lmagna

You can see the real aircraft flying every weeked at Olde Rhinebeck Aerodrome

Look forward to your build, Doc. I'm also an aviation enthusiast and my favorite TV show is Airplane Disasters (go figure). I'm sure you're familiar with Tom's YouTube videos on building airplane models like yours but for others check this one out. It's ingenious.
 
 

My oldest brother was co owner of a small airfield in a rural Florida area. They had two Citabrias that were fully aerobatic. Big brother took me for some great aerobatic flying sessions and gave me lots of stick time. Man, those were some fun days in the 60's and early 70's.
But one of the most fun rides ever was in an aerobatic sail plane. Back in those days, it was relatively cheap to acquire a pilot's license and there were affordable aircraft to be had. Not so much today. 

I'm not THAT old! Besides you didn't ASK for gloss red!!

That is one way to hide a Walrus scout plane. They will NEVER look for it there!
 
It is interesting, and kind of sad, that they didn't include more below decks detailing in the kit to work with.

All those details make one wonder what it was like being stationed on the Graf. She only had a custodial crew of forty according to some information. One would think it would be like wandering a ghost ship. 

I copy and save the image from where I got it,  although I have scanned stencils and stuff.  I do believe though that photo shop has a much better color spectrum to work with.  if I knew better how to adjust the values on colors,  I'd likely have a better time with this.  the everyday colors aren't much of a problem.....it's the in between colors,  like pastels,  that are hard to deal with.    

sorry for the delay in my return..........had a big supper.......feel'in fat,  took a snooze on the couch.   continuing with what I was say'in......the reason I mention altering the assembly of the back wall,  is that the amount the cab is off at the rear wall,  is less that how much it's off at the front wall.   you will gain at least 1/8 of an inch,  but you will still need to cut back on that right side third step to cure the rest of the short coming.   I find that those two slots for the walkways are tooled too much.   in picture three,  note where the side walls sit........at the inner edge of the walkway tabs.   this means that those slots should only be that deep,  judging how the side walls run along the walkway from the front,  to the back.  the protrusion of the walkway looks about 1/16,  running parallel along the cab walls.

I went ahead and made those slots larger......now I need to fill them in somehow,  or there will be square holes there.  so....only as deep as the wall's thickness is required.   the half circle at the front wall has been adjusted as well.......I did that when I went to slide it in place earlier.   material needs to be removed at both sides where they meet the walkways......it seems more oval,  than circular.  trim a little at a time equally,  until it mates with the walkways....there still will be a gap......can't do anything about it,  unless you want to try filling it in.  trimming the base of the front wall will cause mismatching with the side walls.......figured I'd warn ya ahead of time about that pitfall.   filling it in seems the only remedy.....but I'm not going to worry about it....    I thought back........we all do in cases like this.........to see if we might have goofed up somewhere.   the walkways fit in their slots,  the floor fits flush along the inner edges of the walkways,  the Johnson bar is actually longer that the cab floor {where it locates}.......nope,  I don't believe there are mistakes in these areas.   ....hate it when stuff like this happens.  the roof is in two parts......the framing and the roof itself.   to judge if I had made some goof up with the cab,  I dry fitted the roof frame to see how it fit.

it sits inside the cab opening at the top...... the rear roof molding mates with the side moldings and the fit is pretty good.  note where the beam at the rear wall sits......outside the wall.   assembling the back wall flush with the side edges,  this beam will then be on the inside of the back wall.   again,  it's all the matter of that 1/8 of an inch.  by making this back wall adjustment,  I do believe you'll be saving yourself from doing what I'm having to do.
     the step is trimmed back.......

here is a view of the Johnson bar and the tab at the end of the walkway....the two causing the headaches....

after trimming the step until it fit,  there is still a short coming with the two 'L' tabs on the walkway,  where the front wall locates.   the back wall adjustment would have cured this.......it would fit fine.   but I chose to remove part of the 'L' and made it an 'I'

the outcome is a good one.......the cab fits now.   there is only a sliver gap at the base of the back wall......mainly due to slight warpage of the walkways,  which can be easily taken care of after the cab is firmly cemented into place.  I may remove the rest of those front tabs,  now that I know how the cab orients on the walkways.

the back wall will now butt up against the floor.......note the gap at the walkway tabs.  sorry if I sound like a broken record,  but I can't stress this stuff enough......if you want a good fit,  this is one of the problems you'll be dealing with.

it's not mated...but it will press into place........you can see how the side wall runs along the walkway.....evenly.   again......if you flush fit the back wall,  you can get away from altering the tabs at the front.

the left side fits fine.   you can see what looks like gussets at the ends of each step.  when I spoke about fitting the Johnson bar,  one of these is what it has to fit over.  even then,  it is too long for the area it fits in......strange it sticks out like this.  it is what it is   

an overhead view showing the typical layout.   I'll have to check and see what the interior color should be.  just glad all this is over and the cab sits squarely,  enclosing the cab area.

It is always a pleasure to come and visit here. And enjoy your beautiful and realistic paintings.
Great work!!

Hi Shipscat,
I am British and also an ex serviceman so I reckon I can make a one line comment if I wish. And what I said is in the main true. Incompetent General Staff Officers had much to do with the many debacles including Gallipoli in WW 1. Donkeys adequately sums many of them up. 
 
My apologies to Vegaskip for posting this in his  thread.
 
Dave 

Funny all those experts ...

I remember when the Israelis agreed to return the Sinai to Egypt several analysts likened it to the sea in that it could be controlled by fleets of tanks without having to actually garrison it with boots on the ground.  The US Navy’s great strategic writer Captain Mahan would have approved.
 
Gallipoli seems to be an example of a concept sound in strategy but ahead of its time as the technology did not exist to allow it to work-  ships’ boats instead of landing craft, and especially inadequate communications to allow effective command and control.  I just read the first volume of Admiral Turner’s biography and even with voice radio, the US Navy badly underestimated communication requirements for early WW 2 amphibious landings.  Like we did with the Japanese prior to WW2 the Turks were badly underrated as a competent, tough fighting force.  In my opinion, once the initial assaults failed and the fighting settled into the same trench warfare as the Western Front, the troops should have been withdrawn sooner rather than later.
 
Roger

Oh it is ALWAYS interesting, Denis ! 

thanks for look'in and the kind comments.......should have an update on this one soon    I thought that too Mark.......this isn't a street rod.   likely,  I won't add the horn,  but it is funny that they supply one.   glad to have you aboard Ken and Jack...I'll try and make it interesting

Thank you for all the comments and "Likes"  .
 
The first part of the engine in the instructions is the Supercharger. I've nearly completed it below :

 
These parts took me a while to cut. So far I've come across four similar ones, all turned out fine with no accidents despite some of them being only 0.35mm wide :

  
The supercharger finished :


 
I reinforced the engine block with some 0.5mm card :

 
Another tricky piece :

 
The cylinder heads took quite a bit of work due to the "bumps" on the sides :

 
The oil pan :


 
Danny

try Miniature flags, miniature table flags, miniature desk flags, miniature stick flags, little flags, toothpick flags, miniature world flags, miniature state flags

there is a major snafu with the cab it seems.........it doesn't fit correctly.   I was going to paint,  but figured I'd see how it would go together.   the dry fit was fine......until I got to the back wall.   the two ears that stick out at the ends of both walkways don't fit in the slots.....the second is the Johnson bar.   it sticks out of the cab too far.   the back wall is cut into steps from the floor......the second step,  where the bar juts out,  hits the third step and impedes it from going in place.   so,  I though to assemble the front and the sides together.



note the tab by the left seat......there is one on the right side as well.  they appear to be pushing the side walls away from where they should locate.
     there are the two 'L' shaped tabs on the walkways that are the locators for the front wall.   note that both walls stop at the end of those walkway tabs....this is good.  the problem lies with the back wall.   figuring that the tabs on the walls are for the back wall to locate......I cemented the back wall in place.

now.....to cement the Johnson bar into place,  there is a slot that the edge of the seat column fit into.  this put the end of the bar jutting outside of the cab.  

the walls stop just above the slots provided for the walkway tabs....these need to be enlarged.   the third step on the right side needs to be partially removed,  but done so the notching is square.   without doing this,  the entire box will be off by quite a bit.


what I did here to fit the cab walls,  was enlarge the two slots and remove part of the third stepping on the right side.  this is the lesser of my two evils,  since I really don't want to damage anything.   in hindsight,  the back wall can be fitted flush along the edge of the side walls,  the roof line flush with the side wall edges,  with the bottom of the walls flush with the slots for the walkways.
 
I'll be back...........

How are you importing, Denis?  If using a scanner, spray a sample color onto a piece of scrap plastic or aluminum foil. When you scan, you have the color you need.  Many paint programs let you pick a color from the image and use it for "touch up" or even area "fill".

DAn,
 
When I look at the picture, they are all crooked, so I wouldn't worry to much. You are recreating reality ... looks good, like the mesh

Accounts of various ships going down do mention that the rafts came off.  However, they were usually pulled under (along crewmen too close the ship) and were pulled under by the "suction" of the ship going under the surface.  I suspect that when the order to abandon ship was given (if there was time) jumping off and swimming as far away as you could get would be the priority.     As for swimming, I don't know if the army did teach swimming in boot camp like the Navy and Marines did..  The Army Air Corp air crews (fighter and bomber) did though.

Whimp  
You can CA after you've made the scarf joint. Thin CA is pulled inbetween the parts
 
Suggestions:
Obsolete holes
If you need to fill the holes, take an oversized styrene solid rod, taper the end sanding it, glue it in, and cut it of level with the deck. gollup of paint ... done 
Missing holes
If you need to add stanchions where you can't reach, take off the bottom part of the stanchion (which goes into the deck) make and shape your railing, assertaining the cut off stanchions are in the spot where you can't drill, form the railing and have that part slightly lowered so when you mount the railing the stanchions are push up. You can than glue them to the deck ... 

Looking good, Steve.  Are you sure you want to risk all this detail work and put it in a lake?   I'd be seriously nervous myself.

Me too!  Man, you are a prolific builder, Denis ! 

Nicely done, Denis. I'll be following also.
 
The wheels do look good.

Horn?  I don't recall horns being on those Super Stocks.... but then again, today has been one  of the those days where I've been lucky to remember my own name.