garyshipwright

Have to agree with you 100 percent No Idea. Really outstanding work Albert. Been watching your build and she is really growing. 

Hi Every one, Its been awhile since my last update and most probably figure I fell off the ends of the world. Well the misses sent me a life line and  finally went back to doing some thing on her. I sort of been stuck  on the cables and how the messenger was routed. Ben from Ropes of Scale help me on the cable and Druxey gave me the ideal about the snatch block.  So  I went to work on making a snatch block for the messenger using Lee's measurement, from his  book The Masting and Rigging of English ships. It didn't come out to bad But I leave that up to you. 

Hi Every one, Its been awhile since my last update and most probably figure I fell off the ends of the world. Well the misses sent me a life line and  finally went back to doing some thing on her. I sort of been stuck  on the cables and how the messenger was routed. Ben from Ropes of Scale help me on the cable and Druxey gave me the ideal about the snatch block.  So  I went to work on making a snatch block for the messenger using Lee's measurement, from his  book The Masting and Rigging of English ships. It didn't come out to bad But I leave that up to you. 

Hi Every one, Its been awhile since my last update and most probably figure I fell off the ends of the world. Well the misses sent me a life line and  finally went back to doing some thing on her. I sort of been stuck  on the cables and how the messenger was routed. Ben from Ropes of Scale help me on the cable and Druxey gave me the ideal about the snatch block.  So  I went to work on making a snatch block for the messenger using Lee's measurement, from his  book The Masting and Rigging of English ships. It didn't come out to bad But I leave that up to you. 

Hi Johann tank you, photo 
 

Good morning.

Good morning.

Thank you Chuck, its nice to be back to working on her. 

Hi Every one, Its been awhile since my last update and most probably figure I fell off the ends of the world. Well the misses sent me a life line and  finally went back to doing some thing on her. I sort of been stuck  on the cables and how the messenger was routed. Ben from Ropes of Scale help me on the cable and Druxey gave me the ideal about the snatch block.  So  I went to work on making a snatch block for the messenger using Lee's measurement, from his  book The Masting and Rigging of English ships. It didn't come out to bad But I leave that up to you. 

Hi Every one, Its been awhile since my last update and most probably figure I fell off the ends of the world. Well the misses sent me a life line and  finally went back to doing some thing on her. I sort of been stuck  on the cables and how the messenger was routed. Ben from Ropes of Scale help me on the cable and Druxey gave me the ideal about the snatch block.  So  I went to work on making a snatch block for the messenger using Lee's measurement, from his  book The Masting and Rigging of English ships. It didn't come out to bad But I leave that up to you. 

Hi Guys and thank you.
Guy,your very welcome sir and glad that you are enjoying the photo's hopfully more will come.
 
Thank you Chuck,the hooks and blocks are a nice addition to the gun's. Thank you for them and should be ordering some more in the next couple of weeks or so.. Am sure you told me this but can you remind me of what type of metal you used? They seems to have a lot of strength.
 
YaRus, According to the contracts I have, it gives the height of the orlop deck to the gun deck as being 6 foot 6 inches from the beam of the orlop deck to the bottom of the gun deck planks. The gun deck from the upper deck as 7 feet, which was from the top of the plank of the gundeck to the top of the upper deck plank. The upper deck height was at the quarter deck as 6 foot 9 and at the forecastle as 6 foot 6 1/2 inches which was taken from the upper part of the deck planking to the top of the quarter deck and forecastle deck beams.
 
Remco your cannon's was a big help sir in the way that you rigged them. Your's gave me some thing to shoot for.
 
Thanks Brian, do hope she is of some help to you as you build yours. I take it that you are following the practicum by Romero. It does give one good ideal's but I sort of went down a different path of building Montagu. For me I wanted a more accurate Montagu then what you would get using Harold's and Romero to build one. If you have any question along the way let me know sir. I do take it you will be framing it using Harold's type of framing and jig? Good luck and look forward to your build log.
 
Well folks here is another update on Montagu and this time it's in making rope for the cannons. I have had a rope walk which was built by a good friend, of mine, Tom Nance, and purchased it from his wife after he passed away. It sort of been stowed away until I have had a need for some rope and after spending some time expertmenting I manage to make some rope for the cannons along with the messenger that you saw in the last post. It is based on the same rope walk that Frolick used in his book The art of shipbuilding. Another one of the photo's shows the pile of parts and pieces setting on the work bench waiting to be installed on the gun carriages, that is as soon as I have a little time to work on them. As you can see in another photo, my rope walk can be any length which at the moment is about ten feet long. .
Gary

Hi Guys. Here is another update on bringing the log along or at least a step closer to what it was. This time its about Montagu frames which was built up using some ideals from the shipwright's of old, such as the  wooden templates the used to shape and cut out the timbers that made up the frames, accept mine are paper. My frames are drawn on the wood and cut out piece by piece and glued together on top of the frame drawing's like in the photo's. If my memory can remember back that far it took about 1500 hundred pieces of wood to make all of her frames give or take a couple. Guess I should sat down and get a count of how many pieces there really was but after about 500 I stop counting. As you can see in the photo's the new water lines helped on a more accurated framing drawing and joint lay out. One item that you won't see is chock's because most frames was built up not using them. I did in fact build a few frames with them but most do not have them. One might ask, what about strength, which is why one glues frames back to back to help strengthen the joints. My frames came out very strong but when it came to the framing I didn't want to take any chances so any time I sanded on the frames, i add tempory ribbands to support the frames along with shimmens glued between the two frames  which was later removed. Any question just ask away. Gary
 
Just a addition to Montagu frames. Being that I didn't go by Montagu frames sizes on the plan,  I use a 74 gun contract that was written in 1781 to give me the sizes of the frame timbers. When others  in the future  build their own 74. Just remember this is full size measurement.
 
 
Frame. It being of the utmost Consequence to the strength of the ship,that all the timbers of the frame should as much as possible be preserved from being cut by the ports on each deck, a disposition for that purpose is made on the said draught, and as a further means to obtain it, the said timbers appointed to make the sides of the ports being continued up to the top of the side, are to be framed in bends, 1ft, 2d, 3d and 4th futtocks and top timbers together as distinguished on the draught and fastened with three bolts of 1 1/4 inches in each scarph, and that the first futtocks bebe bolted to the respective floors of every bend, with 3 bolts of 1 1/4 inches diameter, that the stations of the said frames so distinguished, are to be preserved with great exactness, and for such of them as stand afore and abrest the square, and are to be canted, these also are to keep their stations, at the breadth, and what is required to give the fashion piece and beakhead timbers a proper flight , or cant, according to the turn of the body, should be done b reducing the room and space on the side of the keel and as by this disposition of the frames in their several stations, they are respectively appointed to make the sides of every gun deck port, and one side of every upper deck ports is at once provided for by them, as one 4th futtock and one top timber proper will make the side of every gun deck port, one top timber proper, and either a 4th futtock continued up, when can be got of a length will make the said side of such upper deck port is to be made by the top timber which come under the port, being formed in a cast over the 4th futtock head, and run , taking care that the said cast be so disposed that it be not cut of as to hurt the timber by the lower cell of the port, or as shall be directed. And as all ships should be kept as light as possible in her upper works, consistent with the service required of them, so the frame should not be incumbered with a timber more than is necessary for the several offices for which they may be wanted, and two short timbers and by no means more sided as the lower end 11 inches, and at the upper deck 9 1/2 inches, stands upon the cell of every gun deck port, properly place to receive an upper deck standard, quarter deck port or such other service necessary to their stations, and there be also 2 short timbers admitted to stand on the cell of every upper deck port sided 10 inches at the lower, and 9 inches at the upper end, which, with such as are nesassary to make the gallery doors from the quarters, make the sides of the quarter deck ports, filling inbetween the formost frame and Hawse pieces, the whole ship's frame will be sufficiently full , every purpose answered, and not the least occasion for more, every frame bend to be separated with pieces of dry oak in wake of the bolts for bolting the frames together, or as shall be directed.
 
Floor timbers. Between 3 and C the were sided 1 foot 4 inches and from 3 to 15 aft and from C to N forward they were sided 1foot 2 1/2 inches, and from there aft and forward 1 foot 1 1/2 inches and in wake of the half timbers o feet 11 inches or as the space of the cant timbers will admit. To be in length 26 feet and afore and abaft as the draught directs. No chocks to be larger on any floor timbers than will admit of 1 foot 4 inches whole wood below the cutting down in the midship, and afore and abaft to increase as the shape of the timber may require for strength, and to be moulded at the heads 1 boot 1 /1/2 inches, and afore and abaft the frame, every other floor timber to be bolted through the main keel and bolts carefully clenched before the false keel is put under, by bolts of 1 1/2 inches in diameter.
 
Lower Futtocks. In the midships from timber N to 12 inclusive to sided 1 foot 2 1/2 inches, from N to the foremost floor forward and from 12 to the aftermost floor aft to be sided 1 foot 1 1/2 inches, and in wake of the half timbers according to the room and space, the cant timbers allow, that the said futtocks run down to the deadwood, and not to have less than 6 inches whole wood there, to have chocks across on the heels of them to supply the wood that my be wanting from thence, to the cutting down on inside of the floor timbers, and that they scarph on the second futtock in midships 7 feet 0 inches, and afore and abaft 5 feet 8 inches, or agreeable to what is offered on the draught, and to be in and out, or moulded at the heads 12 3/4 inches.
 
Second Futtocks. The Second Futtocks to be sided between timber N and 14 inclusive in the said draught, 1 foot 1 1/2 inches, from thence forward and aft 1 foot 1 inches, or in wake of the cant timber , according to what is required from the room and space of them, to have 7 feet 0 inches scarph in the midships to the third futtocks, and afore and abaft as expressed on the draught , and to moulded at the heads 12 1/4 inches, not to have less than 3 1/2 inches whole wood at the heels of double futtocks, and half timbers afore and abaft.
 
Third Futtocks. The third futtocks to be sided 1 foot 1 inches, to give scarph to the fourth futtocks in midship 7 feet 0 inches, and not less than 5 feet 8 inches afore and abaft, that those timbers that come under the gun deck ports run up to the cell, and to me moulded at the run of the third futtock heads 11 5/8 inches and in and out at the gun deck 11 1/2 inches.
 
Fourth Futtock. The Upper or fourth futtocks in the midships to be sided 1 foot 1 inches, to have scarph to the top timbers in midships 11 feet 6 inches and not less than 9 feet 6 inches, afore and abaft, and to be moulded, or in and out at the range of the upper deck waterways 10 1/2 inches, that all those appointed to make the sides of the gun deck and upper deck ports, be well grown young strong timber, free from sap or wain, and as the bigness of the gun deck port is 3 feet 5 inches fore and aft, and the room and space of the frames on each side of them 5feet 5 inches, there must remain full 12 inches timber from the moulding side of each fourth futtock or top timber to the side of the port, after the port is trimmed out to the bigness, and there fore great care is to be observed that such as are appointed to make the sides of ports conform in their sidings accordingly, that when the port is formed to its bigness fore and aft, not the least sap or wain to be found in the timber in wake thereof, and that all such as come in the wake of the main and fore channels, or that make the sides of the gun or upper deck ports run up to the top of the side, or at least and many of them as can be got, and that none of those that make the sides of the gun deck ports be less then 3 feet 0 inches square timber, above the upper cell of the gun deck port.
 
Top Timbers. The top timbers in Midships to run down to the lower edge of the upper strake of the gun deck clamps, to be sided at the heel and at the upper futtock heads 0 feet 13 inches , and at the top of the side 0 feet 10 1/2 inches, except such as are appointed to make the sides of the upper deck ports, which ae to be continued the same bigness as below, or according to the room there is for them, and for those top timbers that are by being frames to make the sides of gun deck ports, the same care to be observed in respect to their bigness sideways, between the mouldings of the frames and the side of the port,, as has been mentioned of the upper futtocks and that those which are to make the sides ofr the upper deck ports, instead of such fourth futtocks as cannot run up to do that office, and requires to have a cast over the fourth futtock heads to clear itself of the side of the port for that purpose, to take care that it be well grown to form the said cast, and the cast disposed of proper to the height of the port, that the timber may not be wounded thereby, and not the least sap or wain be left remaining in the top timber in the wake of the gun deck and upper deck ports, when the ports are trimmed out, and the whole to be well grown young strong timber, and moulded at the top of the side at the run of the ribband at the top timber breadth in midships 5 1/2 inches, abaft 5 5/8 inches, and at the beakhead 6 1/4 inches, and at the fiferail from the second drift to the stern timber to moulded 4 1/2 inches, and from the drift forward in wake of the timber heads 5 1/2 inches, the frame to be disposed of agreeable to a drawing that will accompany the sheer draught.

Thanks you Albert.

Thank you druxey and your very welcome. 

Hi Clay. Well good sir my thought process on the framing  was I used butt's to hold the parts of the frame together that is shown on page 18 in Goodwin's book. Being a expert , thank you for that, but call my self more of a student who will never finish school.  When i started building my frames I did use chocks to hold the parts together but being that you make  about  a 130 frames it takes awhile  which is why I used the butt and dowel that hold's those parts together. Not as time consuming and once the planks  are installed on the outside and inside you can't see the chocks but if I had to do it again I would have installed the chocks, but today that is just a bit of hind sight on my part. Installing the chocks does take a while and after three years of framing figure chocks would have added 2 years to their building, for me anyway. Chock's would be more accurate doing our time frame. Now the sister frames  would have been called bends and it seems that He shows this on page 14,16 and 18. What they usually did, as far as I can tell in Alfred's/Warrior time frame,  would be to to build one bend( two frames put together as one) two single filling frames that did not touch each other and then another bend. Some where around the dead flat there was a changing of the floors so at that place you would have a floor, a first futtock and then another floor.  What they did is at the forward part of the hull the floors would be on forward side and aft the would be on the aft side. I added  a photo of Alfred's framing plan and my framing ,  they are about as close as I can get them. If you look at station 1 and the dead flat you will see the switching of the floor. How you can tell is that there is three filling frames between the two bend's and usually you only had two filler's.  Now the bend's didn't touch as the went up but was pushed apart with blocks of wood , so the upper parts of the frame's could make up the side of the gun port. Those parts of the frame were bolted together were the blocks were installed . I colored those blocks black and shows that this was a station and the filling frames did not have those blocks. Hope this makes sense Clay. Gary

Hi Every one, Its been awhile since my last update and most probably figure I fell off the ends of the world. Well the misses sent me a life line and  finally went back to doing some thing on her. I sort of been stuck  on the cables and how the messenger was routed. Ben from Ropes of Scale help me on the cable and Druxey gave me the ideal about the snatch block.  So  I went to work on making a snatch block for the messenger using Lee's measurement, from his  book The Masting and Rigging of English ships. It didn't come out to bad But I leave that up to you. 

Hi Every one, Its been awhile since my last update and most probably figure I fell off the ends of the world. Well the misses sent me a life line and  finally went back to doing some thing on her. I sort of been stuck  on the cables and how the messenger was routed. Ben from Ropes of Scale help me on the cable and Druxey gave me the ideal about the snatch block.  So  I went to work on making a snatch block for the messenger using Lee's measurement, from his  book The Masting and Rigging of English ships. It didn't come out to bad But I leave that up to you. 

The running rigging of the spritsail is ready. Although not in use, all necessary ropework for this sail should be in place.
Paintings and drawings from this era served as example.

current status

Next to do, the fore sail
 
 
 

Hi Every one, Its been awhile since my last update and most probably figure I fell off the ends of the world. Well the misses sent me a life line and  finally went back to doing some thing on her. I sort of been stuck  on the cables and how the messenger was routed. Ben from Ropes of Scale help me on the cable and Druxey gave me the ideal about the snatch block.  So  I went to work on making a snatch block for the messenger using Lee's measurement, from his  book The Masting and Rigging of English ships. It didn't come out to bad But I leave that up to you. 

beginning of upper deck laying:

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Every one, Its been awhile since my last update and most probably figure I fell off the ends of the world. Well the misses sent me a life line and  finally went back to doing some thing on her. I sort of been stuck  on the cables and how the messenger was routed. Ben from Ropes of Scale help me on the cable and Druxey gave me the ideal about the snatch block.  So  I went to work on making a snatch block for the messenger using Lee's measurement, from his  book The Masting and Rigging of English ships. It didn't come out to bad But I leave that up to you. 

Hi Every one, Its been awhile since my last update and most probably figure I fell off the ends of the world. Well the misses sent me a life line and  finally went back to doing some thing on her. I sort of been stuck  on the cables and how the messenger was routed. Ben from Ropes of Scale help me on the cable and Druxey gave me the ideal about the snatch block.  So  I went to work on making a snatch block for the messenger using Lee's measurement, from his  book The Masting and Rigging of English ships. It didn't come out to bad But I leave that up to you. 

Hi Every one, Its been awhile since my last update and most probably figure I fell off the ends of the world. Well the misses sent me a life line and  finally went back to doing some thing on her. I sort of been stuck  on the cables and how the messenger was routed. Ben from Ropes of Scale help me on the cable and Druxey gave me the ideal about the snatch block.  So  I went to work on making a snatch block for the messenger using Lee's measurement, from his  book The Masting and Rigging of English ships. It didn't come out to bad But I leave that up to you. 

Hi Every one, Its been awhile since my last update and most probably figure I fell off the ends of the world. Well the misses sent me a life line and  finally went back to doing some thing on her. I sort of been stuck  on the cables and how the messenger was routed. Ben from Ropes of Scale help me on the cable and Druxey gave me the ideal about the snatch block.  So  I went to work on making a snatch block for the messenger using Lee's measurement, from his  book The Masting and Rigging of English ships. It didn't come out to bad But I leave that up to you. 

Hi Every one, Its been awhile since my last update and most probably figure I fell off the ends of the world. Well the misses sent me a life line and  finally went back to doing some thing on her. I sort of been stuck  on the cables and how the messenger was routed. Ben from Ropes of Scale help me on the cable and Druxey gave me the ideal about the snatch block.  So  I went to work on making a snatch block for the messenger using Lee's measurement, from his  book The Masting and Rigging of English ships. It didn't come out to bad But I leave that up to you.