flying_dutchman2

With my dental drill bits I have a block of wood with holes where I store the bits.  With all the drill bits, I took plastic Styrofoam from a DELL computer box.  Cut a block to size and put it in a tall cigar box. I just stick the bits in the foam.  It holds them up right.  I do like the elaborate set up that modeler12 has.  It is not a guessing game like what I have.

Wackowolf - Thanks for the link to "Drillbitcity", never heard of it, checked it out and like what they have.

Marc

Great ideas and the computer parts I do already. 

The Nautical Research Journal had a one page article that showed pieces from frames of glasses.  I have used the hinges from the frames on doors for some of my RC models. Starbuck in my area used to have bamboo stirrers.  I use them for tree nails.

That's it for now.

Marc

Ahoy;

Brief descriptions about 2 well researched books I am reading.

First: The True Story of the Mutiny of the Bounty.  By Caroline Alexander 2003, ISBN-978-0-14-200469-2

This book is extremely detailed and very well researched.  All of the events are well described.  Before the voyage.  The voyage out  to the South Pacific. The mutiny, The Pandora. The return of Bligh to Coupang (Dutch Colony) and the trail of the mutineers.  The author takes all this information and creates a seamless narrative.  Many of the sources are letters from the sailors to family and diaries that the men kept.

In the back of the book it has all the sources for each chapter and select biographies.  Best book I have read about the HMS Bounty.

Second:  The Slave Ship - A Human History.  By Marcus Rideker (professor of History) 2007 ISBN-978-0-14-311425-3

Another book that is well researched.  The book discusses in detail the life, death and terror of the slave trade. The evolution of it.  The so called "Middle Passage"  From Africa to either the West Indies or the USA.  Insurrections, the lives of sailors, death and diseases on particular slave ships.  This book is not just about what happens to the slaves but everything that has to do with it.  The people involved and then several last chapters of the abolition of slavery.  You read about accounts that are quoted from actual court proceedings.

Again well researched with lots of sources quoted for each chapter in the book. 

Thank you for reading my brief review.

Marc

I agree about Montfeld's book.  I use it all the time and Milton Roth's book - Ship Modeling from stem to stern.  Very general but good.  I use Google a lot and find lots of information on the NET.  So for me there is no need to purchase a lot of books.  Just some of the classics.

Marc

Thank you all for the suggestions,

"riverboat" - wow I like the site and will use it for my next order.  That they ship worldwide at a reasonable price is even better.  Thank you.

"TBlack" - I checked Rockler after I ordered from Woodcraft, thank you.

"garym" - I went to that site and the dowels were  more money than the others, but I do like what they have.

Thank you all for the info which I will use after I run out these dowels.

Marc

One thing to keep in mind is that when dealing with store bought dowels of any wood species, it is very difficult to know if the grain is running the length of the piece or not. In many cases, they grain is running across the piece in some way and that is one reason why dowels like that are prone to warping etc.

 

By beginning with a piece of straight hardwood stock, it is easier to get the grain running all in one direction to ensure that the piece will not tend to warp. Of course having good stock to begin with helps.

 

Russ

It would be wonderful if I had stock of different wood, but, I don't have the means to cut it in length.  You see, I have the bare minimum on electrical tools.  Dremel, drill, scroll saw and a basic planner and router.  No table saw.  I may be able to ask on of the members in my club to cut me some square stock as some of them have very elaborate shops with every electrical tool imaginable.

I have always made my models with hand tools.  Takes longer but I have total control.  After the Royal Mary, the plan is to built the Statenjacht Utrecht from scratch.  So may have to invest in a miniature table saw.

MARC

Querty......... that is amazing.  The way you did that....... put it in piece by piece and glued it together.  This is completely different compared to a long and narrow boat.

Excellent work and a WOW factor.

Marc

avsjerome2003: thanks for the videos and the one that would work for me is the one with the vice and the saw blade and that would be for large diameter dowels.  All the other vid's are people who have elaborate work shops which I don't have and don't really want to have.

russ: I am doing the suggestion you made in a somewhat different way.  I did go to woodcraft.com to buy dowels from beech and maple and some of different imported hardwoods.  If I need a 7mm mast I purchase the 8mm and just sand it down.  That also goes from the 5mm to the 4mm.  I have some square dowels and I will practice what I have in several of my books.  From square to octagon to round.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Marc

WOW, great links, thank you all.

Marc

Marc, I'm afraid the sizes and wood species would be difficult to find. The only alternative is buy wood stock and create your own dowels. If you scroll around on MSW, you will find a video showing you how to make your own dowels from wood stock.

 

Montani semper liberi.  Happy modeling

     Crackers   :mellow:

Do you happen to know what the link is to that video?

Marc

You will not find the dowels in the more interesting species. Usually you  get birch or basswood in ready made dowels. For the any other species, you will need to get square stock and make your own dowels from that.

 

Russ

Russ,

It is what I thought I had to do.  I can use a 5mm dia. dowel and turn it into a 4mm spar and the same goes for an 8mm dowel into a 7mm mast.

I have an article on how to make a round dowel from a square dowel.  Will have to study this and use my files, chisels, sand paper to get the masts and spars. Thanks for the suggestion.

Marc

Hello,

I am finishing up the Royal yacht Mary by Mamoli, and working on the masts and spars.  They are from basswood, all warped and break easily when you sand them thin.

I did some research in the books I have and a website from Gene Larson, on what type of wood to use for mast and spars.

They suggest the following: Sitka spruce, beech, lemon wood, lance wood, maple, cherry and red cedar. No basswood, the research says it is soft and warps.

I need the following dowel diameters and I have put them both in mm and inches.

8mm or 5/16"
7mm or 17/64"
6mm or 15/64"
5mm or 3/16"
4mm or 5/32"
3mm or 1/8"
2mm or 5/64"

In my area I checked these stores for ready made dowels:
Home Depot, Lowes, Michael's, hobby lobby and AC Moore and my local hobby stores - they all have basswood and do not have the odd sizes.

I checked on line and these don't have the odd sizes too.
http://www.nationalbalsa.com/
http://dlumberyard.com/index.html
http://www.hobbymillusa.com/
http://www.modelexpo-online.com/default.asp  (they used to have so much more)
http://www.woodcraft.com/

www.historicships.com
Does have the odd sizes but all of the wood is pricey.

Conclusion:  I can go to 3 stores on-line and buy here and there and pay a

lot for shipping OR have one (1) store that provides Everything.

Any suggestion of other places I missed that are reliable in the USA.  The NET has lots of places that sell dowels and Amazon is connected to many sites I have never heard off.  I need dowels that are not basswood.

Any suggestions is much appreciated.
Marc

Hello,

I am finishing up the Royal yacht Mary by Mamoli, and working on the masts and spars.  They are from basswood and I hate them.  They are warped and break easily when you sand them thin.

I did some research in the books I have and a website from Gene Larson, on what type of wood to use for mast and spars.

They suggest the following: Sitka spruce, lemon wood, lance wood, maple, cherry and red cedar.

I need the following diameters and I have put them both in mm and inches. 

8mm or 5/16"
7mm or 17/64"
6mm or 15/64"
5mm or 3/16"
4mm or 5/32"
3mm or 1/8"
2mm or 5/64"

I have checked the following places for dowels and diameters and types wood They all have the common diameters but not 5/64 or 15/62.

http://www.nationalbalsa.com/
http://dlumberyard.com/index.html
http://www.hobbymillusa.com/
http://www.modelexpo-online.com/default.asp  (they used to have so much more)
http://www.woodcraft.com/

Any suggestion of other places I missed that are reliable in the USA.  The NET has lots of places that sell dowels and Amazon is connected to many sites I have never heard of.

Any suggestions on the type of wood and where to buy is much appreciated.
Marc

Thanks for sharing.

Marc

Piet;

I looked up your builds and this one is intense, pretty big as well. You have a fascinating introduction to this thread.  Thank you for sharing.  Took me a while reading through all the information and checking the pictures, but well worth it.  I will be following this one.

Groeten,

Marc

the closest to historically correct is currently the work by Ab Hoving, reconstructing the Pinas described in Witsens book:

 

http://nautarch.tamu.edu/shiplab/AbHoving.htm

 

 

I know about this book from Witsen.  There is a lot Hoving has written about Dutch ship building.  Whenever I am in Amsterdam visiting my mother I scour the antique book stores for Dutch shipbuilding books.  As long as they are not to expensive.

Marc

Beautiful, love the lines of the Dutch boats.  I like the lights, very different.  Exceptional detailed.  I will follow this built of yours.  I need to look up this book you are using to build this model.

Marc

But it explains your fluency in Dutch

(btw School long gone)

 

Jan

Wonder if they merged with others.  I wanted to go to Boskoop but the wait time to get in was more than 2 years.  Only the best of the best go there. That is why all the well known commercial plants are bred there.  Sorry, for going off topic.

Marc

Thanks for the tutorial.  I have been using a more complicated CAD program I've had since its inception but this is much better.

Marc

Beautiful all around and I like how you did your cannons, but I especially like the Siamese, very pretty cat.

Marc

More pics of the build on http://veilinghaven.statenjacht.nl/het_schip/foto.htm (don't change the language to english, or you will loose all the interesting pictures )

 

And just to show you my pics of the actual replica:

https://picasaweb.google.com/101597346346552139735/UtrechtsStatenjacht?authuser=0&feat=directlink

 

Jan

 

I don't have to change to English as I am fluent in Dutch.

Your pics from the replica........ did you work on this boat?

Marc

To amateur, mtaylor, dgbot, and harvey1847, thank you.

Thank you for the information.  I am cutting the frames into pieces and yes, I am adding the chocks in between the frames. 

Marc

We actually cut out the futtocks and glue them together to make the frames.   There are two reasons:  1) It does save on wood.  2) It makes the frames stronger.

How does it save on wood?  On the Utrecht it is a frame cut in pieces and then glued together.  I understand if it is stronger 'if' the frame is of 2 layers, so several futtocks like the cross section of the Syren (as seen on your build).

I am planning to saw the frames as McArdle suggests.  So not exact on the line.  So rough cut.  Then when all the frames a glued together I will sand it all in shape.  Nothing is exact, just look at pictures when they build an actual replica.

Marc

This boat will be built from ready pre-cut wood as I do not have the equipment to create a plank from a large piece of wood.

I have some very knowledgeable people in my Nautical club and they have given me numerous suggestion what wood I can use for what part of the boat.

I am finishing up taping the frames to the wood.

So I do have a question:

If you build a POF, why cut the frames up into futtocks (sp) and then plank both the outside and the inside of the boat and add a deck?  Is it a sawing exercise?