garyshipwright

I have finished installing the rest of the cannon.  The pumps are next.

I now have the boarding ladders completed. Chuck says that they are "pretty straight forward". I guess that in a way they are, but I needed to figure out how deep to make the profile for it to work. The back edge needs to be tapered in order for the tops to sit parallel to the building board. If the profile is too deep they would be too thin on the bottom after tapering. My first scraping was just that, too thin. I made another profile that was only half as deep and that worked out okay, I think. The I-Gauging tool help me to see when the top was parallel. The middle three ladders where later given a coat of Poly after being glued onto the hull. That strip of blue tape was just to protect the wales from getting scratched by my fingers while working.

I decided not to cover the top ladder with a frieze. Now that the ladders are in I will finish up the two dangling chain plates.

Mike

why not just use plastic tubing paint black. Yes guy's I know it's plastic but it still scratch built. 😁

why not just use plastic tubing paint black. Yes guy's I know it's plastic but it still scratch built. 😁

Well good sir's I just about have the forward capstan completed, just need to add  a few more items to the upper capstan and then I can get started on the main one. Gary 

Thought I would add some close up photo's of Montague.  I was on the NRG site and came across the article by Kurt on taking photo's of ones work and figure I needed to practice  a bit. Guess I have to find a little space for a photo booth when  taking good photo's of my ship.  Well guys one day maybe I get the hang of taking good photo's, hope you enjoy the close up. Gary

Hi guy's. Here's a update on the build but this time it is more about her building board. I add a way of being able to tilt her from side to side  which helps keep the back in tack and a lot easier getting to thing's.  I worked on a couple of hanging knee's and being tilted made it a lot better.  I can't take the Credit for it which goes to  Alan/AON and the tech info on it. Hope you enjoy the pictures and any question will be more then happy to answer them

Guys am selling my hog made by Vanda Lay. Run's like a champ and work's like a clock. Figure it was time for a up grade to the Byrnes thickness sander which has a 6 inch table and the hog only has a three inch table. If your interested send me a PM and we can talk about the price and shipping. Probably should have cleaned it up and that will be done if it finds a new home. Interest party's only please. Gary

Guys am selling my hog made by Vanda Lay. Run's like a champ and work's like a clock. Figure it was time for a up grade to the Byrnes thickness sander which has a 6 inch table and the hog only has a three inch table. If your interested send me a PM and we can talk about the price and shipping. Probably should have cleaned it up and that will be done if it finds a new home. Interest party's only please. Gary

Well good sir's I just about have the forward capstan completed, just need to add  a few more items to the upper capstan and then I can get started on the main one. Gary 

Thought I would add some close up photo's of Montague.  I was on the NRG site and came across the article by Kurt on taking photo's of ones work and figure I needed to practice  a bit. Guess I have to find a little space for a photo booth when  taking good photo's of my ship.  Well guys one day maybe I get the hang of taking good photo's, hope you enjoy the close up. Gary

Hi Kurtis. The part that you talk about the runs completed through the ship is the keel. It did in fact taper from the middle to both ends being 18 inches squared in the middle,14" at the gripe and 12 1/2" at the forward edge of the rudder. The area where the crew took care of their business was a small deck which had seat's of ease, better known as toilets, and was called the beakhead . As far as finding out what the gripe in todays  dictionary, does not exist so what you need is a dictionary from the 18th century like Falconer Universal Dictionary of the Marine. Can't remember other one's but there out there.  I took a picture of the 74 gun ship Bellona which shows the parts of the knee of the head along with the other parts that make up the knee. Some thing about figure B3/2 at the top is the stem at it widest at the top and shows that it also get's tapered going down to the keel(item 1) . In front of the stem is the  knee of the head once it has been tapered.  Photo B3/2 show's a head on view of the taper from the stem- (item 3) to the  seat of the figure head ( item 16) . the taper also goes from the Gripe (Item 6) at the bottom of the knee  to the seat of the figure head( item 16)  I also added  another couple of photo's showing how the rail's was done. The photo's should help you and if you need any more info or just what a word means just let me know. When I started building them the biggest hurdle was figuring out what word went with what item of the ship. Thought I was going to go bonkers trying to figure them out. Gary

Well guy's after a couple of weeks I finally finished the build board and the Center keel. The plywood for the bulkheads should be here tomorrow  and I can get started on them. Between the two, the Winchelsea and the Montague,  they  should keep me busy.  

Thanks Hubac. If I told you it took me just about a month on and off with every thing else. Now all I have to do is make the aft one in 2 week's. 😊probably not

Well Kurtis hate to say it sir but the two hardest parts on the ship is the stern and bow. Have to agree with you and working on the other stuff should give you time to figure out those area's. For me I have been trying for years to figure them out and still get a headache. They do take a lot of time that's for sure 

Kurtis you can get the Anatomy of the ship Bellona from Abe books for about $30.  It says that it's used but looks to be in good shape.  A lot of those measurements come's from A book that Sea Watch has called Scantlings of Royal Navy Ships 1719-1805 by Allan Yedlinsky who is a member here on the site. Cost about $45. You might even see a few other books that could help you with your build. If you really want to get in to the how Vol one and two of the fully framed model HMN swan Class. Even through its a Sloops it breaks down all of the parts and pieces, giving the names of the timber's which will help you figure out your 74 and even show's how to figure out the head rails. Can't have enough info when it comes to those rail's. I could draw you a drawing of the head if need be and attached the measurements to it. Let me know. 

Thanks Hubac. If I told you it took me just about a month on and off with every thing else. Now all I have to do is make the aft one in 2 week's. 😊probably not

Well good sir's I just about have the forward capstan completed, just need to add  a few more items to the upper capstan and then I can get started on the main one. Gary 

Well Kurtis hate to say it sir but the two hardest parts on the ship is the stern and bow. Have to agree with you and working on the other stuff should give you time to figure out those area's. For me I have been trying for years to figure them out and still get a headache. They do take a lot of time that's for sure 

well good sir it's a bit complicated, It seems to have taken me three tries making the  barrel, didn't like the darker color wood and then the next one my measurment were way off, don't know how that happen, guess I zigged insteads of zagging. For me it was the whelp's because they not only taper going up but taper going back. The other thing with them is trying to get the scores on the sides of them to line up with each other.  Then again I just might of made it complicated.  

Well good sir's I just about have the forward capstan completed, just need to add  a few more items to the upper capstan and then I can get started on the main one. Gary 

Thank you very much Steve. She is my baby thats for sure . Why else would one spend 20 years with her. 😊  She doesn't have a stain good sir just a couple of coats of bee's wax mixed with turpentine. Welcome to the site, you couldn't find a better place any were on the internet.  Allan if you need to steal my log to welcome a new member you go right ahead and look forward to your next update. Gary

Hi Kurtis. The part that you talk about the runs completed through the ship is the keel. It did in fact taper from the middle to both ends being 18 inches squared in the middle,14" at the gripe and 12 1/2" at the forward edge of the rudder. The area where the crew took care of their business was a small deck which had seat's of ease, better known as toilets, and was called the beakhead . As far as finding out what the gripe in todays  dictionary, does not exist so what you need is a dictionary from the 18th century like Falconer Universal Dictionary of the Marine. Can't remember other one's but there out there.  I took a picture of the 74 gun ship Bellona which shows the parts of the knee of the head along with the other parts that make up the knee. Some thing about figure B3/2 at the top is the stem at it widest at the top and shows that it also get's tapered going down to the keel(item 1) . In front of the stem is the  knee of the head once it has been tapered.  Photo B3/2 show's a head on view of the taper from the stem- (item 3) to the  seat of the figure head ( item 16) . the taper also goes from the Gripe (Item 6) at the bottom of the knee  to the seat of the figure head( item 16)  I also added  another couple of photo's showing how the rail's was done. The photo's should help you and if you need any more info or just what a word means just let me know. When I started building them the biggest hurdle was figuring out what word went with what item of the ship. Thought I was going to go bonkers trying to figure them out. Gary