John Allen

well done! that must have been a lot of work considering that Jim Beam was the beverage of choice.

The hulls of my boats are now shaped to my satisfaction <phew>!!
 
I think that deserves a drink !!
 
In the fore-ground are some early attempts at making internal ribs ....

I'm inclined to disagree about shipways the detailing is the best especially vs the old euopean kits (which are very meh) but you are also going by images of the models and how they should look when built then look on this site for that as some ms Constitutions build logs on here look great. Don't look at the images advertised for the kit since they always built quickly for advertising purposes not a work of love. Remember a kit is only about a third complete ever if you want a model to be as detailed as possible you have to bash it and scratch parts.

Don't cringe this made sound crude to all you perfectionists (do not take offense no criticism intended you sometimes have to work with whats at hand))  but having no top end tools,  I used a dremel with a sanding drum, held stock by hand and slowly rotated starting at the middle worked out intermittently checked with a micrometer, I ended up with with some hollows that were easy to sand out with sheet sandpaper it's pretty fast. only had to redo one on hms vic.

Rob,
 
I am a 68 soon to be 70 approaching old geezer status. Never have any doubts or wonder what if I had done this, what if I had done that. Never have any regrets life is to short. I can tell this is a project you really want to do, jump off the cliff and go for it. Sounds like you got a good cheering section, and the bonus is you do not have to clear off the dining room table now.
 
Good luck John   

Don't cringe this made sound crude to all you perfectionists (do not take offense no criticism intended you sometimes have to work with whats at hand))  but having no top end tools,  I used a dremel with a sanding drum, held stock by hand and slowly rotated starting at the middle worked out intermittently checked with a micrometer, I ended up with with some hollows that were easy to sand out with sheet sandpaper it's pretty fast. only had to redo one on hms vic.

Many thanks as always for all the kind comments and the "likes". On with the show....
  Of Moulds and Wheels 
Before completing the finish on the hull, I decided to take a little diversion in two directions. Firstly, I decided that it would be a good time to make a mould of the bow so that I could work on the cutwater off the model (and hence protect that lovely surface). And secondly, I decided it was about time to start tackling the building of a new steering wheel.
 
To make a mould of the bow, I bought some plaster from the local art store. I could have gone all fancy and bought some very expensive mould making material, but as this is a one-off job, I decided to keep it simple and inexpensive. To create the mould, I mixed up some plaster and water and then suspended the boat above it by looping some brass wire through the rudder post, then attaching some rope hooked over the garage door tracks, and then lower the boat into the plaster. Of course, I had taken the precaution of wrapping the bow in cling wrap first!
 

 
Once the plaster had set, I removed the boat and coated the mould with some silicon grease to act as a release agent. Then I mixed up some more plaster and water and poured it into the mould. I also inserted two pieces of dowel to use as “handles” later on. In this picture, the cast has set and I have cut around the top edge prior to lifting out.
 

 
And here is the final product:
 

 
After this photo was taken, I cleaned up the cast with a light sanding and then painted it with a coat of finishing resin to (hopefully) prevent it from crumbling as I work with it. More on the cutwater to come at a later date.
 
I had decided to replace the kit-supplied steering wheel after reading an excellent “how-to” by Kip Catanese over on the RC Groups forum. Kip made a replacement wheel for a fellow forum member and documented his process so well, that I decided to try and replicate it – at least as far as I am able.  What follows then, is an implementation of Kip’s methodology. I hope I can do it justice.
 
The starting point is a piece of 1/8” diameter brass rod. This needs to be bent around a form and then silver soldered to form our basic wheel. To create a form, Kip turned a “buck” on his lathe to the correct diameter to match the finished wheel’s Inside Diameter of 2” (50mm). This is slightly smaller than the kit supplied wheel as Kip reckoned it was a little too large for the scale. That’s good enough for me Kip!
 
So, following Kip’s lead, I laminated two pieces or 2 ¼” square x ¾” scrap timber together with epoxy, marked the desired diameter, mounted it in a four jaw self-centering chuck, and then turned the outer portion down to the correct diameter. Although Kip used hand tools on his lathe for this operation, I stuck with regular metal cutting tools and they worked just fine. Once the outer portion was turned down, I drilled a 1/8” diameter hole in the cylindrical section to anchor one end of the brass rod, and then drilled and tapped an M6 thread into the square section of the buck. The purpose of this will become clear shortly.
 

 
In order to bend the brass rod around the buck, it first needs to be annealed to make it soft enough to bend easily. I had not done much in the way of annealing before, so had a go with my little butane torch that I use for silver soldering. Well, all I can say is that this was an abject failure. I stopped and thought about it for a while and concluded that I simply wasn’t getting enough heat to the rod overall. A quick (and not inexpensive) trip to the hardware store solved my problems……
 

 
This little torch uses something called Ultra Gas, which apparently is the “next generation MAPP replacement”. I wouldn’t know about that, but what I do know is that it heated my brass rod to cherry red in no time at all, and after a quick dunk in a bucket of water, it bent like a piece of soft rubber around my buck.
 

 
In the picture above, you can see the purpose of the threaded hole (again a direct copy of Kip’s method). I have used an M6 socket head screw with a “mudguard” washer to hold down the very end of the brass rod and keep it nice and tight on the buck while it is being cut. After this picture was taken, I moved the threaded hold-down to the next face around (ie 90 degrees) as I found this to be more secure.
 
The whole assembly was then mounted in the milling vice and the ring cut using a slitting saw. This ensured that the two mating faces were perpendicular to each other.
 

 
Once the piece was cut free, it was placed back on the buck with a hose clamp to ensure that it remained as true to shape as possible. 
 

 
Then it was just a simple case of silver soldering the ring closed and doing a little clean up with a file.  Here is a picture of the finished ring, alongside the original kit-supplied wheel. You can see that it is slightly smaller – the outer diameter of the new wheel is about the same size as the inner diameter of the kit wheel.
 

 
Next up, thinning and shaping the exterior of the wheel, and then milling the finger crenallations. So far Kip’s treatise has been a dream to work with. I’m hoping that the remainder goes as well!
 

Now that is just stunning. One little thing though - there is a tiny bit of orange peeling on your finish. When I was still making model cars, I used extremely fine grit sandpaper to get rid of it. Might I suggest you try this: https://www.thesandpaperman.com.au/micro-mesh-reg-1500-regular-sheet-150-x-300-mm.html
 
As you can see, grits of 3200, 4000, 6000, 8000, and 12000 are available. This will give you the flawless finish that your model deserves. 

Don't cringe this made sound crude to all you perfectionists (do not take offense no criticism intended you sometimes have to work with whats at hand))  but having no top end tools,  I used a dremel with a sanding drum, held stock by hand and slowly rotated starting at the middle worked out intermittently checked with a micrometer, I ended up with with some hollows that were easy to sand out with sheet sandpaper it's pretty fast. only had to redo one on hms vic.

Don't cringe this made sound crude to all you perfectionists (do not take offense no criticism intended you sometimes have to work with whats at hand))  but having no top end tools,  I used a dremel with a sanding drum, held stock by hand and slowly rotated starting at the middle worked out intermittently checked with a micrometer, I ended up with with some hollows that were easy to sand out with sheet sandpaper it's pretty fast. only had to redo one on hms vic.

Magic.

Rob,
 
I am a 68 soon to be 70 approaching old geezer status. Never have any doubts or wonder what if I had done this, what if I had done that. Never have any regrets life is to short. I can tell this is a project you really want to do, jump off the cliff and go for it. Sounds like you got a good cheering section, and the bonus is you do not have to clear off the dining room table now.
 
Good luck John   

Here are some photos of the completed model. While there are many things that I like about the model, there are, of course, those things that I dislike. This has been a love/hate relationship for 5 years and even now, I am not certain where I am in that cycle. I know that this has been a great learning experience and I am delighted to have completed the model. Right now that, and Christmas, are what has me feeling good. I thank everyone who has looked in and followed along. It is all very much appreciated.
 
My client loves the model and I hope her son will like it when he sees it on Christmas morning. This is something he does not know about and will not see coming.
 
Russ

It has been a while since any update. Not much to show, but things are moving along. Work and family have been taking priority, but I am hopeful I can make more progress over the next few weeks.
 
The display board has been cut and needs only a little more finish on it.
 
The deck pump is in place. It is pinned to the deck with a bamboo dowel. Like all the other pieces on deck, it can be removed and replaced at any time. The pump was made with a wooden base with paper for the rest of the structure. If you stand a away a little bit, it does not look completely hideous.
 
The masts and sails are in the works. I only need a few more eyebolts and blocks attached and I will be ready to set the masts in place permanently.
 
Thanks for looking in.
 
Russ

Hi Rob, isn't it nice to have so much encouragement. I built the Morgan starting in 2000 and finished her in 2004. The kit was from Marine Model and solid hull and was bought from an Episcopalian pastor who started the original build in the 70's. The kit was of the Morgan when she was in the movie "Java".  Included with the kit was a set of plans from Mystic seaport as she was in the 1895-1906 period and a contact number for Mystic Seaport. It took a bit of bashing to change her appearance. I had her on display at the Manitowoc Model Ship Show and she now is displayed in my sons accounting office conference room. I get to visit it periodically. Two things; 1, you and your lovely wife should visit the Morgan at Mystic (she is a living museum) and 2, when you have questions call them, they are the experts. It is not often that you can walk the deck of a square rigged ship that you are in the process of modeling.............feathermerchant   

Hey Rob, I'd also say you should go for it!  I think the most important thing is that you find a subject your heart is into, given that these are very long term projects.  I saw the Morgan in person a few years ago, and knew it was a ship I had to build.
 
I just started the Morgan, and it certainly is a little more complicated than many of the model kits that are out there.  But, the good news is that there are a lot more Morgan build logs going here than there used to be - so, you have a treasure trove of resources.  Just take your time on it, study the plans, ask questions.  For me, building these ships is more about the journey, and not the destination anyway.

In late 1988, I completed a Bluejacket USS Constitution.  It was my second wood ship model kit, and turned out light years better than my first: Billlings' 'Jylland.'  I built the Constitution on the kitchen table, having to clear off and clean up after every session... no sense in making my long suffering wife suffer even more!  Also, I was working full time and doing house remodeling throughout the build.  I must truly be insane.
 
Now, some twenty-nine years later, I've run out of 'projects,' and my thoughts keep returning to another ship build... wanting something without cannons, I'm especially drawn to the Charles W. Morgan.  And here is where I need guidance, encouragement, or just a plain ol' sanity check (perhaps even therapy).
 
Today, I'm seventy seven and long, long retired.  My health is good, eyesight excellent (thank you very much, cataract surgeon!), and my hands are steady.  The kitchen table would not be needed in that I can set up a suitable work area in the 'office' of our modest home.  
 
But I've read and re-read many of the build logs of the excellent Morgan builders here and genuinely feel that I'm just out of my league.  I'm concerned about taking on a challenge the scope and detail of the Morgan, while - on the other hand - that's likely just why I'm drawn to it.  My sweetie-pie wife (of fifty seven years) is quite encouraging... she says 'do it'... saying that even I fail to finish, I'll have great fun.
 
So, I don't know... seventy-seven yeas old and a Charges W. Morgan.... seems like it might prove to be a poor combination.  
 
So, what would you do if you were an old geezer like me with limited experience?
 
Oh, I've attached a couple of photos of my Constitution, NOT for compliments (which it doesn't deserve) but just to show my general capabilities.
 
Thanks for your consideration and whatever light you may shed on this dilemma!
 
Rob Pritchett 

Here are some more photographs of the Brazzera, just to 'feel' the shape of the hull once more, before I do some brief view through the Trabaccolo build...
 
 
 

 

I feel like my hands are tied behind my back.  Everything seems so laborious.  Maybe I found a way to slow time.
 
Anyway, I did get a few more planks glued down...

 
Depending how the light casts, the transom can appear well defined.

I had considered a darker wood for the transom, Keith, but I am planning on applying a decal with the name and hailing port.  I tried to put a decal on dark wood on the head of one the guitars I built but the dark wood overwhelmed it.  No matter how light I made the letters, the decal created always came out partly transparent and got lost in the darker wood.
 
There is really only one part that bothers me.  Right at the rail, where the transom and hull meet, the planking is somewhat rounded.  But once mineral spirits are applied, the rest looks better defined.

I'm a bit hesitant to create a sharper edge because I don't know how much wood is left.  I probably need to stop fussing over it and just move on.  Perfection can paralyze one if taken too far.
 
 
hof00, thank you for the compliment.

Harry, I must have been reading your mind.  It seemed nothing I did could create the definition I hoped for,  I think the problem is the lines of the planking hid some of the definition.  So I just winged it.
 

 

 

 
I applied some mineral spirits and that did bring out some more definition but I don't think I will be able to get the definition I had hoped for unless I cut in a darker plank to define it.  Doubtful...

I made some progress on the Pelikaan. Wooden guards and some metalworking beneath the spraydeck. Next stap will be adding all the details and then the opening where the fish goes in the ship. Lots of work to do but very rewarding.
 
Untitled by Model Fishingships, on Flickr
 
And here some parts of the ship safely in my new showcase. I made this case to protect the parts when I work on other parts.
 
Untitled by Model Fishingships, on Flickr
 
Kind regards, Kees

Hello fellow shipbuilders,   Meanwhile I made the roof and the so-called "Pet" and that makes the bridge really complete. It was very hard to find the correct shape and it took me more cardboard and ps plate than I wanted. But at the end it worked out well.

What a thing of beauty this ship. If I could build a model ship like this....I would. But for now, am content just to watch modelers as skilled as you just to learn how.
 
Great work, Mark.

I continued with the skylights - taking care to get them square.
 

 
Ribs and skirts were added.
 

 
I didn't think that any below deck detail would be visible through the small skylight windows, so I didn't do any. I was a bit worried however that the lighter woods on the inside of the hull might look a bit odd so I decided to clad the inner spaces in darker wood.
 

 
The 5 skylights are now in position but not painted or fixed. I'm hoping they will come up really well after a few coats of poly. Fingers crossed that the joints will show up well.
 

 
I think I'll have a go at the windows next. I have a few ideas but it all seems a bit complicated and fiddley.