lmagna

Nice 

That looks awesome!

The wake looks pretty convincing to my eye.

Well, maybe I'm not finished.  I am experimenting with water techniques (styrofoam, gels, and cotton)  and decided to start building a shadow box display for my father's burial flag and Navy certifications and commendations.
 
Here are some recent pics of my progress.
 


Scott
 

I also completed a 1/700 CV2 Lexington this year, and for Christmas, received a 1/700 CV16 in WW2.  So now my goal is to have a model of all the ships called Lexington. Here is a pic of all three.
Scott

Its been almost four years ago and I forgot about this build log.  I did finish the Lex and hopefully get a display cabinet built in the future for it and all my Dad's certificates and burial flag.  Here are the completed pictures.  I hope I can say that I actually completed my first build log. 
 

I though pilots had to have 20/20 uncorrected vision to fly !  What happened ? Old age ? 

I got distance glasses from the doc and readers for the modeling/computer/reading stuff. Plus an Optivisor and some intense lighting for modeling. More light is key for me.

Thanks Craig,  with any luck the parts will  be sent. The original parcel took eleven  days to get here from Japan.  In the meantime  I have started to paint the other cockpit parts, I'm using Tamiya cockpit green as my order of Mr color paints not turned up  yet and I can get Tamiya paints locally. Checked it on a conversion chart and it supposed to match, but I don't think it will matter as long as all the other parts requiring this colour are done the same. I'll  get some photos on tomorrow 
Cheers 

Oh wow...didn't see this. What a disappointment. Hope Hasegawa comes through for you with flying colors.

Your Hasegawa Dauntless will look great right out of the box. Can't beat Hasegawa and Tamiya models for a positive out of the box experience.
Looking forward to your progress. Love the tri color scheme as well.

I need to quit stopping in here Craig
Every time I do it seems to thin my wallet a little more. My wife is beginning to think I have a mistress! All of these high tek models and after market stuff seem to require a lot of high tek stuff to make the best use of them!

So began to check the parts for the cockpit and was going to paint but have noticed that two sprues of parts are missing,🤔🤔  mainly cockpit pieces and the whole of the undercarriage,  wheels etc... its brought the build to a halt until I can obtain the missing bits.😡 E-mail winging its way to Hasegawa as I write!!!

Mike, the applicability of acrylic glue is going to vary on particular jobs depending on the specific parts (as you referenced) as well as the experience the individual has in using acrylic glue. Like a lot of other things, we get better at it with time and practice. One thing for sure, you don't use it exactly the same as you would use CA, as with CA, you're trying to use as little of it as possible to avoid a big mess. With acrylic glue, you can use more of it and clean it all up later with a wet paint brush before the glue completely dries. I find acrylic glue is particularly well suited for ship railings. Sometimes the difficulty comes from trying to use too large of a section of railing at a time. I often cut my railings into smaller sections and find it makes working with it much easier. I cut the railing to the length I want at a vertical post, then use a smidgen of overlap of the rails on the subsequent vertical post to mate them together. When using it, don't be afraid to use a larger drop of it where the photo etch is to be attached as it will be very easy to clean up later. 
A good way to get practice is to use scrap pieces of railing and just glue them down on a piece of sheet styrene plastic. The little blobs of glue you put down will be enough to hold the railing in a vertical position until it starts to get tacky and once tacky use your wet paint brush to clean up the excess glue around your posts.

Craig, how do you find the Gator Glue on very tiny parts, or parts that have a tiny contact point?  I tried using it on my current 1/700 destroyer build where the PE is ridiculously tiny, and had trouble getting it to work with attaching things like railings where the contact point is smaller than the head of a pin  
 
I might try it again.  I've been using CA but CA dries so fast.  The thin is way too quick for models I think.  The medium is better set-time wise, but I find you have to smear it before putting it on a part or it's too thick.  Then again, this is my experience with 1/700 scale which is a good scale to torture yourself and ruin your eyesight with 😳

The Avenger model comes with a set of bi-fold bomb bay doors. The doors are enhanced with a fully photo etch lined inner door detail provided stock in the kit.

 
Often, modelers ask what type of glue to use for photo etch. While CA glue has it's place in the scheme of things, my personal favorite most of the time is acrylic glue. Why? *The slower drying time gives plenty of latitude for positioning the part without it inadvertently adhering too soon. *It dries completely clear with no fogging. *It dries very thin without a buildup. *It cleans up with water. *It's a more flexible bond, not brittle like CA. I can easily clean up any excess glue with a paint brush wetted with water to eliminate any sign of the glue on the finished model.

 
Another question modelers often ask, what is the best primer for photo etch? My choice is Mr Metal Primer. *It is a solvent based primer, and completely transparent. *It adheres very well to photo etch and mostly eliminates the chance of the finished paint color peeling away from the photo etch. *It can be brushed onto delicate photo etch parts and is self leveling. *Dries quickly. *Since it has no color pigments, it will not obliterate the fine surface details that photo etch is meant to provide.

 
The kit provides pre shaped bomb bay hinges for the doors to attach in a bi-fold fashion.
 

Your'e a braver man than I Tom E. When I took the same plunge a few months ago, all I thought I could justify buying at the beginning stage was a $30 gun/pump. The gun looks like the clone in your first picture, but the pump is a tiny thing that sits on the bench, or in my case the table.  So far it is doing everything asked of it But I am probably not experienced enough to strain it's probable limited abilities. I will be certain to hang out here and learn . 

Your'e a braver man than I Tom E. When I took the same plunge a few months ago, all I thought I could justify buying at the beginning stage was a $30 gun/pump. The gun looks like the clone in your first picture, but the pump is a tiny thing that sits on the bench, or in my case the table.  So far it is doing everything asked of it But I am probably not experienced enough to strain it's probable limited abilities. I will be certain to hang out here and learn . 

Yeah one of those necessities of life after 65! I finally got a new set this last year, after something like seven or ten years or something, and I HATE them. I started hating them when the lady told me how much they were going to cost, and it has been going on ever since. They function OK I suppose. I only really need them for reading comfortably. I can even do that OK without them but it tires me out long before I get the stuff read that I want. Not that good for TV and I just take them off altogether on the rare trips to the movies. My wife is the TV person and cannot function without it on. I could live just fine without even owning one! But books, and now to include electronic books, that is a different matter. I have them stuffed in unbelievable places. I always wanted a real library like rich houses have in the Victorian movies, where you could go to the proper shelf and pull out the perfect book for the subject you were interested in at that moment.

Looking like things are moving along Mark. I have heard the same as OC. Apply a gloss coat then decals using Micro Sol & Microset. Then clear coat either dull or gloss and then your final dull or satin coat. BUT I am fairly certain those instructions were intended for people using an airbrush. I really hope Craig has some answers for you.
 
I think I solved my problem with my Huey interior. All it took was more money.  I hope you have better luck. 

Being cursed with four eyes, aka nearsightedness, since the 3rd grade,  as presbyopia set in with advancing age, I find I can cheat by either removing my glasses completely or just pull them down my nose a bit and look over the rims while bringing the  book a liitle closer to my face.  I do have so called reading glasses and I did try bifocals but cheating is far simpler. And I don't have to play trombone either !  

Yes one with the ladder on the track so you could get along the top shelves, and sit in the wing back chair to read the chosen tome

Hi Denis
 
Just found your build log for the Agilis. Wanted to follow along to learn a thing or three. There are more than a few wooden ship models in my stash, but it's outside the sphere of my comfort zone. I'm a neophyte wood ship modeler. Maybe following some guys who are experts such as you and JCT will give me the confidence boost I need to start one of my own.

it wasn't easy........that plywood was hard to sand.  I wonder where to get sheet plywood like they use to make kits.......the plywood seems to sand so much better.  the bulwarks are just about covered now.......there about 1/16 gap at the deck platform.  if I had thought ahead with that stern bulkhead I made,  I wouldn't have cut the deck area out of it..........but with the curvature at the transom,  it worked out.  before I go too far with the planking though,  I want to make the mast pots.........just boxes for when the masts are fitted in place.  it will take a lot of guesswork out of that particular step.
 
it funny you say that.........there are kits that make provision for the holds,  some even supply parts for a lower deck.   since the Clotilda is a schooner,  it makes for a likely choice.  I haven't done much digging to see if any of the other listed ships have any info or history.   I guess if we had the same foresight,  we could have done it     I took care of the starboard side problem I mentioned.  the cap rail will cover a lot if sin 

hey there Tom...welcome to the fold    I have the same B 25J kit........did 2 sets of decals come in yours?   both versions are on the sheet,  so if yours didn't,  then I got a boon!  also,  did your kit come with 2 clear sprues of clear parts?  oh.....never mind.......I just check it and saw that the nose glass is different.......ya,  for the two versions   it's a good looking kit......just the right scale too.  it's too bad I've slated another B 17 1:72 scale to be next.......I'd join you     almost finished with the Arizona {I'll look forward seeing what you do with her}.
 
great airbrushes!  I use siphon feed airbrushes.........just do a few tests...once you get the feel,  you'll be hooked      following along..enjoy!