Mike_In_RI

Hi, It's a little while back, but one reference is from Page 120 of the Erik Ronnberg book. If you squint just the right amount you can count the spiral turns in the large tub and calculate an initial thickness. Then, after making up the line as close as I could to that, it fit within a few turns +/-). The color and shade I settled on most likely came from photos of at the New England Whaling Museum or Mystic Seaport. A really enjoyable reference.... Check the You Tube movie (1922) "Down to the Sea in Ships" around 57 min, 18 sec. You can see the line is soft, right twisted and a very light shade. Good Luck, Mike

The article ... SOME THOUGHTS ON THE RIGGING OF COLONIAL SCHOONERS by McCalip (NRG 32:30-36) is the best single reference I have found. Next to that, William Avery Baker has some thoughts in "Seafaring in Colonial Massachusetts" (online, I think) regarding the Ashley Bowen painting of the BALTICK. Randy's Hannah (45t) is much closer in size to the MS Sultana (53t) and therefore has better scalability for me than the Hahn Hannah (78t). Also, the spar sizes for the Sultana have really good sourcing. It looks like the newest MS Sultana plans include the Harold Puls update of the mast/spar information from the Public Records Office, London. I haven't started rigging yet but I've finally got my head around the nomenclature of the lines. 'Still weak on the contemporary use/position the running rigging so more homework for me. Thank you for checking in, Mike

I forget the next steps but the thwart risers will add a lot more stiffness to the hull. And, of course, the thwarts themselves. If you need a spreader, I'd just temporarily glue it in place in a spot that will not show when finished. Maybe just below the height of the ceiling plank.

Hi Larry..... nice photo of the frames. The planks and frames look great! I remember how strong the model felt at this point. As mentioned, double check if the waist is any wider/narrower vs. the plans. Once the thwart risers go in, there will be little chance to adjust it. Keep it up.. Mike

Thank you all for the likes and comments. I appreciate your input. The break pumps are almost finished. At just the right viewing angle down the companionway, the mid-trunks can be seen. The TFFM is a great source for the break pump detail. Thank you again, Mike

Another way overdue update... no really believable excuses. I continue to enjoy working on this Hannah (designed by Randy Biddle, below) and am putting time in on the scale details as much as I can, either researching them them or sensibly imagining them for the period. The next several shots show the deck furniture where boxwood is used for all the pieces needing fine detail and AYC used for thicker pieces. The binnacle is stick built with one center lamp between two compasses and the lamp and stack are soldered brass. The companionway is also stick built with doors opening inwards to allow closer placement of the binnacle. I want to allow the most open view of the main cabin as possible so the quarterdeck has a very minimal amount of decking... Just enough to support the binnacle, companionway and some rigging eyebolts. Barely visible faux treenails are made by mixing a drop of acrylic paint with thinned wood filler and dabbing that into scale sized holes. I found that too dark or too light filler made the treenails visible from too far away. The compasses are simply two thin brass rings with a barely visible rose. Here is an interesting patent from 1755 on Hathi Trust describing a windlass using a central steel spindle. #62 pg 22. I felt more comfortable making the octagon shape from individual parts than carving them from a "log". Similar to the stick built barrels I made for the whaleboat project, each plank is tapered and then the edges are chiseled to 45 degrees. The pawl shown is not the final version .. it has fewer detents. The steam vent is built following the TFFM where only the grating ledges are notched. A Proxxon MF70 was used to make the notches. The stack is .005" blackened copper. The ledges were bent and assembled over a cut out piece of PVC. The scuffed up look on the deck are small sanded pieces of 1/64" ply that I'm using to round up the deck in those areas before planking. This is how she sits today. The furniture, hatches, masts and bowsprit are just dry fit in place for now. The pump parts are made up following the TFFM and are yet to be assembled. I'm looking forward to finishing the remaining deck pieces then it's a toss up of installing the planking or railing. (???) Thank you for looking in on my Hannah project and please pass along any critiques or comments. They are always appreciated. Mike Randy Biddle's plans for this Hannah are available at NRG online > Journal >> Extended Journal Content > Articles Colonel John Glover’s Marblehead Schooner Hannah (1765 - 1775): Fishing for the Truth

Here I am in the basement where it is nice and cool, avoiding the high temperature and dew point outside. 'Just a short update. Today's shots show the Randy Biddle Hannah with the cabin completed sans a rocking chair which I though might make the area look too busy. I had a lot of fun making the cabin but it sure took a while to get it done. The quarterdeck beams are now fixed in place along with the connecting timbers. A rudder trunk rises from the inside counter to the aft-most beam and a sectioned shelf runs along the top of the storage wall... the idea coming from the Charles Morgan. The smaller 2 sections will hold lanterns. The margin planks are also finished with the trickiest being the aft most plank with the 3D curves involved. So, now on to the main parts of the deck area. Thank-you for looking in and keep cool! Mike

Hi Larry, I just now found your build site. The whaleboat is coming along nicely. Regarding all the frames: Probably you know this already but just double check that a frame is not in the way of some other piece for future placement. I remember I had to belatedly shift a few frames one way or the other to avoid the centerboard case or a thwart(??). One other planning issue: The temporary plank holding in the stem & stern pieces keep the width of the hull correct until the frames go in. Once that is out, the hull may or may not narrow. Mine narrowed about 1/8" which does not seem like much but the large line tub is a tight fit so I had to make it slightly undersized so it looked OK (not slanted). Keep up the good work. Mike

Thanks you all for the likes. I appreciate them. Lou, "time" ... yes, that's the question. Spring has sprung and our neighborhood is sorely lacking teenagers looking for yard work! Mike

Time for an (overdue) update. The cabin area needs to be finished in order to follow through with the quarterdeck margin planks. I decided to change out the original dark cherry floor boards and replace them with thinner, white-washed boxwood. For the aft ceiling planks, very thin basswood was used to get enough twist. The lower part of the aft storage wall incorporates a step/seat with drawers. The dark areas on each side are frames that protrude in into the cabin area. The wall has lots drawers for maps, etc. and a drop down table. The horizontal area between the inner counter boards and the storage will have a shelf for lamps and other odds & ends. A barn door look seemed appropriate for the cabin access to the hull spaces. 1/32" x 3/64" box was edge glued with CA and the trim boards were built up to allow for the diagonal brace. The bunk beds are made up of scrap basswood. I stuck with the barn door look for the cut-away privacy walls. There is a small storage shelf just forward of the inner counter planks. At this point, the quarterdeck beams are only temporarily placed. I decided not to add much more to the cabin. It's width is only 3" and I fear it would look overcrowded. OK, maybe a chair :). So, on to the ladder, quarterdeck beams and margin planks. Thank you for checking in and I appreciate any comments. Mike

Beautiful job Ken and something to be very proud of. You have gone the extra mile on all parts of the ship. I see you're showing the port sweeps in this shot. I like that... will you display it the same way? Well done, Mike

The sternboard and fashion pieces are finished. As usual, the forum is great for finding different approaches to a build. In this case, I emulated a neat way to make the jambs/sill pieces stay square while placing them in the ship structure. I have to apologize in that I lost the link to that site. The port casing is built around a wooden shaft to the correct size, rough sanded to the angle of the stanchions then aligned and inserted into the frame. It protrudes enough to allow for the thickness of three layers of sternboard. The first layer of planking is 1/32" boxwood and will be seen from the quarterdeck. The port planks below the lower curved molding have 3 layers. The middle layer of the sternboard is sanded flush with the jambs. The top layer cases around the port. The plans call for three curved moldings. The jambs .... much smaller than a dime...look off center but are OK with a straight on view. It's nice to see the ships lines come together with the fashion pieces, ports and molding. She's shaping up nicely... another complement to Randy. Thank you again for the likes and comments. Mike

The anchor looks great... I like the contrast of the iron vs the stock. Well done.

Thank you Randy for the tips. I'll check. Much appreciated. Mike

The sails furled with the sweeps out is a very attractive, unique look. Those are great shots. Super job on your home made line as well. Mike