a big model at 876mm long. It has plenty of challenges including a fully lined interior and single planking for a very bluff, rounded bow and stern. Nothing is as normal...
 
To start, I examined the need for building the ships boat from a balsa wood plug which you have to carve. I was not really up for that, so I bought a Quay Craft resin 1/32 boat through Cornwall Models. It is almost exactly the same size as the kit version but with a slightly different seat configuration. It is also clinker built which I like. The Quay Craft kit comes with a huge number of parts i.e. four - one hull and three seats. The casting is a bit rough but cleaned up okay. You detect more roughness when you paint and it is hard to get a really good finish and even lines. I added oars, a rudder and bolts. I'll also add an anchor and rope at some point. I like to start with a smaller kit part to get my head around the scale and this is really big! It also gives me a chance to play with my basic colour scheme which will deviate from the box lid. In my case a pale blue grey with very dark blue trims but mostly natural timber (the boat seats and floor is just painted resin made to look like timber).
 
I haven't given up on HMS Fly - I just got bored with it for the time being.
 
 
The box - big!

Inside the box - there are plenty of descriptions of content on the Maris Stella website.

Inside the box 

The plug for the boat - no thanks...

The Quay Craft alternative - more or less completed.



Size comparison with the Vanguard Models launch and pinnace at 1/64.