Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click on photo to order.
×
Heronguy
-
Posts
863 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
Heronguy reacted to donrobinson in Help needed for handling cross-grain parts without splitting
Looks like you found the right combination, maybe a little time consuming but it is working for you. Keep going
-
Heronguy got a reaction from Canute in Help needed for handling cross-grain parts without splitting
I'm working on an older kit - well before laser cut sheets were used - and have to cut out and sand various pieces for gunwales and such.
I've been cutting them out laboriously with x-acto knives. I'm ok as long as the pieces are along the grain or are large enough but I've had 2 or three splits on pieces like the one shown.
What are some of techniques that I should try?
Note: The only small power tool in my toolkit is a dremel. I've tried using a jewellers saw but it is hard to hold the part steady while sawing.
Doug
-
Heronguy reacted to Blighty in Chaperon by Blighty - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Weathered and aged - My first build log
I've started to construct the boiler asm and found a use for the meet tenderizer. I beat up the surface of what will be the ash pan to simulate a layer of ash, I've also added a coat of black paint to see if the effect is any good. Should work ok. Note I extended the front edge of the pan to show a little bit more. I will trim off the extra length when I've finished painting it. It gives me something to hold on too.
-
Heronguy got a reaction from geoff in Nearly new member saying hi!
Hi Len,
A fellow Ontarian saying welcome on the journey!
Doug
-
Heronguy got a reaction from Canute in Help needed for handling cross-grain parts without splitting
I hear you Steve. Maybe a spring project.
Doug
-
Heronguy reacted to skifflake in Help needed for handling cross-grain parts without splitting
Doug: I would use a round sanding bit on your Dermal. Try it on low speed first and keep a steady hand. Go lightly and try not to gouge or over sand. Pat
-
Heronguy reacted to donrobinson in Help needed for handling cross-grain parts without splitting
If there is enough wood on the billet, cut the pieces out very roughly then use a drum sander on your dremel for final shaping. If the pieces are going to be painted coat the delicate areas with thin ca glue, this will harden the wood up and help prevent splitting then cut and shape as mentioned.
This all I got, hope it helps.
-
Heronguy reacted to REXY in Help needed for handling cross-grain parts without splitting
Doug here is a little list of what i would consider as the right tool for the job, if you plan on continuing in the hobby it is never to early to buy some small power tools.
small Band saw would be the best i think, Scroll saw with a fine blade cutting on the down stroke would be the next best, scroll saws come in handy as you can just change the blade and work with metal ideal for brass.
Cheers Rexy.
-
Heronguy reacted to Everest in Help needed for handling cross-grain parts without splitting
Try this. Using a 1/16" drill, drill a line of holes about an 1/8" apart away from the line. Don't force the drill. When that's done connect the " dots" with the xacto knife. Again don't force the tool. You will have to go over the cut several times. Then sand to the line.
-
Heronguy reacted to Steve 12345 in Help needed for handling cross-grain parts without splitting
Hi rexy have you tried the scroll saw blades that cut in any direction pretty handy but can lead to mistakes also
Doug don't know if you have a drum sander but that would be helpful
Steve
-
Heronguy got a reaction from Nirvana in Chaperon by Blighty - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Weathered and aged - My first build log
Good start Len! Exciting to be building isn't it. When I finally got to the point where my hull was planked and smoothed I just wanted to hold the model for a while - it felt so nice to be able to handle it. Of course, next stages of construction - adding the bits and pieces mean you have to be careful again!
Doug
-
.thumb.jpeg.fc5d633a7b34428fcf19419a73d56d55.jpeg)
Heronguy got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Bluenose II by Heronguy - Billing Boats Nr. 600 - Scale 1:100 - First build
Well, some success with the dowels.
I invested in a dremel and a dremel "workstation" this week.
As I mentioned previously the fore topmast is former from a 3mm (1/8") dowel which conveniently fits in the 1/8" collet. Using the newly purchased dowel (since I broke the kit ones) I was able to successfully shape them as long as I carefully supported the dowel end (I was considering making a little support stand but had enough hands to be able to work!)
I used a file for the shaping and some sandpaper for a final smoothing.
The bottom of the mast needed a small reduction to fit the trestle tree and cap.
-
Heronguy got a reaction from Canute in Chaperon by Blighty - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Weathered and aged - My first build log
Good start Len! Exciting to be building isn't it. When I finally got to the point where my hull was planked and smoothed I just wanted to hold the model for a while - it felt so nice to be able to handle it. Of course, next stages of construction - adding the bits and pieces mean you have to be careful again!
Doug
-
Heronguy got a reaction from GemmaJF in Bluenose II by Heronguy - Billing Boats Nr. 600 - Scale 1:100 - First build
Well, some success with the dowels.
I invested in a dremel and a dremel "workstation" this week.
As I mentioned previously the fore topmast is former from a 3mm (1/8") dowel which conveniently fits in the 1/8" collet. Using the newly purchased dowel (since I broke the kit ones) I was able to successfully shape them as long as I carefully supported the dowel end (I was considering making a little support stand but had enough hands to be able to work!)
I used a file for the shaping and some sandpaper for a final smoothing.
The bottom of the mast needed a small reduction to fit the trestle tree and cap.
-
Heronguy reacted to Steve 12345 in Mare Nostrum by Steve 12345 - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - 1/35
Hi Doug the kit included the stern filler blocks In the form of laminated shapes I have never tried filler blocks before so can't comment but found the plywood laminate approach a breeze to sand just make sure it's hobby ply as ordinary ply wood from builder supply seems lot tougher to sand
-
Heronguy reacted to kurtvd19 in Chaperon by Blighty - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Weathered and aged - My first build log
Len:
To the right side of the attached photo of the hull of my Chaperon during assembly you can see a simple home-made planking clamp made from a common clothes pin. This type of clamp does no provide a lot of force, but it you soak the plank for a few minutes and clamp it in place to dry then when it's dry glue in place the use of a lot of force is not needed.
Kurt
-
Heronguy reacted to Cathead in Chaperon by Blighty - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Weathered and aged - My first build log
What you do, is you take apart one binder clip, and slip the silver handle horizontally between the black arms of another clip. The regular clip goes over your frame; the "extra" horizontal part presses flat against your plank and holds it in place. In other words, it takes two clips to make each one of these, but the result is a 3D clip that can hold planks horizontally against a vertical frame. For example, see the second photo on my build log here, which shows how these are holding a flat plank onto a set of vertical frames. If that still doesn't make sense, I can try to take a few photos to demonstrate. Again, not taking credit for this method, I just know where the photos are in my own build logs!
-
Heronguy reacted to Cathead in Chaperon by Blighty - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Weathered and aged - My first build log
Blighty, I suspect some of your spring-back is happening because you've reached the point where the planks start bending in several dimensions at once. The first few just wrap around a nice vertical curve, but as you go down they increasingly need to bend inward toward the keel, and that's the part that popped off; it's trying to maintain that nice, flat curve but the frames are sinking away beneath it. You may want to start tapering the planks more, or adding some horizontal bending to help them form that nice 3D curve.
You might consider using some form of planking clamps instead of pins; I've never liked the way pins make the wood split, especially on curves where the wood is already under stress. I like the "modified binder clip" approach, which I discussed with a few photos in a build log here. I certainly didn't come up with this idea and wish I could credit whomever did, because it works really well and is easier on the wood.
Apologies if you know all this; I don't mean to talk down to you. I'm an amateur too and appreciated all the help others have offered me as I've learned various skills in this fascinating hobby, and have an instinctive desire to want to return the favor. Please feel free to tell me to lay off!
-
Heronguy reacted to Robin Lous in How much are you willing to pay
I'm not yet convinced I can do justice to a large and expensive kit, so I'm not even looking at them.
It's not persé the money, but I don't want to start something I'm not ready for. That will only result in frustration and an abandoned build gathering dust.
Slowly going up in skill level...and price of the builds. Bireme €55,00....trireme €120,00...Duyfken (with extras) €225,00.
That feels about right
I better don't keep track of what I spend on books, tools and whatever more I (think) I need.
-
Heronguy reacted to EJ_L in Sirene 1775 by Roadking (Vincent) - Corel - Scale 1:75 - French Frigate - First wooden ship build
You will have a great looking model and you are right, the vast majority of your viewers won't know the difference. First models are learning experiences. My first wooden ship is full of imperfections and quite honestly some horrible things. Still, she sits proudly in her case in my living room. I like to see where I started and have always said that as long as you are improving from build to build you are growing and learning.
This hobby is as much about the journey as the finished product. Keep up the good work you are doing!
-
Heronguy reacted to Steve 12345 in Bluenose II by Heronguy - Billing Boats Nr. 600 - Scale 1:100 - First build
Another dilemma I faced Doug was when to start the taper perhaps others could advise further I tended to start from approx half way example bottom of dowel 4mm middle of dowel 4mm top of dowel 3mm
-
Heronguy got a reaction from Worldway in Bluenose II by Heronguy - Billing Boats Nr. 600 - Scale 1:100 - First build
Steve, I've tried the masking tape on the dowel. It still crushed the dowel in the chuck. I wonder if the wood in the kit supplied dowel is particularly soft. The parts list lists it as ramin. I imagine the ones in the local hardware are birch. I'll look tomorrow. I was careful with the sandpaper for the reason you indicated. I've seen the wrapping effect though I don't think that's what got me this time. I appreciate your suggestions!
Skifflake, nice to meet you. Is it this particular Bluenose II kit you've built? If so, may I ask you the odd question on things I'm having trouble interpreting on the plans? I also have a Artesania Latina Bluenose II in process. I've (mostly) been applying John H. Earl's mods to the kit instructions. Fixing the transom and bulwarks just now.
Doug
-
Heronguy got a reaction from mtaylor in Re-purposed Pland Bending Tool
Really useful for cutting pizza too.
Doug
-
Heronguy reacted to Steve 12345 in Bluenose II by Heronguy - Billing Boats Nr. 600 - Scale 1:100 - First build
Hi Doug roll some masking tape round the dowel before putting into the chuck also when wrapping the sand paper round the dowel if you do this the wrong direction it will tighten and snap the dowel out of your hand have it so if anything the sandpaper will loosen
-
Heronguy reacted to skifflake in Bluenose II by Heronguy - Billing Boats Nr. 600 - Scale 1:100 - First build
Hi Doug from Atlantic Canada: Keep updating me. I have actually built this twice. Looking forward..... Pat
Our Emblem ®
