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1213brett

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  1. Like
    1213brett reacted to vaddoc in Garboard plank placement   
    In my boat, a straight strip near the keel is way off the shape of the hull, whereas near the sheer is almost right following the curve of the hull. Now probably the sheer is the most important line as it defines the shape of the boat. Also, it is non flexible in shape. So the sheer plank needs to have a certain shape no matter what the planking plan will be and at least the next few planks also will not be very flexible in shape either, as they follow the sheer and probably will be very straight with little spilling needed. Now, if the planks near the sheer are left last, maybe they will need to be squeezed into shapes that will be unpleasing to the eye so maybe this is why they need to be done first. The shape of the planks mid hull have much less of a visual impact.
    I have very little experience in planking though so may be completely wrong
  2. Like
    1213brett reacted to vaddoc in Garboard plank placement   
    I am a novice in planking but I have had the exact same problem, although I think I ve cracked it.
    The way I understand this is that placement of the garboard is a compromise of many things.
    1. If you place a straight strip right where the garboard should be, it will end up in the lower third of the stem
    2. There is much less space for the planks at the bow compared to the stern or mid hull so the garboard needs to end as low as possible at the stem to allow space for the rest of the planks.
    3. It is not possible for the gb to end mid keel, it needs to finish somewhere at the stem really 
    4. Spilling needs to be reasonable, planks should not have unreasonable curves
    5. When the gb is outlined on the frames, the curves should be fair and pleasing to the eye.
    6. The rest of planking will be outlined after the gb is defined
    7. If you are planking upside down, turn the hull right way up and have a look, makes a huge difference
    Ultimately, the gb is set by eyeballing things.
    Still, I might be completely wrong!
  3. Like
    1213brett got a reaction from Archi in MS Mayflower garbord plank   
    I'm building the Model Shipways Mayflower. And don't know what to do with the garboard plank and the few planks above it.  I have read the instructions and they are not clear to me. They just say to take a 3/16" x 1/16" board starting at bulkhead (C) and taper the forward end. Do I taper it form the first three inches of the board like the other boards?  Maybe you have built this ship or just know the answer. Any way I have also included the instructions in the link.
     
    http://www.historicships.com/TALLSHIPS/Model Shipways/Mayflower/MS2020-Mayflower-Instructions.pdf
  4. Like
    1213brett reacted to popeye2sea in sharp or bluff bowed?   
    Definitely bluff bowed.  I would go so far to say that every late 16th to early 17th century ship was bluff bowed.  That's just the way it was done then. 
  5. Like
    1213brett reacted to wefalck in sharp or bluff bowed?   
    We don't really know, but popeye2sea is most probably right.
     
    However, the question 'bluff bowed' or not is not so simple. You would need to ask 'bluff in the waterlines or in the cross-section'. You can have bluff waterlines and sharp cross-sections or vice versa.
  6. Like
    1213brett reacted to ccoyle in sharp or bluff bowed?   
    Bluff.
  7. Like
    1213brett got a reaction from thibaultron in Drilling holes for masts   
    is there a secret how to drill the holes for your masts at the wright angle? I heard you can cut a notch around the bottom of the masts and glue them in a small matching hole at a angle but then how do you hold the mast in place while the glue dries?  
  8. Like
    1213brett reacted to ca.shipwright in Drilling holes for masts   
    You can make a template from card stock from the side view plan to get the correct rake of the mast. Place this where the mast goes and align the drill bit parallel to the template.
  9. Like
    1213brett reacted to JerseyCity Frankie in Drilling holes for masts   
    No amount of care is too much care when you are drilling for the masts into a solid hull. I recommend the template mentioned above too but also drill with a much smaller diameter bit first and test your hole with a thinner spar to see if it's correct. You can make corrections if needed as you gradually work up to the diameter you need for the actual mast you will use. I find also that if you place the model so you can stand above it and work down on it helps a lot too.
  10. Like
    1213brett got a reaction from Canute in A question about wet bending   
    Thanks for all your help guys!!
  11. Like
    1213brett reacted to John Allen in A question about wet bending   
    I soak then use graduated cans heat with a candle do several planks at a time can bend or twist there completely dry and always holds there shape. Its very very fast.
  12. Like
    1213brett got a reaction from thibaultron in A question about wet bending   
    Thanks for all your help guys!!
  13. Like
    1213brett got a reaction from thibaultron in A question about wet bending   
    Can you pin a wet board to the out side of a ship and then run the wand over the out side of the wet board?  Or do you have to use the wand on the same side as the direction the board is bending in too?
  14. Like
    1213brett got a reaction from mtaylor in A question about wet bending   
    Thanks for all your help guys!!
  15. Like
    1213brett got a reaction from Eddie in A question about wet bending   
    Thanks for all your help guys!!
  16. Like
    1213brett reacted to mtaylor in A question about wet bending   
    Wand?   Like a curling iron?  I use an old curling iron (and properly grateful to the Admiral) and heat both sides.  Start with the inside, hold the bend, hit the outside and then repeat as needed until the bend is proper and stays in shape.  Others may use a different method but like many things... this is what works for me and "your mileage may vary".
  17. Like
    1213brett reacted to Eddie in A question about wet bending   
    Hey howya goin 1213brett mate, wand are a magician I like magic, I dont even wet my timber takes to long that way I use this see pic, just hold the timber on the soldering iron and slowly move it and it bends into shape if you bend it to far you just turn it over and heat the other side. Some people wet the timder pin it in place and leave it till it drys. and like mark here who uses curling iron to do hes hair and planks, I also use a hair dryer with a piece of wood clamp with spring clamps on the bench as for your question if you do the outside first you run the risk of it bending outward as one side dry faster then the other as for pining it frist idk haven't tryed it that way, just get a piece to practice with if you have a spare piece. 
     

     
     
  18. Like
    1213brett reacted to Ulises Victoria in A question about wet bending   
    Yes you can pin the wet board, holding it in shape with pins and then run the hot thing (whatever you use, hair curler, modified soldering iron, cloth iron, etc.) over it until the wood is dry. It most likely will retain some of the bend, but also will spring back some. At this point just use a good wood glue and glue it to where it belongs and pin it again just like before. Wait till the glue is dry and you shouldn't have any issues.
     
    Regards.
     
    Ulises
     
  19. Like
    1213brett got a reaction from Eddie in A question about wet bending   
    Can you pin a wet board to the out side of a ship and then run the wand over the out side of the wet board?  Or do you have to use the wand on the same side as the direction the board is bending in too?
  20. Like
    1213brett reacted to bluenose2 in Wheathering dark boards   
    Hello Les here. Sapelle is a wood similar to mahogany. If severely weathered it may turn a greyish colour if you used it on your deck or siding at home, the sun would bleach it out. Maybe not so much under sail. Captains were fairly fastidious about maintenance. If you want to make your ship look a little grubby, scuff up any painted surface that would be exposed to wear and tear. Unpainted wood surfaces would be scratched from anchors and loading of articles aboard and off board.  Any paint below the water line be susceptible to worms etc. So weathering could be sanding and pealing of paint. 
  21. Like
    1213brett got a reaction from mtaylor in Are 3 masted ships and 4 that different?   
    No your right. I'm just a little confused I thought that the pole on the front counted as a mast that's all
  22. Like
    1213brett reacted to MESSIS in Help with measuring   
    Sorry wrong advice so I deleted it
    Christos
  23. Like
    1213brett got a reaction from mtaylor in Help with measuring   
    What I'm trying to do is find the right spots to put things on the ship like gun ports an fenders thanks.  I have 1:1 plans
  24. Like
    1213brett got a reaction from mtaylor in Are 3 masted ships and 4 that different?   
    I'm building the san Juan galleon from Artesania Latina and it has square sails 
  25. Like
    1213brett got a reaction from mtaylor in Are 3 masted ships and 4 that different?   
    Hi I'm building a 4 mast ship and need resources on how to rig it.  The only resources I can find are on one two and three mast ships.  if you can rig a 3 mast ship is rigging a 4 pretty intuitive or is it like starting all over?  And if it is can you please give me a good resources on how to rig a 4 mast ship.  Thank you. 
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