Ondras71

Placed top wales made of 5x3 mm strips.. Bending it into an arc created an unsuitable shape at the stem ..
 

 
The end of the strip adjusted..

 
The result is satisfying ..
 




 
planking started..
 




 

Riders - these parts was made in the same way as the frames.

July, and the weather keeps good here, too good to be really busy. But some progress was made. I proceeded with the main mast, cap and top and also the formast. I enjoyed making the top (mars). I needed some workabouts to get the nice round sphere.

Fine tuning the size and shape.

 

 

here the hings holding the outer ring are still too bulky, I sanded them into a smaller outline by hand.

As you can se here. and the outer is glued and hold fast for drying by some tie wraps.

Coated and dry fit on the mast

The status as per today. Now the top for the foremast.

Also some experimenting with oil colour for the hull and decks. The smaller parts like masts gratings ornaments will be in 'beits' the colour as per previous picture. 

Thanks James. 
 
The gunport alignment. Looks like I was precise enough when aligning the frames so far😲

During the night I have complete left side of the bow. I do not have an experience with the POF scratch build but from the builds I see here the Construction is somehow similar (much more simple but some elements are close I think) So a good practice to move level up

I Just dry fited few pairs of the next ribs and the shape is awesome.... 

 
And of course I could not resist and have to dry put all the prepared parts together

0617 Update

... and here how it looks on the ship.
 
Drazen

Build Log. Restoration of Full Rigged Sailing Ship Model

Posting #11, 17 June 2019 – Final instalment.


 
To those kind modellers who have been following this project so far, my apologies for taking so long in bringing it all to completion.

In the months since my last posting the work was mainly inspecting, adjusting and tidying up all aspects of the rigging.  Some of these tasks:

-         setting the sails for almost running free, for wind coming fine over the starboard quarter (my preference) and this exercise spread over a couple of days. You can imagine removing each belaying pin, bracing each of the 18 square sails around plus sheeting the 9 fore and aft sails, and then belaying them all tidily as practicable. 

-         setting up the rigging associated with the ship’s boats – for stowing the two on top of the deckhouse, making gripes for the two amidships and their hoisting gear (falls). 

-         installing anchor cable securing and slipping arrangements.

-         replacing some lines (eg. braces) which had become very chafed over time.

-         repairs jibboom (bowsprit) rigging.
1.
 

The highlight of the project was her re-launch on 17 November 2018.  With the ship weighing 11 kg (24 lbs) and cradle 4.7 kg (10.4 lbs), gentle transportation for this  fragile vessel in a motor vehicle and subsequently carrying her over the sand to the sea was an issue.  My solution was the stretcher carrier shown below.  The ships original cradle sits in a tray which is slung between removable poles.  At a point just forward of the mainmast the ship was lashed down for security.  Removal of the 2 metre poles facilitates use of a people mover vehicle, in which the ship sits athwartships for travel.

Below are a few photos serve to round off the restoration’s completion.  Should any one like to see any aspect not pictured please ask and I’ll try to oblige.  I do have a very brief video of the model sailing – again, give me an email address so I can email it to you. Photos:
1.   Newly named JANE JACOBSEN (after Jules' mother's maiden name)
2.   Original figurehead
3.      View from top of Mainmast
4.    Arrangement of transportation
5.   Replication of 1899 photo - Paul - with Auckland NZ's Rangitoto Island as backdrop
6.   JANE JACOBSEN starboard tacking.











I have written the full story of this model and about the life of Julius Huffam, and how I decided to name her the Jane Jacobsen, which I will post in the appropriate place in modelshipworld if allowed.  The model has been gifted to the Motueka Museum near Nelson New Zealand.

Build Log. Restoration of Full Rigged Sailing Ship Model
Posting #9  20 June 2018
 
The very vexed question for me over the past 3 months has been how to effectively coil the loose end of belayed lines in a presentable and tidy manner.  I didn’t find any forum discussions on this particular task, although there must be quite a few modellers who have somehow met the challenge.
 Attached photos I think are self explanatory.
 
The practical constraints to work within are:
·        In limited space a man’s fingers make it a very difficult job,
·        Being a working model, in my case, all lines have to be their functional length,
·        Lines also have to be workable to enable adjustments for sail handling.
 
After many attempts I have devised a practical, albeit still a bit fiddly, device and technique. I hope the photos will help to clarify my solution.
 
The parts of the device are:
-         a U shaped length of welding rod provide two prongs (tines),
-         a cut down length of a basic biro (ball-point) pen with endcap,
-         a thin cable tie,
-         small wooden wedge to push into biro and jam the cable-tie
The tool used is a small end crochet hook.
 
Method.
1.     Feed thin end of cable-tie through the biro body to exit through the cap.
2.     Feed protruding end of cable-tie back through the cap, thus forming a loop.
3.     Place loop over one of the prongs.
4.     Coil line (rope) on the prongs.
5.     Bring cable-tie loop up and over the prong.
6.     Tighten loop on the coil, and jam tight with wedge.
7.     Remove coil from both prongs.
8.     Make a few turns of line around the coil to give it a waist.
9.     Poke a crochet hook through the one end of the coil towards the standing end of the line.
10. Hook onto the standing end of the line and pull it through the coil to form a loop.
11. Place the coil loop onto the belaying pin. JOB DONE!
 
Note: if the lines are a bit springy I find moistening them with diluted PVA glue helps to make them behave better!  (A tip I learned from a ship modelling book.)
 

Pre-assembled crane.

Manufacturing boom crane.

Thanks to all who follow my topic!  
 
Manufacturing crane for anchor.  The first step is to support the crane....

With wood work at this stage, I finished. Now I go back to the metal.
 
Roller open chock.

Thank you all for your kind feedback on my work.   

**A new home**
 
To all my friends, thank you for all the positive replies and feedback. I'm truly honoured and touched by your warm and loveing words. 
 
This weekend the ship was send to her latest location and placed in the living room at my parents place. They love it!!!
I made two people very happy. 
 

 

 

 
Peter

***The last chapter - Set sail - Finished***
 
Goodmorning my friends!!
 
The photoshoot of the completed model....here we go!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 - The End -
 
When I started with the build of this model, I had a specific goal in mind. I needed to finish this model within 8 months, it must be within budget (150USD) and I must enjoy the creative proces. I did all that so my mission is a succes!
During this build I've learned many things and I've enjoyed the building process very much, but I'm truly blessed with all the friends whom I met during this build. In particular I want to thank you guys, for all the nice comments, replies, questions and likes.  You made me feel special!
I really hope you guys and also girls liked my log and maybe helped you in a way for your own model! Sharing knowledge is what is all about I guess!
 
For my next project, you have to wait a few months. But stay tuned and we will meet again! 
 
Untill now, Bon Voyage Christopher Columbus!
 

 
See ya later!
Peter

Have a nice building !!! Ondras
 

A Dutch 17th century pleasure vessel
Pleasure vessels’ penpainting by Willem van de Velde. 
 
Sailing with no other purpose than pleasure is probably of all ages. But it is a remarkable fact that the Dutch were the first people to design ship types especially for that single activity. Early in the 17th century in certain circles wealth grew so high that pleasure yachts appeared on the Dutch waters. Vessels especially designed for fun! The Amsterdam lord mayor Nicolaes Witsen presents a drawing in his book Aeloude en Hedendaegse Scheepsbouw en Bestier (Old and Modern Shipbuilding and Managing) from 1671, together with a simple specification contract.

Witsen’s text

Witsen’s drawing
 
Over thirty years ago I was very interested in methods of shipbuilding and reading the old literature it gave me the conviction that the data in the contract for this relatively simple vessel were enough to do an experiment. There are no frames on Witsen’s drawing, but my theory was, that for building a ship shell-first, which was the method used in Holland at that time, a body plan was not necessary. In that system the builder starts with the hull planking before adding frame parts.
I was quite confident that I could do that trick in model-scale and I wanted to record what I did to compare the results with another building method, partly frame-first, which was described by a second contemporary Dutch author, Cornelis van Yk in his book De Nederlandsche Scheepsbouwkonst Open Gestelt (Dutch Shipbuilding Unveiled) from 1697. Here the builder starts with some frames before planking. Nobody ever noticed that both writers described different methods of how to build a ship. For historians the texts are too technical, for professional shipbuilders they are too historical and no longer interesting within nowadays construction systems. I wanted not only to test both methods, I also wanted to show the difference for scientific purposes.

Shell-first building method. Planking before frames.
 

Another stage in shell-first building
 

Frame-first building. Frames before planking. 
 

Splines help the builder to find the shape of the futtocks
 
It took me several efforts to produce a model that could reasonably withstand the comparison with the few sources I had. Due to the fact that my camera repeatedly let me down I even had to go through the process three times, which taught me a precious lesson: building shell-first without plans, needs experience. The third time I built my model I did it in far less time and the shape of the model improved a lot.
I ended up with giving a presentation about the two ways of construction at the International Symposium for Ship and Boat Archaeology in Amsterdam in 1988 and the immediate result was that I was offered a job in the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam as head of the Restoration Department of Dutch History.
This little pleasure vessel had changed my life forever.

 
The finished model, built in 1988.
 
Looking back at the impact of this model on my life I am surprized that I never cared to make a lines plan of this little yacht. As I am planning to give it a new try, this time in paper, I can finally correct this deficiency. Of course Rene Hendrickx, my faithful Belgian help in 3D constructions did me the favour of helping me out with his magical command of the free shipbuilding program Delftship.
It all started with a free hand sketch, which I based on the specifications in Witsen’s book.

 
 
Freehand sketch based on the specifications in Witsen’s book.
 
Soon enough it became clear that working drawings of this vessel might bring a lot of pleasure to many ship model builders. Therefore we executed every part of the vessel in 3D, making it possible to make any kind of model, be it static, big, small, or even (with some improvisation by the builder) as a working radio-controlled variant. The rig is extremely easy to handle, with only sheets to control the sails and halliards for the leeboards, so it won’t cause any technical problem. But building radio-controlled vessels is not my trade. I am happy when I come off with a good-looking paper craft nowadays. Anyone interested in the draughts in pdf. or in dxf. can send me a PM and I will send the plans over for free as soon as they are ready.
 
The scale I use for all my models is 1/77. For a 42-feet long vessel (11.89 m) that gives an overall length of 15,5 cm., which is a bit small for me and I chose a 1/44 scale for this project. These scales might look odd for anyone who does not know that the Amsterdam feet (28,3 cm) consisted of 11 inches (2,6 cm), so a 1/44 scale means that every inch at the model stands for 4 feet in real life, which gives a total length of 27 cm for the model.
The old well known system of building (see my previous threads) has to be adapted in this case, because the deck in the middle of the vessel is extremely low, leaving a big part of the hull without sufficient support during building. So we have to think a bit more in advance and prepare both the longitudinal spine and some of the frames.
 

Elevation view in Delftship, drawn by Rene Hendrickx
 

Bodyplan in Delftship, drawn by Rene Hendrickx
 
I did not make too many pictures. Partly because I forgot, partly because I have become a bit shy presenting the various stages of my efforts. Too many people show their progress here with unfinished models that look like a million bucks. Mine always look sloppy, with fluffy edges, stains and overlapping parts. I know that in the end they mostly show up quite well, but during construction I have the impression that the main reason why I go over to a next stage in building is to hide the mistakes I made in the previous ones. But anyone who is interested in my methods can find them in my tutorial about building with card in: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19467-fish-hooker-after-chapman-by-ab-hoving-finished-how-to-scratch-build-from-paper-card/ and threads like http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/ships-watercraft/35441-17th-century-dutch-fluit.html, http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/ships-watercraft/36353-another-17th-century-dutch-workhorse.htmland more on the Papermodelers forum.
I have built in wood for most of my life and now I am getting old I go for the easy stuff, building in card. Once the hull has its shape I cover the outside with self-adhesive plastic foil. If a hair-dryer is used the strips can be bent in every possible shape. The rest is painting. 
I’ll keep you informed about my progress.
 


First stage in building in card. The parts outside the compartments have been doubled. 
 

Ready to be covered with plastic strips
 

 

The hull below the upper wale is covered and painted for the first time.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Unpainted left side planks finished. The window has not been stuck yet..
 





 

Have a nice building !!! Ondras
 

Have a nice building !!! Ondras
 

Unpainted left side planks finished. The window has not been stuck yet..
 





 

Unpainted left side planks finished. The window has not been stuck yet..
 





 

Unpainted left side planks finished. The window has not been stuck yet..