John Allen

Up on post #8... the lasered sheet.  
 
Welcome to the "darkside"....   and I hope you have fun.

The keel and hull lines are all separated same as I did with Sultana and templates cut out with carboard. I did this for both models. NOte my Sigmund Frued action figure to the left. he assures me that I am perfectly sane!

So step 1 for me anyways is to take apart the plans into the pieces necessary for shaping and constructing the hull. Note that I superimposed the deck hatches etc. over the lines using bitmap so that way I can justge placement and size of everything that will have to be built on the deck. Also shows mast placement which on the wood block will be moved appropriately. Here are the top and side profile templates of both ships and both keels alongside.
 
 

The first layer of planks is on at the stern. 

Liberto,
 
A fine example of a clean build.

OK!
 
Here we go.  After much effort I have things fixed enough that I can put up pictures.
 
Here is where she is at present.  Hull made, floor in and deck on.
 

 
 
Yes, I should have painted the hull before I put on the deck.  As many times as I have done this you think I would learn. 
 

 
 
This is where I hope to be going with this.  Painted hull and polished wood for the cabin.
 

 
 
More to come later.  Hopefully on the other boat.
 
Bob

Hi Bob
 
I keep thinking I would like to build an Edwardian steam launch - including building the engine - I have built a steam engine previously and enjoyed the process. I look forward to seeing your build - computer willing!!!!!!

Awww, how sweet  

A Stand and some Graphics
 
Now that the finish on the hull is approaching a state that I’d like to preserve, I decided that it was time to make a stand. So today that’s what I did. Not sure yet if this will feature as part of the final display but in the meantime, it is quite functional. It is simply made, copying the design in Pat Matthews’ excellent book. The uprights are 16mm dowel, while the cross-braces are 8mm dowel. I finished it off with Vallejo Metal Colour “Chrome” and the Vallejo Metal Varnish (Gloss), all applied via the airbrush. One advantage to using these paints is that they dry almost instantly. A coat of primer, a coat of colour, and a coat of gloss, all applied in quick succession through the afternoon. The contact points have a self-adhesive felt applied for protection.
 

 
Then it was time to apply the graphics. I first gave the entire hull a light wet sand wit 600 grit paper, so the overall look is a bit ho-hum (the gloss will return with the next coat of clear). The graphics are vinyl and come from Callie Graphics in the US. I went there following a recommend of several others over on the RC Groups forum and must say that I’m delighted with both the service and the product. I had a quick email conversation with Callie, sent her a pdf of the general design and told her what they were for.  She quickly came back with some proofs for me; we made one minor change; another set of proofs and we were in business. A few days later the finished product showed up in the mail. I ordered two complete sets and with postage the whole lot cost me less than AUD $20.
 
So now for the big reveal!
 

 
I may have mentioned that this is going to be my wife’s boat, so it is named for her, Georgina. Georgie Gerl (yes, the spelling is correct) is her email “handle”.
 
And of course, one must have the Chris Craft logo and a registration number:
 

 
If you look closely, you will see that the registration number is GE 041282 GD, which is a combination of our initials and the date of our wedding (in non-American date format). I know, I’m just an old romantic…….. The admiral inspected the graphics on completion and has given her seal of approval. 
 
Next up, sealing the graphics under several more coats of clear varnish……………

Grant
 
You never cease to amaze, I've been following your builds since your Victory (thanks again for your help on mine) whats next scratch build of an R/C Queen Mary. 
 
You put a lot of TLC in the Chris Craft it shows

Mark,
 
I found when encountering a problem that causes a headache the best way to avoid the headache is to consume many beverages before you start the rigging. Then your totally relaxed and do not give a you know what, and the problem with the rigging will go smooth as silk. Caveat; hopefully when you wake up the next day maybe the rigging is ok or you made a mess of things and now you have the headache.   looking great its going to be a beauty.

Mark,
 
I found when encountering a problem that causes a headache the best way to avoid the headache is to consume many beverages before you start the rigging. Then your totally relaxed and do not give a you know what, and the problem with the rigging will go smooth as silk. Caveat; hopefully when you wake up the next day maybe the rigging is ok or you made a mess of things and now you have the headache.   looking great its going to be a beauty.

A bit more progress on the cabin.
 
The front and back were constructed along the same lines as the sides - made a bit more complicated by the curve at the top. I remeasured the curvature of the top which although made at a radius of 4 inch had sprung out to a radius of 5 inch. Not a problem but I was glad I checked before making the front and rear.
 
A few photo's------
 
I templated the top mahogany strip before shaping it on the disc and spindle sander.
 


 
The front has 2 window and 2 inset panels.
 

 
The rear has 2 windows - i still has yet have to attach the door jambs with the hinge cutouts.
 

 
The chart table top was also made and attached above the chart table drawer. Also the instrument panel facia was made and attached to the inside of the front. The panel itself is made from 2 pieces of mahogany with the grain matched as a mirror image. Not easy to see this but it felt good doing it.
 

 
A few more images with the walls held in place by an elastic band at this stage.
 

manufacturing slot:




 
Thread bottom feet:





 
 

Grant
 
You never cease to amaze, I've been following your builds since your Victory (thanks again for your help on mine) whats next scratch build of an R/C Queen Mary. 
 
You put a lot of TLC in the Chris Craft it shows

Liberto,
 
A fine example of a clean build.

Liberto,
 
A fine example of a clean build.

Grant
 
You never cease to amaze, I've been following your builds since your Victory (thanks again for your help on mine) whats next scratch build of an R/C Queen Mary. 
 
You put a lot of TLC in the Chris Craft it shows

Hello Les, I think your problem is the other kits are calling to you. I try and not have any other kits around while I'm building a specific model. This keeps me focused on the project at hand rather than looking at future projects thinking they might be easier or I just need a break. The problem is when you take a break, that same project will be waiting for you and you will start feeling guilty for not buckling down and finishing it. This forum is full of models that were started with good intentions, put aside for various reasons, but the main reason is usually lost interest if the builder is honest about it. I have to say here that after close to 20 years of building models and 30 or so ship models that I finished, I don't have a single model laying around that I didn't finish. No brag just fact. Now, yes, I too have those days where I don't really want to mess with the model and even weeks. But I try and push myself to spend a minimum of an hour a day on the model even if it's just to research the build.
 
Like today for instance, I went into my work room, attached a couple of pieces to the model, only to realize that I did it wrong and had to straighten it out. That is when I called it quits for the day. But the two days before, I spent most of both days on the model. I have bought soooooo many models from friends, ebay, forums and Craigslist where they were started with good intentions but the builder fell short and didn't finish them. Some I was glad they didn't finish because the work was so bad, others I couldn't understand how someone with such a gift for modeling couldn't stay focused long enough to finish the project.
 
 
mike   

Thanks Hoff - no problem answering questions here - that doesn't count as a "highjack".
 
It started with fibreglass cloth and 3 coats of West Systems Epoxy Resin (using their 207 Hardener). The "shiny" stuff that goes over that is a Feast Watson Spar Marine Varnish that has been diluted with 10% Mineral Turpentine and sprayed on. At the moment there is only one coat of that in place and it looks almost satin in appearance. By the time I have applied the remaining 4 or 5 coats, it will look a lot shinier. Then the hard work of polishing will begin. I have a cunning plan for that but you'll have to stay tuned to find out what that is........
 
Incidentally, the main reason for using the Spar Marine varnish is that it contains UV protection. As this boat is going to be exposed to the elements, it makes sense to use products designed for such.

Incredible accuracy and precision! Everything is so clearly marked up... Will use it is a reference, a good reminder that precise model requires careful measurements, markups and reference lines.
Planking lines are soo smooth! I can go on and on and on please keep the pictures coming!

Thursday, November 17, 2016  
The planking task is going on . . slowly  
As I anticipated in a previous message this activity, for this particular model, is proving more boring (in terms of time) than difficult.
Since I can't use nails and similar to hold the strakes, I need to work using exclusively clamps, so I have to wait for the glue to dry before going on further.
In this way, as I dedicate to my hobby a (part of a) day, usually the afternoon, I proceed at a speed of a strake per side per day.
Today I applied the sixth plank, so then, to complete the hull planking, I need to install other 8 strips: almost two weeks from tomorrow.
 
Here below a picture of the model taken this morning, before installing the sixth strake.  
01 - 20161117_104955.jpg In the next image, in the foreground, two clamps specially made to hold the tips of the planks at bow and stern. They are proving invaluable in their function. The sandpaper applied at their tips is thought to avoid sliding on the keel; the pressure is exerted on the other hand via a common clamp as shown below in image 03.
 
02 - 20161117_105027.jpg In this picture a "catalog" of all the clamps I have to use during this task, here waiting for the glue makes its duty.
 
03 - 20161117_160938.jpg See you next time, Jack.
 

Mark,
 
I found when encountering a problem that causes a headache the best way to avoid the headache is to consume many beverages before you start the rigging. Then your totally relaxed and do not give a you know what, and the problem with the rigging will go smooth as silk. Caveat; hopefully when you wake up the next day maybe the rigging is ok or you made a mess of things and now you have the headache.   looking great its going to be a beauty.

Finished running ratlines on the first half of the foremast shrouds tonight. Counted up and there are 180 clove hitches that were tied to complete it. Only had a couple get loose on on me towards the bottom so while annoyed, I'm also rather happy about those results. Now to rest my eyes so I can do the other side!

With a little actual blood, sweat and tears, (after stabbing myself in the finger with a hobby knife last night), I managed to get in several hours to work on the foremast. Got all the blocks installed, deadeyes for the foretopmast set and the mast has been stepped into position and is now ready for shrouds. I think I am going to get some free time Sunday to do more work so I am hoping to get a good start on the shrouds. I need to do a little more research though and make sure I have all the blocks and eyebolts on the deck under them before they get in the way. I think I may be missing a couple at the base of the mast. I can always install them later if I do miss something but it is nice right now with no rigging in the way.