Richvee

Thanks for looking in Pat. Do you have a build log for your POBII? I'd love to see your progress.
 
I wouldn't count on me passing you. I'm a slow worker, and just learning as well. There will be periods when nothing gets done for weeks on end, especially in the spring and summer. Besides yard work, I umpire baseball, so there's times in the boatyard is severely diminished. Which is OK with me. I need the distractions from time to time.   ..
I just noticed it's post #1 from you. Welcome. Take a little time and write a little something in the New members forum. Nice to have you with us. There's a wealth of info here! 
 
 

Hope you can join us tonight, Michael. The zoom meetings have been going very well. I also have a little modeling background in HO trains. I'm currently in ongoing negotiations with the Mrs to obtain use of the spare bedroom for trains. Negotiations are not progressing well. 🥺

Thanks Rich.  I negotiated and obtained trackage rights for a layout that's 18" wide and about 15 feet long.  It's a point to point line, but it keeps me modeling buildings and landscapes and running the occasional lash up.  "See" you tonight.

Hope you can join us tonight, Michael. The zoom meetings have been going very well. I also have a little modeling background in HO trains. I'm currently in ongoing negotiations with the Mrs to obtain use of the spare bedroom for trains. Negotiations are not progressing well. 🥺

Hope you can join us tonight, Michael. The zoom meetings have been going very well. I also have a little modeling background in HO trains. I'm currently in ongoing negotiations with the Mrs to obtain use of the spare bedroom for trains. Negotiations are not progressing well. 🥺

Welcome Michael,   I just sent you a link to tonight’s Ship Model Society of New Jersey January meeting.   I hope you can attend.   I also built the Eastport Pinky known as the Yankee Hero.    It was a great kit and I enjoyed the build very much.   I look forward to your build log and also hope you will consider joining our club.     
 
Bill
SMSNJ
 

Hello fellow modelers!  I am Mike and I live in New Jersey.  My first hobby is HO trains.  I also own and sail a 25' Cape Dory.  On a trip to Searsport, Maine, I stopped at BlueJacket Ship Crafters and I was hooked.  I purchased and built the Maine lobster boat "Red Baron."  I am now on my second kit, the 1889 Quoddy Boat "Yankee Hero."  I've already learned much from the posts on this site and hope I live up to the craftsmanship on display here.

Thanks for looking in everyone. I'll be sure to check out some other options when the time comes for the ship's boat. Appreciate the pics and link.
 
Right now, I have a novice question I could use some help with. I've cut out and dry fitted the bulkheads. They all slid into their slots nice and snug with very little sanding. All are seated completely in their notches, and all line up nice and level at the deck and all my reference lines. However, bulkheads D,E and F fall below the bearding line. (Same port and starboard)  
 

 
 

 
As you can see, my reference lines line up, as do the tops of the bulkheads at the deck
 

 
 
 
Is this just a matter of fairing the bottom of these 3 bulkheads to fall in line with the bearding line, or do I have some deeper issues.. Like I cut the rabbet too wide? And if that's the case, is there a remedy? 

I've decided on the POB2 as my next build. I'll save the rigging of the Medway Longboat for that inevitable time when I get a little tired of this ship. 
 
I've chose this model for a few reasons. 
Lots of interesting deck work
Lots of available resources
Love the lines of this ship, and really like the way it looks under sail. That's the plan going in...To make this my first attempt at sails. 
..And last but not least, while I was contemplating what to make next, the POB2 showed up in a MS email for 50% off. 🤑
 
I've been looking at the first chapter of Robert Hunt's practicum that is available on line, and I'm torn about ordering the package. It's a bit pricey, IMO, and there's a wealth of free info here in the MSW forums. That said, I really like the idea of step by step instruction, since I'm still quite the novice. Reading through the instruction manual that comes with the kit, I can pretty much say they're almost useless. The plans, on the other hand, look good and very detailed. 
 
I've got plenty to do before I would need chapter two of the practicum, since I tend to move at a snail's pace with this hobby. And I'm sure this build won't go any faster. 
The kit arrived and the parts all seem to be in order. The dowels for the masts resemble the letter "U" and will certainly not be used. Maybe I'll try rounding off square stock, or at least get some kind of hardwood dowels that are better than the horrible pine dowels supplied.  Rigging and blocks will have to upgraded as well, as I've already been spoiled after using Siren line and blocks on the Kate Cory. I'll decide as I go how many of the cast metal fittings will be used. Either because they are out of scale, or because I'm going to leave some of the modern touches off this model, such as propellers, or just because they're just plain horrible. 
 
Anyway, the project has begun. Bearding line drawn in using a template that I cut from cardstock, followed by cutting a rabbet.
 

 
 Stern, keel, and bow glued into position and drying. 
 

 
reference lines have been drawn on the center keel,
 

 
Next up will be cutting out, marking up, and fitting the bulkheads. 
 
 
 
 

A little update. I will proceed with the plan of sanding the bottoms of the offending bulkheads to match the bearding line and run smoothly into the rabbet.
 
The bulkheads have been installed, taking care to square each one up with the keel. I did one at a time, clamped it up, let dry before moving to the next. 
 

 
Added the stern filler blocks. Hopefully I've come close enough on the shape of this thing to make it work. In this photo the port side of the filler block hasn't been faired at all, the starboard has been. Obviously more fairing is needed, but I think it'll be OK. . 
 
 
 
I couldn't flip this next pic no matter what I tried. If you turn your head sideways you can see the bulkheads look to line up pretty evenly. ↩️

 
I'm happy that I was able to run a steel rule down the center keel and it looks nice and straight.
 

 
I picked up a 2 foot length of 1" x1" balsa today. I think I'm going to add filler blocks between the bow and BH "A", and near the stern, between K and L. Hopefully it will help me not only visualize the curves a little better while fairing, it will give me a little more surface for securing the planks in the most difficult sections of the hull. 
 
Lots of sanding ahead. Until next time...... 

Thanks. I just checked . They match up with the plans very well. All which leads me to believe my bearding line may be a tad high through this section.  As mentioned above by Brian, I have tested a plank between the keel and the bulkhead, and I believe after fairing the bulkheads, that lowest plank will sit rather nicely between the bottom of the bulkhead and the top of the keel with a little edge beveling.  I think I may be OK. I'm going to move ahead and start gluing the bulkheads in place. With the tops flush with the deck. 
 
Thanks everyone for the help. 

I have cut and dry fitted the bulkheads for my pride of Baltimore 2 MS kit. They all fit nice and snug with minimal sanding. They will all sit flush to the top of the center keel once the char is removed, and all the reference lines line up nice. That said, I have 3 bulkheads, D, E and F that end well below the bearding line. 
 

 

 
Is  sanding and fairing the bottom of these three bulkheads more than the rest of them what should be done? Or should I shim the center keel slot, raising the bottom of the bulkhead to align more with the bearding line, and then trim the top of the bulkhead level with the keel center?  
 

Rich
I have seen many builds on the forum that have used the balsa filler technique but haven’t had a chance to try it out.  There was one on an Endeavour 1:35 project that used balsa fillers between every BH, over entire 4 ft length.  I agree that this will make the fairing and planking much easier in these areas.  
David

A little update. I will proceed with the plan of sanding the bottoms of the offending bulkheads to match the bearding line and run smoothly into the rabbet.
 
The bulkheads have been installed, taking care to square each one up with the keel. I did one at a time, clamped it up, let dry before moving to the next. 
 

 
Added the stern filler blocks. Hopefully I've come close enough on the shape of this thing to make it work. In this photo the port side of the filler block hasn't been faired at all, the starboard has been. Obviously more fairing is needed, but I think it'll be OK. . 
 
 
 
I couldn't flip this next pic no matter what I tried. If you turn your head sideways you can see the bulkheads look to line up pretty evenly. ↩️

 
I'm happy that I was able to run a steel rule down the center keel and it looks nice and straight.
 

 
I picked up a 2 foot length of 1" x1" balsa today. I think I'm going to add filler blocks between the bow and BH "A", and near the stern, between K and L. Hopefully it will help me not only visualize the curves a little better while fairing, it will give me a little more surface for securing the planks in the most difficult sections of the hull. 
 
Lots of sanding ahead. Until next time...... 

A little update. I will proceed with the plan of sanding the bottoms of the offending bulkheads to match the bearding line and run smoothly into the rabbet.
 
The bulkheads have been installed, taking care to square each one up with the keel. I did one at a time, clamped it up, let dry before moving to the next. 
 

 
Added the stern filler blocks. Hopefully I've come close enough on the shape of this thing to make it work. In this photo the port side of the filler block hasn't been faired at all, the starboard has been. Obviously more fairing is needed, but I think it'll be OK. . 
 
 
 
I couldn't flip this next pic no matter what I tried. If you turn your head sideways you can see the bulkheads look to line up pretty evenly. ↩️

 
I'm happy that I was able to run a steel rule down the center keel and it looks nice and straight.
 

 
I picked up a 2 foot length of 1" x1" balsa today. I think I'm going to add filler blocks between the bow and BH "A", and near the stern, between K and L. Hopefully it will help me not only visualize the curves a little better while fairing, it will give me a little more surface for securing the planks in the most difficult sections of the hull. 
 
Lots of sanding ahead. Until next time...... 

I have seen a finished example of this kit up close and in person, and it can truly be built into an impressive model. The only thing that bothers me about the kit is the included ship's boat, which I believe is an off-the-shelf item from MS. The real PoB's ship's boat is a thing of beauty, and I think it would be worthwhile to scout around for replacement of the kit item.
 
Good luck!

Thanks. I just checked . They match up with the plans very well. All which leads me to believe my bearding line may be a tad high through this section.  As mentioned above by Brian, I have tested a plank between the keel and the bulkhead, and I believe after fairing the bulkheads, that lowest plank will sit rather nicely between the bottom of the bulkhead and the top of the keel with a little edge beveling.  I think I may be OK. I'm going to move ahead and start gluing the bulkheads in place. With the tops flush with the deck. 
 
Thanks everyone for the help. 

Either way will work, but shimming them up will preserve the bottom of the bulkhead shape and probably make fairing easier as fairing the top of the bulkheads for the deck is pretty straightforward and simple compared to fairing the bulkheads for planking.
 
You can also test fit the planking where the gap is between the bottom of the bulkheads and the top of the keel.  If they fit nicely then no shimming or adjustment is needed, just fairing before you plank.

Rich
Very interested to hear what the others following have to say.  I would be very hesitant about the shim/sand solution because it would also change the line up of the reference lines.  I think that if you could adjust just the curvature of the bottom edge (sanding or carving) so that it flows smoothly into the already cut rabbet it should be fine. 
 
David

I have cut and dry fitted the bulkheads for my pride of Baltimore 2 MS kit. They all fit nice and snug with minimal sanding. They will all sit flush to the top of the center keel once the char is removed, and all the reference lines line up nice. That said, I have 3 bulkheads, D, E and F that end well below the bearding line. 
 

 

 
Is  sanding and fairing the bottom of these three bulkheads more than the rest of them what should be done? Or should I shim the center keel slot, raising the bottom of the bulkhead to align more with the bearding line, and then trim the top of the bulkhead level with the keel center?  
 

I would sand away the bottoms of these three bulkheads to the indicated by you, black line. Make sure though, that the distance between the arrows is the same as the thickness of your planks, so they fit snugly there, between the keel and the edges of all bulkheads.

Rich
While not an expert I think that when you fair the bulkheads some the overlap will resolve but if it remains a problem then the bulkheads will need to be shortened and faired so that the rabbit line is exposed.
 
As for the ships boat I have attached some pictures of the version in the kit I built.  It is the MS version with a 1994 date on the plans.  Looks pretty close to the other picture.
 
David

Finished
 
It's been some time since the last update.  I have had a very busy summer with storms and then doctor visits.  Below are the final photos showing the oars, boat hook and the base.
 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 
Thanks for Looking in,
 
BobW

Part 17
 
I've pretty much finished with the rigging.  Here are a few shots of my progress.  Next up,  the base board.
 
The flag.  I decided to make a 'Admiral of the White' Flag just to have a different look.  I made it a little long on the heel side to wrap around the toggle line I made.  This starboard side is not a good view,  but the toggle can be seen on the vacant halyard.
 

 
This shot shows the toggles.

 
Shrouds, Deadeyes, and Lanyards.

 
Stern view.  The figure is from a 1:20.3 scale railroad maker,  I know he is a little oversized.  Looks good anyway.

 
His head seems to be looking where it should.

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
More to Come
 
BobW

You could also try scratch building the boat based on one of Master Korabel's kits to be of the right scale. Check out Gahm's Syren's log for this. I also followed suit (the process can also be found on my log) and it was a lot of fun to build.