king derelict

Thanks for the advice Craig The treated glass that comes with the V2 has a smooth side so I am thinking of flipping it and trying it. Who knows I may have a sticking problem. I took your advice and bought the magnetic pad you suggested. Many Thanks. I would really like to get the reliability of printing improved. Its spoiling the fun at the moment. Thanks again Alan

Hi Mark Its set by screws tensioned by springs, one at each corner. The springs feel quite weak and there is quite a lot of backlash so screw a quarter turn to close the gap and it takes nearly a turn to get back to where you were. This may be the quality variation I mentioned. Researching on line suggests this can be a problem area for levelling so I have sent off for a set of springs with a higher stiffness. That supposedly improves repeatability and seems reasonable to me so I made the $6 investment. Thanks Alan

Hi everyone I have had a log term interest in the Flower Class corvettes; ever since first reading the Cruel Sea as a teenager. I have also had a growing interest in 3D printers. Seeing Yves log start building a Flower Class corvette using the Creality Ender 3 printer seemed to bring it all together so I ordered a printer, downloaded the Bensworx virtual kit, bought some filament and set off on the adventure seeing myself knocking out flawless parts one after the other. Unfortunately it hasn't quite gone like that. I think I have the printer assembled correctly but getting a print is proving problematical. I got a good test print from the Creality files first shot and then started the hull sections of the corvette. This will probably be a slow log because of the physical time to print each piece and then the time taken trying to work through the failures to get a good result. I hope the log might show the problems of someone perhaps less skilled trying to use a 3D printer to make this model and with luck maybe learn some techniques and produce a model. I have two younger colleagues who both have Creality Ender 3 / Pro printers and their results are also mixed. They are both skilled modeller and artificers, one a precision machinist working on racing motorcycles so they are not completely hammer thumbed but still do not have predictable results with failure to get the print to stick being a frequent problem. It seems that there is a lot to learn. So to the corvette. I made nine attempts to get the first hull section to print without success. In each case the initial layers failed to adhere to the build plate and the result was a mess of string. I tried a variety of increasing base temperatures, higher nozzle temperatures and slower build speed. I level and clean the base plate between attempts and I let the pre heat temperatures have time to soak up the base plate. Eventually I added a brim and with a slow initial speed I was able to get a decent print although it leaves me with the need to cut away the brim carefully to get a clean interface with the next section. Initial attempts to slice the file for hull section 2 wouldn't allow a skirt or a brim to be added; I assume because the size of the print does not have enough space around it to allow the extra area. I made fourteen attempts to print the hull section all resulting in failed bed adhesion. The bed was levelled between attempts and it is a little disturbing that it is necessary to adjust between attempts rather than just check. Somehow the bed drifts out of level after some very limited running and that may be the problem in essence. Each attempt was run with changes to print speed (which seemed to help) down to 20%, nozzle temperature up to 215C (which didn't) and bed temperature up to 70C which may have helped a little. Within three passes the nozzle was dragging a mess of detached plastic around and the print was stopped. I went back to Cura and found there was enough room on the bed to allow a 4cm brim (default 10) and this is creating a print as I write. I started the print with a speed of 30% of file speed and then returned it to 100% after the brim was complete, This seems to be progressing. I think Hull section 3 is a larger section so it may not allow any brim in which case another solution will have to be found. I have some glue sticks ordered that may help I am going to try using shim stock instead of paper for the levelling I am thinking of installing the spare nozzle in case the nozzle is not feeding a consistent filament to the bed I am going to order a new glass plate and more nozzles from Creality I have heard some suggestions of quality variation in the manufacture so the final thought may be to decide how badly I want to complete this project and buy another machine and discard this one as unusable. The changes in level settings after only a few passes of the print doesn't seem to be an indication of consistent quality and I think Yves has noted he hasn't had to change his since initial levelling. Thanks for looking in and I welcome any comments and advice as this (hopefully) progresses. It looks like being an interesting journey Alan Alan

Thank you Yves It is a continuing struggle. After fourteen abortive attempts to print the second hull section I added a small brim (there isn't enough space on the plate for a full one) and that is currently printing. I hope to be able to continue this project although the success rate is making me think of just giving it up. I would like to understand why our results are so different with the same machines and same files. I am thinking of starting my own build log to note the experiences of the "less gifted" to clear my rubbish from your build log if that is acceptable to everyone. If you have time I would very much welcome your input there because I have a lot to learn. Before I go I have a couple of non machine questions about the files. When I imported the Hull #2 stl file into Cura I got model error messages. Did you get the same thing and just ignore them or fix them somehow? Your photo shows hull section 2 printing with a skirt I think. When I tried to do that it wouldn't slice the model; I assume because there wasn't enough room on the plate for the skirt? How did you do that? Sorry for the detours to your log. I am solidly in awe of your progress. Alan

It all looks great OC. I am so impressed with how the exposed brickwork looks. It looks like the model is made with individual bricks. Reading the updates on this build is one of teh highlights of my day. Alan

Hi Craig Many thanks for your advice. I'm levelling between attempts and trying it both hot and cold. I was initially aiming for a good level of friction between the paper and the nozzle but I was worrying I was too close and was bulldozing the filament off the plate. I have been aiming now for a light rub between the nozzle and paper. I think you are right about the cooling. Maybe the house temperature (76F) is too cold and I should try a print in the garage which is a balmy 85F. I have upped both the nozzle temperature and the bed temperature and dialed the print speed down for the first layers to try to avoid the nozzle dragging the plastic off the plate. A thought just occurred to me - could teh nozzle be partly clogged and the plastic is not extruding thickly enough Thanks again and once again sorry Yves. Alan

Alan I have the opposite problem. The centre is tight when the corners are set. 😄 Alan

Hi Yves Very many thanks for taking the time to respond so fully. I have been a keen follower of your posts so some of your suggestions have already been adopted. 1 - I'm levelling with a sheet of paper that is 0.004 inches thick. Today I used the sheet you recommended (0.0035 inches thick). I level between each attempt both hot and cold to get a light drag on the paper. I may try to use a 0.004 inch piece of shim stock as being less of a variable. 2 - I clean the bed between each attempt with alcohol and let it dry 3 - I actually increased the bed temperature to 65 and I let it soak for ten minutes after reaching preheat because I assume although the sensor may have reached temperature the glass is lagging 4 - I'm using grey Overture filament 5 - -I check the spool drag especially in the initial layers 6 - I stripped and rebuilt the printer using the tips in Vlads video 7 - sticking parts are not a problem 😄 I added a brim to the bow section of the hull and got a successful print. Using a brim on the remaining sections is a problem because of the size of the print. I have just abandoned the ninth attempt to print the second hull section. I am thinking of trying stick glue and a lower bed temperature, buying a new glass bed and nozzles from Creality. Thanks again for your advice and my apologies for hijacking your thread. Its frustrating that your printing at a high success rate out of the box and I'm at about one in ten and dropping. As I said you have the masterful touch. Alan

Yves You are working masterfully on this. I set up my newCreality printer and downloaded the Flower corvette files and so far have failed to print anything. Eight attempts failed to adhere to the bed and either created a ball of spaghetti as the filament detached or quickly deformed the hull section as part of the print moved on the bed. I have gone to using a brim around the part which may give me dimensional issues later but that has stuck to the bed at last but then nine hours into the print the filament snapped; looks like an air bubble in the filament. Attempt number ten is three hours in and we shall see what happens. 😄 Thanks for the inspiration to try this Alan

Not a lot of time to work on the Geisenau today but I did manage to finish the PE on the funnel. A lot of time studying the illustrations to get the correct positioning of the small platforms. I moved onto another small assembly which will build up the catapult. The folder made a nice job of the catapult and the tiny pully wheels were added. I think I need a PE break, get the brass barrels fitted and get some primer sprayed. Thanks for looking Alan

Thanks for the kind words OC. This kit is so big I am sort of losing my place in it a bit. It is all so nicely made that it is still highly enjoyable and I expect at some point its all going to make sense and go together Alan

Lou That is the set up I have. I didn't want to invest a lot of money in an expensive set up if it turned out that I wasn't going to be able to use it well. I have had it a year now and it still seems to work well and cleans easily. My skill level is still below the ability of the airbrush so I plan to continue to use it. The compressor is reliable and has a water trap and pressure gauge. My only issue is the tiny o seal on the nozzle got chewed up after removing and replacing too many times during cleaning and I cannot find a replacement. I bought a new nozzle for $5 which had an o seal attached and I try not to remove the nozzle for every cleaning now Alan

That must have done wonders for the heart rate. She looks beautiful. The details are very impressive. A spectacular model Alan

Absolutely spectacular Alan

The tank smooths out any pressure ripples from the compressor so it's a good thing. I got my first airbrush a year ago and it is a cheaper model but has been reliable. I practiced with water and then paint on scrap plastic. It didn't take long to be able to put a basic, even cost on a model and even that looks much better than hand painting. An early lesson was keeping the airbrush really clean to get good results. I'm still learning how to dilute paints and mix them. I have only used acrylic paint so far. I'm trying to work up the courage to try lacquer etc. I also have to learn finer techniques. I'm a long way from Craig and Greg skill level but I'm getting results I'm happy with. It's definitely worth getting one for getting a good finish on all that incoming PE. This is just the novice perspective so please disregard if it conflicts with advice from the experienced users. Alan

It has been a day in small world today. Instead of yesterdays plan I decided to tackle the radar array which is made of three pieces of PE two of which have some folds that present a bit of a challenge. With the folding tool it went quite well and was attached to the sub assembly. I stayed with the PE and worked around the funnel with a lot of very fine PE which was an exercise in breath control. Slow progress with tea breaks at frequent intervals but the PE fret is beginning to show some gaps. Still quite a lot to add in this area but at least these are steel decks so the wooden deck is not an issue. Thanks for looking Alan

I need to learn to keep a cleaner work table. I spend far too much time moving stuff around trying to find the post ping PE or part. Someehow the tools, glues. files creep back. Alan

Thank you for the kind comments Mike. I borrowed a lot of your PE tool information and tips and its helped a lot. The folding tool really neatens up anything that has long folds and makes the PE look good. I was quite pleased with todays radar array done that way today. I have moved to finer tweezers and the crossover type to hold the PE but I dread the ping and the disappearing fleck of brass. The hand held vacuum recovers some but rarely the vital stuff. I use the wax pencils but I find them a bit clumsy in tight places and hard to see the orientation of a small piece. I have been using a cocktail stick with the end rubbed lightly in a blob of beeswax. That seems to allow much finer control and positioning. A dressmaking pin can be used in the same way as well. The cat hairs are optional Alan

Thank you Roger, I'm glad you commented, definitely not a hijack to the log. I do think Flyhawk have really made working at 1/700 scale to be more rewarding because of all the detail that is on the basic plastic. With railings and possibly brass barrels the kits look great without further details. If they ever create a 1/350 kit it could be an impressive thing. I might have to rethink staying with 1/700 in that case. I hope you enjoy the build. I'm not sure I am good enough to offer advice but I'm enjoying working through the build and the mammoth quantity of parts. All teh information is there but I find it a challenge to cross reference the PE build information with the main assembly. Even copying and marking up the sheets hasn't completely addressed the problem. Alan

Hi Bill. I like the Flyhawk kits a lot. The detail is amazing and the range of subjects is good. This one is the biggest kit I have attempted and working out a sequence through the build that allows painting, wooden deck installation, PE additions and handling the delicate built up parts keeps me thinking hard. I really enjoy it. I have the Prince Of Wales somewhere in transit. Alan

Looking very nice indeed. Its going to look spectacular on a base with the troops around it. Alan

Slow progress today. I needed to rearrange the work space so I have a bit more room to lay out all the Geisenau parts and accomodate a tool chest within easy reach. I finished the PE railings on the upper part of the superstructure I started on the next section, installing the PE rails; very delicate and its not perfect but further fiddling was probably going to damage the very thin PE sections. It is another good exercise in what was referred to in my profession as "situational awareness". In this case trying not to put my fingers where I had just installed the PE. At this point I realised I was in danger of making it very hard to install the wooden deck onto these upper deck elements. I think I need to get painting before building up anything else. I am planning to do some basic masking to keep the paint off the wooden deck areas thinking it might stick to the bare plastic better than the paint. I have no idea if that is a correct assumption. I'll add the brass barrels to the secondary turrets and then get the airbrush out Alan

Thank you OC. I'm still scared of the PE but I do a little at a time and when it is on it looks so nice; especially the railings. They really dress the ship up. I'm much happier using the Gators Grip glue. It gives a lot more time to finally locate a piece properly and it sets with a bit of flexibility so a bump later doesn't knock the part off as easily as when glued with CA. I've also found the rolling and bending tools helped me get a cleaner finish with the bigger bits of PE Alan

Craig She looks beautiful. The details are so clear and well defined. Alan

I made a little progress today. I'm still studying the parts and instructions to try to determine the most sensible subassemblies to build and paint. Also the ways to minimise handling damage as the delicate stuff goes on - there is a lot of it. So time goes by without apparent progress. It is still quite a daunting kit for me. There are so many parts that locating the piece I want is an exercise on its own. ONe sprue has 108 parts on it! I started the bridge structure and then began the descent into madness as the PE is folded and added. Threading the PE inclined ladder down to the lower platform was somewhat of a challenge for me. The first holes appear in the PE fret but there is another one of the same size as yet untouched. This is not going to be a quick build but its starting off as a very enjoyable project Thanks for looking Alan