garyshipwright

Hi pm. I do believe that the showing of the eyebolts on the outside were a french/continental preference. But am also not sure that this was that, a preference. When you go through the photo's of the models in  the Musee de la Marine collection, Historic Ship models you will see that most  of them do not have the through bolts on the outside just like the English models in the NMM.  Doesn't mean they didn't do it but each country did things a little different in their ship building. In one of the contract that I have, and was written in 1782 for a 74 gun ship, which I believe  was also used for the Bellerophon, has information on how the eyebolts were installed for the gun ports.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 To have four Ring, and two Eye bolts to each gun port with bolts of 1 3/8 inches diameter two of the ring bolts to be place in the second timber from the port, the rings 5 inches diameter in the clear, the eye sufficiently open for the tackle hooks. To have sufficient number of ring bolts on the deck for the guns, with bolts of  1 1/8 inches diameter and for the stoppers with bolts of 1 5/8 inches diameter the diameter of the rings of the stopper bolts 6 1/2 inches in the clear with short snug eyes, let well down into the deck and the ends of the bolts to be clenched.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    To have two eye bolts over each port for lashing the guns of 1 1/4 and to be placed as high as possible , to give the better room for securing the muzzle of the gun on the clamp, the eyes to be 2 5/8 inches in the clear, the ring and eye bolts to be well forelocked and so well let in, as  only to let the ring have play, the bolts that forelock with out board to have short thick points and fore lock holes that the rings may be let into the wood in belaying them.                                                                                                                                                                   It is  your model and if you want to show the through bolts,  that is total up to you and others. It is a nice detail but I think I will wait  on the next one that I do. This is a little late  but maybe it might help the next person. Gary                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              

Hi pm. I do believe that the showing of the eyebolts on the outside were a french/continental preference. But am also not sure that this was that, a preference. When you go through the photo's of the models in  the Musee de la Marine collection, Historic Ship models you will see that most  of them do not have the through bolts on the outside just like the English models in the NMM.  Doesn't mean they didn't do it but each country did things a little different in their ship building. In one of the contract that I have, and was written in 1782 for a 74 gun ship, which I believe  was also used for the Bellerophon, has information on how the eyebolts were installed for the gun ports.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 To have four Ring, and two Eye bolts to each gun port with bolts of 1 3/8 inches diameter two of the ring bolts to be place in the second timber from the port, the rings 5 inches diameter in the clear, the eye sufficiently open for the tackle hooks. To have sufficient number of ring bolts on the deck for the guns, with bolts of  1 1/8 inches diameter and for the stoppers with bolts of 1 5/8 inches diameter the diameter of the rings of the stopper bolts 6 1/2 inches in the clear with short snug eyes, let well down into the deck and the ends of the bolts to be clenched.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    To have two eye bolts over each port for lashing the guns of 1 1/4 and to be placed as high as possible , to give the better room for securing the muzzle of the gun on the clamp, the eyes to be 2 5/8 inches in the clear, the ring and eye bolts to be well forelocked and so well let in, as  only to let the ring have play, the bolts that forelock with out board to have short thick points and fore lock holes that the rings may be let into the wood in belaying them.                                                                                                                                                                   It is  your model and if you want to show the through bolts,  that is total up to you and others. It is a nice detail but I think I will wait  on the next one that I do. This is a little late  but maybe it might help the next person. Gary                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              

Hi Siggi. I gain a lot of information when going through your log and really enjoy what the crew is doing, which is a really outstanding job. Watching what your doing really help's my crew carry on with building Montague/Alfred.   Look forward to the next job that your crew under takes in the coming future.  

Hi Siggi. I gain a lot of information when going through your log and really enjoy what the crew is doing, which is a really outstanding job. Watching what your doing really help's my crew carry on with building Montague/Alfred.   Look forward to the next job that your crew under takes in the coming future.  

Hi Siggi. I gain a lot of information when going through your log and really enjoy what the crew is doing, which is a really outstanding job. Watching what your doing really help's my crew carry on with building Montague/Alfred.   Look forward to the next job that your crew under takes in the coming future.  

Hi Siggi. I gain a lot of information when going through your log and really enjoy what the crew is doing, which is a really outstanding job. Watching what your doing really help's my crew carry on with building Montague/Alfred.   Look forward to the next job that your crew under takes in the coming future.  

Hello
and thank you all for your nice comments and likes, they are very appreciated 
today I installed the first parts to the fore and main channels. Don't ask me how there name is 😟 They are in the second row. Next, in the first row, the deadeyes are to be done.
 

 

Hello,
Dowmer, here is the second and last lesson: how to carve scrolls 😉
The left is ready and the other prepared for finial carving
 

 
And here they are build in. The varnish and glue are not already dry, so I have to correct may be this and that tomorrow. 
If you look at the yellow part of the hull, it's fascinating how much of the planking you could see, even when there are now 4 layers of paint on it. 
 

Thank you for your likes and comments,
and here the reason why I started to make the hinges. I would have all port lids ready for painting when I at least paint the hull. But there are those who get the anchor lining. But now they are also ready.
 

 

 

Outstanding Piotrek. What a wonderful build and the detail is out of this world. Thank you for giving us the chance to look at and enjoy your build on a very well built ship model. Gary

Thank you popash42 hope that you enjoyed it. Seems am a little slow at the moment but hope I will be picking up the pace soon. Gary

I made the carlings the same way I did on the capstan project. I first milled the notches in the beams and cleaned them up with a small chisel. I cut the tenons in the ends of the carlings with a razor saw to fit into the notches. The plans show these angling toward the center which I was able to do with the carlings between the aft and middle beams. The notices were milled at the 87 degree angle of the carlings so the ends fit correctly in them. The plans show the carlings between the middle and fore beam are also angled and go under the standards, but the standards are notched to fit down over the beams. I could either have removed some of the bottom of the standards to fit over the top of the carlings but I decided to just fit them so they didn't go under the standards. I also added two boards along the insides of the standards on the three beams that the stove base plate sits on, since it does extend all the way to the aft beam. The legs on each end of the stove line up nicely with the middle and fore beams. Here is everything so far dry fit.
 

 
Next I will clean up all these pieces, round the appropriate edges, and add the details to the cross piece. Then I can start putting them all together.

starting marking heights
I've got the four hawse hole locations marked (at two per side) and six gun deck gunports marked (at three per side)
I measured off the original 1:48 plan x 48 / 64 to get my scale measurement. Double checked that to my 1:64 plan.  Then marked them on the model.
 
I use a soft "preacher pencil" to mark the four corners and a flexible ruler to hold tight to the curve of the frames and connect the dots with a line.
I learnt the term "preacher " versus "farmer" pencil yesterday morning on television watching the master woodworker from Eureka California.
A preacher pencil has a fine point to mark the truth or true location.
A farmer pencil has a dull point to mark a wider line as a guide for cutting with ease allowing a bit of wander.
Both have one thing in common.... an eraser on the end!
He cracks me up.
 
Below are a couple photos of my using my height gauge.  It can also be used inboard.

Moving forward, though much slower...
 

 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

Hi Kevin I have to agree with you on the movement because Alfred's frames did the same thing when I was trying to sand them down. One of the things I did, is along the same lines but I made some temporary ribbands and use bread ties to tie then in place. Didn't think about PVA at that time You can get roll's  of this stuff, at a cheap price.  The photo's below show some of the temporary ribbands. 

A glass scraper works well - with the other edges taped!

Gary this is a very good way to get a lot of subtle soft curves and I can attest to it working extremely well. I used this method to finish shaping a pull saw handle made of birds eye Maple. and the edge stays sharp for a long time.
 
Getting to the final shaping must feel really great Alan. It looks good, and I like your tilting table. and the plant stands.
 
Michael
 

Outstanding Piotrek. What a wonderful build and the detail is out of this world. Thank you for giving us the chance to look at and enjoy your build on a very well built ship model. Gary

The oar port lid has been installed.  The hinge is flattened copper wire and the knuckle is brass rod.  My metal skills are insufficient to build a functional hinge this tiny, so the lid is glued in place.  Although the plan shows two fenders, I only had room for one.  I must have made a measurement error at the beginning of the build and I refuse to start over!  The outer face of the fender is carved with a scraper and bolted to the hull.  I had to make five scraper shapes for the various fittings seen in the picture.  The steps were made in one long strip which was cut to length and the side curves were made with a U-chisel and files.  Aft of the gunport are the holes for the pins which will attach to the channel.

KONIEC 🙂
 
 

Finally, it’s back on the inside.....
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

Hi Kevin I have to agree with you on the movement because Alfred's frames did the same thing when I was trying to sand them down. One of the things I did, is along the same lines but I made some temporary ribbands and use bread ties to tie then in place. Didn't think about PVA at that time You can get roll's  of this stuff, at a cheap price.  The photo's below show some of the temporary ribbands. 

Kevin,  Your method is basically what I have done and it works well.  The only difference is I glue a few temporary strakes on the outside and fair the inside first.   Then when it is done I glue the clamps and a few strakes near the keel.  Once these are set I remove the temporary strakes on the outside of the hull and fair the frames outboard.   I wonder if it really matters which is done first, inboard or outboard.   
Allan

Hi Kevin I have to agree with you on the movement because Alfred's frames did the same thing when I was trying to sand them down. One of the things I did, is along the same lines but I made some temporary ribbands and use bread ties to tie then in place. Didn't think about PVA at that time You can get roll's  of this stuff, at a cheap price.  The photo's below show some of the temporary ribbands. 

Hi Kevin I have to agree with you on the movement because Alfred's frames did the same thing when I was trying to sand them down. One of the things I did, is along the same lines but I made some temporary ribbands and use bread ties to tie then in place. Didn't think about PVA at that time You can get roll's  of this stuff, at a cheap price.  The photo's below show some of the temporary ribbands.