leclaire

Hi Eric,
 
I just got through watching your riverboat presentation. It was fascinating and you did a great job. The moderator kind of summed it up for me at the end when he said that he felt like he had just read an entire book on the subject in just one hour. Unfortunately I was unable to stick around for the Q & A session but I plan on watching this again on the recording on the you tube channel.
 
Many thanks.
 
Bob

Eric, I am really looking forward to your presentation.
 
Bob

I expect that including the manual drafting phase in a build-log would be of great educational value to the "younger generation." Fifty years ago, "mechanical drawing" was a staple of most boy's high school education. Today, the average high school kid doesn't even know what a tee-square and triangle are, let alone a batten and ducks. CAD has its strengths, to be sure, but for model lofting, I've yet to see a time, or cost, advantage to CAD over old fashioned lofting on a drawing board. Perhaps many would enjoy seeing how easily it is done.

Mark - mission accomplished. That was definitely the look that I was going for. 
 
 
 
gak1965 - That is amazing. He definitely had a good run. I can only hope to last that long.
 
 
Keith - there seem to be an over abundance if mini builds with this one. A lot more that I had initially expected, but well worth it. It definitely breaks the build up and gives me a chance to clear my workbench every now and then. 
 
 
Eric - Thanks. The photos definitely help keep track of the process. If it weren't for those, I would most likely lose track of what and how I did it. The build log certainly helps.
 
 
MCB - I appreciate the compliment. It's almost a shame that most of these features will hidden inside and difficult to see. But, at least I'll have photographic evidence that they are there.
 
 
vaddoc - Thank you and happy to have you along on the Journey. Still a long ways to go, so kick back and enjoy the ride. I'll try to keep it as entertaining as possible.
 
-Brian

If I just look at the finished work, I'd swear you used cast iron for the engines and pump.   Incredible detail going on.

Greeting everyone,
 
Hope everyone is staying safe and healthy.
 
I am back with another update on my build. I have not made much progress on the boat itself, but I have managed to get several interior pieces done in spite of not having electricity or water for four days due to the "Big Texas Freeze and Snow Storm". What an adventure that was.
 
Starting off, I finally managed to tackle the engines. This was one of the builds that I was dreading due to the fact that I just couldn't get my head around how to make them look somewhat realistic. The more I pondered them the more I finally came to the conclusion that for the most part not much of them will be seen and did my best to replicate what I though would be visible through the viewport. So this is is what I came up with.
 
Earlier in the build I had started the framework and pistons along with the pitman arm yoke. During the process if building them, I wasn't liking the scale and look of the yoke. That's when I sidelined them. I really didn't want to rebuild the entire thing, so I salvaged what I could and made some adjustments here and there.
 
The beginnings of the frames and pistons as well as version 1.0 of the yoke.
 

 

 

 
At this point is where started the revision. Unfortunately I didn't take very many pictures due to the fact that I wasn't really sure if I was going to use this version of them or not. But the more I worked on them, the better they started to look.
 
More pieces and parts added. Forgive me, but I am not up on the nomenclature of all the parts that make up the engines so for now pieces and parts will have to do. 

 
Again my aluminum tape came in handy to make the rivets along the sides of the yoke guides. I made a visit to the local Hobby Lobby and found all kinds of neat little wooden parts that were useful in the construction of the engines (and other parts). Some of these included miniature spools, wooden beads, and wooden discs. The rocker arms (best guess at what they are called) are the same aluminum strips that I used to form the rings on my paddlewheel.

 

 
Completed port engine, minus paint.

 
The finished product, port side. 

 
...and both engines completed. There are various linkages that still need to be fabricated, but I'll get to them when I am ready to install them and the paddle wheel

 
 
Next up were the foot lockers and ammo crates.
 
For the foot lockers, I just cut out a few blocks  and trimmed them with some 1/8"x1/16" basswood strips around the tops and 1/32"x3/16" strips on the ends to hide the grain of the blocks. I used some thin 1/8" wide brass strips for the hasps, then aged the brass with Brass Black and the wood with a mini torch. A light sanding and a coat of satin varnish, then fitted the handles made from standard tan rigging line and viola.

 

 
 
The ammo crates were constructed similarly to the foot lockers. I used some scrap Teak blocks that I had and trimmed the tops of these with 1/16"x1/16" basswood strips.

 

 

 
Next I added a divider in the middle and painted the bottoms black for depth.

 
 
Next was the fun part. There are four different types of cannons on board (not counting the deck Howitzer on the Hurricane deck). That means that there were four different sizes of cannon balls used. Well, it was easy to scale the 8" parrot rifle since the bore size is given in the name. 8" roughly converts to 4.2mm in 1:48th scale. However, how do you convert 42lbs, 32lbs and 30lbs into inches and then millimeters? Thank goodness for the internet. I'm not sure how I made it through High School and College without it, but is sure comes in handy nowadays. I found this most useful website in my research that all Civil War buffs should check out (if you don't already know about it). Civil War Artillery is a fascinating site, full of all sorts of facts and history on none other than Civil War Artillery. They even have a conversion table that converts the cannon ball poundage into its proper diameter (caliber). So according to their table the 42lb ammo is roughly 7" in diameter, converted to 1:48th is about 3.7mm. The 32lb ammo is roughly 6.4" and 3.4mm converted and the 30lb ammo is roughly 6.3" and 3.3mm converted.
 
Now where I am going with this is I needed to fill the ammo boxes with, what else, ammo. During my Hobby Lobby adventure, I found the bead section and it is full of potential "cannon ball" material. So with that being said I managed to find some black plastic beads that measured 4mm and 3.5mm. I figured that the differences between 3.7mm and 3.3mm was so negligible that 4mm and 3.5mm would suffice for what I needed, and the fact that there were no intermediate sizes, I made do with what they had. And with that, I stocked up the ammo crates. Another thought that I had was did they use different size crate for the different size ammo or did they go to that much expense? I went with the thought that they kept it simple, and had a one size fits all for the crates. That is why some of my crates look a little more like they are overflowing than the others. Again this is another feature that will mostly be hidden, but I still wanted to get it as accurate looking as possible.

 
 
Next piece was another one that I was somewhat dreading, but after I got started on it, it actually turned out to be a lot of fun to build. This was the "Doctor" pump or Auxiliary Engine. The original "Doctor" pump from the Cairo was lost during the salvage operation and there was no accurate documentation of it's actual construction. However there are tons of examples out there, I just stuck with the example given in the HSR. 
 
First step was the construction of the fly-wheel.

 

 

 
Next was the construction of the base, supports and top frame.

 

 

 

 

 
Then it was on to the various pump housings, push rods and linkage.

 

 

 
The valves I simulated with some small beads and wooden discs cut from the end of 1/4" mahogany dowels.

 
The pillow block oilers also made with small beads and brass nails.

 
More linkages and the flywheel brake installed.

 

 

 
Then everything was given a coat of black and clear satin for looks.

 

 
I still have a few more valves to add as well as the piping for the preheaters mounted on top and a few other details, but I'll get to those later. Some of the valves will require the pump to be in place due to the fact that I will have to drill a hole in the hull (yikes) for the fresh water intake.
 
So that is all for this update. I hope to have more next time. My plan is to work on the bilge pump and capstan, and hopefully of my cannon barrels come in soon, so I can get started installing them in the carriages and getting them rigged up.
 
Until next time, thank you all for stopping in and the likes and kind words.
 
-Brian

Eric, I am really looking forward to your presentation.
 
Bob

Eric, I am really looking forward to your presentation.
 
Bob

Anyone who followed this log might be interested in an upcoming talk I'll be giving:
 
 
 
Steamboats symbolize a historic era in Missouri River exploration, commerce and transportation. Missouri River steamboats evolved over time, becoming ever more adapted to the basin’s unique environment while simultaneously altering it, much like an invasive species introduced into a new ecosystem. In this presentation, Eric Reuter will use hand-made scale models of Missouri River steamboats and other vessels to discuss the linked history of steamboat development and environmental changes in the Missouri basin, drawing on his professional and personal interests in the links between geology, ecology, history, and land management.
 
Specific information, including how to watch, is available here. The time is 7 pm American Central time.
 

Searchlight, ladder soldered and some internal fitting out. All WIP.

Your comment re IP's made me scratch my head for a minute. Then it dawned on me that it been a little over 50 years since I got my butt chewed for having a couple of those on my uniform. Funny how I remembered that but can't seem to recall what I had for dinner last night.
 
Bob

Your comment re IP's made me scratch my head for a minute. Then it dawned on me that it been a little over 50 years since I got my butt chewed for having a couple of those on my uniform. Funny how I remembered that but can't seem to recall what I had for dinner last night.
 
Bob

Don't forget emery boards of various sizes for use in sanding. I get mine by raiding the admirals stash when she is not looking. 
 
Bob

IP ?
 
... and I always tried to find a use idea for those 'pizza-savers' - thanks for the tip, Bob. Tha'ts a modeller's mind: whenever he comes across 'something', he thinks, how it could be used in the workshop.

Don't forget emery boards of various sizes for use in sanding. I get mine by raiding the admirals stash when she is not looking. 
 
Bob

Don't forget emery boards of various sizes for use in sanding. I get mine by raiding the admirals stash when she is not looking. 
 
Bob

Don't forget emery boards of various sizes for use in sanding. I get mine by raiding the admirals stash when she is not looking. 
 
Bob

Don't forget emery boards of various sizes for use in sanding. I get mine by raiding the admirals stash when she is not looking. 
 
Bob

Brian, I remember changing the rod bearings in my 46 Chevy pickup out on the curb in Arlington when it was 11 degrees. We drove down from Washington State to visit my folks. I also remember another time driving on two inches of ice coming back from a business trip to Louisiana. Texas winter weather can turn deadly when the Polar Express drops down through Amarillo. Plus you can get a tornado or two in the Spring and 115 degree heat in the summer..........now I remember why I left Texas!  

Little more done on her. 

Coming along nicely.
About the mast, probably yes. If not tapered it will look like a telephone post I'm afraid. Take a google tour over the web and look for motor boats with masts, like older fishing boats or more modern long distance motor boats. That will give you an idea of how masts are shaped generally.

The Chopper in its various iterations works great on thin plastic and wood. I have 3 and like the one Ryland showed, since I can replace the cutting surface. Older ones were more likely to get gouged out under the blade. Cutting much over 1/8 inch thick stock, the razor blade deforms, marring the cut. I've done better with a low sided miter box, in conjunction with a razor saw, to make good standard angle cuts. If you need different angles, you may have to cut those angles into your miter box or make up separate cutting fixtures to cut those special angles. We're all tool junkies to a lesser or a greater degree, but sometimes KISS comes into play, too.

That she definitely is a beast. For some reason I was thinking it was smaller than that. I can see where she would take up a lot of space, especially if the oars were in set and ready to row. But you really want to at least put the mast in place, otherwise you’re going to miss out on all the fun rigging. 😜
 
-Brian

Getting some base colour down and generally detailing.  Barrels a bit too weathered. Will tonne them down. But general colours for the boat seems pretty good.

Hey, that is great! Thanks Kurt, very much appreciated.
 
This is exactly why this is such a terrific site, all the support everyone gives each other.
 
Bob