John Allen

Hey, folks! Here's a great tip for making realistic rope coils. This post was originally made by member Peta_V in his excellent build log for Master Korabel's AVOS kit, which you can read here. Enjoy!
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Here is a short guide, how I do coils. 
I have a jig from the scrap wood with 3 removable pins (2,3,5) and 3 securing points (1,4,6).

1. Secure the line to point 1 and make several loops around pins 2 and 3. I do 4-6 loops so the coils does not look similar. (I start with removed pin 5). Once finished with loops secure the other end to point 4.

2. Unsecure line from point 1 and pull out the very first loop through the middle of the coil. 
3. Now you have to twist this to form the eye and secure it with pin 5.

4. Remove pin 2 and fully insert pin 5. Now you can adjust the coil as you want a once happy secure the end to point 6.

5. Now I secure the coil with 3 drops of CA glue. One where the eye meets coil, second ať the bottom of the coil and third to secure the loose end to the coil. Remove the coil from the jig by removing pin 5 and trim the excess thread. 

6. Place the coil on the deck

 
Perhaps someone finds it usefull. 
Stay healthy! 
Peta_V 

Kieth,
 
Your metal work is almost supernatural kudos. I read somewhere about human osmosis. From what I read we need to meet do a fist bump and your skills will be transferred to me by human altering osmosis.
 
Bad thing is my ineptitude in certain aspects of modeling may be transferred to you.
 
Good thought bad idea.

Kieth,
 
Your metal work is almost supernatural kudos. I read somewhere about human osmosis. From what I read we need to meet do a fist bump and your skills will be transferred to me by human altering osmosis.
 
Bad thing is my ineptitude in certain aspects of modeling may be transferred to you.
 
Good thought bad idea.

Kieth,
 
Your metal work is almost supernatural kudos. I read somewhere about human osmosis. From what I read we need to meet do a fist bump and your skills will be transferred to me by human altering osmosis.
 
Bad thing is my ineptitude in certain aspects of modeling may be transferred to you.
 
Good thought bad idea.

Kieth,
 
Your metal work is almost supernatural kudos. I read somewhere about human osmosis. From what I read we need to meet do a fist bump and your skills will be transferred to me by human altering osmosis.
 
Bad thing is my ineptitude in certain aspects of modeling may be transferred to you.
 
Good thought bad idea.

Good morning everyone
 
Thank you for the likes and comments
the boom rigging will be done at a later date when i have a better understanding of where all the lines go, also depending on how she will be displayed
 
work progresses on the build, and i am thoroughly enjoying it, yesterday the stanchions above the ladders were completed,sprayed with white primer and a grime wash put on top
 
the big parts that were made up a few months ago and now being fitted, another week or so, i may have to put her on hold, as the hull will then require work and its just too wet/damp to do it, 
 
 
 

Now I know how to make what we call a gypsy for the anchor chain, thanks!

Thanks for the kind words and the 'likes' !
*******************************************
 
The hydraulic recoil-brake
 
The 30.5 cm gun in pivot-carriage C/76 was one of the first guns in the Imperial German Navy that was fitted with a hydraulic recoil-brake, at a time, when compressors and brooks were still the standard.
The recoil-brake consists of a long cylinder with screwed-on cylinder-covers at both ends. The covers are pierced for piston rods and are sealed with packed glands. The piston rods are fixed at the front and rear end of the carriage respectivly. The piston is designed as self-opening one-way valve. The cylinder is filled with glycerine through a valve on top. The front-end cylinder covers acts also as cross-head and the upper carriage is linked up through two short forked connecting rods. The cross-head runs on a kind of slide to support the weight of the brake. The two piston-rods are only connected by the short piston, which also acts as valve, and that would not be able to support the weight.
 
 

Working drawing for the parts of the hydraulic brake
 
 
 
When the gun is fired, the upper carriage slides back and the piston is pushed through the glycerine, converting the kinetic energy of the recoil into heat. The valve in the piston prevents the upper carriage from sliding back into firing position. In order to bring the gun forward, the rear end of the carriage is raised by turning the excentric bearings of the rear wheels and opening the valve in the piston. To facilitate this, the rear piston rod is hollow and a spring-loaded valve-rod extends beyond the piston-rod. The valve rod can be srcewed in and out by the aiming gunner using a long lever. In this way he can let the gun roll back into the firing position in a controlled way.
Unfortunately, not much of the hydraulic brake will be visible on the finished model, so that it was reproduced in a somewhat simplified way. It consists of five parts.
 
 

The individual parts of the hydraulic recoil-brake (the grid of the cutting mat is spaced 5 mm)
 
 
 
The piston rods were fashioned from clothes pins of 0.6 mm and 0.7 mm diameter respectively. Clothes pins are very suitable for piston rods, as they have a nicely polished surface. The eye of front piston rod was milled/filed from the head of the clothes pin.
The cylinder was turned in one piece together with the covers from a short length of 2.5 mm round steel. On the micro-mill a hole was cross-drilled for another short piece of steel that had the cross-head pins turned on. This piece was soft-soldered into the cylinder cover. The packed gland is compressed by a hexagonal nut, for which the hexagon was milled on in the dividing head in the same set-up.
The forked connecting links were laser-cut from paper and consist of three pieces each.
The bronze housing for the valve spring was turned from 1 mm brass rod.
The valve lever will be added at a later point.
 
 

 
 

 
Dry-fitting of the recoil-brake into the lower carriage.
 
 
 
It’s kind of a pity that the recoil-break witll be barely visible once the upper carriage is in place. Two grills for the guns crew and a protective tunnel over the rear end will hide most of it.
 
To be continued ...
 
 

Lou,
 
You old rascal you have been sandbagging. Thought you were old and senile and made excuses about your abilities or I should say infirmities.
 
First class job on painting the figures Kudos.

Thanks John
 
Methinks thou needs new glasses though.
 
What I see only looks OK to me. Now that I have the pictures that I can blow up it looks a little less than OK in fact. I really find that even the stuff I used to do with ease is a struggle now. I think I need some kind of light and magnification system that I don't have right now. luckily what you are seeing so far will mostly be buried within the fuselage when I get to that point.

Now it looks like a ship hull again,  nice work Mark 
It's good to see you back in the shipyard, although the trip over to the helicopter was good with some great stories and memories,  thanks👍

Thanks Sam and Mike,
Update time...
The starboard side is "mostly" sanded and shaped.  The stern needs a tad of work and the bow needs some finicky work.  So, I'm going to turn her around and get the other side into this condition.  Then I can finish the stern and bow to get a match.   The bow has some unique shaping and I'd like to do them at the same time,  My thinking is if I do one now, and later try to do the other side, I'll wonder what the heck I did.  
 

Lou,
 
You old rascal you have been sandbagging. Thought you were old and senile and made excuses about your abilities or I should say infirmities.
 
First class job on painting the figures Kudos.

Lou,
 
You old rascal you have been sandbagging. Thought you were old and senile and made excuses about your abilities or I should say infirmities.
 
First class job on painting the figures Kudos.

Lou,
 
You old rascal you have been sandbagging. Thought you were old and senile and made excuses about your abilities or I should say infirmities.
 
First class job on painting the figures Kudos.

Lou,
 
You old rascal you have been sandbagging. Thought you were old and senile and made excuses about your abilities or I should say infirmities.
 
First class job on painting the figures Kudos.

Exceptional! l love it!

Stayed up late and worked on detailing the deck and gluing Cabin and scratch built compartment under smokestack to the deck. 1st haul for Forest - 'there's no shrimp'! Toilet seat, rain boot and misc. crud. Scooper against bullwark. Small box added to lower right. Oil barrel and stack of cans added behind the cabin. Still need loads of line on deck but almost ready to install the outriggers and try net.

I was #5 in that 1969 lottery. I got drafted in early '72, too. I "dodged' if by sending some gummint form, saying I already had a blue suit and was a real 1st Lieutenant. 😝

That's OK John it adds a degree of deniable plausibility to anything we say. Of course you do remember what they say about if you can remember the 60s?

I have to remember that idea of quartering a round piece of wood to get the radius of the corners right  👍
 

The rear face of the deckhouse has bifold doors - at scale size these are quite small and I won't be making hinges. The 4 door are made as a strip.

Together with associated panels they were glued on to the core.

The side panels were left over long and were cut back to size on the mill.


The top plank was glued in place where the panels had been cut back and then a piece of mahogany was turned and slit to form the corner pieces.


The top was constructed from 0.1" wide by .060" thick planks separated by .006" card to simulate the caulking.

The hatch top cover was similarly made.

The tape is protecting the front corners that were made from turned brass rod. This reinforcement is included because of the proximity of the anchor chain.

2 holes were drilled to take the vents.

Mahogany inserts were turned to simulate the plinths on which the vents sit.

Am impressed with what you created, bears no resemblance to a base plastic kit. Wonderful job keep on. I agree on the cheaper acrylics I purchased some real cheapies Wal-Mart 2 ozs they go on great and still look good after a long period of time. I did a half model sailboat and tried their enamels also cheap as dirt, could not believe how well it turned out, never any brush marks either one.
 
I know a lot of these folks poo poo these paints to each their own. Myself being in the empty pocket bracket of society enjoy a deal.
 
Keep posting doing a great job.

Lou,
 
Could be my memory, its sharp as a tack from the 50s to 60s there's a disconnect from the 70s to late 90s memories during that time come in flashbacks ( I'll try to remember a specific and go blank. Can be in a dead sleep a day later than whammy it comes back) present day to day hour to hour is a crap-shoot.

On a bus going to Maxwell Field for my induction physical. This was before the lottery system.