Jump to content

rwiederrich

NRG Member
  • Posts

    5,089
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by rwiederrich

  1. Yeah..this tape is so sticky and I put the roll on the lathe and cut a nice even strip...so all the bands would be exactly alike. It paints well too...no one would know unless I told you. Which I did. Rob(thanks)
  2. Then finished up with white paint. I have to finish the (McKay mast...as it was dubbed at the time) next...it will be varnished not painted.. I still have to fashion the mast boots to finish off the deck and then add the fife rails. this all has to happen before I afix the tops to the masts. Rob
  3. I sealed the tape and wood with a coat of epoxy paint.....let dry.
  4. I further reduced the masts in length bringing them into scale. I then cut and applied nuclear grade cloth tape(extremely sticky duct tape not available to the public) to simulate the banding and then applied the chafing band.
  5. Worked on the masts today.. After turning them I tried several media for the bands with no good results. here are the banded(pencil thus far) mast resting in place.
  6. Was the question ever asked....when/how/who made the tooling for this particular build? Looks like the tooling was designed for multiple replications of the build or similar builds. Rob
  7. Tarping the external boats adds depth, interest and detail to your build...and is a quick way to remedy the issue. Or you can go the other direction and gut the interiors and scratch build their interiors to correct representations. It's all about what makes the captain happy. Rob
  8. Thanks Mark. I appreciate that. I tend to work outside the box. My default descriptor is; I will use anything or any material to achieve my goals. I build scale ship models and in doing so, there is no prerequisite demanding one only use a particular material...ie(wood). That further delineation would be a purist....and I ain't no purist. I fully appreciate purists and those who are building to demonstrate actual building practices or historical construction techniques, however, even they have to compromise based on wood selection and metal choice(No one is using white oak, black iron or hemp). I use the phrase, *Paint covers a multitude of sins*. And it does... on real ships it protects against the elements and seals the wood and its seams...that is why you never see(or rarely) unpainted full scale ships. Some Smaller vessels are varnished but that is another subject. Rob
  9. Thanks greatly Kees. I do the best I can with whatever I find. Rob
  10. Fantastic Hugh...I love Donald McKay clippers..He's my favorite builder of these magnificent ships . I will be watching your log with anticipation. Good luck and fair winds. Rob
  11. Thanks guys. After establishing the width(1/4")...cutting out the middle to produce the 4 external legs/arms...it looked like the familiar triangle legged...or *A* frame legged crab winch. See...that was the construction issue. Making the legs all uniform. This method provided me with a repeatable process and one that also left convincing results. I also attempted to cast the leg frames , using light cured acrylic. It worked, but the assembly was far more tedious and at this scale proved to complex and down right exhausting. I thought my way out of a mess....I think. I've concluded I will attempt to replicate the masts by casting them as well...if not for an experiment to see if it is possible. If failure is my reward...then I will do it the hard way. We'll see. Rob
  12. Well..here is a drawing of the original part and drawn on it are the portions cut away(In yellow) and the resulting shape of the part needed. I had to cut using a hard cutting disc because the metal is hardened spring steel. Clamp the part cut off the excess and then grind out the center....then clean up the edges with a fine grinding stone bur in my hand piece. I didn't take any images of the actual process. I then fashioned the drums from wood stock and some left over stanchions froma Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark....trimmed to fit and fashioned to mimic the control rod . The gear reduction gear is fashioned from HO train accessory break kits for boxcars(the break wheels) Then painted black to hide a multitude of sins. Rob
  13. I fabricated my winches from Clam clips.......These little guys. I cut the large lip edge off and cut it down and removed the center..then added the roller drum and guide/actuation rod for the handle. Just to let you all see the re-engineering I sometimes go through. Rob
  14. Yeah....I wrestled with many ideas and processes of fabrication till I settled on the design used. Lots of grinding and metal fab was necessary. Rob
  15. I checked and my Dremel lathe doesn't have enough length in the bed to hold the masts....sooooo...I'll need to turn them on the larger wood lathe in the wood shop. Rob
  16. These winches are not an exact replicas of the image pictured....the winches of the period were numerous..so I had a choice...I chose one similar. Now when they dry I will mount them and then get to some masts. Rob
  17. Finally got around to making the six crab winches. These little 1/4" buggers were difficult...especially having to make 6 identical. You can see the image in the background that was the model. Rob
  18. I own a smaller Dremel lathe I rarely ever use...I might set it up in my workshop and use it for turning masts. Rob
  19. Fantastic work Jeff......I can appreciate your ingenious methods......Your home made lathe appears to be set up for a left handed worker. Love that Great Republic picture.....places just in the right place to give you inspiration. Your build is coming along nicely. Rob
  20. I'm missing something...what book? OH..I found it. I have that book in my personal library. Rob
  21. Popeye.....This build will be groundwork for developing your adaptive re-engineering skills. Having a good set of plans and images will aid even further. Sometimes these smaller less accurate models need a flexible modeler to bring them from a possible nightmare to a reasonable representation of the vessel. Your doing very well. Make sure you keep the deck and monkie rail line even and properly curved. This model could lend itself to hyper detailing if the modeler was ambitious. I can't tell you how many times I had to forgo the provided structures or parts in some kits and completely scratch build them myself. A scratch builders life. Good luck and feel free to ask me any questions if you have any that have not been answered. Rob
×
×
  • Create New...