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Richvee

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Everything posted by Richvee

  1. Richvee
    Thanks Steve. John- Honored to have you watch. And thank YOU for your KC log. I might still be trying to figure out a way to build a tryworks if it wasn't for your log.
  2. Richvee
    I don't have a lot of time over the summer for modeling, but I managed to make the masts this past summer. Decided at this point to start the standing rigging of the foremast and bowsprit. (in an attempt to put off carving the whaleboats even longer ) Added the davit and bearing post on the port side for the waist boat. This davit goes on the outside of the hull. details are sketchy so it was a a best guess as to how to portray it. Which brings me up to date on this build. I guess uit's time to dive into the whaleboats. I don't want to add the iron davits other than the one above until I have the whaleboats done at least to the point where I know the davits will line up over the hoisting eyes on the whaleboats. These whaleboats are the old machine carved that came with the original kit way back when. There's a lot of sanding, filing, and chiseling to do to get the walls to 1/32". The process has begun. I guess I can always take a break and start stepping the main mast.
  3. Richvee
    After the tryworks I moved to the bowsprit, and a few details on the deck, deadeyes and chainplates, windlass details and anchor chain
  4. Richvee
    Hi Kurt. I actually found a bottle of the floquil rail green that is still good. I don't think I'm I want to repaint the deck furniture with the slightly darker green. I'm going to leave it as is. I will use the Floquil for the little bit a green on the bottom of the masts up to rail level on the fore mast, and up to and including the boom jaw rest on the main mast. I'm also thinking about painting the bowsprit inside the bulwarks with the darker green to match the bulwarks. I might be better off at this point to just leave it though.
  5. Richvee
    While doing research on tryworks and trying to figure out how I was going to make this, I ran across this site, namely, jablackwell's Kate Cory build log. His log, along with Thomas Lauria's great site, and texxn's C.W. Morgan added a wealth of information for me. it was after discovering all these places on line that I truly realized how much I had to learn, and how much better I needed to get. So the tryworks were built. I used the metal pots that I still had from the original kit. The brick was a thin plastic sheet of model railroad "S" scale brick wall, that I painted. The rest is wood sheet and strip wood I had from various kits, and steel wire for the slide rod for the oven doors.
  6. Richvee
    A little background before I start this log. I played around with models of all kinds when I was young, but this was my first effort at a "quality" model as a result. (The term "quality" is up for debate )I am in the middle of this build. I started it back in the late 80's. The hull was shaped, sanded and topsides painted. Plankshseer, rails and decking added and painted.....And there it sat as life went on. Bought a house, raised 2 kids, and late summer of '17 I dusted it off, and started adding rivets to the strip copper for the hull. Little did I know these strips should have been cut into plates. I simply simulated the plates by using the ponce wheel to run vertical rivets every 15mm. After the copper, I started on the deck work. Hatches and companionways, wheel, skylight, galley. Next up was the tryworks.
  7. Richvee
    The Morgan may not be the best for checking ratline color. The Morgan had "ratboards" or battens made of wood. An interesting peculiarity of the Morgan.
  8. Richvee
    Merry Christmas and Happy new year, Ed. Found this log about 4 months ago and I've been following since. You work is amazing. Plus your knack for explaining processes is second to none. I'm extremely grateful you take the time to explain and write this log. I'm relatively new to the hobby and I've learned more here in this log than I ever dreamed possible. Not to mention the inspiration. You have set the gold standard. Thanks!! Rich
  9. Richvee
    Hi John, Enjoyed your Kate Cory log. It's been a great aid as proceed ever so slowly on my KC. Like you, my next build will probably be my first dive into planking. I'll be following along. I'm sure your scratch work will be outstanding. Your tryworks and other deck furniture on the KC were an inspiration for me to get back to building mine after a very long layoff. Rich
  10. Richvee
    Would this fly tying thread work well for ratlines? If so, can anyone suggest a size for 1:64 scale ratlines?
  11. Richvee
    I was browsing the tool shop on the model motor cars site last week, (link on the forum home page) and ended up placing an order for a bunch of tools, clamps, etc. (great prices and real quick shipping, by the way). I picked up a package of these with my order. https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/the-tool-shop/products/sanding-twigs-t083 They have already come in handy for me finishing off a mast cap. They'll get plenty of use in the near future as I start work on the whaleboats for the Kate Cory.
  12. Richvee
    I haven't built the MS New Bedford whale boat, but I am in the middle of the Kate Cory, a whaling brig. In my research of the whaleboats for my build, I purchased the 150 page instruction booklet for the MS whale boat. From reading that, I guarantee you will not be disappointed with the MS kit.
  13. Richvee
    I've recently got back into this hobby and just ordered some rigging from Chuck's Syren Ship Model Company. The quality of the line looks great. My current build is 3/16 scale, and I purchased line of .035, .025, .018, .012 and .008inches. I figured that would approximate any size line from 7 1/2"c to less than 2"c.
  14. Richvee
    Here's another little fact that may help someone out in a pinch. If you use the foster grant readers, or regular Rx reading glasses and you're still having a little trouble focusing on the close,small detail, slide the glasses down your nose a little...That essentially adds more magnification.(This will not work well with mutlifocals. Readers only)
  15. Richvee
    I find the flex shaft invaluable for better control with the Dremel. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Dremel-225-01-Flex-Shaft/1194220
  16. Richvee
    As an optician,I have a little info for you guys to keep in mind. The foster grant readers with different diopter values will work well for some. Obviously, the higher the diopter power the closer the focal length, more magnification, and better for closer work. As you decrease the diopter value, the farther away from your eye the objects will be clear. The progressive,variable lens is the way to go if you can get used to them. It may take take some work, but remember, your eye is a group of muscles, so muscle memory needs to develop for you eyes to use the progressive lens effectively. Maybe the most important thing to remember is, get a good eye exam. And MAKE SURE you explain to the doctor what you want your lenses to do. Tell the Dr you model and need to see very little items at very close distances. This makes all the difference, as the average exam will refract you for clear vision at far distances for driving, watching TV, etc, and an "addition" for reading vision at a distance of around 18". These "additions" are what is marked on those foster grants as +1.00, +2.50,etc. For our modeling needs, we need to see clear at a closer distance than the average 18" used for your reading needs, and that requires a different Rx (Higher addition) . Your doctor might prescribe for you one Rx for hobby use, and another for everyday use. The key is telling him what you want to use the glasses for.
  17. Richvee
    I'm currently building the Kate Cory, and "studying" jablackwell's wonderful build log of his Kate Cory. Among many of the great tips I've found in his log, is this jig for rigging shrouds and holding deadeyes. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6842-kate-cory-by-jablackwell-finished-model-shipways-scale-164/page-7?hl=%20kate%20%20cory

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