garyshipwright

October 17, 2009
 
 
I have decided to put the wales on, to give some strength and stability to the hull before finishing the sanding. I'm really afraid of it springing apart on me if I don't bind it together a bit.

First decision was whether to put the wales on in one piece, or to go fancier with multiple pieces. Then the question becomes, how are they joined? Butted together? Scarf joints? Anchor stock? I don't think it would be the latter in this case. I can't decide this yet.


I will thin the wales at the bow, so they bend easier and I believe it's historically accurate.

At least I can mark the location of the wale on the hull. I consulted the Chapelle plans (presumably traced or copied from the original Christian Bergh plans) and discovered that the wale was not shown the same width as the three supplies pieces would make. (The wale stock is 1/4 x 1/8 inch) In fact, on the Chapelle plans the total wale varies in width. The Lumberyard plans have simplified the wale for easier building, but I can see from comparing them that the original plans have nicer proportions.   There will have to be some tapering of the wales if I want to match the Chapelle plans. The Chapelle plans also show a line dividing the wale. What is this?  Does it mean the top wale strake is a 12" width and the lower one is larger, or two smaller ones? This is a mystery.  [if only I knew then what I know now!]
 

 

 
 
At the stern, the Lumberyard plans don't seem to account for the wales curving under the transom--
 

 
 
So I have a few things to puzzle over before I progress. The stern framing was a tricky construction, but things are not getting any easier!!
 
 
 
Ocober, 17, 2009
 
 
I'm much more at ease about the flexing of the hull during the next steps after gluing in some temporary beams [A suggestion from "Jim Lad-John"]--
 

 
 
The wale strakes curve around the hull, which would shorten the vertical dimension in elevation on the plans. This is the approximate location of the lowest wale strake--
 

 
 
I marked the top of the wale, and glued a strip of cherry (a piece of the stock to be used for the deck ledge beams) to test  he "lay" and act as a guide for the wale strake--
 

 

 
 
I think I will make the top wale strake the full 1/4 inch width, and the two lower wale strakes will be narrower and tapered fore and aft. . Maybe the lower strakes should also diminish to meet the hull planking.  [i wish I had done this]

 
 
October 18, 2009
 
 
The only information I've been able to find that supports the way the tapered wale is drawn for Oneida is some writing in "The Built-up Ship Model" by Charles G. Davis. He writes about the wale following the "5-4-3" rule where the widest point is 5/5ths the total width, the bow 4/5ths and the stern 3/5ths. That looks pretty close to what is shown on the Chapelle plans, and the author's model that is illustrated in the book follows that rule.

I've also looked at the other ship plans in HASN and while most seem to show wales of a constant width, there are some in
addition to Oneida where the wale varies in width.

However, Davis and Goodwin also describe the wales in groups of two strakes to accomodate the top and butt or anchor stock patterns. Usually then there are four strakes that make up the main wale. My wale is to be three strakes.

Possibly the top strake is a full 12" width, butt joined, and maybe the lower two strakes are either top and butt or anchor stock. That might explain the drawing of the wale on the plan as a twelve inch top strake and another variable width (from about 16" at the stern to almost 24" at the widest point to 18" at the bow) strake below it.

Here's the picture again so you don't have to scroll back--
 

 
 
Here is the Raleigh, which shows a tapered wale, though itis an earlier ship--1776--
 

 
 
Here is the Argus, 1803 which is close to Oneida. It shows a wale of constant width, but like the Oneida plan it does
show a line for the top strake of the wale, but doesn't indicate the wale strakes below--
 

 
 
I'm proceeding with the idea that on Oneida the top wale strake is a constant 12 inches, butted together [maybe I should have hook scarfed them, but this idea was just a little too overwhelming for me at the time]; and the lower strakes are top and butt joined, making an overall strake of varying width.

Who knows if this could be true, or if it's just a faulty extrapolation of my limited knowledge!  [i say that with my current knowledge it's possible that it was built that way, but the thing I missed was that the top strake was probably not as thick as the lower ones]

First I cut some heavy paper (the back side of an old photograph) to make two wale strakes. The top one is divided into 24' planks, the bottom one is a continuous piece that tapers at the bow and stern--
 

 
 
Then I took the bottom one off and drew the top and butt pattern on it--
 

 
 
And taped it back onto the hull to check it out--
 

 

 
 
I'll ponder over this some more before I actually start cutting wood.

 
 
October 20, 2009
 
 
That pumpkin sneaks up on me. I will have to make sure it doesn't take a bite out of the ship. And before anybody asks, the purse is my daughter's!

I glued the port side wale guide piece on, taking care to make sure it was as symmetrical as possible to the starboard side--
 


 
Then I went to work on the upper strake of the wale. First I cut a 24 foot length--
 

 
 
And sanded the forward end to decrease the thickness to just a bit over the regular planking thickness (Which is 1/16th inch--3 inches in scale)--
 

 

 
 
Then I heated the piece up. I took it out after about five minutes, before thewater even started to boil. I was surprised at how easily it bent--
 

 
 
I taped it to the inverse of the form I had made to help with the hull framing.  I'm glad I kept this cardboard piece.  This probably isn't exactly the shape at the wale, but it should get me close--
 

 
 
When I untaped it there was a little springback, so I gently overbent the piece by hand, cold, and now it's pretty close the final shape. I also needed to twist it some, which I also did cold--
 

 
 
Here it is dry fit on the hull--
 

 
 
When I clamp the piece down the gaps will go away--
 

 
 
Speaking of clamps, my clothes pins aren't going to cut it for this work. They aren't long enough. I'll either have to buy some longer, stronger squeeze clamps or get some rubber bands and rig something up. For once I'm not going to rush and glue this up tonight with the inadequate stuff I've got on hand.


Maybe I'll even cut out all the first strake pieces for both sides first, and bend the other bow piece. I think the bow piece may be the only one that needs to be pre-bent. The bending is pretty slight for the other pieces.

 
 
Ron

Thanks, Elia.  It's good to be building again.
 
Thanks, Patrick.  The gluing and ungluing works well with pear, a very hard wood.  I'm not sure it would work as well with something softer, like basswood, for example.  With basswood filing and sanding go much faster, so it might end up being easier just to do them individually, in that case.  I don't know.
 
 
I'm working toward making and installing everything that needs to go on the inner bulwarks.  Part of that task is drilling the rest of the carronade eyebolt holes.
 
 
Marking the spots with a pin--
 

 
 
And drilling.  For most of these, I need to work through the ports on the opposite side.  It's also important to do this before any structures are built up on the deck--
 

 
 
 
 
 
I ran out of eyebolts previously, so it's now time to make some more.   The smallest I found to buy are not small enough.  I'm sure the right size is available somewhere, but I've not minded making my own.  It would probably be better to work up a jig to do these, but (and this is bad) I'm usually very lazy when it comes to making jigs.  Or maybe I have jig-phobia.
 
In any event here's my method for these.  I'm using soft brass wire, 24 gage.
 
 
Grip the very end in round nose pliers, and twist all the way around--
 

 
 
Until you end up with this--
 

 
 
Take the wire out, and re-grip so you can twist back the other way-- 
 

 
 
Something like this--
 

 
 
And end up with this. This is the most crucial step. If I don't get this result, I just cut it off and start over. You need to end up with an off-center loop that is slightly open--
 

 
 
Grip the loop with regular needle-nosed pliers and carefully twist back to center the loop. If you do it right the loop closes up and gets even smaller--
 

 
 
Here's the finished eyebolt next to a purchased one--
 

 
 
These take me between 15 and 20 seconds apiece (I could probably do it in 10 if I was really trying hard), though I can only stand to do about 10 at a sitting. I need to make about 100 more.
 
 
Ron

Thanks, Robert, Patrick, and Clay!
 
In between checking out everyone else's "new" logs this afternoon, I managed to make some cleats. 
 
Hoping to make it easier to get them somewhat uniform, I tried this method:
 
 
I cut a spare strip of planking stock into appropriate lengths.  These were glued up (with Elmers white glue aka PVA) into "blocks" of six at a time--
 

 
 
The block of cleats was then shaped to the basic profile using sandpaper, chisels and files--
 
   
 
 
Isopropyl alcohol weakens the glue--
 

 
 
And they are separated back into individual pieces for fine-tuning with a file--
 

 
 
I need two different sizes--here's a shot of some of the rough "blanks" including two finished cleats--
 

 
 
Ron

Old business:  I have an adapter part on order so that I can put my old hard drive in my new computer, and retrieve all the old photos.
 
New business:  I have a tough time, sometimes, with the "leave well enough alone" concept.  The wale on my Oneida has been bothering me since I first put it on, almost three years ago.  At the time I was confused about the meaning of this line on the Chapelle drawing:
 

 
 
My interpretation (keep in mind I knew next to nothing, and couldn't find much info) was that it marked a difference in the wale between a strake of "straight" planking above the line, and top and butt planking below.  How silly.  But that's the way I built it.
 
 
I now believe (having seen a little more of the shipbuilding world) that it indicates a change in the thickness of the wale.  Below is a sketch of the wale as built, with a dashed green line showing how I think it should have been built--
 

 
 
I just couldn't leave this alone, so work was begun to change it--
 

 

 

 

 
 
Looks pretty ragged here--
 

 

 
 
But better after sanding--
 

 
 
During the staining process--
 

 
 
And the result after one coat of finish--
 

 
 
I probably didn't take it down quite far enough, but I'm satisfied that at least the difference is there now--
 

 
 
There's not much rhyme or reason sometimes to the things I "need" to fix, and the things I let go.  This one fell in the former category but now I'm happy and I can move on!  
Ron

As I get underway with the continuation of this build log, I will hopefully be able to include some past photos.  I've discovered that all my model photos prior to 2013 reside (I hope) on an old hard drive that is no longer attached to my computer.  I had to replace the motherboard last year, and the new one didn't support the old hard drive.  So it may be a while before I can retrieve those photos.
 
 
This model of Oneida will represent the brig as she was armed in 1813, with sixteen 24 pounder carronades and two 6 pounder long guns.  I also hope to fully rig her, but time will tell!
 
Here is the current state of the model--
 

 
 
This post is a bit of a placeholder at the moment but I should have some more to add soon. 
 
Ron
 
 

August 4, 2009
 
 
I am building the carronade slides. Partly because it's fun, and partly because I want an assembled carriage to help fine tune the deck and cap rail heights--
 

 

 

 
 
The Carronade slides are boxwood, and this is the first time I've had the pleasure of meeting that hardwood. It sure cleans up nice!

Following is my method for making the "iron" straps that hold the carronades to the carriages. (I'm being lazy at the
moment and not looking up the correct term for either the projection on the carronade or the iron strap.) [trunnion and capsquare]

This is not NEARLY as elegant as "Adrift's Thingy for making Thingies" (try searching that if you didn't see the thread), but it works. [we need this on the new site!]

First I taped a paper clip down, and laid a brass strip over it. The diameter of the paper clip is less than the diameter of the gun part [TRUNNION!!]--
 

 
 
Held some flat tipped pliers open just a little over the brass strip.

And pounded the end of the pliers with a hammer!--
 

 

 

 
 
Once I was satisfied that this would work, I pounded out a bunch of them--
 

 
 
I actually remembered a past lesson, and made a few extra, just in case--
 

 

 
 
Ron


 

Thanks, Daniel, Martin, Albert & Tim
 
Onwards to the waterway, it's typical shape is hard to see in the pictures. 
 

In hindsight it was better to work front to back, now I had a hard time to fit the forward portion of the waterway between the closing part at the stem. btw this part looks a lot like a B-2 stealth bomber, would Northrop have peeked at the 18th century ship design before they drafted this 20th century machine 
 


Using a compass to copy the shape of the waterway to the first plank wasn't possible. The compass was to big, so a simple washer did the trick 
 

 
Remco

Hello,
thank you also for the positive comments.
Here you can see at one glance all 20 carronades:

Here is a picture of the carronades on the rear deck:

Hi Rob, Thanks for the screw idea!
 
Mike, As you said it will take a long time I think as some parts require the removal of 1/4"
or more of material. That's a whole lot of sanding and filing.
 
Ok the planking in board is complete. As I mentioned before I used red heart.
I also cut some thin veneers to line the inside of the gun ports. I did not think
far enough ahead for the sweep ports so they will be painted red to match. They
are so small I don't believe anyone will know the difference.
 
That is except for all of you.  
 

 

 
 

Hello,
the twentieth carronade is now mounted.
To this end, a few photos for assembly.

 

 

 

 

 

Again thank you all for stopping by. The deck has been tree nailed and I will
have the inboard planking completed this weekend.
 

 

 
I have been ignoring the 800 pound gorilla in the room. I now have to address it.
So I’m finally looking ahead to the cannon and mortar. You see I do not own a
lathe and I’m hard pressed to spend $400-$800 dollars just to make a couple of
cannon.  I’ve also looked at the less expensive lathes like Proxxon but that only
does wood. If I spend that much should I spend more for a metal lathe but would
the cost be justified and worth it and on and on my mind goes!
 
One alternative was to see if I could commission someone to make them for me.
As they are so big I’m thinking they could be turned out of boxwood or holly or
some such close grained hardwood.
 
I forgot to put a ruler on the plans but the cannon is 4 ½” long and ¾” wide.
 

 
The mortar is 2 ¾” long and 1 ½” wide.
 

 
Oh decisions, decisions, decisions!  

Continuing with the capstan-
 
As I looked again at various capstans to glean some details I was still fuzzy on, there seemed to be more space between the whelps than I was coming up with, and it dawned on me that what I wanted to make had only six whelps instead of eight.   The eight capstan bars that I saw on models, I mistakenly took to correspond to eight whelps as well.   Not so in this case.
 
Upon learning this, my octagonal post was not going to do me any good and I sanded it round.  I glued two opposing whelps to it, and test fit this on the deck--
 

 
 
The height seemed about right, and I glued the remaining whelps on by eye, trying to make sure they were perpendicular to the shaft, equally spaced, and all at the same height--
 

 

 
 
Next I made the chocks.  Two sets would be needed, and I used the same technique as for the whelps: cut out blanks, glue them into a block, and sand them to the desired shape--
 

 
 
Here I have sanded one chock block and am test fitting it--
 

 
 
Here are my two chock blocks--
 

 
 
These were separated in hot water, and glued into place--
 

 
 
They need to be filed down to the same profile as the whelps--
 

 

 
 
I then tried this out on the deck again, and pondered exactly how to make the capstan head--
 

 
 
Incidentally, you see the mast I had made, on the deck.  It will be a do-over.   I found some better information on mast tapering (from my old friend Charles G. Davis, no surprise), learned I had made a mistake ( a couple, actually).    Oh, well.  This one will do fine for helping me make the mast partners and locate the right chain plate angles.
 
 
I started the capstan head by drawing the location of the eight capstan bars on a piece of paper--
 

 
 
Then I did some measuring, marking and sketched out the shape of a "capstan bar chock" that would be sandwiched between two discs, and create the square capstan bar hole--
 

 
 
Once again, the chock block technique was employed to create eight uniform chocks--
 

 
 
These were separated and tested out on the drawing--
 

 
 
I cut some "stand in" capstan bars out of stock exactly the same thickness as the chocks, so I would end up with square holes.  These were glued onto the paper, centered on the lines I had drawn--
 

 
 
Then I glued the spacer chocks onto the paper, between the stand-in capstan bars--
 

 
 
It didn't matter that the spacer chocks extended unevenly beyond the outline of the capstan head, the excess would be sanded away.  The bars were removed--
 

 
 
Then the top disc of the head was glued to the spacers--
 
 
 
 
When the glue set, the assembly was removed from the paper--
 
 

 
 
The bottom disc was glued on, and extending bits of chock were sanded away--
 

 
 
Here it is partway through the sanding--
 

 
 
When it was smooth and as round as I could make it (it rolled across the table pretty well), I glued it to the whelp assembly--
 

 
 
And tried it out on the deck--
 

 

 
 
I will make the pawl mechanism and attach that to the deck, then it's done.
 
 
Ron

I've worked on the mast and the capstan.
 
 
First the mast--
 

 
On the left is a piece of maple that I started to round, got about 3/4 of the way there, and decided I didn't like the maple.
 
Next to that is a piece of Swiss Pear that I cut with a jewelers saw, horrendously.   I wavered far off my cut line, and this piece is too narrow in the middle to make the fore or main mast.  I think I can use it for the bowsprit.
 
Next to the right is another try at cutting a straight(er) piece of wood.  This one will work.  Farthest on the right is the billet of wood I am cutting these from.   I know this is insane, and I should just order squared wood that is close to the size I need.  I didn't want to wait, (or spend more money) but after doing this once, I will order some square wood for the rest of the masts and spars!
 
Here is the sanding down of the piece, underway-
 

 
 
Underhill says to taper the square to the right widths, before chamfering and making the mast round, so that's what I did.
 
 
Here's the mast mostly tapered square.   There's still some fat at the middle section.  There are some measuring points marked.   As I sanded a side, these would get erased, and I'd redraw them before moving on to another side--
 

 
 
The illustrations and directions I have seen for mast making are for larger, "made" masts with the cheeks, front fish and iron  (or rope) bands.  This will be a simple, single piece, and I'm not sure how to work the bibs into the mast and taper.  This may be a throwaway trial run if it's not satisfactory.   But at least I will be able to use it to set the chainplate angles when I get to those. 
 
Here's the mast mostly tapered and shaped--
 

 
 
Next was making the bibs.  I glued two pieces together, made a rough cut with the jewelers saw, and then further shaped them with files while they were glued together--
 

 
 
Here they are separated--
 

 
 
I glued them to the mast, and filed and sanded them some more-- 
 

 
 
You can also see some work on the capstan pieces in that picture, but I better back up just a little.
 
As with the bibs, I cut blanks for the capstan whelps--
 

 
 
And glued them into a block--
 

 
 
The block was sawed, filed and sanded to get the right profile.  I also made an octagonal center post.  This will extend down to the lower deck--
 

 
 
I glued a brass pivot point into the bottom of the post, and separated the whelp pieces.  The piece with the hole will sit on the upper deck with the capstan--
 

 
 
My capstan is supposed to be similar to the one on the Institute of Nautical Archeology (INA) model of the US Brig Jefferson.  That capstan has a different profile to the whelps than I usually see, and seems a little narrower overall, also.   I don't know if mine is going to end up as nice as that one!
 
 
Ron

Hi Ron -
 
Just found and finished reading your log.  You are making great progress and I really like the way you constructed the capstan.   
 
I got interested in Oneida some years ago, and ultimately did a lot of historic research on the First Battle of Sackett's Harbor, which was the first naval battle, and may have been the first of any battles in the War of 1812.  Quite a significant little scrap, which kept the British/Canadians from taking control of the Great Lakes.  Oneida's gallant captain, Commander Melancthon Woolsey, is a true unsung hero. 
 
I also built a 1/96 scale model of her per Chapelle's plans.  It has the raised deck and pivot gun, later removed by Woolsey.  After I found that piece of information construction was halted, and other projects have prevented completion of the masting and rigging.  Here are a few photos for comparison, if they are of any help to you.
 
Be well
 
Dan
 

Continuing with the pumps--
 
Here are the pieces blackened--
 

 
 
I didn't have particularly good luck on this batch, though I followed my usual procedure:  wash the pieces in soap, and then rinse well, use about an 1:8 solution of Blacken-it and water,  wait a while!
 
I did the rocker arm and one of the pump tubes twice, but still some "light" areas.
 
 
Two holes were bored in the deck (and lower deck on the starboard side)--
 

 
 
To the right you can see a mark, and two pin starter holes where I nearly drilled!!   That would have been a pain to fix.  I think I can take care of the small holes by filling them with sawdust paste so they don't show.
 
 
Here are the pieces dry fit--
 

 

 
 
And here they are glued--
 

 
 
The only difference in appearance between the dry fit photos and these, is the small wire pins to hold the plunger rods to the rocker arm.   I still need to trim those, and then I will glue the rocker arm in this horizontal position.   The valve stirrups are too fragile (they've been filed dangerously thin to make sure the valves slide in the tube) to take a chance on them breaking if the pump is "worked".
 

 

 
 
I will probably make small washers for the main pin in the rocker arm pivot and support stanchion--it looks like it needs them.   I won't do that on the small pins though, they'll just need a spot of glue so they don't fall out.
 
 
One more overall photo--
 

 
 
Ron

Today, I did a lot of brass work, and soldering, in working on the pumps.
 
My basis-of-design is from Charles G. Davis in "The Built-up-Ship Model"--
 

 
 
Here are most of the pieces needed, various diameters of brass tubing, rod, and bar stock-- 
 

 
 
First I soldered some bent rod to scores cut in the barrel of the upper valve pieces--
 

 
 
These were then filed back to the diameter of the tubing--
 

 
 
So that the valve would slide into the pump chamber--
 

 
 
Loops were made at the end of lengths of brass rod, for the plunger pieces--
 

 
 
Out of bar stock, the rocker arm was rough cut, and filed--
 

 
 
Here are the pieces, just about all assembled--
 

 
 
The "sockets" on the ends of the rocker arm are some square tube that I hammered down a little to make it rectangular, and then soldered to the rocker arm.
 
 
After determining the correct length of the plunger rods, I soldered u-shaped attachments.  I had to do this three times before I got a solder joint that held--
 

 
 
I also had to redo the flange pieces for the tubes.  I ended up hammering down a ring cut from a larger size tube, and then, since it wasn't perfectly round after the hammering, I filed it inside and out so it would fit the tube and be round--it looks much better than what I had before--
 
 
 
 
Next will be blackening and assembling the pumps.
 
 
 
Ron

Finishing up the pin rails:
 
 
Here's how I revised them, so they continue around the aft post at the same height.  
 

 
 
Moving on to the mast partners, I drew an octagon with at the correct size of my masts--
 

 
 
And milled the center out, a little smaller than the drawn octagon.  Notice the wood is at an angle to account for the mast rake--
 

 
 
I filed the corners of the octagon a little better, then fit the partners on the deck.   The octagons will need to be enlarged to fit the actual masts when they are made--
 

 
 
 
The aft hatch arrangement:
 
 
I finally settled on what to do with these last hatches.  It's changed from my initial idea, and I needed to do some surgery to the framing to accommodate a companionway in the second opening--
 

 
 
I glued in a ladder I had made a long time ago--
 

 
 
Some pieces cut for the companionway sides--
 

 
 
The pieces that make up the sides were glued together, and when set they were sanded flush, trimmed to the right size, and glued into a "box"--
 

 
 
Just aft of the companionway, on what's left of the coaming, I'll build a binnacle.
 
The opening forward of the companionway will be a skylight.  Here is the frame test fit--
 

 
 
And then both test fit together--
 

 
 
Ron

Continuing on with the topmast sheet bitts--
 
The main pieces are similar to the fore mast sheet bitts, but for the main mast there are some extra pin rails and posts.
 
First, the partners, and the decking are notched for the bitt posts--
 

 
 
These are dry fit--
 

 
 
The main posts, aft posts, and pin rails are shaped and partially glued.  Pins are epoxied into the ends of the side rail sub-assemblies for strength, and to make gluing easier--
 

 
 
Holes are marked and drilled in the deck for the aft posts--
 

 
 
More dry fitting--
 

 
 
Measuring for fitting the aft pin rail--
 

 
 
The aft rail is cut and glued to the side rail sub-assemblies--
 

 
 
More dry fitting--
 

 

 
 
I'm not happy with the aft pin rail.   It looks a little flimsy.  I remove it adjust the notches, and re-glue it--
 

 

 
 
This is better, but I'm not sure it's good yet.  I was going for something similar in basic concept to the mast rails on the Brig Niagara replica, where the side and aft rails are at different heights, but I'm not sure I like this.   I think I will remove the aft rail, trim it, and the side rails, and attach it so that all three are at the same height.  
 
The sheet bitt posts also need the side cleats made and attached (as on the fore mast sheet bitts), but those and the rail adjustments will have to wait for tomorrow.
 
 
Ron

Today's project was the topmast sheet bitts.
 
Here are the basic pieces for both the fore mast (above) and the main mast (below).  Some square posts, pin rails, and the as yet unfinished mast partners
 

 
 
I began working on the fore mast bitts.  These are the simpler of the two, with only one pin rail, athwart the posts.  First I cut the notch for the pin rail--
 

 
 
And chiseled it out--
 

 
 
Here are the two posts laid on the deck.   The knees for the riding bitts need to be notched to receive the posts, and the mast partner piece will also be notched out in the corners--
 

 
 
One post is dry fit--
 

 
 
Here are the two posts and the pin rail dry fit--still a lot of work to do--
 

 
 
A sheave needs to be put into each post.   Here are the posts notched for the sheaves, which are stained pieces cut from a dowel--
 

 
 
After the sheaves are glued in, a filler piece is glued, these will be sanded down flush--
 

 
 
After sanding down the filler pieces, adding a cleat to each side, and some further chamfering and shaping, here are the fore topmast sheet bitts--
 

 
 
And dry fit on the model--
 

 

 
 
 
Ron

Thanks Maury and Bill - I'll get around to doing that.
 
Quarterdeck Timberheads
 
I've finished making all the straight timberheads and now I need to make the angled ones for the quarterdeck.
 
First thing to do was determine the angles. I'm starting with the shallowest near the fore of the deck. I've used my digital level to get the first angle :
 

 
Then I marked the angle on my jig on both sides of the wider slot, and cut the sides of the slot :
 

 
Then I filed and cut the steps etc as before. A wedge holds the piece in place while I cut or file it :
 

 

 
As I progress aft the angle will increase. Each needs to be measured, and the jig re-cut to suit.
 
  Danny

Your very welcome Ron and thank you Joe. Here are some photo's of her keel, stem, stern post and deadwood along with her apron and building board. A couple of the photo's show the templates that were used to construct the parts and pieces.

The last two pictures show the knees installed.
 
 

 

I have made and installed the opposed lodging knees.  Since I did not go into any detail on their construction for the lower deck, let me demonstrate how I made them.  First, I make a template of the knee and saw it out a bit oversized.  The thickness of the blank is about 2.5 times the normal thickness to allow for the curvatures.  I then mark on the blank the areas that will be removed. I use a combination of my Preac saw, Dremel sanding discs and sandpaper to remove the excess material.  The knees are given a final shaping and the bolts are added prior to installation. 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 

Thanks John, it would have been a LOT more difficult without the jig   .
 
All the timberheads are finished and installed. The pic below shows how much difference there was in the longitudinal angles, remember that the ones near the waist were straight :
 

 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

Before I start my build log some information about the real La Créole and
the data from which my model will build.
 
The La Créole was a 24-gun corvette of the French Navy. The corvette
carried 4 x 18 pdr guns and 20 x 30 pdr carronades.
Her plans were drawn by P. M. Leroux in 1827. She was launched in Cherbourg in
May 1829. The ship took part in the French invasion of Mexico in 1838, and most
notably in the Bombardment of San Juan de Ulloa before French troops disembarked and captured the city of Veracruz.

There is a fine shipyard model on display at the Musée national de la Marine in Paris which is shown by many photos in the book of Jean Boudriot (in French). 
 
I use the following sources for building my model of the corvette:
Jean Boudriot - Historique de la corvette 1650-1850: La
Créole, 1827
 
 
Now the images of beginning:
 
 
 
To be continued...
 
Best regards
Johann