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king derelict

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Everything posted by king derelict

  1. Hi Tony I had the bed off the machine when I changed the levelling springs and forgot to look at the heater element. The sensor is in the centre so its entirely possible that the corners are cooler. The bed is magnetic so steel and should conduct reasonably well. I'm tending let the bed soak for a while after the panel tells me it has reached temperature to try to let it even out. Part of my voodoo developing to achieve a good print. I may be wrong but I think this project is challenging the printer a bit. I think printing small stuff in the centre of the bed is comparatively easy but working at the edges requires a greater levelling accuracy and tighter control in retaining it. Its been a steep learning curve but I'm hoping I am learning where the sensitivity is and how to deal with it. I think I am doing better not using the paper feeler gauge but using a test print and tweaking the screws relative to teh results. Thanks for the interest Alan
  2. The doors look great. The dust really adds depth to the timber and looks like honest farmyard muck. Does it stay in place on its own or do you have to seal it? Thanks Alan
  3. This is still in progress. With the end of the spool of filament approaching I moved to printing the small hull sections of #9 and then I was able to squeeze four of the hull section connectors out of the remaining filament. The good news for me was that all these pieces were produced without making any alterations to the bed level screws. I changed spools and started hull section #6 and got the first layers down without problem but for some reason the left front edge of the brim lifted from the bed and distorted the upper section of the print. I abandoned the print, wiped down the bed with alcohol and started a new print. We are two hours in and it looks good. We will find out in 27 hours time! Now that we are clear of things like prop shafts and rudder posts I have turned the support structure elements off in the slicer. Thanks for checking in Alan
  4. That sounds like a great day out. The sea was churned and silty on this side today with very poor visibility Alan
  5. There seems to be quite a range of I Love kits, Armour as well as Ships and prices for 1/350 ships up at $300. The Hood seems to be an especially good deal. Alan
  6. The Geisenau build progresses but it isn't always very visible as I spend hours attaching what seems to be a small number of tiny PE parts. The structures are growing up though and ladders and railings are being added. Really starting to show off the sleek lines of this ship A lot of railings in my future this week. Touching up of the light grey will have to wait until new paint arrives next week. I took the opportunity of ordering a bottle of the Mig One Shot black primer reccommended by Craig (CDW) while I was placing an order. It will probably get its debut on the Hood - as we all wait for our Hood kit to drop on the mat. Thanks for looking Alan
  7. Craig Thanks for the comments. This is a much bigger project than Penelope but I'm enjoying immensely. I think there are parts top build either Geisenau or Scharnhorst in the box but I haven't worked out which bits will be left at the end. I think some of the secondary guns may be different calibre. I have some plastic barrels which are not used. Alan
  8. Thank you OC. That's very kind. I'm enjoying it a lot. The Hood is going to be really interesting. The kit should be here soon I think. I see it advertised as arriving at US stores soon. Alan
  9. Back in Tiny World today! With the wooden decks installed I built up some of the lower superstructure so I have a platform to add the details. There are also a lot of PE items like ladders that cross down onto the main decks and I think the railings are easier to fit and less susceptible to hanlding damage; we shall see. I fitted the inclined ladders from the derricks down to the main deck. I had trouble with the earlier inclined ladders that thread down through openings in the deck and this deck has the wooden layer too. It belatedly occurred to me that it would be simpler to thread the top of the ladder up from below and indeed it was. I see the railing at the intermediate landing needs a tweak in the morning. Lots more PE now around all the structures. Its going to start getting a bit delicate. I built the first of the boat racks seen below in progress. It is very fragile and i felt I had used up my breath control and fine motor skills for the day and left the second one for tomorrow. It does look nice though and in spite of the fiddly nature of the PE details I really enjoy working with it because I like the way the detail pops on the model. Thanks for looking Alan
  10. I always seem to get caught up in other stuff on Saturdays but I did manage to sneak off to the work table and start adding the wooden deck. The deck is by Flyhawk and is a very nice fit so far. I got the main decks installed and started on some of the minor pieces. The colour is quite subdued so I don't think I will weather it; it already has a slight grey to the colour and looks worn. It may be thin enough to be taking some colour from the grey plastic below it. Alan
  11. The later attempt at hull section #8 with a slower initial speed completed yesterday afternoon with a good result. The build supports can be seen in the photo and were easily removed. However the slicer elected to put a support right down the ridder post and fiddling with the angle at which a support is invoked failed to remove it so I let it print. It may prove interesting to remove but that's what drills are for if necessary. Today I was able to print the first part of the stern without any adjustments to the bed which confirms my private theory that smaller prints nearer the centre of the bed are less susceptible to levelling problems. The second part of the stern has begun, also without any adjustments prior to print and the first spool of filament is nearing its end. Three more large hull sections to complete but today has been almost restful as the printer works well within its abilities (and mine) Thanks to checking in Alan
  12. Thanks Yves, I was wondering bout temperature variability across the bed. I'm tending to let the bed soak in preheat for a while before starting a print to try to ensure an even temperature across the bed. I've ordered the flexible magnetic bed print surface as recommended by Craig Alan
  13. It looks great. Very natural weathering. What a recovery! I think its a required skill to be able to recover from the unexpected. Alan
  14. This morning the completed hull section #7 was waiting for me. I launched the print of hull section #8 and was disappointed to find that the level had shifted and the print at the front right corner was not sticking because the nozzle was too far from the bed. It took eight or nine attempts before a good looking start was achieved. Unfortunately after a couple of hours I noticed that the right side of the print was deformed and raised up from the bed. I could see light under the bowed section so it wasn't going to be rectified by a bit of putty so I stopped the print and restarted it with a slower initial speed. The support piece which was printing in the middle of the bed was perfect which confirms my thoughts that the level accuracy is more acute out at the edges of the bed. I haven't developed a theory on why the right side got deformed other than it looks like the brim was lifting from the bed and resulted in warping. The learning curve remains at quite a gradient. Alan
  15. Thanks Yves I will look at that. I feel like I shouldn't get leveling issues from one print to the next. There has to be some flex or freedom somewhere that can be locked down. Alan
  16. OC I completely agree with you. The enjoyment is seeing the model come together and feeling good about how it looks as each stage is worked on. This has been a bit overwhelming to start with just because its so big but I am enjoying taking each element and working on it and I really don't worry about when it will be completed. Its the journey and not the destination. I still get a big kick from seeing a nicely folded piece of PE installed and thinking how good it looks. As you say then it gets stuck in a display case and I'm finding it a challenge to find space for them. This build has taught me a lot about working on bigger models and I think I will be more confident with the Hood and Prince of Wales
  17. I think the ant died of boredom waiting for the print to finish. I missed the ant in the photos; we seem to be finding one or two a day at present. The hot and wet days I suppose. The pest guy sprayed and they are turning up dead now and hopefully will go away. Alan
  18. Thank you for the kind words of support OC. There have been a few moments when I have considered packing it all up and putting it in the back of the cupboard. I think I understand how to correct the bed when it is out of level but I still don't understand why it persists in going out of level. More research and trials ahead Alan
  19. Thank you OC. Sometimes it feels like I'm flailing around in this build without achieving much; there is just so much to this kit. Huge parts count, wooden decks, lots of PE and a real exercise in working out the build sequence. Anyway its supposed to be fun not a time and motion study. Alan
  20. Thanks Mark He has created similar works for Ligny and Quatre Bras on the same website. Well worth a look in an idle moment. Alan
  21. He lives in Bennos Figures Forum Benno's Figures Forum • Antietam 17th September 1862 (bennosfiguresforum.com) I hope its OK to provide the link Alan
  22. Progress continues but at the speed of printing. Adding the supports increased the build time so we are still working away on hull section 7. As you can see it will be a day and a half marathon when completed. The support structure for the prop tunnel finishes at the dotted line about halfway up and the tunnel itself is the upper section Thanks for looking Alan
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