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rwiederrich

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Everything posted by rwiederrich

  1. Pat the technique works on any thing you want to weather. You can substitute brown Ink for the black if you like. Here are some images of the Revell Cutty Sark I converted into the Portuguese Ferriera. This is modeled when she was at her lowest, rotting in some backwater. before she was purchased and rebuilt to her original glory. I applied the alcohol technique to everything and then applied cerium oxide(which is an extremely fine(5 micron) powder to dust and add further ageing. Rob
  2. I think we are digressing from the OP's original question. How do you age a deck to look.....weathered? Personally I use extremely diluted India ink in 90~100% Isopropyl alcohol sprayed on from a spray bottle. The ink is spread along the cracks and creases using capillary action and then the alcohol evaporates and leaves a nice *Weathered* surface. The extent of the Weathering depends on your ink dilution and your application. Rob
  3. In my experience..it is like taking a piece of greyed pine(weathered) and then plane it down to raw wood...it becomes much lighter..hence the *whiteness* mentioned and referenced. Fresh planed wood cannot be made any whiter then it is already is...not unless you bleach it with chemicals. Even as you mentioned..tar stains and the like that came from dirty feet that have been climbing tarred ratlines and similar fixtures needed to be removed from the deck...I'm sure holystoning made the deck lighter. Buffing a high traffic area (In a tiled public building) with a buffer today is probably the modern equivalent. Rob
  4. I feel weathering is dependent on the theme or state of the model/vessel you are modeling. Even in brand new vessels a certain amount of weathering is expected if not avoidable. Sun, salt water is caustic to wood and metal and to eliminate the effects entirely is, IMV not representing the vessel accurately.
  5. Or *Sheer v. sheer*...that one always trips me up. Heehee. Ed...Your work is a model for all who are serious about improving their own skill. Happy new year! Rob
  6. It depends on the era of ship you are building. Copper oxidizes whitish green..Muntz metal turns a metallic/brown when oxidized. Rob
  7. I originally left it shinny copper..it looked awful. Painting/sealing it with metallic paint created the desired oxidized muntz metal look. Rob
  8. I used a roller with wire mesh and a strip of sanding matrix...all compressed in the roller and out comes the finished plates. For my scale it worked.
  9. Goat Locker shipyard? I built a rolling gig that I simply rolled foil sections with imprinting material to form the individual plates in 6 inch sections. I then painted the finished copper with metallic paint to seal them and to age them to look like oxidized Muntz Metal. Rob
  10. Good job Jim. Plating is a tedious job and your work paid off...looks great. Copper tarnished with a green/white film...were Muntz metal that was used on my clipper ships turned more of a metallic brownish color. Supper job! Rob
  11. Excellent....but you will be modeling her with her original single topsail yards as you originally claimed? Rob
  12. Ed..it occurred to me..will you be treating the yards as you have with every other portion of this build and leave some incomplete to demonstrate the symmetry of the build, or will all the yards receive the detail you are placing on the main yards? Rob
  13. I too find it strange....and a bit frustrating. On one hand you have the data(or lack of it) and on the other hand you have logical application. The problem arises when your logical...reasonable application does not concur with what the limited known record shows. Some of the stunsail spars on some McKay ships rest on top of the main yard suspended above the jackstays with points of leverage at the yard ends, much like your example...but without the interior iron. I don't know.....without sails being bent, the detail is astonishing, and since none of us are true experienced experts in the actual rig of these vessels...your application might be the best and will have to fall within the parameters of every other *creative license* move we make...to try and replicate these magnificent ships. I don't recall off hand, but was the YA's cabins actually painted white....or *Pearl* or *Buff*? Your YA is stunning to say the least...any number of us would have done things differently on many points...but you have done it superbly. Rob
  14. Great job Ed...love it all. It appears the fife rail is pulling from the deck on that last image? Rob
  15. Fantastic job Ed... really marvelous work. I have to make these little monsters in 1/128th for my Great Republic...I might go a different route..just too small. Rob
  16. Quite impressive Ed....very impressive indeed. Rob
  17. Ed...I have neglected my own Glory of the Seas and Great Republic builds in lieu of some major home remodeling, but watching you work so methodically and accurately on the YA encourages me to no end and in some small way gives me the endorphin high I get from engaging my own builds. Awesome and amazing work on the YA. Just beautiful. Rob(Thanks)
  18. Fantastic work Ed. I'm sure those line issues were evident on the real vessel...I can't imagine they were not. Rob
  19. This model of a mast rig stepping a mast helps the mind grapple with the sheer will perpetuated by these men who did great construction feats with what they had, and they did wonders.... IMHV Though not an exact replica of what happened this demonstrates the idea Rob
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