garyshipwright

Well guys, sort of out done my self this time on updates, figure it was time to work on the mast to make sure it fit in place before I can't get to certain places. After a couple of daysI finally got the fore mast looking some thing like a mast, but still a long way to go with it but its a start. Have to say thank you to Alan and druxey for info on the mast and helping me bring it to life. 

First band of planks complete

Two to go and we will have the first band complete

Top and butt planking continues

Hi
Little progress

The channels were made and installed next.  These were glued and pinned to the hull.  The covering strip is only temporarily installed.  These also have a carved edge, similar but slightly narrower than the sheer rail.

The deadeyes were turned from swiss pear.  The chains are brass,  The middle link was silver soldered and shaped first.  The toe link and deadeye binding were then installed.  These were shaped and the deadeye installed after they were soldered.  The ironwork was then blackened and given a coat of matte finish.  The preventer plate was cut out from sheet brass.

Next up was making the drift rail and hance.  The hance is a section of rail that forms almost a ninety degree bend as it connects the drift rail with the planksheer.  I tried several times to carve it from a single piece of costelo.  I finally gave up and made it from three laminations, heat bent to shape.  This has the same molded edge as the planksheer.  Below the drift rail is the wider drift molding which terminates in a volute just behind the hance.  We are now up to eight molding profiles.

I decided to paint the rails and their extensions onto the hull, the planksheer and the drift rail.  To prevent getting paint on the hull, the undersurface of these would be painted off the model, the rails installed and then the upper surface and edges painted.  The planksheer offered no difficulty.  Because the curvature of the roughtree rail was gentler, I was able to heat bend a strip of costelo to the required shape.  The photo is after a few coats of very thin artist acrylic paint.  It still needs cleaning up and a coat of finish applied.


 
 

Well guys, sort of out done my self this time on updates, figure it was time to work on the mast to make sure it fit in place before I can't get to certain places. After a couple of daysI finally got the fore mast looking some thing like a mast, but still a long way to go with it but its a start. Have to say thank you to Alan and druxey for info on the mast and helping me bring it to life. 

Well guys, sort of out done my self this time on updates, figure it was time to work on the mast to make sure it fit in place before I can't get to certain places. After a couple of daysI finally got the fore mast looking some thing like a mast, but still a long way to go with it but its a start. Have to say thank you to Alan and druxey for info on the mast and helping me bring it to life. 

Well guys, sort of out done my self this time on updates, figure it was time to work on the mast to make sure it fit in place before I can't get to certain places. After a couple of daysI finally got the fore mast looking some thing like a mast, but still a long way to go with it but its a start. Have to say thank you to Alan and druxey for info on the mast and helping me bring it to life. 

Well guys, sort of out done my self this time on updates, figure it was time to work on the mast to make sure it fit in place before I can't get to certain places. After a couple of daysI finally got the fore mast looking some thing like a mast, but still a long way to go with it but its a start. Have to say thank you to Alan and druxey for info on the mast and helping me bring it to life. 

Well guys, sort of out done my self this time on updates, figure it was time to work on the mast to make sure it fit in place before I can't get to certain places. After a couple of daysI finally got the fore mast looking some thing like a mast, but still a long way to go with it but its a start. Have to say thank you to Alan and druxey for info on the mast and helping me bring it to life. 

Thanks Siggi. It's no problem, the new photo show's what was missing, the  over head view of the forcastle. Thank you again Gary

Thanks Siggi. It's no problem, the new photo show's what was missing, the  over head view of the forcastle. Thank you again Gary

Hi Siggi. I gain a lot of information when going through your log and really enjoy what the crew is doing, which is a really outstanding job. Watching what your doing really help's my crew carry on with building Montague/Alfred.   Look forward to the next job that your crew under takes in the coming future.  

Have to agree with you 100 percent No Idea. Really outstanding work Albert. Been watching your build and she is really growing. 

Thanks Siggi. It's no problem, the new photo show's what was missing, the  over head view of the forcastle. Thank you again Gary

Looks good Siggi. On the one photo that you showed  how you  draw out the size of the main headrail what angle are you using? Thank's Gary

Thanks Siggi. It's no problem, the new photo show's what was missing, the  over head view of the forcastle. Thank you again Gary

Looks good Siggi. On the one photo that you showed  how you  draw out the size of the main headrail what angle are you using? Thank's Gary

Allan, I haven't decided much farther than frames yet. I'd definitely be interested in your drawings. I scratch built the launch for my Mayflower blindly and it may have become a bit too modern by accident.
 
 
I used a jeweler's saw to start getting the frames to the correct height:

I attached some spacers temporarily inside these frames with CA glue before I sand these.

I finally decided to get this ship her own table inside. I usually work outside on my third floor patio that I converted to a workshop (because we had a baby and the nursery is on the first floor adjacent to the garage where I would probably prefer to work). I couldn't run any machinery if he was napping. 
 
So I got a cheap table so I can drill into it as necessary. 

The riding bitt standards have been smoothed out with a sanding drum so they are ready for the edges to be beveled and other details. I finished the stove base and used some black and rust weathering powder to make it look more like metal. I am not sure I achieved that but at least it is more interesting to look at now. The color in the images is too brown for what it looks like in real life, which is more grey.
 

 
 

Thanks very much Alan. I could build you one, but I wouldn't want to deprive you of all the fun building your own. What scale do you need?
 
Today I glued the drain cocks into place. I also made the two rails, drilled the holes in the stove for them, blackened them, and glued them in place. I then glued the pulleys to their shafts and glued the small pulley shaft into the chimney. There is a bracket that holds up the shaft behind the pulley which I glued to the side of the stove. The spit is not glued to anything so I was able to adjust the size of the chain until I had a good fit then add it to the pulleys. I held the ends of the chain together with a loop of wire, which is hidden under the small pulley.
 

 
That completes the construction of the stove itself. I will do some weathering on it at some point. I am now painting and constructing the base for the stove. Once that is finished I'll start on the riding bitts, then the beams and carlings for the display.